Food Trucks In Winter

October 2011

By biteclub

The mobile food scene burst into Sonoma County like a gale force wind last winter. Though taco trucks had long been part of the landscape, February and March saw the roll out of a new generation of trucks serving everything from kobe burgers and dim sum to agedashi, lamb burgers and carne asada fries. With a fleet of trucks rolling into downtown Santa Rosa in January, there was no mistaking that this burgeoning culinary trend had finally come to Wine Country.

The Players
Fork Catering:Run by caterer Sarah Piccolo out of Sebastopol, embraces the local farm-to-table vibe, serving up Stornetta beef burgers on whole wheat buns; a quinoa garbanzo bean burger, green chili mac and cheese, and salads bursting with veggies plucked from local patchesStreet Eatz: More than a taco truck, less than a restaurant, the Street Eatz mobile kitchen is leading Sonoma County’s food truck brigade with globally-inspired dishes (agedashi, tacos, pulled pork, curry, chile rellenos and the unbeatable Carne Asada fries). Biz partners Jillian Dorman and Alma Mendez (of La Texanita) collaborated on the popular truck, which has been a mainstay at local events throughout the spring and summer.

La Texanita: Sister truck to Street Eatz, this Mexican truck features most of the items you’ll find at Alma’s much-loved restaurant (Guy Fieri is a huge fan): Tacos, burritos and flautas with homemade tortillas and tasty meats like tongue and cabeza.

Chicago Style Hot Dogs: Wieners are the original street food, so its no wonder that a growing contingency of mobile doggeries are on the roll. Jeff Tyler is the guy you’ve seen tucked away on Je Ju Way (near Russian River brewery) on weekdays and most recently doing a brisk late-nite biz in Courthouse Square.

Karma: Former brick and mortar Indian restaurant owner brings his naan and curries mobile.

Ultra Crepes: Gourmet French crepes.

Match Box Diner: Fresh made bbq sliders, burgers, tacos, dogs and fries.

Charlie Bruno’s Chuckwagon: Bruno’s on fourth owners take their barbecue on the road.

Sift Dessert Truck: Cupcakes. ‘Nuff said.

Foxy Cupcakes: More cupcakes.

Mobile Perks: The original mobile coffee cart in Sonoma County.

Stay tuned for:
Big Bad Burritos: Gourmet burritos.
Yum Yum Trolley: Menu still in development.

Facing almost immediate push back from concerned downtown brick and mortar restaurants, the welcome mat and continued permits for the weekly event were pulled. Undaunted, the trucks soldiered on through a busy summer, with recurring spots at farm markets, wineries, county parks, businesses and festivals. Jillian Dorman of Street-Eatz and La Texanita, brought her trucks to nearly 300 events between April and October, having near non-stop gigs throughout the Bay Area including San Francisco’s popular Off The Grid, The Handcar Regatta, farm markets at Kendall Jackson, and weekly lunch stops in Santa Rosa.

With the weather taking a decidedly drippier turn in coming weeks, the trucks are in transition mode. Al fresco dining doesn’t have quite the cache in winter months (or the venues), so most of the truck vendors say they’ll be looking toward more lunch routes, winery events and catering gigs to keep their griddles warm over the holidays. A few, like the Fabulous Frickle Brothers have gone into seasonal hibernation, promising to re-emerge in the spring. Several, including Street-Eatz, Charlie Bruno’s Chuckwagon and Dogs From Chicago will head back to established lunch routes that center around large industrial and business parks.

As the busy season winds down, Dorman said that she hopes to work on a number of projects including a holiday truck gatherings for businesses, a regular “Off The Grid” style gathering of several trucks once a month in Sonoma County and finding possible pop-up spots at unused warehouses throughout the county. As the unofficial “truck mother” of the North Bay, Jillian has also helped to foster many upcoming trucks, guiding them through permitting, city politics and the ins-and-outs of mobile kitchens. She said two trucks are currently in development in Sonoma County: Big Bad Burritos and the Yum Yum Trolley. Others, like Lynn Bruno of Bruno’s Chuckwagon are looking forward to some needed downtime between holiday winery events and wedding bookings.

Here are a few last-of-the-season events to check out as well as ongoing stops to get your food truck fix.

Park-n-Eat: Spring Lake Park hosts its final food trucks in the park event for the season on Tuesday, Oct. 25 from 4:30pm to dusk. 10% of proceeds go to supporting the park. Spring Lake Boat Ramp, Santa Rosa. Usual suspects include Street-Eatz, La Texanita, Bruno’s Chuckwagon, Dogs from Chicago, Ultra Crepes.

Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery, Truck or Treat: The Sonoma winery hosts a truck stuff from 5:30 until dark with live music and dining on October 28. Lineup: Karma Bistro, Fork Catering, Street Eatz, Charlie Bruno’s Chuckwagon, Dogs from Chicago. Owners say this may be the last event at the winery due to new restriction policies being enforced by the city. (389 4th Street East. Sonoma)

Iron Horse Winery: Though it doesn’t participate in the popular Wine Road Food and Wine Affair happening this weekend, Iron Horse has invited Charlie Bruno’s Chuckwagon to their tasting room throughout the weekend. (9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol)

All Year
Wine Down, Eat Up Thursdays: Santa Rosa Vintners’ Square, home to a collection of boutique wineries near downtown Santa Rosa, hosts its Wine Down, Eat Up each Thursday from 5-9pm featuring live music, wine and four food trucks. Owner Ray D’Argenzio said he’ll continue to host the event through the winter with a revolving lineup that has included Street Eatz, Ultra Crepes, MatchBox Diner and Charlie Bruno’s Chuckwagon. 1301 Cleveland Ave, Santa Rosa.

O’Reilly’s Totally Truckin’ Thursdays: Four trucks roll into Sebastopol’s O’Reilly Media from 11:30 to 3pm each Thursday throughout the year. Ten percent of lunch proceeds go to supporting a non-profit of the week. Usual suspects include Street-Eatz, Fork Catering, Foxy Cupcakes, La Texanita, Dogs from Chicago, MatchBox, Ultra Crepes, Karma Bistro.

“Usual” Lunch Spots: Though the best bet is to watch your favorite trucks’ Facebook or Twitter feed, some popular lunch spots have included the Santa Rose Industrial Park, Santa Rosa VA (3841 Brickway Boulevard, Santa Rosa), and parks near Medtronic and Kaiser in Santa Rosa.

Mamma Pigs Closed?

October 2011

By biteclub

Barbecue spot Mamma Pig’s has shuttered, at least temporarily. According to owner Gary Finnan: ” We have closed to restructure, reposition, what ever needs to be done.”

It’s not a huge surprise after the ongoing challenges the restaurant faced after opening. Culinary partners Matthew and Bryan Bousquet (formerly of Mirepoix and Bistro M) departed just days after opening, then closed their other Windsor restaurant Bistro M without warning. The couple did not return phone calls, but have said in public statements that the bad economy and several personal challenges contributed to their decision to leave the Windsor restaurant scene.

Since August, Finnan has struggled to keep the restaurant afloat, but the final blow came last week when, according to Finnan, Mamma Pig’s lost their barbecue and pastry chef, James Richmond. “He was the guy behind the food,” according to Finnan. “Without him we couldn’t move forward,” he added. Richmond reportedly will join Matthew Bousquet at Bistro Jeanty in Yountville.

“Until we can get back on an even keel, we will be closed until we can put the right kind of quality back in there,” Finnan added. “We came out of the gate fast but the going was heavy underfoot and out handicap excessive, so the race was lost,” Finnan said in an email to BiteClub. “We appreciate the support and hope to rise anew,” he said.

Pinot on the River: Win Tix

October 2011

By biteclub

CONTEST CLOSED: CONGRATS TO MEG!

Want to win tickets?

Quotable Pinot is the name of the game. Find a great historic quote, then insert “pinot noir” somewhere and add it to the comments below.

A bad example: “To pinot noir or not to pinot noir: That is the question.” – Hamlet on wine drinking.
The more original, the better.

One winner will receive two tickets to Pinot on the River, Oct. 23 in Healdsburg.

Enter a comment below. Winners will be notified on Friday, Oct. 22, 2011. USE AN EMAIL YOU CHECK FREQUENTLY when posting. Otherwise, you may miss out. Full rules here.

“…this is the chosen spot of all this earth as far as PINOT NOIR is concerned.” – Luther Burbank, via BiteClub.

More accessible than ever, Pinot on the River (Oct. 23, 2011) is a grape-stained afternoon of artisan, small production wine tasting from 100 top-notch West Coast winemakers. These aren’t Styrofoam cup sippers, but seriously collectible and eminently quaffable wines like Alysian, Landmark, Donatiello, Papapietro-Perry, Deloach, MacPhail, Littorai, Patz & Hall, Roadhouse and on and on. Now in its 8th year, the event has been scaled back to a walkable tasting in the Healdsburg Square, between noon and 4pm, leaving plenty of time for enjoying lunch downtown. (Early entry at 11am is $85, regular tickets $75)

They’ve recently added a number of Santa Cruz Mountain wineries including Windy Oaks, Thomas Fogarty, Burrell School, Mount Eden and Muns Vineyard, showcasing this impressive, but still often overlooked pinot-growing region.

Check out more details at pinotfestival.com.

Red Rose Shutters

October 2011

By biteclub

Plenty of chatter on the “for lease” sign in the window of the Red Rose Cafe in Santa Rosa. The restaurant suffered extensive damage in July when a fire ripped through the interior. A call to the restaurant’s listed number results in a “Call cannot be completed as dialed” message.

Though the restaurant had its ups and downs, a loyal fan base for the restaurant’s commitment to authentic southern cooking will be missed.

Stay tuned, however, for updates on several newcomers to the BBQ game, including the forthcoming Sweet T’s, slated to open by November.

Chosen Spot Dinner Pix

October 2011

By biteclub

The second in a series of three “Chosen Spot” pop-up dinners was held Oct. 15, 2011 at Bloomfield Farms in Petaluma. (Read the original story on this celebration of Luther Burbank).

Using fruits and vegetables developed by local horticulturist Luther Burbank in historically significant spaces around the county, the dinners are six-course meals served up with a side of history. On Saturday’s menu: Roast Beet Borscht Bites; Carmody Cheese with Sorbus Fruit Chutney (a fruit related to the rose); Valley Ford Estero Gold Brodo (a potato broth); Fresh Spianch and spicy arugula salad; Victorian Farms Beef Short Ribs; Bloomfield Farms Banana and Red Kuri squash with Pork Skewers, Vanilla Poached Shortcake (made by Worth Our Weight).

Chefs and team for the first event are- John Lyle, Les Goodman, Aaron Short and Holly Messing, assistant Jiacomo Cope, and Project Coordinator Kate Foley, with the help of volunteer SRJC Culinary Students..

The Final Chosen Spot Dinner for 2011 will be held Saturday, November 12th at The Victorian Farmstead in Sebastopol. Both previous events have SOLD OUT. Tickets are $55 and all proceeds are going to be divided between three local organizations: The Tree Restoration Project, The School Education Program at Gold Ridge, The Luther Burbank School Orchard Project. Details here.

Artisano 2011

October 2011

By biteclub

Third annual Artisano 2011 features new two-day format focused on locally created wines, foods and art presented by boutique winemakers, chefs, food purveyors and artists. Friday night winemaker dinner at John Ash & Co kicks off program, with major tasting and art showing/auction on Saturday afternoon. Chef Tom Schmidt of John Ash will host family-friendly harvest dinner that evening, pairing the events fine wines. Extensive details and ticket purchases are found at artisano.org.

Tickets: $65 to $150
Friday, Nov 18 6:30p to 10:00p
Vintners Inn Event Center: Vintners’ Inn Event Center – John Ash & CO.,

Cheese loves beer

October 2011

By biteclub

Cheese and beer combine in a passionate, mouth-watering affair with two entertaining and educational talks by UC Davis cheese and beer experts, followed by a tantalizing tasting of cheeses and brews.

Moshe Rosenberg, a specialist in dairy science and professor of food science, will be leading the discussion on “Cheese: The Place where Land, Society, and Science Meet”. Charlie Bamforth, a professor of malting and brewing sciences, will present “From Sumeria to Sonoma: The World’s Favorite Drink, Beer”.

Following the talks will be a tasting of nine cheese and beer pairings, featuring cheeses and beers made in Sonoma and Marin Counties.

The seminar and tastings will be held at the Rohnert Park 4H Center, located behind Grocery Outlet on Commerce Blvd on October 29th from 2-6:30pm.. Cost to attend is $40. Learn more about the event and register at ucanr.org/cheeselovesbeer, or by calling Lisa Bell at (707) 565-2050.

10 Best Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup Spots

October 2011

By biteclub

No, you’re not the only one craving grilled cheese and tomato soup as the rainy doldrums of winter approach. A national comfort food, it’s how generations of moms soothed away bad days and sore throats and coaxed us into taking early baths before the babysitter’s arrival.

And though we may be older now, preferring local sheeps milk cheese and caramelized onions to the lowly American cheese inside our artisan sourdough bread; heirloom tomato bisque instead of the humble can of Campbell’s, the mystique remains the same.

Wrap yourself in the warmth of a childhood favorite, no explanations needed. Dip and dunk shamelessly. Just don’t forget to check for cheese strings on your chin.

Here are a handful of local spots to indulge in this warm and fuzzy favorite.

Hopmonk Tavern: When it comes to tasty, soul-satisfying pub grub, Hopmonk has honed it’s kitchen skills to a fine art. Though there are plenty of other beer-friendly dishes on the menu, their version of a toasty grilled cheddar and Gruyere on sourdough (with or without ham) gets a healthy dusting of parmesan before crisping on the griddle. A cup of thick tomato soup comes on the side for dipping, $11.50. Plus there’s some darn good beer to go with it. 230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol, 829-7300.

Zazu Restaurant: A menu standard at this Santa Rosa roadhouse, there’s always a cup of spicy tomato soup with Bellwether Farm’s zingy Carmody grilled between two toasty slices, $10. 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 523-4814.

Kin: Artisan Grilled cheese includes Swiss, smoked Gouda and Fontina cheese melted with applewood smoked bacon, fresh tomato slices and Dijon dressed on a toasted ciabatta, $7.50. There’s not tomato soup this time of year, but ask for a side of the Windsor restaurant’s homemade ketchup. With a spicy kick of horseradish and sweet tomatoes, it blows the doors of Heinz 57. 740 McClelland Dr., Windsor, 837-7546.

Jimtown Store: This month’s Grilled Cheese Sandwich of the month is Provolone and Pecorino cheese with roasted eggplant caponata, fresh basil and smoked pork on sourdough, $10.95. Since there’s no tomato soup right now, why not grab a peanut butter, bacon and spicy pepper jam sammie instead. 6706 Hwy 128, Healdsburg, 433-1252.

Checkers Bistro: Okay, so there’s no grilled cheese, but the tomato basil soup is a downtown lunchtime standard. It’s thick and a bit chunky with veggie tidbits and always bubbling away in the kitchen ($5.25). Pair with a twist on grilled cheese: The caramelized onion, roasted garlic and Cambazola foccaccia (which actually looks a lot more like a pizza) that will keep vampires and annoying co-workers away for days ($7). 523 4th St., Santa Rosa, 578-4000.

the girl and the fig: Tomato confit is the foil to this understated grilled cheese with a side of fries, $11. Step up your game to a Croques Monsieur with Niman Ranch ham and St. George Cheese, $13. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, 938-3634. Just around the corner, the Depot Hotel (241 First St. West, Sonoma, 938-2980) has a homemade tomato soup that locals swear by ($5). In a hurry? Also in the neighborhood is El Dorado Kitchen’s Corner Cafe, a casual hotel cafe with several beers on tap and their tummy-warming grilled ham and melted Brie on sourdough bread ($11). 405 First St. West, Sonoma, 996-3030

Downscale: Craving a good old-fashioned white bread and processed cheese version? In-N-Out does a solid grilled cheese. Add grilled onions to class it up. Dip in ketchup.

Sadly lamenting: Two of the best grilled cheese and soup sandwich spots have gone to comfort food heaven. Chef John Ash’s “Hot Cheese” stand at the Windsor Market was an idea before it’s season — serving up crispy, fresh luxe grilled sandwiches and the world’s best tomato soup. Unfortunately, the biz is on permanent hiatus. Another fave were John Lyle’s grilled cheeses at XXV in downtown Santa Rosa. Lyle has moved onto his Chosen Spot dinners, leaving us craving one more Umami Grilled Cheese.

DIY: Safeway’s Tuscan Tomato Bisque is one of the best creamy tomato soups on the market. Add a dash of orange juice, and you’ve got a spicy, sweet dish of heaven on your hands. When it comes to grilled cheese, simple is best in our book — white bread, American cheese and lots of butter in a hot pan. Want to get a little creative? Check out Bay Area cheese expert Laura Werlin’s “Grilled Cheese Please: 50 Scrumptiously Cheesy Recipes ($16.99, Andrews McMeel Publishing).

Hole in the Wall, Sebastopol

October 2011

By biteclub

Short Rib Hash Hole in the Wall Restaurant

The restaurant changed ownership in 2018 and is no longer owned by Adam Beers. The menu has remained much the same since his departure.

Hole in the Wall Restaurant isn’t the kind of place you stumble upon. Snugged into the quiet corner of a small Sebastopol retail mall, you could grab dozens of lattes at the nearby Starbucks and never notice it. Which would be a shame, because the pumpkin scone you’re cramming into your face can’t hold a candle to Chef Adam Beers’ shortrib hash just steps away. Or biscuits and mushroom gravy. Or spiced apple crepes.

With word of mouth praise held close to the vest by locals and foodies who’ve passed along the discovery of Beer’s tiny Gravenstein Ave. restaurant, Hole in the Wall has been under-the-radar for since opening in June, 2011. Grab a table, however, and a regular will start singing the praises of whatever they’re eating, and possibly even offer up a bite. It’s that kind of place.

Quiet and efficient, Beers steadfastly mans the restaurant’s open kitchen through breakfast, lunch and dinner (they’re only open for breakfast and lunch on Monday and Tuesday), putting a deliberate touch on each dish. That, of course, can mean cooling your heels for a while, but invariably it’s worth the a little patience.

A longtime line cook who moved his way up from stirring gumbo roux to sautee chef at the French Garden and most recently as a chef at The Village Bakery, Beers has kept his menu at Hole in the Wall simple and comforting. Breakfast is a strong suit, with lox-studded omelets ($8.50), buttermilk pancakes ($7.75), homemade biscuits and gravy ($5.50) Challah French Toast with candied pecans and fresh fruit ($7.75) and an authentic German Dutch Baby—a baked pancake with caramelized sugar and apples ($7.75).

Lunch and dinner share a menu, with Beer’s signature gumbo (a traditional Cajun version with Andouille sausage and plenty of smokey flavor, $8.50); excellent burgers, sweet and savory crepes (buckwheat with chicken, spinach, caramelized onions and Swiss, $8.95). Coconut Curry Cream Pasta with penne, cranberries, snow peas,tomatoes and almonds tastes better than it sounds, with sweet, earthy, exotic and savory flavors. It’s not haute, but it’s comforting. Don’t miss the baked Mac and Cheese, whose bowl runneth over with five kinds of cheese: Cheddar, Swiss, fontina, blue and a dusting of crispy Parmesan. Add truffle oil if you dare. A bowl of fries with fresh minced garlic and Parmesan are a solid addition to pretty much anything.

Beers shows his chops with dessert crepes ($6.50) recently featuring Gravenstein apples cooked with brown sugar, butter, homemade caramel and caramel whipped cream.

”It’s village food,” said Beers, explaining his cuisine. “It’s all about living and eating in a small town, where people get to know each other by name.”

Hole in the Wall Restaurant, 972 Gravenstein Hwy. S, Suite 100, Sebastopol, 861-3777. Open 7 days a week from 7 am to 2:30 pm on Mondays and Tuesdays and 7 am to 9 pm Wednesdays through Sundays,

Petite Syrah names new chef

October 2011

By biteclub

Former Mirepoix Chef Ben Davies has been named Chef de Cuisine at Petite Syrah after the recent departure of Jamil Peden. Davies is a local hot shot toque who’s resume includes not only the 1-star Michelin Mirepoix but the three-starred Meadowood and one-starred Murray Circle.

So the big question is does Exec Chef and owner Josh Silvers see stars in his future? “Of course we would love to get one, but our emphasis is on having a great restaurant that is always going to be approachable. We want this to be a restaurant that people can keep coming to a few times a week for a glass of wine and a nibble or a five-course meal,” said Silvers who is understandably wary of the “Michelin Curse” as well as its potential blessings.

Meanwhile, he and Davies are more interested in perfecting the custardy 63-degree egg, one of several new dishes on the menu.

Petite Syrah, 205 5th St. Santa Rosa, 568-4002