It’s been a bittersweet year for Nancy Prebilich and the Gleason Ranch family. Beloved by discerning local chefs for her pasture-raised chickens, lamb and pork, the West County rancher was featured in both Food & Wine magazine (where her lamb made the cover) and on “Meat in America” on The History Channel this spring.
But behind the scenes, Prebilich has struggled to keep her family business alive after the recent death of her parents, losing her space at the Santa Rosa Farmer’s Market, the weather-related devastation of her chicken flock and the closure of Fulton Valley Farms, a custom meat processing plant that catered to small-scale ranchers in the North Bay. She now has to drive more than three hours to the nearest USDA plant.
“My sister and I are just strung out. We’re having to make up for lost hands combined with a serious financial impact. We just haven’t been able to get our chicken production back up,” she said. Though they do still have enough chickens to fulfill their CSA orders, their signature slow-growing heritage breed chickens are still in short supply and the ranch has been unable to wholesale to grocery stores and restaurants. “We’re plugging along and trying to get it back in the cases and on restaurant plates,” she said.
Despite the shortage, the local food community has rallied behind Prebilich. This spring, Stark Restaurants made a significant pre-payment to the ranch, committing to using the Gleason’s goats for their Monday night goat roasts at Monti’s Rotisserie as well as suckling pigs, rabbit, lamb and pork for catering events. “They’ve really helped me get through some tough times,” said Prebilich.
Most recently, Oliver’s Markets has made a financial commitment to the ranch by purchasing Gleason pork for their house-brand sausage. Hot Italian and Sweet Italian sausage is selling for $8.99/pound, a price that helps her continue to keep the ranch afloat and raise her Duroc pigs.
Though she still has a long road ahead, Prebilich is determined to continue her family’s nearly 100-year legacy in Sonoma County. “I tell people if you want my chicken tomorrow, please buy my pork today.”
Similar in concept to the popular Cochon 555, which features chefs competing for the best pig-based dish, Lamb Jam taps local chefs to show off their best lamb dish.
Competing this year were chefs from throughout the Bay area, including Jeff Mall of Zin in Healdsburg and Josh Silvers of Petite Syrah and Jackson’s; Jefferey Lunak of Morimoto Napa as well as chefs from SF’s Tacolicious, Fifth Floor and Wente Vineyards in Livermore.
Mali’s award-winning recipe was a Braised Lamb Shank with lemon-stewed cannelini beans, and a lavender-mint gremolata. He will compete in New York City in September with chefs from throughout the country.
Braised Lamb Shank, Lemon Stewed Cannellini Beans, Lavender-Mint Gremolata
Chef Adam Mali, Nick’s CoveIngredients
4 Shanks
1 Yellow Onion
2 Carrots
3 Ribs Celery
10 Cloves Garlic
1 Quart Zinfandel or Syrah
2 Quarts Veal Stock or Beef Broth
1/2 Cup Sherry Vinegar
1/2 Cup Balsamic Vinegar
1 Bunch Thyme
1 Sprig Rosemary
2-3 Bay Leaves
1 Bunch Mint
1 or 2 Sprigs Lavender
1 Cup Honey
Salt to TasteIn a dutch oven, brown the lamb shanks evenly. Remove the lamb, and discard most of the fat, and add a drizzle of olive oil; caramelize the carrots, onion, celery, then add the garlic. Add the wine, and reduce by 1/3, then add the stock. Put the lamb shanks back into the dutch oven, bring liquid to a simmer, cover and cook in a 350 degree oven for about 4 hours. The lamb should almost fall off the bone, but still hold its’ shape. Add salt little by little to the lamb and stock, and mix until the salt is to taste. Let sit, and remove the fat which will rise to the top. Cool, take the lamb shanks out of the liquid, and reduce the liquid by half. Reheat the lamb shanks in the stock.
For the Beans:
2 Quarts Cannellini Beans
1 Sprig Rosemary, minced
1 Small Bunch Thyme, minced
Juice and Zest of One Lemon
2-3 Cloves of Garlic, Finely Minced
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 Bay Leaves
Kosher Salt to Taste
Soak the beans in water the night before you are ready to cook them.To cook: Add the beans and the water they soaked in to a pot. Bring to a simmer, and test the beans every 20 minutes or so. When the beans are soft, but are not falling apart, they are ready. Take off heat. Add salt to taste (little by little to bring up the salt level, but don’t over salt), microplane or grate lemon zest into beans, then squeeze lemon juice. Sauté garlic, but do not brown. Add a little white wine to stop browning, and reduce a little bit. Add whole mixture to beans and stir. Add herbs last. Let sit for an hour. To reheat, add beans and liquid to a pan, with a little really good olive oil, and a little butter on a medium heat. Cook until liquid thickens.
For the Gremolata:
1 Bunch Parsley, finely minced, put on a kitchen towel and slightly dried
1 Bunch Mint, finely minced
1 Bunch Lavender, finely minced
Zest of Two Lemons – zested, put into boiling water for 30 seconds, dried on a towel, and minced
3 Cloves of Garlic, put into boiling water for 30 seconds, dried, and finely minced
When the above ingredients are allowed to dry for about 30 minutes, mix together. Sprinkle on lamb shank, which is sitting on the cannellini beans.
Excuse Sebastapolians if they aren’t all that impressed with the latest farm-to-table philosophies and precious produce gracing the tables of local restaurants. Located at the crossroads of some of the richest Sonoma County farmland, a stone’s throw from acres of fruit orchards and minutes away from the riches of the coast, Sebastopol has come to expect the first pick of the local bounty at their tables.
As a trickle of greens and fruits turns into a torrent of perfectly ripened produce, it’s worth taking a look at the bustle of new restaurants and locally-focused menus from the apple capital.
Zero Kilometro at Peter Lowell’s
Locals have been flocking to this weekly three-course dinner made with ingredients sourced from within a few miles of the restaurant. Consider this the ultimate in “eating locally”. Many of the ingredients come from the restaurant’s own farm (Belly Acres), from trusted neighbors who drop choice fruits and veggies from their own farms and meat from nearby ranches. It’s easy to forget — assuming you ever knew — what food straight from the garden can taste like, especially as the bounty of summer kicks into full swing. It’s transcendent. Expect to find dishes like a polenta cake made with corn from the Summerfield Waldorf school, Beekind Honey and Sebastopol Berries; Laguna Farms lettuces; Stuffed Squash with Mycopia Mushrooms, Rainbow’s End goat milk panna cotta or local Bodega Bay Wild King Salmon. But don’t get your heart set on any one dish, because chef Daniel Kedan often shoots from the hip based on what comes into his kitchen that day. What makes these dinners even better are wine pairings from nearby wineries including Radio-Coteau, Wine gap, Porter Creek, and Dehlinger. $35 for dinner, add $25 for wine pairing with each course. Wednesday nights only. 7385 Healdsburg Avenue, Sebastopol, 707-829-1077.
Hole in the Wall
After stints at the French Garden and Village Bakery, Chef Adam Beers recently opened his own cafe near the Firecrest Market. Early reports rave over crepes, shortrib hash and biscuits and gravy. 972 Gravenstein Hwy S, Sebastopol.
Gypsy Cafe: Taking over the Pine Cone Cafe location in downtown Sebastopol, Chef John LIttlewood is promising “comfort food with a twist.” The former Westerbeke Ranch chef is promising dishes like a candied bacon BLT, jalapeno cornbread, fried chicken and burgers, along with “the best coffee in town”. Already the food sounds better than the odd fusion of Indian, tempeh and turkey dishes that never quite gelled in the spot before. Westerbeke is teaming with local restaurant designer Shawn Hall, so expect a revamp on the interior before a late summer opening. 162 North Main Street, Sebastopol, 823-3102.
P/30 takeover: After about six months of darkness the former P30 roadhouse cafe on Bodega Highway seems to be sparking to life again. Cafe Claudio — rumored to be an Italian-style trattoria — is slated to open in the coming months.
The Barlow: Boasting a roster of top-notch restaurants before ground has even been broken, the forthcoming Barlow center is set to be a local foodie’s paradise. If you’ve missed out on the saga, the former Barlow Apple Factory is set to be transformed in the coming year to a mixed-use space that will include both retail and food-processing venues, wine and beer production, as well as a new home for the Sebastopol farmer’s market. Signed on currently: Kosta Browne Winery, Village Bakery, Taylor Maid Farms coffee, Guayki Yerba Mate, Wind Gap Wines, Acre Coffee, Mama Tina’s Ravioli, Woodfour Brewing and bistro; Via Giusti olive oil, Bliss gluten-free bakery, Rosso Pizzeria and Whole Spice.
Pasta Bella: We’re Still Here
News that natural foods business Amy’s Kitchen was taking over this Holli Jordan’s Gravenstein Highway restaurant may have been a bit premature. According to Jordan, it’s true that Amy’s made a great offer for the space. However, the deal fell through after the city declined Amy’s request to use the drive-through portion of the building for a”healthy fast food” restaurant. “The powers that be have spoken and we are staying put,” said Jordan. The restaurant has long been a popular gathering spot for salads, pasta and lunchtime sandwiches. “We had a very emotional response when people thought we were closing, but we want people to know we’re continuing on,” said Jordan. 796 Gravenstein Ave., Sebastopol, 824-8191.
Brined chicken at Peter Lowell’s
Smokehouse catering: Smoked tofu?
If Larry Vito isn’t the most dedicated pit-master in Sonoma County, I’d be hard-pressed to tell you who is. The classically-trained chef has turned all of his attentions toward the art of the ‘cue, using real hardwood, specialty smokers and creating his own authentic sauces from barbecue regions around the country. “And then it happened. On a paper plate. In a strip mall, somewhere in East Texas. I knew I’d found my calling,” Vito says on his website. What makes Vito unique, however, is his ever-expanding menu. In addition to Carolina pulled pork sliders, Memphis BBQ, barbecued tri-tip, Texas Beef Brisket, southern barbecued chicken, collard greens and cowboy beans, Vito now offers smoked tofu and a barbecued portobello mushroom for the less carnivorous among us. Don’t miss his brandied bread pudding and monthly Smokin’ Saturday where Vito roastings everything from a whole hog to goat. 6811 Laguna Parkway, Sebastopol, 575-3277.
Totally Truckin’ Thursdays at O’Reilly
Every Thursday from 11:30am to 2pm, a rotating convoy of food trucks pulls up to the O’Reilly parking lot at 1005 Gravenstein Hwy North (O’Reilly headquarters). Headed up by Fork’s Sarah Piccolo, the lineup may include Street eat, Karma Bistro, Dogs from Chicago, Ultra Crepes and a host of others. You never know what you’ll find, which is part of the fun — along with rubbing elbows with the brain trust at O’Reilly.
Still Hungry? There are plenty more terrific eats throughout Sebastopol. Here are a few of my favorites… French Garden: The restaurant has finally hit its stride with the addition of Chef Patrick Quillec. Classical French dishes incorporate incredible produce from the restaurant’s own garden, and bistro lunches are on the sunny patio are one of the county’s most under-rated gems. 8050 Bodega Ave, Sebastopol, 824-2030.
Sushi Tosaki: Sebastopol hosts a number of sushi spots, but for my money, Tosaki is one of the best not only in West County, but in all of Sonoma County. 799 Gravenstein Hwy S, Sebastopol, 829-0892.
El Colonel: Solid Mexican eats with a trained chef in the kitchen. 1015 Gravenstein Ave., Sebastopol, 829-7010.
K&L Bistro: This longtime French bistro has had staying power for a reason. Classic bistro fare, great burgers and a welcoming staff. 119 South Main St., Sebastopol, 823-6614.
Pizza Vino 707: Classic woodfired pizzas and a full bar in downtown make this a popular watering hole that’s welcoming to families as well. 6948 Sebastopol Ave., 829-9500.
Woodruff’s Artisan Fine Foods & Cafe: Breakfast, lunch and brunch from a trio of chefs make this quiet little market cafe well-deserving of a stop. Part take-out, part restaurant, the french toast souffle, steak au poivre and daily specials are a impressive. 966 Gravenstein Hwy S., Sebastopol, (707) 829-2141
Say goodbye: If you’re looking for Thai Issan, the space has recently be razed.
They came from all walks of life. A firefighter, a teacher, a salesman, a home organizer and financial manager sharing a single common bond.
An obsession with fair food.
This intrepid eating force, carefully chosen for their single-minded obsession with all things fried, sugary or barbecued-on-a-stick stormed the Sonoma County Fair Tuesday with the mission of consuming $200 worth of corn dogs, funnel cakes, sliders, ribs, ice cream, kabobs and fried artichokes in a whirlwind of caloric mayhem, crowing the county’s Ultimate Fair Food for 2011. Not a task to be taken lightly.
THE TEAM
Mike Stewart, 36, of Sebastopol is a Ukiah Firefighter and Pork blogger with a penchant for all things carnivorous.
Caroline Edillor, 47, of Santa Rosa works as a Financial Care Manager in Santa Rosa. With her husband Dan, the pair was unstoppable in the quest for unique flavors.
Melinda Anderson, 58, of Windsor is a teen mentor and organizer who’s mother inspired her passion for fair food by making corn dogs at home.
Danielle Lovejoy, 30 or Sonoma and her friend Lara Miraglia, 30, are teachers who schooled the group with their commitment to fair food, diving in for seconds long after the rest of the group gave up. Lovejoy countered that a six mile run that morning probably offset the damage.
Jarrod Logan, 32, of Santa Rosa sells flooring and said simply of his reason for joining the scramble, “I like to eat.”
Admittedly, all this heart-stopping tummy-plumping goodness is an indulgence most of us only allow ourselves once, maybe twice a year. Stirring within us a mix of childhood memories and a nutritional amnesia, eating fair food is a summertime tradition that’s hard for most of us to pass up.
“It’s sort of a don’t ask, don’t tell policy when it comes to calories,” said Melinda Anderson, one of the participants selected for the annual “Fair Food Scramble” as she wiped the barbecue from her chin.
So, from polenta and frozen cheesecake to pazole and ribs, a group of five lucky winners chosen from dozens of hopefuls sampled as many edibles as possible within the allotted two hours and $200 budget. Assessing more than 25 dishes piled high on a shaded picnic table, the eating got serious, as the five “Fair Food Scramblers” pulled out forks, knives and trusty pens to rate their favorite dishes of the 2011 Sonoma County Fair.
Call it gastro-mayhem. Call it a taste of childhood. Just don’t forget to bring the napkins and allow yourself this one feckless feast of the season.
The results:
Best Overall:The Elvis Funnel Cake ($6, Pennsylvania Dutch Funnel Cake) . Though the guys in the group leaned more toward ribs, the ladies overwhelmingly gave their vote to this caloric monstrosity — a funnel cake topped with peanut butter, banana sauce, chocolate and whipped cream. Ridiculously, insanely yummy.
Best Meat: Despite piles of beef and pork from a variety of vendors, a clear winner emerged almost immediately. Big Bubba’s Bad Barbecue’s sweet, smokey ribs ($12) knocked out last year’s winner, Johnny Garlic’s pork sliders handily.
Best Fried: Combo plate from Jeanne’s Artichokes ($8) with artichoke hearts, mushrooms, zucchini and eggplant got jealous stares and inquiries of “Where did you get THAT?” before we even hit the table. Pair with plenty of ranch dip. Also note that this was the only vegetable that got eaten at the Scramble.
Best Sweet: Chocolate-covered Cheesecake on a Stick ($5.25, Mrs. J’s Chocolate Pot) won the day, though several of us were quite fond of the refreshingly sweet-tart Mustache Mike’s Italian Ice ($5.50) making it a runner-up.
Best Healthy: It makes the list every year for a good reason. Old Mexico’s pazole ($7.50) is a classic fair favorite with veggies, hominy, rich broth and fried tortillas for dipping.
Best Group Eat: It was a unanimous decision to award the Pasta King a giant thumbs-up for polenta smothered in marinara and cheese ($8). Enough for a crowd, it’s a dish easily shared by several, rich, filling and surprisingly popular with kids (as long as you don’t tell them what it is).
Worst Dish You Absolutely Have to Try: A category in its own, you’ll understand once you try the PBJ Dog with Fried Onions (EuroDog, $7.50). It’s exactly what it sounds like: A hot dog with peanut butter and jelly slathered on the bun, topped with fried onions. A couple Scramblers loved it. Most of us would rather chew our arms off rather than eat another one. “Anything is good in peanut butter. Except that hot dog,” said Lovejoy. You’ve been warned.
Best Classic: Though it rarely gets the love it deserves, Stuffie’s Kielbasa Sausage Sandwich ($9.75) loaded with onions and peppers is always a crowd pleaser.
Best Advice After Eating Fair Food: A pearl of wisdom offered by veteran Scrambler Amy Leyack, “The Graviton and fair food really don’t mix.”
As the group licked fingers, did a final survey of the food carnage and rubbed their sore bellies, Stewart had just one last thing to say: “Are we ready for Round Two?”
The Hotel La Rose restaurant space vacated by Josef’s in 2010 is slated to reopen as Ironstone. Though details are still in the works, BiteClub spoke to co-owners Tom and John McNulty several months ago as they finalized lease. The duo have been hard at work since then, and in recent days a sign has gone up in the window announcing the restaurant.
When I spoke to Tom McMulty in June, he said they were planning a casual restaurant featuring Califronia Cuisine after a quick revamp on the existing space. “We want to keep it casual, keep the price in line with the economy,” he said. The restaurant will serve beer and wine, but does not currently have a full liquor license.
Late August is the anticipated opening date for Mateo Granados’ Cocina Latina, a sit-down version of the authentic Yucatecan dishes Grandos has been serving up at Northbay farm markets and his popular pop-up Tendejon Calle dinners for years.
Mixing his high-end experience (as former exec chef at Dry Creek Kitchen) and rural roots, the Cocina is slated to be a fusion of humble street food, family recipes and California cuisine — something Mateo calls Modern Yucatan Cuisine. Hailing from the Yucatan peninsula, his dishes combine influences from Spain and the ancient Mayans to compliment the produce and meats of Sonoma County.
And though the names may sound familiar — tacos, tamales, empanads, comidas and chorizo — Granados painstakingly seeks out local farmers and purveyors he often works with at the farm markets to flavor his dishes.
With the bounty of late summer to fuel his opening menu, Granados plans to have squash blossom emapanads with Redwood Hill cheese, White Crane Farm greens and Soda Rock tomatoes; suckling roast pig from Black Sheep Farm wrapped in banana leaves; Tierra Farms’ beans and Preston Vineyards’ pork chorizo. On this menu, farmer name-dropping isn’t chef grandstanding as much as a shout-out to friends and neighbors.
“Whatever’s available around here is what we use,” said Granados.
Tortillas will be made in-house with ingredients like Mendocino sea salt and local olive oil mixed into the masa. Desserts are simple, season ice creams, fruits or cool-weather flan with sticky buns from the Downtown Bakery and Creamery. At each table will be bottles of Granados’ El Yuca sauces made from local chilies and peppers.
It’s enough to make you start drooling in anticipation.
Signed on to help barside is mixologist Scott Beattie of h2hotel. He’ll help formulate a variety of tequila-inspired libations. Wine will be on-tap only.
The new restaurant is located in a simple one-story building that sat empty for years, and was reportedly built to be a tasting room rather than a restaurant. It’s proximity just across the street from the bustling h2hotel, however, has made the spot prime off-square real estate.
Expect prices in line with the kinds of ingredients Mateo sources, meaning $15 to $19 for larger dishes. Lunch and dinner will be served daily, and he’s just announced plans for a weekend brunch (he’s currently perfecting blue corn pancakes with honey) and possible late-night tamales at the bar, which will stay open until midnight or so.
If you’re hoping to work for Mateo, know that he’s looking for a year commitment from his staff for this project and is testing out potential workers at his Tendejon dinners.
Cocina Latina, slated for late August opening, Healdsburg
A new restaurant is slated to open at the former Pine Cone Cafe in mid-August. The Gypsy Cafe will be a breakfast and lunch spot serving (according to the window posting), benedicts, french toast, free range burgers, fried chicken, pancakes, candied bacon BLT, jalapeno corn bread, sandwiches and the best coffee in town.
Word is that the owner is Chef John Littlewood, formerly the executive chef at the Westerbeke Ranch Retreat Center and author of “Celebrating the Seasons at Westerbeke Ranch”. Most recently, Littlewood was exec chef at Oliver’s Market in Cotati where co-workers said he had recently resigned to open a cafe in Sebastopol.
A new owner has taken over the former P/30 space in Sebastopol. According to public documents, Claudio Capetta will be opening Cafe Claudio in the roadhouse bistro that’s been home to some of Sonoma County’s most creative chefs — Mark Malicki of Cafe Saint Rose and Patrick Tafoya, who closed the restaurant in January 2011. Capetta has owned another Italian eatery in Bodega Bay.
You know the drill by now…it’s the Fair Food Scramble Contest in which BiteClub takes five lucky winners (consider yourself a sort of Charlie Bucket, Veruca Salt, etc.) to the Sonoma County Fair, scramble for all the delicious goodness that our midway can offer. Yes, we’re a little late this year, but all the better to plan.
THE EVENT TAKES PLACE TUESDAY, AUGUST 2 at 12:30 PM. So make sure you can get off work, taking care of kids, etc.
From Pasta King to turkey legs, corn dogs, barbecue and beyond, we’ll snatch up whatever goodies we can find, bring it all back to our special reserve tables and feast like the true epicures we really are. (See pix of last year’s scramble)
You should see the looks of wanton jealousy we attract.
So how do you get to participate? Flattery is always good, but to really win my heart, your best bet is to convince me that you’re the ideal candidate. How much do you love fair food? Tell me some special memories. Write a poem. Be creative. Extol your eating virtues, but most of all, be you. THIS YEAR, I’m especially interested in specialists for FRIED FOODS, BEVERAGES, MEAT and ETHNIC FOODS.
Leave your thoughts below, and five winners will be selected on MONDAY MORNING (8/1) . You’ll get the details on our funtabulous food fest, but make sure you can be available around 12:30 to about 2PM on Tuesday, AUGUST 2. (I’ll call your boss if you need me to. Cause dang it, this is really more important that whatever you’re doing at work.)
You also need to be fun and willing to share you food. Otherwise, we’ll make you sit alone. No whiners. No changies. No dramarama. Or again, we make you sit alone and make fun of you.
Make sure you leave a good email address when you post, cause I’ll be alerting folks around 10m on Monday, and i’ll need to hear from you by 3pm or we move on. Life moves fast, baby.
Yes, there’s something fishy happening all around us.
Peaking over the next few weeks, it’s salmon season. Though it runs from May through August, don’t be surprised to find everything from salmon soup and salmon cakes to perfectly grilled, seared and poached salmon popping up on menus and in grocery stores this summer. A culinary celebrity both for its rich flavor and health benefits, be forewarned that all salmon is not equal.
According toMonterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch, a highly regarded guide to sustainable seafood-eating, the most ocean-friendly salmon comes from Alaska, California, Oregon and Washington. It recommends avoiding salmon farmed in open net pens often called “Atlantic Salmon” in stores.
After several years of canceled seasons in California due to overfishing and ecological concerns, 2011 looks to be a banner year with record numbers of salmon returning to the rivers. When it comes to long-term sustainability, however, Chef John Ash says that “Alaska is the poster child for managing fish in the world.” Having just returned from an Alaskan adventure of teaching and fishing at Talon lodge, he’s seen up close the kind of careful monitoring of the salmon runs. “It’s written into their state constitution to provision sustainability,” said Ash.
DIY Salmon
Fish in your fridge is a ticking time bomb, and we all know it doesn’t get better with age. Here are some top notch ways to prepare your salmon…- A quick shout out to readers resulted in some terrific ideas: Cedar planked with pickled onions; olive oil poached with rosemary and wild fennel; grilled with lemon slices and dill; marinated with maple syrup and soy sauce; sashimi or with butter, garlic and mango salsa.- DIY Lox: It takes some doing, but you can either cold smoke (if you’re lucky enough to have a smoker) or salt-cure salmon steaks in the fridge and make your own lovely lox.
– Slow Roast: Chef John Ash recommends a slow roast in a 250-degree oven. Cook slowly to retain all of the juiciness.
– Sushi with caution: If you’re going raw, make sure your salmon has been frozen first. Most US sushi sold in restaurants has been flash frozen to kill off parasites and worms that are naturally prevalent in many fish. You’ll be fine if you just follow a bit of caution and make sure you’re buying from a reputable fish monger.
– Don’t mangle your Sockeye: Make sure you have a sharp boning knife if you’re going to do any cutting. Fish flesh is delicate, and will easily turn to mush if you man-handle it (trust me). Invest in a flexible boning knife if you can swing Sur La Table Culinary Instructor Mary Bergin recommends the Global 6-inch knife to her classes.
Fitting that bill is Taku River Reds, a family-run Alaskan fishing operation that’s co-owned by Sonoma County native and marine scientist Kirk Hardcastle. “Kirk knew at 10 that he wanted to be on the water,” said his father, Bob, who lives in Forestville. The senior Hardcastle picks up the Alaskan salmon each week at the Oakland Airport and distributes it to local fish markets including the venerable Monterey Fish Market in Berkelely. He can also be frequently found at Molsberry’s Market (522 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa, 546-2331) handing out samples of the fish.
During the brief season, Kirk, along with his wife Heather and his in-laws manage thousands of pounds of weekly catches from eight contracted fishermen. The fish arrive at the dock around noon, are packed by 5pm and on the plane the following day, headed for restaurants from New York to Hawaii and on the table within 24 hours. Currently, Sockeye is at it’s peak season — the brightest colored salmon because of the krill and plankton it eats. Coho season starts in mid-August. Kind salmon runs from May through June.
While still on the boat, the fish are processed using a unique method called “pressure bleeding”which quickly drains the fish of blood, stalling the breakdown of the meat. They’re then placed in a seawater “slush” to cool the fish, painstakingly packaged to minimize damage. The result: Salmon that don’t smell fishy, have firm, moist flesh and taste like, well, what you think salmon should taste like.
Local chef devotees echo the sentiment. “This is the best quality salmon, just an incredible product,” said Cork’s Restaurant at Russian River Vineyards Chef Todd Davies. “And my dad is a salmon fisherman in Alaska. I’ll have their fish on my menu for as long as they’re catching fish,” he said. On Cork’s menu: Seared salmon with a saffron shellfish broth, mussels, lava beans and sea beans (5700 Gravenstein Highway North, Forestville, 887-3344). You’ll also find Taku River Salmon at the Farmhouse Inn (macadamia nut crusted with book choy, leeks and coconut lemongrass emulsion, 7871 River Road, Forestville, 887-3300); Korbel Winery Deli (13250 River Road, Guerneville, 824-7000), and John Ash & Co. (4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 527-7687). And if you have a Stanford student? Well, they’re eating Taku River Red’s as well. The university contracted for 20,000 pounds of fish this year.
Where else to find great salmon this season:
– Smoked Salmon: Nearly as precious as gold are the slices of smoked salmon from Santa Rosa Seafood (946 Santa Rosa Ave., 579-2085) at local farm markets. You’ll spend a pretty penny for these slices of carefully smoked local salmon, but it’s so worth it when you taste it. Sweet and addictive, locals call it “candy for adults”.
– Aioli Delicatessen: Tucked away in Forestville, Chef Autumn Barber serves wild King salmon from Bodega Bay with an herb crust, butter lettuce, poached baby red potatoes and cherry tomatoes with a whole grain mustard cream sauce each Wednesday and Thursday throughout salmon season. 6536 Front St, Forestville, 887-2476.
– Viola Pastry Cafe: Chef John Ash said one of his favorite recent salmon dishes was at this Santa Rosa cafe. On the dinner menu: Pan Seared salmon with summer a vegetable ragu. 709 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 544-8830.
It’s been a bittersweet year for Nancy Prebilich and the Gleason Ranch family. Beloved by discerning local chefs for her pasture-raised chickens, lamb and pork, the West County rancher was featured in both Food & Wine magazine (where her lamb made the cover) and on “Meat in America” on The History Channel this spring.
