Page 571 – Sonoma Magazine

Wednesday Night Market report

May 2011

By biteclub

For years, Santa Rosa’s Wednesday night Downtown Market has been an incubator for new food businesses. In it’s 2011 debut, that tradition seems to be continuing.

Though some areas of the sprawling evening market between Mendocino and E St. seemed a bit sparse on opening night, new faces including Seoul Food TaKorea (a Korean Taco bar), Not Your Momma’s Granola and Sonoma Hot Cones were a welcome sight.

Owners at TaKorea said that they’re testing the concept for a fusion of Korean bbq and tacos at the market in hopes of opening a restaurant in Santa Rosa in the near future. The sweet beef nestled inside corn tacos was a definite winner. The most fascinating concept was Sonoma Hot Cones — sweet and savory fillings piled inside crunchy waffle cones.

The pulled pork with coleslaw is stuffed into a savory cone, which makes for a filling meal that’s travel-ready during the market. We were hooked. Other flavors include Spicy Thai green curry spaghetti and meatballs and apple crisp.

Familiar food favorites were also at the market, including Street-Eatz, Harvey’s Mini Donuts, Rosso Pizzeria, Willie Bird Turkey legs and California Thai.

Santi closed?

May 2011

By biteclub

UPDATE: A phone message from a man claiming to be owner Doug Swett confirmed that the restaurant was shuttered. BiteClub has still not been able to reach Swett or Chef Richey for details about the closure.

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News that Santi restaurant in Fountaingrove has closed is rippling through the food community.

Though the details remain sketchy a sign on the window states that the restaurant is closed due to a fire. But insiders say the staff was let go on Tuesday and many in the restaurant biz knew that the restaurant had been on COD (cash on delivery) status with at least some of its purveyors for several months. Money troubles are suspected.

It’s unfortunate, because the restaurant flourished in Geyserville for more than 10 years, but in 2010 when the restaurant relocated it faced some serious hurdles — a held up liquor license, then a parking lot hubub with disgruntled Fountain Grove neighbors and finally, early this year, the departure of longtime executive chef, Liz Hinman. Hinman’s successor, Doug Richey, took over this year. The young and talented chef has plenty to offer, and will hopefully reappear elsewhere soon.

Food a focus at forthcoming XXV

May 2011

By biteclub

Though XXV Cafe & Lounge in Santa Rosa isn’t slated to open until mid-summer, the menu is well underway.

The still-unfinished space’s Executive Chef John Lyle told BiteClub he’s dreaming of summer strawberries from Nancy Skall’s Middleton Farm for strawberry ice cream and berries he’ll call “The Best Strawberries You’ve Ever Had.” Not to mention the tomatoes from Healsdburg’s Mix Farm or a grilled cheese made with Bellwether Farms’ Carmody cheese.

Currently a top toque at Lisa Hemenway’s Fresh, Lyle will soon be doing double duty at the all-day cafe featuring seasonal, farm-centric soups, salads and sandwiches in Courthouse Square.

What else to look forward to? A back to basics Caesar, Grilled Cheese menu, breads from Petaluma’s Della Fattoria, local wines and beer and plenty of farm-fresh produce.

“It’s not fussy food. It’s what we’re actually eating here in Sonoma,” said Lyle.’ It’s truly the type of food I cook and eat.”

Lyle said owner and interior designer Kendrick Rustad’s plans are for a modern lounge space with luxurious food, art and entertainment space for everything from brunches to movie nights and an upscale gathering spot.

Stay tuned for more details…

Catelli’s Restaurant on DDD

May 2011

By biteclub

Nearly 200 people packed in Catelli’s Restaurant in Geyserville last night as the Italian eatery made it’s television debut on The Food Network’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.

“We had a random person who saw the show call within 10 minutes and make a reservation. We’re excited to see what happens,” said Domenica Catelli, who is both chef and owner.

How did it come about? Co-owner (and brother)Nicholas worked for host Guy Fieri for more than a decade as cook, bartender and eventually manager of Johnny Garlic’s and Tex Wasabi’s. “It was really nice of him to consider us, considering we’re neither a diner, drive-in or dive,” Catelli said.

Fieri, who filmed in December, called the Catelli’s family ravioli’s some of the best he’d ever eaten. Rolled paper-thin, Chef Domenica showed viewers that you could even read the paper (which happened to be a Press Democrat) through the dough. Other family recipes on the menu include made to order meatballs sliders, Nonnie’s minestrone, local lamb, burgers and the family’s secret sauce.

If the name sounds familiar, it’s because the Catelli’s have a long Sonoma County history, having debuted in it’s current home in the 1936. Known as “The Rex”, the homestyle Italian eatery endured until the mid-1980s (the family was not involved in a namesake restaurant in Healdsburg). Santi, which relocated to Santa Rosa in 2010. Shortly after the move, Domenica and brother Nicholas re-opened the restaurant after buying the building from their father.

Well-known in the food world for her expertise on healthy and organic cooking, the Catelli’s source locally and organically

“We always dreamed of coming back,” said Domenica.

Catelli’s, 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, (707) 857-3471

Rosso Mozzarella Bar

May 2011

By biteclub

Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar’s John Franchetti is something of a mozzarella guru.

Since opening the restaurant, he’s become legendary for the creamy, freshly pulled cheese served daily at the pizzeria and at various farm stands around the county. He teaches classes at Relish Culinary (see upcoming classes)on the art of curd pulling, as well as making this creamy Italian cheese (which is harder to make than you might think).

In preparation for the opening of the cheese-focused Rosso Pizzeria that will soon open in Petaluma, the Santa Rosa outpost has added Mozzarella Bar to the menu, featuring the cheese in it’s many forms: as the cream-centered burrata, stuffed with goat curd, as stracciatella (shreds of mozzarella) or shaved on bruschette.

Heaven in dairy form.

Rosso Pizzeria + Wine Bar:53 Montgomery Dr, Santa Rosa, 544-3221

WiFi, Wine, & Jazz On The Plaza

May 2011

By biteclub

You know those tools at your local coffee shop, the ones that holler into their iPhones while holding court at that prime table over by the window, and generally behave as if the place is a private office? Well, hopefully I’m not one of them, because, surely, I’m not without sin. The thing of it is, I work out of a home office, and that turns island fever into an occupational hazard; it’s a matter of when, not if, I meander inexorably toward the nearest watering hole for the vaguely self-employed, in search of caffeine and a free WiFi connection, entangled by their gravitational clutch like a planetary body in search of its sun…

I live in Healdsburg, where you can count the freebie hotspots on one hand. Which means, more often than not, when I feel compelled to escape the moronic drone of the talking heads over at CNBC or Fox Business, I end up at the Flying Goat, purveyors of outstanding espresso (which, to the Goat’s undying credit, they serve ristretto by default).

But sometimes, my partners on the East Coast have all gone home, it’s a gorgeous Sunday afternoon in wine country and I’m off the clock, or for whatever set of reasons I’m just plain done, and what I really want is a sip of some tasty wine to wash down my Internet addiction, and that’s when I head down the block to to the Vintage Wine Estates tasting room, home to cozy couches, fast and free WiFi, a particularly smoking-hot Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast Vineyards, and – on the second Sunday of every month – sweet jazz from guys like local guitar wizard, Christian Foley-Beining. In fact, now that I mention it, I’ll be there next Sunday, so come on by and dig it.

Rendez Vous Bistro | Santa Rosa

May 2011

By biteclub

Steak Frites at Rendez Vous Bistro in Santa Rosa

Restaurant redemptions are rarer than a $2 steak. Which makes discovery all the sweeter.

In its first eighteen months, Santa Rosa’s Rendez Vous Bistro (which opened in March of 2009) was the source of significant Net chatter –– some quite unflattering. Despite a major interior revamp, the restaurant publicly struggled with uneven service and an inconsistent kitchen. Owner Nino Rabbaa, who sunk much of his own wealth into the venture, persevered at the central Santa Rosa location bolstered by a convenient location, a large and sunny outdoor space, a vibrant bar scene and a serviceable if not impressive food.

Earlier this year things began to turn around with the hiring of Chef de Cuisine Matthew Karson, a Santa Rosa native (and SRJC culinary grad) who spent time in the haute SF kitchen of Aqua and several local restaurant restaurants before landing at Rendez Vous. Bringing youthful ambition and high-end French technique to Rabbaa’s bistro classics, the two seem to have finally cracked the code. The menu is now approachable enough for workaday lunchers but with enough carefully-tuned details to impress the dining out crowd.

“Like a fine wine, with age we get better,” said Rabbaa, who plans to open a second eatery, a high end burgery in Santa Rosa this summer.

Though there are still missteps (desserts never quite hit the mark and when Karson isn’t in the kitchen, it can show), the restaurant seems to have found solid footing to build on. With a crowded playing field of top-notch French bistros in Sonoma County, the bar is set high. But if Rendez Vous can continue to match friendly service, kitchen talent and well-priced Parisian fare in its highly-trafficked downtown space, BiteClub can honestly say: Restaurant redeemed.

What to Eat
Dip Your Toe: BiteClub’s first foray back was Rendez Vous’ weeknight prix-fixe dinner served Monday through Thursday from 5-9:30. Three solid courses included a classic beef-broth French Onion Soup, meltingly delicious wine-braised Beef Bourguignon with creamed potatoes and haricots verts and a mini Crepe Suzette. Impressively plated and generously portioned, it was a meal that made me rethink the restaurant.

Small Bites: Happy Hour and late night, Rendez Vous serves up bar bites well into the night including truffled pommes frites, a petite tuna tartar, polenta fries, and sliders. Plus, a nifty specialty cocktail menu with gimlets, mojitos, and margaritas from $7 to $9. Sunday through Thursday 3-6pm and 9-12am; Friday and Saturday, 3-6pm, 10pm to 2am.

Go For It: Kobe Beef Steak Frites ($24.25) is a lush strip of Snake River steak, truffled butter and celery root slaw with crispy fries. Liberty Farms Duck Confit is one of the most ambitious and delicious dishes, with crispy skin, white beans and shaved fennel ($18.50); Tuna Tartare ($14.50) has gone through a number of evolutions, including pear, almonds and other flavors, but might best be left to let the fish speak for itself; Pan-Seared Sustainable Salmon ($19.50) shows off artichoke frites, melted leeks and smoked tomato foam (a Karson favorite); Seared Sonoma Foie Gras: Lush, indulgent with dried cherries and watercress, along with a Champagne gastrique ($16.50)

Crepes: Sweet or savory, Rabbaa has definite ideas about how a crepe should be — slightly crispy and not made with buckwheat flour. Loaded with fillings, they’re a slightly more American-friendly version made with white flour. Savories include duck confit with béchamel; ham, Gruyere and spinach with a fried egg, shredded chicken with olive tapenade and mushroom with Mornay and white truffle oil. Sweet Suzette’s are solid, if slightly sweet, but I have to question the “Aurelie” a frozen crepe filled with Oreo cookies and ice cream — mon dieu.

Aioli: I’ve told the story a thousand times, but it bears repeating. On one of the first nights of Rendez Vous opening, I asked for aioli with my fries (notch) and was given a ramekin of olive oil with garlic in it by a confused waiter. Not cool at a French bistro. The restaurant now has three different types of aioli: Plain, basil and white truffle.

Rendez Vous Bistro: 614 4th St., Santa Rosa, 526-7700.

> MORE FRENCH RESTAURANTS

Mother’s Day 2011

May 2011

By biteclub

Take it from someone who knows: The best gift for a hard-working mother is a meal she doesn’t have to make. Want to really make her heart sing? Clean up after yourself, too.

Mother’s Day (which is Sunday, May 8, in case you forgot), is the one day each year we moms get a pass to put up our feet, be showered with affection and appreciated for all we do. We accept with equal gratitude tissue flowers and finger-painted masterpieces as well as wildflower bouquets, cards and hug coupons.

But for the lady who serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner without fail day after day, a reprieve from the kitchen is worth its weight in gold. So if you’re searching for the perfect idea, even last minute, there’s still hope for the lollygaggers and late-comers among you.

Shower her with Flowers: Luther Burbank Home & Gardens
From petunias to tomatoes, a variety of perennials, herbs, annuals and veggies are on sale from $2 to $9, along with a free corsage. Propagated from the historic gardens of this horticultural landmark, these starts have serious green-thumb cache for backyard gardeners. 204 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa, 524-5445.

Where to eat nearby: Bliss Bakery (gluten-free goodies, 463 Sebastopol Avenue Santa Rosa, 542-6000), Taqueria Las Palmas (spice up mom’s day, 415 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 546-3091); Dierk’s Parkside Café (404 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 573-5955), Rendez Vous Bistro (10am to 8pm, kids under 10 eat free, $5 mimosas, 614 4th Street Santa Rosa, 526-7700).

Head To The Country: Get a little fresh air on a drive through West County, destination unknown.
On your way, Lynmar Estate Winery is offering moms a taste of their new rose release paired with Meyer lemon pound cake and strawberries (the dessert is free for moms, $10 for everyone else, 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol, 829-3374.) On the way, stop for a to-dip into the cool Russian River, a stroll through the Sunday farm market in downtown Sebastopol and end the day with a slice of pie from Mom’s Apple Pie (4550 Gravenstein Highway North Sebastopol, CA 95472-2240 – (707) 823-8330). Stroll with mom along the beautiful West County Trail (you can park behind the old Graton Fire Station, but watch for bikes while walking!)

Where to eat nearby: Zazu Restaurant & Farm: $37 per person, kids under 12 half price. 9am to 3pm, 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 523-4814; Henweigh Café ($16.95 Mom’s Day Brunch 9:30am to 2pm, 4550 Gravenstein Hwy North, Sebastopol 829-7500, ; Sarah’s Forestville Kitchen (cash only, but great southern-inspired favorites and a kid-friendly patio, 6566 Front St., Forestville, 887-1055). Willow Wood Market and Café, 9020 Graton Rd., Graton, 823-0233.

Valley Venture: Sonoma Valley reminds us all why we live here…the views, the hills, the farms and of course, the wine
Both Sugarloaf Ridge State Park and Jack London State Park have mild to adventurous hikes to work up mom’s appetite. Afterwards, stop in for a wine tasting along Highway 12 (Chateau St. Jean and Landmark are particularly mom-friendly) or a biodynamic vineyard and cave tour at Benziger Winery. In Glen Ellen, the Red Barn Store is a hidden gem with Martha Stewart-perfect wreaths and flowers along with herbs and vegetables from the coveted Oak Hill Farm. (10am to 6pm Wed through Sunday, 15101 Sonoma Hwy)

Where to eat nearby: Big 3 Diner (18140 Hwy, 12, Sonoma, 939-2410); girl and the fig, 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 938-3634; Red Grape Pizza, 529 1st Street West, Sonoma, 996-4103); Epicurean Connection (grab and go sandwiches, cheeses, fresh salads and picnic fare, 18812 Sonoma Hyw, Sonoma).

Grab a Picnic and Go:  Seems like pretty much everyone has the same idea on warm, sunny days – head to the park.
Be prepared to jockey for parking and be sure to bring a blanket to sit on, as picnic tables are at a premium. But if you’re headed park side, make sure to stock up with plenty of yummy picnic fare beforehand. Many wineries are happy to have picnickers, but it’s usually necessary to purchase a bottle of wine beforehand.
– Dry Creek General Store, 3495 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 433-4171
– Fresh By Lisa Hemenway: 5755 Mountain Hawk, Santa Rosa, 595-1048.
– Oakville Grocery: 124 Matheson Street, Healdsburg, 433-3200
– Andy’s Produce: 1691 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, 823-8661
– Glen Ellen Village Market: 13751 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 996-6728.

Breakfast in Bed: Don’t worry if you can’t boil water. There are plenty of local bakeries who’ll let you take all the credit.
–    Downtown Bakery and Creamery: Best sticky buns in the world. 308 A Center St., Healdsburg, 431-2719.
–    Village Bakery: 1445 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa, 527-7654
–    Blue Label at the Belvedere: 727 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa, 542-8705.
–    Bovine Bakery: 23 Kentucky Street, Petaluma, 789-9556
–    Café des Croissants: 2444 Lomitas Avenue, Santa Rosa, 544-6710, also Montgomery Village and Oakmont.
–    Donut Hut: 555 Healdsburg Avenue, Santa Rosa, 544-2085.

Life’s Short, Eat More Waffles

May 2011

By biteclub

Waffles want for cured pork like my kids want for soap: as undeniably sweet and delicious as they may be au naturelle, they’re immeasurably improved by the right sort of garnish. I say this with some confidence, not only because I know what my kids smell like after they’ve talked me out of one too many baths in a row, but because none other than than Sonoma County’s own Prince and Princess of Pork, and the High Priestess of BiteClub herself, have a publicized habit of serving up bacon-in-the-batter waffles for brunch. And since we here in the Proximal Kitchen remain firmly entrenched in the “if some is good, more is better” camp, I got to thinking: what other salty bits of Wilbur might flatter the sweetness of the all-American waffle?

We could split hairs over whether it’s the added crunch or hint of smoke that makes bacon such a loving plate-mate to a waffle but, for me, the drool-worthy duo has its roots in the vaguely trashy, salty-sweet, unapologetically guilty pleasure of breakfast meat slathered in syrup; indeed, it’s hard for me to think of a form of pork, particularly but by no means exclusively of the cured variety, that wouldn’t play nice with the nutty, honeyed richness of the sap of the sugar maple… and, given that, why stop at bacon-in-the-batter?

Life has taught me that, given a chance, luck almost always betters skill, at least in the short run, and thus it was pure happenstance that we had a slug of Palacios Chorizo Picante lying about. I love chorizo made in the classic Spanish style, dry cured with loads of smoky paprika and garlic, with just the right amount of heat and a dense, chewy texture that I thought would hold its ground against the steamy interior of a waffle in situ.

As long as we’re on the salty-sweet-breakfast train, why not make the batter with cornmeal, because what’s better with honey and butter than a golden brown crusty wedge of griddled cornbread? And finally, because it’s almost always better to regret something you’ve done than something you haven’t, let’s gild the lily with a fat handful of tangy goat’s milk cheddar from local fave Redwood Hill Farm, because goat’s milk cheeses kick ass with with smoky sausage and cornbread, because cheese bubbling and frying in a waffle iron makes for a sinful crunch along the pasty’s leading edge, and because my kids have even milked the goats…

Chorizo-Cheddar Cornmeal Waffles

Note: Like all pancake-style batters, you can make it at the last minute, but it will be far better if it rests. Particularly if you like a courser grind of cornmeal, the extra resting time gives the grain time to soak up the liquid; we will often do it the night before and rest in the fridge to simplify and speed up a hangover/kiddie cure in the AM – just be sure to tell the kids to take it out an hour before they get you up.

1 cup all-purpose flour + 1 cup medium-grind cornmeal
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3 really fresh eggs, beaten (preferably from a local farmer like Rian at Wyeth Acres)
1/4 cup melted butter, cooled, plus a little extra to grease the iron
2 cups milk
1 cup grated sharp cheddar (preferably from Sonoma County goats!)
1 cup small-dice dry cured chorizo sausage (you can find Palacios at Traverso’s in SR and The Cheese Shop in Healdsburg)

Method
Set up your waffle iron around medium high. Don’t forget a spritz of oil. Melt butter, set aside. Beat milk and eggs together, set aside. (See ahead-of-time note on resting batter, above.)

Sift together dry ingredients in a large bowl (don’t try to sift the cornmeal – mix that in after). Pour wet mixture into dry and combine with a few brisk strokes – don’t overwork it. Incorporate diced chorizo and grated cheese in to the batter.

Ladle enough batter (it’s impossible to say – depends on the size of your iron) to just fill the bottom tray and barely cover the ‘studs’ of the iron. Cook until steam slows from the iron and the waffles are crisp and golden-brown; probably 5 minutes, or thereabouts. (You can test one square first if you’re not sure – and better to wait too long, lest you wreck the iron.)

Serve immediately with butter and maple syrup. Ideally, make a compound butter out of goat’s milk butter and dark syrup in advance, cut into discs, and serve on top.

If you want a really hearty meal, a gently fried egg makes a great side.

Farmstand meets food trucks meets tomatoes: Kendall Jackson

May 2011

By biteclub

Kendall Jackson Wine Center kicks off their summertime farm stand with a massive heirloom tomato seed sale, estate produce market, artisan cheese tasting and food truck extravaganza this Saturday, May 7, 2011. Consider it a one-stop-shop for just about every hot food trend happening this spring.

For greenthumbs: The extensive Kendall-Jackson culinary gardens are a tomato lovers’ paradise, harvesting nearly dozens of different varieties of heirlooms on their own property and hosting the annual Heirloom Tomato Festival each fall. For backyard gardeners, they’ll be selling more than 100 varieties of seeds and starts at Saturday’s event. They’ll go fast, so get there early.

For cheeseheads: K-J’s own curd nerd Tracey Shepos (formerly of Stark’s) will be sampling and selling local artisan cheeses as well as hosting cheesemaker Sheana Davis (Delice de la Vallee, Epicurean Connection) as the first featured cheesemaker.

For food truckers: The local mobile kitchens many of us came to know and love (and ultimately lose in downtown Santa Rosa) have been booked non-stop around Sonoma County, most recently getting a gig at the K-J market. Expect to see the usual suspect: Fork, Karma, Street-Eatz, Dim Sum Charlie’s and Chicago Style Hot Dogs on the 7th.

For loafers: Bakers Eric Frischkorn and Brandii Magliulo are bread and pastry whiz-kids who’ll be up at the crack of dawn to bake up fresh and yeasty goodies for the market.

For the fruit and veg crowd: Early season estate grown goodies including favas, lettuces, spinach, beets, carrots and frisee.

The Details: Saturday, May 7, 2011 Where: Kendall-Jackson Wine Center, 5007 Fulton Road, Fulton, California (directions) Farm Stand: 10am – 1pm Plant Sale : 10am – 5pm (B.Y.O.B. – Bring your box / bag for packing your tomato plants.) Food Trucks: 11am – 2pm

Missed this event? The farm stand will be held the first Saturday of each month from May through October (excluding September).