Lucky Peach

Foodies are pretty much wetting themselves over David Chang’s new food magazine, Lucky Peach, which debuted June 22. Just two days out, it’s been named the Best New Food Mag of 2011.

Created in collaboration with the uber-cool McSweeney’s crew in SF, it’s what we all wish a food magazine would be: irreverent, a little nuts, forward-thinking, content-dense, unbeholden to advertisers, filled with weird illustrations, and featuring a cider-fueled conversation between Anthony Bourdain, David Chang and Wylie Dufresne (Bourdain gets his ass handed to him, which is soooooo satisfying).

The mammoth 175-page issue is based around the topic of Ramen, with recipes, anecdotes and lengthy love-letters to the perfect noodle.

Like an indulgently wonderful meal, it’s something that you don’t try to consume in a few bites, but sit with for a few days, finding new tidbits to savor with every mouthful.  I’ve only let myself read a few pages at a time, not wanting to devour it since the next issue isn’t slated until September.

If you can find it (Copperfield’s in Santa Rosa had one issue left, and you can forget about finding it anywhere else, because I spent all of yesterday looking), it’s well worth the $10. Subscriptions are still available through McSweeney’s.

Want more good news? A Lucky Peach app is in development (slated for July) and McSweney’s has started a new imprint called Insatiables specializing in food and cookbooks. Mission Street Food will be its first book (available August 2).

Food Events: Sonoma Marin Fair 2011

Besides the first-of-the-year Fair Food, funnel cake eat-offs and did we mention funnel cakes, there’s plenty of amazing local food and chefs to check out at the Sonoma-Marin Fair!! (I mean, in addition to the Ugliest Dog Contest, Rides, Demolition Derby and other fun)

Celebrity Chef Demos
Friday, June 24, Sponsored by La Tortilla Factory
2pm Chef Esteban (AKA Steve Rose), The Vineyards Inn Spanish Bar & Grill
4pm Chef Armando Coronel, El Coronel Mexican Restaurant
7pm Sabor de Sonoma Marin Concurso de tamales

Saturday, June 25, Sponsored by Oliver’s Market
2 pm The Prince and Princess of Porc, John Stewart and Duskie Estes
of Zazu, Bovolo, and Black Pig Meat Co.
4 pm Christian Caiazzo of Osteria Stellina
6 pm Brandon Guenther of Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen and Saloon

Sunday, June 26, Sponsored by G&G Supermarket
2 pm Chef Michael Tusk of Quince and Cotogna
4 pm Angelo Sacerdote of Petaluma Pie Company
6 pm Maria Vieages of G&G Supermarket

Funnel Cake Eating Contest
5:30 and 7:30 pm Wed. through Saturday
3:30 and 7 pm on Sunday

Farm to Table Showcase
The Farm to Table Showcase is one of Sonoma-Marin Fair’s most popular features. It brings together farmers, ranchers and producers to showcase some of Sonoma and Marin County’s freshest produce, finest meats, delicious dairy and unique handcrafted foods. See, taste and meet your food in this multi-sensory venue located in the center of the fair in the Beverly C. Wilson Building! Foodies rejoice!
Open daily until 8 pm. Sponsored by Clover Stornetta and Cowgirl Creamery.

Wine Talks and Events
Friday, June 24, 6-9 PM
Understanding Wine Using Jelly Belly® Jelly Beans by Debra DelForentino and Jil Child.
It’s all in the nose. Train yours with the assorted aromas of Jelly Belly® Jelly Beans.

Saturday, June 25, 3:15 PM
Translating Wine Speak with Joe Gargiulo.
If you want to graduate from layman to expert, start here.

Saturday, June 25, 4:30-5:30 PM
For the more ambitious, Master Gardener Dennis Przybycien will talk about how to create your own backyard vineyard.

>>Check out the Fair Website

Chef Stephen Barber takes over at Farmstead

Sheamus Feeley
Sheamus Feeley
Sheamus Feeley

Bummed: Sheamus was incredible and probably one of the nicest guys in the biz. Congrats to Chef Barber. Looks like a good reason to check out the changes!
+++++

Long Meadow Ranch announced today that award-winning Chef Stephen Barber will assume the duties of executive chef at Farmstead restaurant on August 1st.  Barber will replace Executive Chef Sheamus Feeley.  Adam Kim, Farmstead’s opening general manager, will be promoted to executive general manager.

Barber was most recently chef of Fish Story restaurant in Napa, which is owned by Chef Bradley Ogden’s Lark Creek Restaurant Group. Previously, he was executive chef of MECCA in San Francisco where he received three stars from Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle and was named a 2004 “Rising Star Chef.” In 2007, Barber opened BarbersQ in Napa, which also received three stars from the San Francisco Chronicle, was featured on the “Top 10 Best New Restaurants 2007” and “Top 100 Restaurants” lists by Mr. Bauer, and was named a Michelin Guide “Bib Gourmand.”

Chef Sheamus Feeley will rejoin the Hillstone Restaurant Group as Vice President of Culinary Development, where he worked from 2003 until joining the Hall family’s Long Meadow Ranch Winery & Farmstead in 2009.  Hillstone operates upscale/casual dining establishments, with brands including Rutherford Grill, Hillstone (formerly known as Houston’s), Bandera, R+D and Gulfstream restaurants.  Feeley and his family will relocate to Boulder, Colorado, where he previously was chef/owner of Mateo Restaurant.

A Kentucky native, Chef Barber began his culinary career at one of the best restaurants in Mississippi, City Grocery, working with Chef John Currence. Barber next moved to Miami, where he spent four years honing his craft under Chef Norman Van Aken at his eponymous
restaurant, Norman’s. Van Aken subsequently brought on Barber as the opening chef de cuisine for Bambu restaurant, where he was discovered by MECCA’s owner.

“We are delighted to have a chef of Stephen’s stature join our team,” said Ted Hall, President & General Manager of Hall family-owned Long Meadow Ranch, which owns and operates the restaurant. “Stephen will continue Farmstead’s authentic farm-to-table menu and he brings great experience to our new outdoor live-fire space where he can showcase primal grilling for large and small groups.”

Building on his Southern roots, Barber will bring his own ingredient-driven approach to Farmstead’s American farmhouse cooking and he will continue to utilize the organic produce, grass-fed beef, eggs, and olive oils from Long Meadow Ranch and other local artisanal producers.

“Stephen has been a regular customer of our products for his own table since he moved to the Napa Valley,” said Laddie Hall, who operates Long Meadow Ranch’s farmstand.  “And, he featured our grass-fed beef and hot dogs while he was at BarbersQ.  So, his joining Farmstead is just a return to the family.”

“I am thrilled to have this opportunity to create an exciting dining experience at moderate prices that brings fresh, healthy food to the table.” said Barber. “My cooking style has always been driven by the seasons and I now have the opportunity to take local ingredients at their peak freshness and prepare them with all of the right tools — including the wood-fired oven, wood-burning grill, plancha, and outdoor live fire.”

“We are very excited for Sheamus,” said Ted Hall. “He is taking on company-wide responsibility at Hillstone Group, which operates more than 50 top-quality restaurants across the country.  And, he is returning to family roots in Colorado. It is a great career opportunity for Sheamus. We are very grateful for his contribution to the successful launch of Farmstead.”

Oenotri | Napa

Jeff Kan Lee/PD
Jeff Kan Lee/PD
Jeff Kan Lee/PD

There’s a reason Napa newcomer Oenotri has been showered with critical praise. It’s just that good.  Despite humble beginnings (Cheesecake Factory), Curtis Di Fede and Tyler Rodde (co-exec chefs) have serious chops (Oliveto, Fat Duck) and are among the top salumists in the Bay Area (no small feat). The chefs cast a light on under-represented Italian regions including Siciliy, Campania and Puglia. The pizzas are unparalleled, using Italian 00 flour and a wood-fueled Acino oven from Naples. Homemade pastas are outstanding. Leave room for weep-worthy seasonal panna cotta.

1425 First St., Napa, 252-1022.

Your name on a chocolate room?

Like guests on a tour of Willy Wonka’s factory, before us stands the dedicated ice cream and chocolate room. Everyone oohs and ahhhs, it’s possible there was clapping.

Despite the fact that the yet-unfinished room is still mostly sheet rock and bare outlets, the inside temperature is nearing 90 degrees, and we’re tripping over discarded nails and piles of lumber rather than candy toadstools and whipped cream flowers. there’s a moment of sweet imagination for all of us.

Mmmm. Chocolate and ice cream.

In just about six months, this diabolically delicious space, along with the rest of Santa Rosa Junior College’s spanking new B. Robert Burdo Culinary Arts Center will be up and running. Now in the final phases of construction, the $20 million building is slated for completion by December 2011.  The 22,000 square foot center will include a new student-run cafe, five commercial kitchens, onsite retail bakery, classrooms, wine library and barbecue patio, and specially tiled, temperature controlled chocolate and ice cream room.

And your name could be on any one of them.

In order to provide a $1 million student endowment, the school is selling “naming opportunities” at the center. What that means is that everything from the cafe to the ice cream room are available for naming — at a price. Ranging from $5,000 for a hallway to $250,000 for the dining room and demonstration kitchen. The cafe’s pizza oven can have your name on it for $10,000; the production bakery for $50,000 and the ice cream and chocolate room a cool $10,000.

Located on Mendocino Avenue in Santa Rosa, just across from the main campus, the forthcoming culinary center it’s been a source of curiosity and eager anticipation for more than a year as construction on the two-story building commenced. BiteClub was among those who got a hard-hat sneak preview tour this week.

The building itself, which Michael Salinger, chair of the SRJC consumer and family studies department (but best known as the head toque at the student-run cafe at Santa Rosa’s Brickyard Center) moons over like a proud father  was long ago paid for with Measure A Bond Funds. But the center still has a hefty $1 million fund-raising goal to pay for scholarships and equipment.

“We are always struggling to accommodate a wide range of students,” said Salinger. That includes economically diverse students, many who are in their 30s, 40s and 50s; sometimes struggling financially and unable to pay for tuition, books and expensive knives required for the program. “We have had students who were once homeless,” said culinary arts instructor Betsy Fischer.

With the opening of the center, Salinger hopes to increase the number of days the cafe is open to the public (currently three), to include a Friday night dinner and brunch. The cafe’s capacity, about 60 diners, will remain about the same as its current location, but will include an outdoor patio with a grill and pizza oven. “We didn’t want to get overwhelmed,” Salinger said. Watching the white-jacketed baking students will still be a main focus, as well. Salinger specified that the windows facing Mendocino Ave. feature a view of the baking and pastry kitchen, something many people said they liked about the current Brickyard location.

According to Salinger, the growing program long ago outgrew its current digs and has had to turn away students to the popular year-long cooking degree. It currently has about 300 students enrolled each semester. The spring class of 2012 will be the first to use the center full-time.

Interested in having your name on a room? Find out how to make a gift online.

Hooters in Rohnert Park?


Rohnert Park correspondent Joelle Burnette reports that the town will consider an application from Hooters Restaurant to open at 6099 Redwood Drive.

Yes, you heard right. Hooters. Though the cheeky double entendre and skimpily clad Hooter Girls seem almost ridiculously tame after a decade of stripper chic and heroine fashion, there’s no doubt the restaurant will raise a few eyebrows. Uh, among other things.

Because really, who goes to Hooters for the food? Okay, the wings are kind of good admittedly. But the saucy chain hasn’t exactly made it’s reputation by offering family-friendly entertainment.

What’s surprising is that the chain recently went through significant contraction, closing dozens of restaurants primarily in the northeast and south due to ownership changes within the company. What’s not surprising is that Rohnert Park, along with the area around Coddingtown Mall in Santa Rosa are becoming increasingly chain-friendly despite years of Sonoma County actively discouraging ubiquitous national restaurants in favor of local eateries. BiteClub has heard rumors of several large national chains sniffing around.

And while more dining choices are always good, and growth is a sign that maybe — just maybe — the economy is getting better, it’s a devil’s bargain. Renowned for our farm-to-table restaurants, it would be a shame to become a giant strip mall dominated by Chevy’s, Macaroni Grill and the Cheesecake Factory. Local mom and pops just can’t compete.

Then again, since strip clubs are officially outlawed north of the Golden Gate, Hooters Girls and a basket of hot wings may be the most titillating show we’ve got in Wine Country. Not to mention…classy!

What’s your take?

Zazu wins Cochon 555 National in Aspen

Sonoma County’s Duskie Estes and John Stewart have won the pig-centric, pork-tastic Grand Cochon 555 in Aspen on June 20, 2011. But not without a little help from their friends.

The event, which held numerous semi-finals around the country culminated in an uber-pig-off between ten winning chefs. The challenge included a nose-to-tail dinner using all the parts of ten heritage breed pigs at the 2011 Food and Wine Festival in Aspen . Estes and Stewart, who are well known in the Bay Area for their restaurants and love of all things porcine (they own Black Pig Meats), were favorites for the coveted King of Porc title.

Stiff competition included chefs from around the country including Matthew Accarrino from SPQR in SF, Brad Farmerie of  Public Restaurant in NYC and Chad Colby of Mozza in LA.

“We were the underdogs,” said Stewart. Many of the other well-funded celeb chefs came with PR people, staff and even entourages. Zazu had their own secret weapon, their plumber Steve from Santa Rosa Plumbing.

Part of a group of contractors who have become part of the Zazu family, Steve paid his own way to the event and was waiting in the wings to see if he could help out during the stressful competition. It turns out that Estes, who has long helped out at the Food + Wine Event was tapped that morning to help out in a pinch and arrived at the event late. So her husband John, along with their trusty assistant chef Tara, tapped the plumber to help cut veggies and work the fry station.

The two texted BiteClub just after winning, “It’s so…coolness,” said Stewart just after the win. Estes and Stewart won the title Prince and Princess of Porc at a Wine Country Cochon 555 last spring wowing the judges with heart pork buns, head cowboy beans and bacon waffles. The duo will take part in an “All Star” Cochon event in Las Vegas on July 24, 2011.

Perhaps one of the most heartwarming parts of the story is how the restaurant’s plumber Steve Plumber Santa Rosa plumbing

“we have a whole group of con

Besides the sweet title, the two win a crown, two golden pigs, a set of Bob Kramer knives and a trip to Blackberry Farm in Tennessee.

Congrats Duskie, John, Tara and Steve!

Shed in the works


Cyrus is about to get a new neighbor.

The owners of Home Farm in Dry Creek Valley are about to break ground on SHED, a 9,700 square-foot multi-use market, cafe and event center in downtown Healdsburg. Replacing the former appliance store along Foss Creek, owners Cindy Daniel and Doug Lipton hope to curate a space for local produce, kitchen and garden tools and sustainable living.

“We’ll encourage our community of neighbors to enjoy what our regional farms offer, and we’ll explore local food crafts and revive forgotten tools and skills,” says Cindy.  “SHED will reflect and respect the day-to-day, seasonal blending of agriculture, food and wine in our community.”

SHED will include indoor and outdoor features:  observation deck over Foss Creek, al fresco and indoor dining, wood-fired oven, communal tables, quiet corners and a room for private events and public meetings. Finished with recycled steel siding, the design is inspired by historic market halls.  SHED will include green features:  natural cooling, photovoltaic cells, natural lighting, rain catchment system, recycling and composting.  The second floor will feature an event space available for workshops, meetings, performances and private parties.  The metal building currently on site (a former appliance store) will be removed and recycled, mid June 2011.
Owners hope to have the site completed by October 2012.

 

Papas Taverna | Petaluma

CLOSED
Come for the dolmas, stay for the belly dancing at Papas Taverna.


The North Bay can be a bit of a wasteland when it comes to authentic Greek and Middle Eastern restaurants. Finding hummus and tabbouleh seems to be easier at Trader Joe’s than in a Zagat Guide. There are exceptions, of course…

Greek to its very core, however, is Petaluma’s Papas Taverna. A wooden boat stands sentinel to a jumble of interconnected buildings that comprise this iconic Petaluma River eatery. An olive pit’s throw from Gillardi’s Landing (a small boat ramp), nearly every surface is trimmed in patriotic Greek colors — azure blue and white — leaving little question as to the heritage of owner Theodoros Papageorgacopoulos, brother to the much-loved original Papa, Leo.

Relatively sober during the week, it’s a family lunch retreat for pita, moussaka and burger spot with a view to the lazy river as it meanders toward the Bay. On the weekends, ouzo and good old Greek joie de vivre fuel an evening of live music, belly dancing and audience participation in arm-to-shoulder dance circles and general Zorba-worthy merriment. Theo’s wife, Glynnis serves as mistress of ceremonies, singing, dancing and often encouraging cringe-worthy middle age patrons to shake it on the dance floor.

On the menu, expect unfussy Greek standards like Dolmas, Moussaka, gyro, Mezze platters, Saganaki (fried cheese in Ouzo) along with Mixed Grills of lamb, chicken, sausage and beef. Burgers and fries are also on the menu for less adventurous eaters. Waits can be long on busy nights, but you weren’t really in any kind of hurry, were you?

Drinks are stiff and the company fun, but be mindful that the restaurant is located on Lakeville Highway — you’ll need your wits about you so have a few coffees and some baklava before you head out.

5688 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, (707) 769-8545. Open Wed/Thurs from 11:30 to 2:30pm; Friday – Sunday 11:30am to 10pm; closed Monday and Tuesday. Live Music Every Friday with Local Artist starts at 7:00PM; Live Greek music and Dancing on Saturday at 7:00 PM; Live Greek Music and Dancing on Sunday  starts at 3:30 PM.

Guerneville Taco Truck

I’ve long sought the greatest taco truck in Sonoma County.

There have been adventures to Roseland, Sonoma, and beyond. Many outstanding. Some good. Some not so much.

But through it all has been the Holy Grail yet untried: The Guerneville Taco Truck. Set up most days in the Safeway shopping center, it needs no name other than “Authentic Mexican Food”. That, and the line that stretches sometimes 10 or 20 deep on particularly sunny days.

There is little to say aside from: I have finally seen the light, and Guerneville Taco Truck, you are my burrito hero. My carnitas champion.

When you know, you know. Dare to compare.

Don’t believe me? Ask the Yelpers.

Guerneville Taco Truck, in the Safeway Shopping Center, 869-3023.

What’s your favorite taco truck, and why?