Chef Douglas Keane has confirmed that Shimo is, in fact, closed.
In an early morning phone call, Keane waxed philosophic about the shutter, saying that his passion for authentic Japanese cuisine may not have translated well in Healdsburg, and ultimately, the numbers just didn’t work out.
But despite some last ditch efforts, Keane decided to throw in the towel mid-November — in part so he could place some of the remaining staff at his other restaurants and afford to give a small severance to those he couldn’t. “If we waited until January there wasn’t much I could have done for them,” he said. A broken refrigerator sealed the deal early this week.
Keane plans to hold onto the space for now, seeking a possible buyer or testing a new restaurant concept with broader popular appeal (we’re voting for a Diavola-style offshoot). Meanwhile, he’ll continue holding down the fort at Cyrus and HBG.
An enigmatic Tweet this afternoon from Chef Douglas Keen of Shimo Modern Steak (Cyrus, HBG).
An intrepid BiteClubber tipped us off that the website seems to confirm that the restaurant may be going dark. Another troublesome sign: OpenTable is not accepting reservations.
Keane has not yet returned phone calls to confirm the closure, but this all seems like bad news.
A signal of things to come? Unfortunately, rumors are swirling throughout the county about a number of restaurants, and it could be a long, difficult winter for many. Stay tuned.
Forchetta/Bastoni is exactly the right kind of restaurant for tough economic times. Housed in the cavernous space that has seen its share of big ego chefs come and go, Jamilah Nixon (formerly of Lucy’s Table) and Steven Peyer (formerly of Peter Lowell’s) have split the space into two halves — a casual, lunchy noodle bar and a rustic Italian trattoria that (at least for now) only opens for dinner. It’s a smart ying-yang of flavors, concepts and price-points that at first blush seems like a solid concept as restaurants shutter left and right for lack of patrons.
With a minimal cosmetic rehab — bringing in funky wine glass chandeliers, remodeling the upstairs into a sort of cozy, flop-down on the sofa noodle house, repurposing the stately raw bar into an open lunch kitchen — the space immediately feels like a place you want to be.
Hitting the lunch crowd and wallet-watchers, the noodle bar, Bastoni, opened for lunch 11.11.11 to a packed house of curious locals. Encompassing the former bar area, it’s a constantly moving tableau of servers, kitchen staff and patrons pulling up seats and pondering the simple menu. Color bursts from every corner, with bright pillows, saraongs, Asian movie posters and straw rice cookers hanging from the light fixtures.
Bastoni Thai Curry
On the menu: Pickled vegetables, rustic banh mi, noodles, curry, and fried rice. Christened “Bastoni”, the Italian word for “sticks”, chopsticks are de riguer (forks are by request only) — this is casual finger food with prices to match. Banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) are filled with chicken liver and ground pork pate on a square Ciabbata roll ($10-12) which works with the Asia-meets-Italy theme. Order it “spicy” for an extra jolt of jalapeno added to the watermelon radish and carrots.
Wet noodles are a veritable bathtub of broth and meat (or tofu) with the seasoned broth similar to pho ($10-$12). But the Southern Thai Style Curry, heavy with coconut milk, kaffir lime, ginger and fresh pumpkin is the stand-out winner ($10-$12). Served with jasmine rice, it’s enough for two light eaters.
Larb, a Thai chopped salad with either chicken or tofu) is hand cut with a prickle of red chilies, cilantro, fish sauce and lime. It’s still a work in progress (a first order was too salty, the second lacked the citrus punch), but has layers of flavor that are sure to come together in the coming days.
The bar offers up stronger-than-average cocktails like the Thai-Garita with tequila, kaffir lime and cucumber for $9 along with a variety of other tipplers. The wine list is small, but well-thought with chards, sparklers and rieslings to match the spicy Asian menu. (Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee, Copain Vigonier, Dr. Loosen Dry Riesling, all available by the glass or bottle).
The Forchetta space opens for dinner this weekend, with reclaimed wood panels separating out the space, rustic window panes overhanging the cinema kitchen and a Martha-worthy centerpiece piled with dishes and topped by a shimmering chandelier. Wine bottles and Mason jars double as light fixtures and the table coverings are shabby-chic canvas with unraveled edges. It’s warm and inviting, and the kind of dinner spot that feels immediately accessible without being cheap.
So what’s on the menu? The pizza oven from West County Grill is still a centerpiece, so expect pizza. But aside from that, we can’t say exactly. At 2pm, the dinner menu was still in development. “It’s going to be really fresh, whatever we come up with,” said Nixon, wheeling out of the kitchen with another steaming bowl of noodles.
Stay tuned for more details…
Forchetta/Bastoni: 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 829-9500. Bastoni open daily from 11 am to 10 p.m. for lunch, dinner and late night snacks and midnight on Friday and Saturday. Forchetta opens for dinner Thursday through Monday from 5 to 9pm and until 10pm on Friday and Saturday. forchettabastoni.com.
After three decades of serving burgers and fries in Rincon Valley, the grill at Ozzie’s will go cold on Nov. 12. 2011.
Owner Jeff Gonsalves said it’s a devastating blow, but increasing competition from chains like Burger King (which recently opened on Mission Blvd.), Five Guys and In-N-Out along with a down economy have forced him to shut the doors at Ozzie’s Grill (799 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa).
“I’m just a normal guy who has cooked all his life. We aren’t rich and we can’t float this place all winter. I could be $50,000 in debt by February,” said Gonsalves, who purchased the restaurant from the original owners three years ago.
“Cheese, bacon, everything has gone up in price, and people just aren’t eating out,” he said. “We’re paying out more bills than we’re taking in,” he said.
Gonsalves said other local retailers in the Montecito Center Shopping center — like many mom and pop shops throughout Sonoma County — have been slower over the last 15 months and are worried about the long winter ahead. “Maybe the bar is doing better, I don’t know,” he added.
Gonsalves tried to sell the restaurant, but said he hasn’t had any serious offers. “It’s just sad. A few years ago, you’d see 20 trucks out there in the parking lot at 11am. People were coming from Rohnert Park, all over for my burgers. Now, maybe there’s one truck. I’m not rich, you know? We just can’t do it anymore,” said Gonsalves.
Wineries have figured out the best way to your wine glass is through your stomach.
True oenophiles know that the best way to really taste a wine is to pair it up with foods that complement (or sometimes contrast) the minerality, spiciness or fruit qualities inherent in both. Ever tried a hunk of stinky blue with a Sauvignon blanc? Or super sweet cake with bubbly? It’s not that it can’t work, but when we try to pair that big, beefy, smokey Cabernet Sauvignon we loved so much in the tasting room last month with a slab of prime rib — well, there’s only about a 50-50 chance that the two are going to sync up. Maybe less. Because unless you’re Robert Parker Jr., tasting wine without food is an exercise in futility.
So how to do it? Talking about wine pairing can be about as thrilling as a root canal. Instead, local wineries want to let you taste a perfectly cooked slice of local duck breast in a pinot reduction sauce with their pinot noir to really drive the point home. Eat wonderful food, then sip their wine, and you’re hooked! But not all pairings are equal. From ultra-premium chef-guided explorations to “fridge food” that’s served complementary, there’s a food and wine pairing for even a beans and rice budget.
Here are some of our favorites in order of price…
Pinkies Up $75+: Chalk Hill Vineyards
A culinary tour of this extensive property begins by wandering through the kitchen gardens (1.5 acres), perusing the panoramic vineyards and being whisked into the Pavillion, an uber-exclusive conservatory overlooking the area’s most elaborate equestrian center. Chef Didier Ageorges (a former Ritz-Carlton chef in San Francisco) serves small plates with the luxe lineup of Chalk Hill wines. Based on seasonal ingredients, the three-course menus change up but expect dishes like a Thai Red Curry Soup with Tiger Prawns (Pinot Gris), Lobster Risotto with Tarragon Lobster Bisque (Chardonnay) or Pork Belly marinated in orange and ginger (Estate Red Blend) with dessert wines in the tasting room. Reservations required, 10300 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, 657-4837.
J Winery's Bubble Room
$65: J Vineyard and Winery’s Bubble Room
Food loves bubbles, especially when it comes to desserts and cheeses. Chef Mark Caldwell has free-reign over some of Sonoma County’s best bubbles and pinot noirs to find just the right seasonal dishes to bring out their best qualities. Exploring world cuisines, you can expect to find coconut butter squash soup (Russian River Chardonnay) and house-made gnocchi (Pinot Gris) along side pork belly (pinot noir) and trifle of roasted pumpkin and vanilla bean creme fraiche (Brut Rose). Menus change up seasonally. A truly luxurious way to spend an afternoon to taste through J’s inspired still and sparkling wines. Seatings Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 11, 12, 2 and 3pm. Reservations: 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 431-5430.
$35: St. Francis Winery
Artisan Winemaker Heather Munden is as serious about her homemade pancetta as she is her pinot noir. Her chef background makes for a picky palate and food-friendly wines. Working with Munden, Winery Chef David Bush culls the best produce from the Sonoma Valley winery’s two-acre garden, taking inspiration from whatever’s in season, serving multi-course small plates that rival the kitchen of any Michelin-starred restaurant. Expect to find jewel-like presentations of steamed sea bass with fermented black beans, soba and bacon lardons (with a 2007 Malbec), seared duck breast with fired rice and a poached quail egg on a pool of red curry (2007 Malbec) or a torta Cubana with taco truck-inspired homemade chorizo, fire roasted salsa and smoked paprika fromage blanc (2007 Cabernet Franc). Four courses at a communal table that looks onto the picturesque vineyards. A mix of luxury and casual companionship, this is the Valley’s best bet. Reservations required, Friday-Sunday at 11am, 1 and 3pm, Monday and Tuesday at 11am and 2pm. 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, 833-2148.
$35: Mayo Family Winery Reserve Room
One of the original wine and food pairing spots in Sonoma Valley, Mayo offers a 7-course tasting with their reserve wines. Reservations suggested: 9200 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 833-5504.
Kendall Jackson
$30: Kendall Jackson Wine Center
KJ Chef Justin Wangler isn’t just a good winery chef, he’s a great chef, period. With access to Kendall Jackson’s own extensive kitchen gardens, local meat purveyors and in-house pastry and bread bakers, the modestly-priced Reserve Food and Wine Pairing is one of Wine Country’s best values. Focused on the winery’s small-production, limited-release wines, it’s a seven-course tasting that starts with seasonal bites including (this fall) Lobster-pumpkin bisque (Chardonnay), buckwheat crepes with prosciutto (Riesling), a sweet tea brined pork belly slider (Syrah), Cabernet braised short rips with stone ground grits (Cabernet), Spiced Carrot Cake with Ginger Foam (late harvest Riesling) and KJ’s famous Mama Frischkorn’s Caramel Corn (late harvest Chardonnay) — caramel corn so good you’ll be begging for the recipe (which Wangler will happily give you). Daily with an appointment, 5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa, 576-3810.
Pinkies Down $15 White Wine Flight, $20 Red: Thumbprint Cellars
No reservation needed for red or white wine flights at this casual Healdsburg wine tasting room. Different chefs are featured each month (most recently it’s been Chef Garrett Adair), bringing their A-game to the tasting menus. The White Flight (Riesling, viognier, rose) comes with an artisanal cheese plate, flatbread, fruit and organic honey. The Red Flight includes Red Wine Blends with (this month) a Mediterranean meatball, bitter green salad with black truffle vinaigrette and pickled mushrooms and pork belly and beans. Vegetarian options available. 102 Matheson St., Healdsburg, CA 95448. Open daily 11am to 6pm, Fri & Sat 11am to 7pm.
$5-$10, Portalupi Winery Tasting Room
We thought it was a joke when someone told us this Healdsburg tasting room served Cheetos, Pringles and Cheezits with their wine. Really? But low-brow meets high-brow in this casual tasting room where, according to tasting room server Nicholas Amtower, “Super premium wine doesn’t come with pretentiousness.” The staff decided to have a little fun with their wine pairings by serving up rec room staples because, according to Amtower, “You got cheese, you got salt, and that makes for a great wine pairing.” So what works best? Pringles are best with the Bianco and Russian River Pinot. The Cheetos and Cheezits are reserved for the big reds. We say purple teeth and orange fingers are the new look for fall. 107 North St., Healdsburg, 395-0960. Open daily 10:30am to 7pm.
Free: Williamson Winery
Only a couple of Australians would have the nerve to open a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg and not charge a tasting fee. What they know, however, is that once you’ve sat down for one of their famous wine and food pairings — featuring what owners Dawn and Bill Williamson call “fridge foods”, you’ll likely be hooked. With one of the most avid Wine Clubs around, food is a big part of the Williamson tasting experience. Chefs Patty Schroeder and Todd Muir (with some insight from Dawn), have created simple, yet wonderful mini bites of curried cashews (Viognier), tri tip with mustard (Red blend) and brownie bites (Merlot) or honey and blue cheese (Cabernet Sauvignon) on the complementary menu. Reserve tastings ($25 to $40) include a sit-down tasting, and more extensive bites from the chefs. Reservations are strongly recommended, since the tasting room can get crowded, 134 Matheson Street, Healdsburg, 433-1500.
What are some of your favorite spots for wine pairings?
Just a week into Top Chef Season 9, more than a dozen contestants have been unceremoniously chopped in Austin. From a pool of nearly 1,000 candidates, a record 29 chefs appeared on the season’s premiere, vying for the final 16 spots. Among them, two chefs with Sonoma County connections: Former Carneros Bistro Chef Janine Falvo and Chicago Chef Chuy Valencia who grew up in Santa Rosa.
Falvo hit the “bubble” — a sort of purgatory — early in the show and never made it forward (she opined it was for a lack of visible tattoos, which she attempted to rectify with a purple Sharpie to the forearm). But Valencia seems to be a serious contender after sailing through Round 1.
The owner of Chilam Balam, a Mexican restaurant in downtown Chicago, his saucy small plates have garnered critical acclaim and a nod on Guy Fieri’s Diner’s Drive Ins and Dives). But the Santa Rosa High School grad grew up inspired by his mom, Leticia’s homestyle cooking. And his dad’s barbecuing.
“He used to get his hand in everything. He’d put his hands on the spices and put a little bit of this, that in everything. He was always watching me and his mother,” said Jesus Valencia, Chuy’s father, who lives in Santa Rosa. As a child, Chuy divided his time between Santa Rosa and Colima, Mexico where his grandfather had a family orchard and was a butcher by trade. He was always interested in food and all the good things to eat on the farm,” said Jesus.
Chuy’s favorite foods? “Anything with meat. I got him hooked on barbecue. The staple was meat, he’d eat steak and eggs or chilaquiles in the morning,” said Valencia. Another favorite: Cecina, a sort of Mexican beef jerky. When he’s home, Jesus said a favorite restaurant is Sonoma’s Girl and the Fig. Raised in Sonoma County with parents who grew food in their own backyard and always had some good to eat on the stove, he’s brought much of that influence to his Chicago eatery, supporting sustainable local ranchers and farmers.
So does dad know the outcome of the season? “I tried to ask him. But he can get into a heap of trouble if he says anything until the competition is over. I know he can’t divulge anything, but I wish he would,” said Valencia. Either way, Jesus and wife Leticia said they’re already proud of Chuy. “The competition is really good this season. They interviewed like 1,000 chefs, and he got his chef jacket. I hope he goes all the way, but i’m proud already. Anything else is icing on the cake.”
Watch Top Chef at 8pm and 10pm on Bravo each Wednesday Night.
As the weather cools, the leaves turn, and the nights lengthen, it’s definitely time for hearty dishes and rich flavors. On November 12, 2011 Chef John Ash leading a class featuring seasonal wild foods. He’ll talk about wild mushrooms (did you know that Northern California has the largest variety of wild mushrooms in the world?), prepare wild game (John’s first cookbook was American Game Cooking), and sustainable seafood (John is on the board of advisers for Seafood Watch). Lambert Bridge wines will be served throughout the meal.
On the menu:
• Wild Mushroom Hunters Soup OR Wild Mushrooms in Parchment Beggar’s Purses
• Grilled Salmon with Green Goddess Dressing
• Loin of Venison with Blackberry Sage Sauce
• Roasted Fall Vegetables
• Pan-Roasted Pears with Candy Cap Mushroom Custard Sauce
Enjoy Lambert Bridge wines in the barrel room. Reservations @ Relish Culinary 707.431.9999. $145pp
Food/Political documentary, Farmageddon looks into the plight of American family farms and issues of access to safe, healthy food. Lots of foodies are talking about this one…in fact, it was a big buzz at the Saturday market this weekend. Upcoming viewing at the Seedbank in Petaluma. Expect lots of passionate food talk.
The Sonoma County Chapter of the FOOD RIGHTS COALITION will host a free screening of “Farmageddon” Thursday, November 10th at 6:30 p.m.at The Seed Bank, 199 Petaluma Blvd. North in Petaluma. This documentary is a must see for anyone who is an advocate of local food systems, small family farms, and raw milk, and for those who believe it is their right to grow and consume their own food.
The film reveals what is happening to small family farms across the country and exposes the reasons why many farmers farm “in hiding” so as not to be harassed by the FDA. It includes many familiar big names in local food advocacy such as Joel Salatin (of Polyface Farm), Sally Fallon (founder of the Weston A Price Foundation and author of Nourishing Traditions), and Jessica Prentice (of Three Stone Hearth and author of Full Moon Feast).
Following the movie there will be a brief update on what is happening here in California with the California Department of Food and Agriculture as well as a question and answer period.
The FOOD RIGHTS COALITION is a group of small farmers and allies in California that has recently come together in light of Cease and Desist letters being handed out to herdshares here in California (herdshares are groups of people who own livestock together and hire a farmer to care for and milk the animals so that they may receive the raw milk from their herd).
Thursday afternoon sushi with Hana Japanese’s Ken Tominaga has been extended through November at Healdsburg’s Shimo Modern Steak. If you missed it in October, head up north from 5-9pm to get your sushi fix. Wallet conscious? Chef/owner Douglas Keane says rolls run around $10, his ramen starts at about $7 and bar snacks are only a couple bucks. Who knew?
Everything’s better with butter. Spread yourself some love at Epicurean Connection’s new Butter Bar, a don’t-count-the-calories snack that includes infused local cow and goat butters with both sweet and savory flavors like Rose Petal, Blue Cheese Butter, Honey Butter, made with Sonoma Valley Honey and Sage Lemon Butter.
Owner Sheana Davis, who recently moved her Sonoma shop lock, stock and barrel just off the Sonoma Square features Flights for $9.95 with fresh Cousteaux bread and a slice of fruit or olives. She’s constantly coming up with new flavors to try, and you can take home some of your own in her dairy case (as well as great local cheeses, vinegars, pastas and other stuff you won’t find anywhere else). Butter-licious!
Epicurean Connection: 112 West Napa Street, Sonoma.
Chef Douglas Keane has confirmed that Shimo is, in fact, closed.
