Ozzie’s Grill Reopens

Behemoth burgers and power scarfing at this classic American grill

You know you’re in the presence of an epic burger when your hungry teenager gives up in defeat halfway through. Clue two: You can’t open your mouth wide enough to stuff in the double-patty behemoth before you.

Some call it parental bonding. We call it family power-scarfing. Either way, the burgers are better than ever at the newly re-opened Ozzie’s Grill (799 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa, 538-07775).

The thirty-year old neighborhood grill closed in November, changing hands to two former fans, Scott Diaz and Andrew Simontacchi in January. After a interior rehab (it also looks and smells better than ever), they’ve brought back the old-school vibe and improved on the menu.

Best bet: The Ozzie’s Ultimate Burger ($10.75) that’s a kitchen sink of a meal with two patties, bacon, pepper jack and cheddar cheeses, jalapenos, avocado and onions. All on a sesame seed bun.

We call fail, however, at the crumbly buns that all but dissolve at the prospect of holding together so much meaty goodness. A two-napkin burger becomes a five-napkin lap-hazard.

Less hearty appetites can go for smaller versions with everything from mushrooms to ortega chilis. Also on the menu are seven hot dogs variations (chili cheese, bacon, corn), along with fish and chips, and classic sandwiches like the Rueben, chicken club, tuna melt and BLT. Crinkle fries — long an Ozzie’s staple — harken back to fond lunchroom memories. A chocolate malt, made with real ice cream, is big enough to share with your steady. Or your kid. Either way.

What’s old is new again at Ozzies. Just bring a few extra napkins, a hearty appetite and a few teenagers to eat your leftovers.

Ozzie’s Grill, 799 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa, 538-0775.