Sovandy Kien and her husband, Nouly Chhem, fell in love over food — pork fried rice, to be specific.
As young sweethearts in Cambodia, Chhem won over Kien with his repertoire of recipes. A self-taught cook, he had a knack for making friends through food, but it was a simple stir-fry of rice, soy sauce, vegetables and pork that stole Kien’s heart.
Her dream of opening a restaurant and his love of cooking aligned like stars. But when her family moved to Northern California eight years ago, he continued a cooking career in Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Korea.
It would be nearly a decade before the couple opened their first American restaurant with the help of Kien’s sister, Kanha.
A dream realized
In late May, Kien and Chhem opened VN Flavor in a quiet corner of Raley’s Towne Center in Rohnert Park. A rotating cast of restaurants have occupied the space over the last five years, including an Asian bistro, a burger café and a bagel bakery.
VN Flavor might have escaped my notice if Press Democrat business reporter Melanie Nguyen hadn’t discovered that Kien’s sister Khana owns popular Savor Vietnamese Bistro in Santa Rosa and Windsor.
That led to more questions. Why would the Kien sisters open competing restaurants with similar menus?
The answer is simple, said Kien with a broad smile. After several years working at Savor, Kanha encouraged the couple to open their own restaurant in Rohnert Park, even helping fund the dream.
“I kept saying we weren’t ready,” said Kien. “But my husband said, ‘Trust me. I want to show people what I have.’”
A place of their own
The restaurant kitchen, with its noise and heat, is tucked away in the back, where Chhem reigns over pots of broth and a fiery grill. His garde manger is stocked with crushed peanuts, fragrant basil, limes, pickled carrots, cilantro and bean sprouts that garnish his flavor-packed dishes.
“When I’m cooking, I’m always thinking about my customers. I need to make it beautiful,” Chhem said. And it is.
But the L-shaped dining room has always been at odds with its function. The narrow seating area and spacious foyer work well for takeout, but previously felt disjointed for dining in. Kien has bridged that gap by personally bringing the steaming bowls of pho, crisp banh mi and sizzling short ribs to each table — creating a more connected experience.
“I just want to see this keep growing,” she said. “I hope we can open another (restaurant), maybe some day in Petaluma. But for us, it isn’t about the money. We really care about every customer.”
Best bets
Beef Combination Pho, $18: A long-simmered beef bone broth makes up the base for this hearty pho, filled with rice noodles, flank steak, brisket, meatballs and tripe. I’ve always shied away from beef pho due to its sometimes overpowering “cow” flavor, but Chhem’s clear, clean broth is soul-satisfying with its gentle fragrance and warm spices. The meat isn’t overly fatty, and the tripe has a satisfying chew without off flavors. I’m also a massive fan of the Wonton Egg Noodle Soup ($17), made with an 8-hour simmered chicken broth, pork-filled wontons and soft egg noodles.
Banh Mi, $13: The defining element of a great banh mi is the perfect baguette. Commercial soft rolls are too soft and crusty French baguettes are too hard. Kien bakes fresh mini baguettes every morning, with a gentle crisp crust and a pillow-soft interior that hits that Goldilocks zone. VN Flavor skips the traditional pâté on the baguette (which is a bummer, but not a deal-breaker), replacing it with a more American-friendly garlic mayo. The barbecue lemongrass pork is my favorite, but tofu, spicy pork, braised pork belly, crispy chicken and five-spice chicken are also available. Pickled carrots and daikon elevate this from a simple sando to a top-notch Vietnamese banh mi. Watch out for the sneaky jalapeños.
Korean BBQ Short Ribs, $22: At first, I ignored this entrée, but it turns out to be one of Chhem’s signature dishes. Thin flanken-style short ribs, cut across the bone, are marinated in a sweet-savory soy sauce and quickly flame-grilled. Crispy char and tender meat make this a finger-licking must-try.
Spicy Basil Fried Rice, $20: Spicy, wonderful fried rice that’s even better the next day. Like all fried rice.
House Special Vermicelli Noodle, $20: Cold rice noodles, shredded lettuce, barbecue pork, shrimp and a sliced egg roll doused in nuoc mam cham (a sweet, citrusy fish sauce) is my desert island meal. I could eat it every day and never tire of the sweet, sour, fatty, crispy, noodly wonder that is bún.
Vietnamese Desert, $9.95: Many Southeast Asian countries have a version of Chè Ba Màu, a refreshing drink made with crushed ice, coconut cream, lychee, brown sugar, daong, grass jelly, red beans and garbanzos. It’s not for everyone, but I love it (without the garbanzos).
VN Flavor is at 90 Raley’s Towne Center, Rohnert Park, 707-843-7585. No website; go to bit.ly/4laGOfq for online orders.
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.