You don’t have to be young and hip to hang out at Benevolent Neglect — but a certain cool factor just might rub off on you if you do. The loungey tasting room is a relaxed and welcoming spot for sampling interesting, well-made wines crafted from familiar and under-the-radar grape varieties.
The story
Benevolent Neglect was hatched by friends Ben Brenner and Matt Nagy. Nagy became curious about wine after taking an appreciation class in college, while Brenner’s wine trajectory began in restaurants. Both men moved from Boston to Napa in the 2010s to pursue wine careers, with Nagy on the production side and Brenner in hospitality.
Nagy learned his way around cellars and vineyards working with some of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed winemakers, including Thomas Rivers Brown and Steve Matthiasson of Matthiasson Wines. Brenner also worked harvest jobs with Matthiasson before switching over to hosting tastings.
Nagy and Brenner became friends after meeting at a house party, and in 2013, they launched Benevolent Neglect — named as a nod to their less-is-more approach to winemaking. After nearly a decade building a cult-like following for their wines, the duo opened a tasting room in downtown Napa.
Benevolent Neglect’s lineup includes wines made from traditional and uncommon varieties — tried any Greco Bianco lately? — sourced from interesting growers across the state. Annual production is around 2,500 cases. When he’s not making wines for Benevolent Neglect, Nagy also works as a winemaker at Ashes & Diamonds in Napa.
The vibe
Benevolent Neglect is set in Napa’s funky SoFi district. Opened in 2022, the tasting room has a groovy, 1970s look thanks to retro lounge seating and wood paneling.
With vinyl spinning — and sometimes skipping — on the turntable and album covers displayed on the walls, music from Miles Davis to Bob Seger sets the tone. There’s even a secret room hidden behind a bookcase, used for special dinners and tastings. Always up for a good time, the winery sometimes co-hosts wine-centric dance parties with neighbors Gamling & McDuck and Maison Fayard.
On the palate
Instead of offering set flights, Brenner likes to tailor tastings for individual visitors. Before pouring anything into your glass, he’ll often take a minute to ask about preferences. Are you into crisp whites? Whole-cluster Syrahs? Want to try Counoise? Brenner and Nagy don’t refer to their wines as “natural” — they do use some sulfur to prevent spoilage — yet the wines lean in that direction, stylistically. They’re generally bright and clean, with alcohol levels on the lower side.
The 2024 Cemetery Road Pinot Grigio ($40) is made from Lodi grapes fermented on the skins. The effect is subtle, producing a textured wine with stone fruit flavors. A tribute to Cru Beaujolais, the oh-so-raspberry 2023 Gamay Noir from Carneros ($50) is a carbonic red with tons of berry fruit and plenty of acidity. The juicy 2021 Grenache from Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino County ($65) is silky and delicious, with a touch of green stemminess to offset the red berry fruit.
Tastings are $45 for five to six wines. A tasting experience in the secret back room is $110 per person for parties of two or more.
Beyond the bottle
Word has gotten out about La Cheve Bakery and Brews in Napa, but it’s still worth waiting in line. Set inside the Cayetano Juárez Adobe building — built well over a century ago — the family-owned café is a terrific stop for scratch-made pastries, all-day Mexican-style brunch, flavorful tacos and tortas, housemade beer, and a wine list showcasing local Hispanic winemakers.
Benevolent Neglect, 1417 Second St., Napa. Open noon to 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. 707-241-3463, bnwines.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost, and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Bluesky @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com.