The bar for downtown Petaluma’s tasting room scene just got a little higher with the addition of Montagne Russe. Doubling as a record shop, the newly opened venue pours cool-climate Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay, plus Rhône-style selections under the winery’s Le Pöet-Laval side label.
The story
Kevin Bersofsky might still be a garage winemaker today if his neighbor hadn’t ratted him out to the feds. While working for Sutter Home Winery in 2006, Bersofsky started making his own wine at home in St. Helena. He started with a few barrels and gradually expanded production to more than a dozen. Then, in 2013, somebody squealed.
The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau quickly shut down Bersofsky’s illicit operation, forcing him to dump four precious barrels down the drain. (In my mind, the feds shoot the barrels with 1920s machine guns as red wine spurts from the bullet holes. It may or may not have actually gone down that way.) Bersofsky learned his lesson and went legit, officially founding Montagne Russe in 2015.
Taking its name from the French term for roller coaster — Bersofsky helped design one as an engineering undergraduate — Montagne Russe specializes in single-vineyard wines from the Petaluma Gap and other cool-climate regions. The winery buys fruit from local growers and makes the wines at Brooks Note just down the street. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah are flagships.
The vibe
After closing its Healdsburg tasting room at Bacchus Landing, Montagne Russe took over the Black Knight Vineyards space in Petaluma last month.
Walking into the sunny, open room, visitors are greeted with a giant roller coaster graphic that twists its way across the entire left-hand wall. Weeeee!
Tasters can settle into window seating facing Petaluma Boulevard, perch at high-top tables or grab stools at the white quartz tasting bar. The atmosphere is relaxed for both humans and pups; there’s even a basket of dog toys so furry ones can chew while their humans sip.
A small alcove at the back of the venue serves as a record emporium with thousands of albums for sale. (Bersofsky’s personal vinyl collection lives behind the bar — and yes, he does take requests.)
On the palate
Bersofsky is the chief financial officer at Folio Fine Wine Partners in his weekday gig, but he says he’s not a numbers guy in the vineyard. Grape-picking decisions are made according to taste, when the fruit achieves the right balance between flavor, sugar and acidity.
I could happily quaff the 2023 Le Pöet-Laval White Rhone Blend from Mendocino County ($35) all summer long. It’s crisp and lean, with appealing peachy aromas and flavors. The 2022 Montagne Russe Dragon’s Back Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($58) is a pretty, floral wine with aromas of raspberries and spice. The 2021 Alder Springs Syrah from Mendocino County ($55) is like sipping blackberry pancakes with a side of bacon. The wine is savory and structured, with a lush, long finish.
Tastings cost $35 (choose between Montagne Russe and Le Pöet-Laval flights). Mad scientist types can also book a “winemaker for a day” blending session for $100. Stay tuned in the coming months for “Vinyls & Vino” trivia events, movie nights and live music.
Beyond the bottle
Just across the street from Montagne Russe, Stellina Alimentari is the place to savor an Italian-style focaccia sandwich or made-to-order arancini. Italian house wines are typically just 10 bucks a glass, and there are lots of yummy pantry items and take-home bottles for sale.
Montagne Russe is open from noon to 6 p.m. Sunday through Monday and from noon to 8 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. 155 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 1-855-GO-RUSSE (1-855-467-8773), russewines.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.