There’s a good chance you’ve seen bottles of the California appellation Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red at local markets for well under 20 bucks. But there’s a more artisanal side to this 47-year-old Geyserville-based winery, showcased at Marietta’s first-ever tasting room in downtown Healdsburg.
The story
Marietta Cellars got its start in 1978, when Chris Bilbro founded the Dry Creek Valley winery and named it for his favorite aunt. Initially buying fruit from local growers, he built a reputation for making solid, affordable wines with integrity — including Marietta’s famous $19 red. Bilbro’s sons, Scot, Jake and Sam, grew up in the family business, so it was no surprise that all three found careers in the wine world. In 2012, Scot and Jake bought Marietta Cellars from their dad, and Sam founded Idlewild Wines. Now, as Marietta’s sole owner and winemaker, Scot Bilbro is adding exciting new dimensions to the business.
Farming 200 acres of vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties, the winery makes about 35,000 cases per year, with small-lot wines reserved for the tasting room. Wines feature an intriguing array of varieties, including Zinfandel, Riesling and Trousseau.
The vibe
Scot Bilbro and his wife, Lisa Steinkamp, opened the tasting room in late October just off the Healdsburg Plaza. The site was formerly a police station — the old holding cell is now Marietta’s bathroom — and, more recently, the tasting room for Roadhouse Winery.
Steinkamp is an architectural designer and it shows in the bright, contemporary space. (One of her sketches hangs on the wall and her lovely watercolor paintings appear on Marietta’s wine labels.) All of the design choices are thoughtful and intentional, from the French marble hutch behind the bar to the wooden branch sculpture that hangs from the ceiling. Even the spittoons are custom-made by a local ceramicist — a former Buddhist monk.
Seating includes a velvet banquette with marble-topped tables and a couple of bar seats. There’s also a sweet patio out front, with tables set under some leafy trees. The winery doesn’t currently offer food, but you can order from Acorn Café and have it brought over (Marietta shares a back door with the restaurant). Wines are available by the flight, glass and bottle, so visitors are welcome to stick around and relax. If you’re a dog person, as I am, you’ll enjoy meeting the couple’s bouncy pup, Harry.
On the palate
Although Marietta has some higher-production wines in distribution across the country, you won’t find them here. This is a chance to taste Bilbro’s small-lot wines, which he describes as both personal and emotional.
The tasting room offers two different flights for $35 each. The Place sampling features single-estate wines made in a more traditional style. The Presence tasting highlights Marietta’s “Etta” series of playful, esoteric wines. All selections are made with neutral oak, which highlights the purity of the fruit and adds texture.
The Etta 2023 Gris ($42) immediately hooked me with its pale, coppery color. A blend of Grenache and Trousseau, the wine has peachy hints and a nice balance of acidity and body. I loved the Nadi 2022 Wirz Vineyard Dry Riesling from Cienega Valley ($38) for its golden color, stone-fruit aroma and racy energy. The 2022 Gibson Block Red from McDowell Valley ($58) is made from Syrah vines planted in 1918, along with Grenache, Petite Sirah and Alicante. Its deep color, structure and dark fruit flavors call out for a pan-seared steak.
Beyond the bottle
To keep the laid-back, artsy vibe going, catch a movie at the new True West Film Center. The three-screen theater showcases “art house” flicks and new releases, offering big, comfy seats and — in true Healdsburg fashion — a sommelier-designed selection of wines from the Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys. Moviegoers can also preorder food from Acorn Café, El Milagro, Journeyman Meat Co., Lo & Behold and Troubadour.
Marietta Cellars is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. 250 Center St., Healdsburg. 707-433-2747, mariettacellars.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.