It took Michelle Wood nearly two years to reopen the former Jimtown Store after purchasing the Alexander Valley property in 2023. Nestled along a quiet stretch of Highway 128, the 132-year-old general store has been a gourmet pit stop for meandering cyclists, curious tourists and vineyard workers for decades. Its weathered plank walls, well-worn wood floors and shady front porch have graced countless Instagram feeds.
In early June, Wood debuted Jimtown & Then Sum, merging her longtime dim sum catering business with the Jimtown legacy. Fans of her handmade dumplings eagerly anticipated shu mai, potstickers and bao at the new location.
But when the doors opened, there was no dim sum at Jimtown & Then Sum.
The daily process of folding, filling and steaming dumplings proved too demanding in the early days of operation. But three weeks after this month’s grand opening — with the new business running smoothly — they are now on the menu.
From 11 a.m., the lunch menu features a section dedicated to steamed dumplings, spring rolls, bao buns and a poke bowl, served until sold out, which typically happens within a few hours. The menu also includes a barbecue pork banh mi sandwich and matcha cheesecake bites with honey and ginger.
Traditional deli sandwiches, including Italian subs, muffulettas and chicken curry, are also available, along with morning pastries and cookies.
On a recent Friday during the lunch rush, customers hovered over Wood’s Asian-inspired menu with curiosity. The most frequent question: “What’s an open-faced steamed bao?” (It’s a fluffy, sweet cousin to the taco.)
By 11:45 a.m., Wood was busy steaming dumplings as the dim sum orders began streaming in.
Standout dishes include her signature shu mai ($14 for six), filled with seasoned pork and shrimp; potstickers ($17 for six), stuffed with vegetables, chicken, or kimchi and tofu; and the open-faced steamed bao ($15), topped with braised pork belly or tofu and finished with hoisin sauce.
There’s also Vietnamese-style spring rolls with rice noodles, Thai basil and shrimp, served with sweet chili or peanut sauce ($14 for three), or veggie-only rolls ($12 for three). A poke bowl with seasoned ahi tuna over sticky rice is $23.
But it’s the pillowy barbecue pork bao buns ($6 each) that make me weak in the knees. Light, squishy and slightly sweet, they’ve got all the starchy satisfaction of Wonder bread, only better. Other fillings include Thai basil chicken, or broccoli and tofu.
Early birds and morning bicyclists will find pastries like apple-cinnamon coffee cake, muffins and scones, along with avocado toast, a breakfast burrito and coffee drinks.
But it’s Wood’s dim sum I’m coming for — finally.
Jimtown & Then Sum, 6706 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-756-5022, jimtown.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.