Our official state vegetable, the artichoke, was first planted by Italian immigrants in the 19th century. The thorny thistle is celebrated in Monterey County, where it is widely grown, with artichoke-themed cafes, roadside statues and an annual spring festival.
In Sonoma County, artichokes can be found at local farmers markets through late spring, primarily sourced from small farming operations at the coast. According to Joe Imwalle of Santa Rosa’s Imwalle Gardens, it’s too warm further inland for good growth — the spiky plants prefer the foggy, cool influence of the Pacific.
Green Globe artichokes are heavy, firm, and meaty, with an earthy flavor that blossoms in spring dishes. Newer thornless varieties aren’t as meaty and flavorful, say artichoke aficionados. Vintage favorite Green Globes are becoming available once again in many local supermarkets, including at Oliver’s Markets, coming direct from one of two commercial California farms. They’re delicious in this chunky, textured spring tapenade, whether spooned over grilled chicken or fresh goat cheese, or served simply atop thick slices of toast.
Artichoke & Olive Tapenade
Makes about 2 ¼ cups
3 large fresh Green Globe artichokes
2 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
3 tsp. olive oil
3 garlic cloves
2 tsp. green peppercorns in brine, drained
1 tsp. minced lemon zest
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup (6 ounces) fresh green olives, such as picholine, pitted and minced
¼ cup (2 ounces) walnut pieces, toasted and minced
1 tbsp. Italian parsley, chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
Rustic bread, sliced and toasted, for serving
Using a sharp knife, cut the stems of the artichokes straight across. Set the artichokes on their sides and cut about ½ inch off the top.
Drizzle about a teaspoon of olive oil into the center of each artichoke.
Put the artichokes into a saucepan that holds them snugly. Add enough water to come up to the top of the artichokes. Add kosher salt to the water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water boils, reduce the heat, and cover the pan. If the artichokes do not stay submerged, set a separate, small lid inside the pan on top of them and then cover the pan.
After 20 minutes, test the artichokes for doneness by using tongs to wiggle a few leaves.
If there is no give, cook for another 5 minutes and test again. The artichokes will be perfectly cooked when leaves come off with just a tad of resistance, from 20 to 40 minutes, depending on age and size.
Meanwhile, grind the garlic to a paste using a mortar and pestle. Add the green peppercorns, lemon zest and juice, and extra-virgin olive oil, and mix, scraping the sides of the bowl to combine well. Set aside.
Transfer the artichokes to a colander, rinse with cool water and drain thoroughly. When cool, remove the leaves to enjoy separately. Use a grapefruit spoon or sharp paring knife to remove the choke from each heart. Discard the chokes and cut the hearts into ¼-inch dice.
In a medium bowl, combine the diced artichoke hearts, olives, walnuts and olive oil mixture.
Add the chopped parsley and several turns of black pepper. Taste and season with salt, as needed. Let rest 30 minutes before serving atop thick slices of toast.