Everything but the squeal
Okay, word on the street is that when it comes to food trends, salumi has officially jumped the shark. Along with artisan bacon and, well, anything pig related. I say phooey.
Like the little black dress, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Chanel No. 5, pork is a timeless classic.
Settling in for the long, porcine haul are the John and Duskie at Zazu. Long committed to the craft of curing, the couple will host a Whole Hog Supper on Sunday, January 20. Featuring just about everything but the squeal, this is serious nose-to-tail eating. The menu goes something like this: Black Pig Salumi with pickled grapes; Hog’s Head Soup with faro and soffritto, Cuoro di Lambrusco (pig heart cooked in red sparkling Lambrusco wine), roasted pork shoulder with mashed potatoes and citrus pound cake with bay leaf gelato. Mmmm.
(Preaching to the choir alert) I’ve become a fan of rustic cuts (admittedly in principle, more than in practice–pork cheeks, ears and skulls are impossible to find retail). If you’re going to eat meat, you darned well better understand that it doesn’t originate in a plastic-wrapped container. Being a carnivore is a brutal business, admittedly. So the least we can do is appreciate as much of the animal–in this case humanely raised, well-tended creatures–as possible. Nose to tail. Call 707.523.4814 to reserve your spot. $70 per person, not including gratuity or tax.
New blood at West County Grill
I’ve heard a lot of grumbling about what was originally touted as the second coming of Alice–or something–over in Sebastopol. My take: The West Country Grill has never quite lived up to the hype. Gossip round the food community is that the souls of the Waters proteges–Jonathan Waxman and Co.–who opened the restaurant seem to be lacking. In any case, a new GM, Louisiana native Terrell Brunet, has taken over head honcho duties. After Katrina, Terrell relocated to SF and has been working in Bay Area bistros. Salvation? We’ll see.