Quiet Sebastopol is quickly becoming one of the hottest food scenes in the North Bay. A new generation of chefs is making its mark in the small town, long resistant to change, while seasoned restaurateurs are finding eager new audiences, making it one of Sonoma County’s most interesting dining destinations.
As a new west county resident, I’ve eaten at nearly every restaurant in town and have been largely impressed. Sebastopolians have strong opinions about fresh ingredients and expect restaurateurs to consider vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and organic options, and they aren’t afraid to make their preferences known. Here are a few of my Sebastopol favorites.
Portico
Fresh pasta, made daily, is a signature of this Italian-owned trattoria. Menu highlights include cacio e pepe, Bolognese pappardelle with saffron cream and the famous 12-layer lasagna. Don’t miss the tiramisu for dessert. 110 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com
La Bodega Kitchen
For 16 years, Bryan Cooper and Meekk Shelef have run their low-slung Sebastopol roadhouse, which they insist isn’t a restaurant. The space functions as a bottle shop, a kind of social club and something like a lived-in family dining room — rearranged for a gathering that feels both impromptu and familiar. There are banquettes and sturdy wooden tables that shift around to accommodate parties large and small, and no one seems in a rush to turn anything over. The entirely vegetarian menu is unique, even for Sebastopol. 2295 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-1832, sonomawineshop.com
Viva Mexicana
By day, it’s a Mexican restaurant with the usual burritos, tacos and quesadillas alongside a wide range of gluten-free and plant-based options. But from 4-8 p.m. daily, the dining room shifts into a pop-up Persian café, drawing deeply from owner Sima Mohamadian’s roots — and from her mother’s recipe box. 841 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol. 707-823-5555, vivamexicana.com
Fern Bar
A vibey lounge and restaurant with craft cocktails and shareable plates. It’s a favorite summer spot for sitting outside and people-watching and equally ideal for a cozy winter supper with friends. 6780 Depot St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9603, fernbar.com
Handline
Sustainable seafood, tacos and great burgers in the coastal California tradition. Family-friendly and fast casual with outdoor and indoor dining. Handmade corn tortillas, excellent al pastor, soft serve and fresh daily produce specials that impress. 935 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com
Acre Pizza
Detroit pizza is always a winner, with a deep, crispy crust and melted cheese, but you can’t go wrong with any of the pies. Get a side of housemade ranch dressing for a chef’s kiss experience because here you won’t get side-eye for dipping. 6761 McKinley St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, 707-827-3455, acrepizza.com
The Redwood
Natural wine is the focus of this casual wine bar, but the kitchen shines with creative riffs on Mediterranean classics, seasonal plates and current specialties. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com
Goldfinch
Chef Rodrigo Mendoza’s (formerly of Willi’s Seafood and Charro Negro) dishes are organized into bites, small shareable plates and large shareable plates. There is a full bar and great cocktails. 119 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-9882, goldfinchsebastopol.com
Ramen Gaijin
Sonoma County’s required ramen spot, but there’s more to love on this menu. The izakaya and donburi selections include sashimi, fried chicken (karaage), bao buns and gyoza. Super-fresh, seasonal salads shouldn’t be overlooked. Plus, a full bar. 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-827-3609, ramengaijin.com
A&M BBQ
Arguably Sonoma County’s best barbecue, brisket, pulled pork and beef ribs are a must-order. Outstanding sides include collard greens, honey cornbread and potato salad. Brisket nachos with Carolina Gold sauce are a signature dish. Leave room for banana pudding. 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-1315, ambbqllc.com
Sushi Kosho
Top quality, affordable donburi and poke bowls for lunch and the county’s top sushi (my tippy top fave) and excellent Japanese izakaya. 6750 McKinley St. (at The Barlow), Sebastopol, 707-827-6373, koshosushi.com
Americana
A second outpost of Santa Rosa’s favorite breakfast (served all day) and lunch cafe. Everything on the menu is sustainably sourced from local farms and ranchers. But this isn’t fussy food, it’s classic American favorites like burgers, milkshakes, fried chicken and onion rings. You can snooze away the morning and still get biscuits and country gravy, omelets and huevos rancheros until 3 p.m. 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3309, americanasonomacounty.com
Khom Loi
Authentically inspired Thai cuisine from the Ramen Gaijin team. The indoor-outdoor space pays homage to the cuisine of Chiang Mai and nearby Laos, with nods to central and southern Thailand. There’s nothing shy or demure about the spicy, sweet, sour and bitter flavors of East Asia in every one of the dishes. 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-329-6917, khomloisonoma.com
Psychic Pie
Roman-style slices are cut to order and weighed to determine the price, so you can have small tastes of several or a large piece all to yourself. You’ll find seasonal, farm-fresh toppings like chevre with fresh lemon and herbs; potato with chile oil, mozzarella and crème fraîche; or hot coppa with Estero Gold cheese, mozzarella and hot honey. Traditionalists fear not — pepperoni and plain cheese are always on the menu. 980 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-6032, psychicpie.com
Lunch Box
Their signature Burger Harn is a messy, smushy, everything-that’s-good-about-beef masterpiece you rarely find. Paired with “dirty fries” (crispy fries, chevre ranch dressing, bacon, green onion, roasted garlic and pepperoncini), you’ll need a handful of napkins and a stout appetite. Menu additions include chicken Parmesan sandwiches and meaty hoagies. 128 N. Main St., Sebastopol, lunchboxsonomacounty.com
Inca’s Peruvian Cuisine
Inspired versions of the fine cuisine of Peru. The kitchen uses authentic ingredients and techniques but isn’t bound by tradition. 799 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-861-9057, incasrestaurant.net
Osito Style Tacos
Street tacos, burritos, tortas and bowls in a casual outdoor setting. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 140, Sebastopol, 707-494-1416, ositostyletacos.com
Muir’s Tea Room
A bright and cheery tea room with finger sandwiches, scones, soup and salads. The menu is entirely plant-based. 330 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-634-6143, muirstearoomandcafe.com
Sarmentine Bakery
A Barlow outpost of a favorite Santa Rosa patisserie. Caneles, croissants and baguettes are winners, but eclairs always steal the show. 6760 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-623-9595, sarmentine.com
Patisserie Angelica
This luxe French bakery does everything from gasp-worthy wedding cakes and high tea to galettes, macarons and flaky croissants. You’re guaranteed not to leave this charming cafe empty-handed. 6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol, 707-827-7998, patisserieangelica.com
