You know that funky little bistro with just enough urban cred to be cool, but stuck far enough out in the boondocks to keep away the the riff-raff? Yeah, that’s Underwood Bar & Bistro.

A perennial favorite of night owls and winemakers, it’s a meet and eat rendezvous in the tiny hamlet of Graton.

Underwood serves up perfect tapas (tuna tartare, cauliflower gratin, french onion soup, harissa fries, ceviche tostada), oysters and cocktails (don’t miss the Graton Sunrise) from lunch through late night as well as heartier entrees at dinner (steak frites, Moroccan lamb stew, duck breast, burgers).

9113 Graton Road, Graton, 823,7023.  Open for lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 to 2:30, dinner Tuesday through Sunday 5-10pm, and has a late nite menu on Friday and Saturday. Closed Monday.

Hungry for brunch: Head across the street to sister eatery, Willow Wood Market & Cafe.