Peach Cobbler at Terry's Southern Style Fish and BBQ. Photo from Facebook

Peach Cobbler at Terry’s Southern Style Fish and BBQ. Photo from Facebook

Back in 2005 I had a moment with the peach cobbler at Terry’s Southern Style Fish and BBQ.

This gritty barbecue spot along one of the grittier sections of Santa Rosa Ave. was a mecca of fall-of-the-bone ribs, hush puppies, catfish and Momma’s Boss Sauce, but it was the ridiculously uncomplicated plastic bowl of cooked peaches and sugared crust that made me fall hard. There was no fussiness with pedigreed peaches (I’m fairly sure they were canned), French butter or organic, fair trade sugar. Just a bear hug of warm, steaming deliciousness tossed ungracefully on the table with a side of bent silverware.

But then, like a bad boyfriend, Terry’s disappeared without so much as a goodbye. I dallied with other desserts, but it wasn’t the same.

Now, ten years later, a head-snapping sign along Hwy. 101 is heralding the barbecue restaurant’s triumphant return to Sonoma County. Huzzah!

Slated for an August opening in Rohnert Park, the revamped Terry’s has already put up hand-lettered signs in the windows for BBQ ribs and hot links along with Facebook promises of my old flame, peach cobbler.

Terry’s Southern Style Fish & BBQ coming this summer, 5979 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park.