Inside the narrow kitchen of Sebastopol’s Alesta restaurant, strips of blue painter’s tape cling to eye-level stainless-steel shelves, each carrying a handwritten reminder: “breathe,” “anyone can cook” — a nod to “Ratatouille” — and “sense of urgency.” But the one that means the most to co-owner Ugur Akkaya comes from another favorite film, “Toy Story.”
“To infinity and beyond,” Buzz Lightyear’s catchphrase, is scrawled across one strip.
“It means keep going to what is beyond. It’s the chase of perfection,” Akkaya said, pointing to the tape.
It is a mantra he loves, and one that captures the care he and chef Kadir Senel put into each dish.
That pursuit is reflected in a menu far more ambitious than the strip-mall setting might suggest. Alesta, which opened in mid-April in the former Piala space on the edge of downtown Sebastopol, is neither a gyro shop nor a grab-and-go deli. Instead, it is a small neighborhood restaurant where Akkaya and Senel draw on Turkish, Greek, Lebanese and Eastern European flavors filtered through French technique.
“We do this for the love of culture and cuisine, but in our own style,” Akkaya said.
Akkaya began cooking as a child, first learning to make a perfect pot of rice for his mother. Instead of college, he entered the restaurant world, learning on the job in San Diego and Sonoma County before teaming up with Senel, a longtime friend who operated a Mediterranean food truck in Santa Rosa.
Together, they opened Alesta with a larger menu that has since been pared back to keep the small kitchen running smoothly. What remains is the food they most enjoy eating, served with easy hospitality that includes complimentary cups of Turkish black tea.
The restaurant’s name means “ready” in Turkish, a call used by seafarers embarking on Mediterranean journeys. In Sebastopol, Akkaya and Senel seem less interested in arriving than in discovering how much farther they can go.
Best bets
Saganaki, $19: A quick burst of flame turns pan-fried cheese into tableside theater. The brandy burns off almost instantly, leaving behind a singed block of firm, mild cheese topped with figs and orange. Rich enough for two to share.
Branzino, $34: Fillets of mild, white-fleshed fish with crisp skin rest atop white beans in a pool of velouté, the classic French sauce enriched with butter and stock.
Assorted meze plate, $27: Small bowls of atom — whipped labneh with brown butter and Turkish peppers — sweet potato hummus and smoky baba ghanoush arrive with warm pita, fried olives and pickled vegetables. Enough for sharing, or a substantial lunch for one. Individual portions are available for $12.
Mediterranean salad, $14: Not the salad you expect. Red and yellow beets sit in honey yogurt and are topped with arugula, pickled onions and walnuts. We ordered a second. The Anatolian salad ($12), finished with pomegranate seeds, feta and walnuts, offers a refreshing summer alternative.
Moussaka, $32: One of the menu’s pricier dishes, this refined version layers eggplant, béchamel, beef Bolognese and potatoes beneath bubbling cheese. A ring of tomato sauce adds brightness and balance.
Mixed skewer plate, $31: A generous assortment of chicken, lamb and beef skewers served with rice, pita, tzatziki and greens. The meats are nicely charred while remaining juicy inside.
Also great
Karides, $19: Another signature dish, featuring oven-baked shrimp, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes, finished with a flambé.
Manti, $29: Fans of pelmeni and other Eastern European dumplings will appreciate these meat-filled pasta parcels topped with garlic yogurt and brown butter.
Alesta serves Turkish and California wines, beer, tea and soft drinks.
If you go: Alesta, 7233 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol; 707-329-6533, 707-519-4565, alestasoco.com. Reservations through OpenTable are recommended, particularly for dinner, though a handful of bar seats are reserved for walk-ins.