Napa is justifiably famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but in the region’s early days — before skyrocketing land prices made it practically impossible to justify growing grapes that didn’t command the highest prices — the valley’s offerings went far beyond the “king” and “queen” of noble grapes. Hendry Ranch offers a welcome taste of variety on a charming estate at the foot of Mt. Veeder, farmed by the same family for more than 85 years.
The story
Hendry Ranch got its start in 1939, when agronomy professor George W. Hendry bought a 200-acre property in Napa and moved there with his wife Margaret. When George died just five years later, Margaret took over managing the farm, growing plums, walnuts and grapes — all while raising their two children. Having grown up on the family ranch, their son George O. Hendry followed a somewhat unexpected career path: He became a designer of cyclotrons used in medical imaging. Any free time he had, he spent working on the farm.
By the early 1970s, with Napa’s wine industry on the rise, Hendry realized he could make more money selling wine grapes than he would bring in with prunes and walnuts. He replanted most of the ranch to grapes, starting with Zinfandel and Pinot Noir, and began selling the fruit to Robert Mondavi and Kent Rosenblum. He made his first wine in 1992 and built the winery eight years later.
Hendry — now in his 80s — still lives on the property, just a short walk from the winery. His nephew, Mike Hendry, manages the ranch’s 114 acres of vines, including many grape varieties you don’t often find in Cabernet-centric Napa these days, like Primitivo, Albariño and a tiny bit of Mission.
The vibe
Driving through residential Browns Valley, most people wouldn’t expect to find a vineyard estate. Look for the understated sign that marks the entrance to Hendry Ranch, then drive past George Hendry’s big white house to the brown tasting room building.
Wooden tables dot a large patio overlooking the vines, inviting guests to slow down and get comfortable. The bright and airy indoor space, decorated with warm wood accents and Hendry family artifacts, includes various rooms for seated tastings. Hendry often pops in to say hello, accompanied by Gracie, his sweet Chihuahua mix.
On the palate
Hendry grows a dozen grape varieties, so there’s a lot to explore. Albariño has recently become “a thing” in the U.S., but you won’t find many made in Napa Valley. George Hendry was way ahead of the curve, planting it on the ranch in 1997.
Hendry’s 2023 Albariño ($28) is a lively summer sipper with peachy notes. It’s fun to compare the 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay ($28) and 2023 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($40). The wines are made with the same grapes and share a tangy green apple profile, but the oak adds soft vanilla aromas and a creamy texture. A standout among the reds is the elegant 2021 Primitivo ($42) with its cherry-berry flavors.
Tastings range from $50 for a red wine flight to $75 for a mixed tasting to $100 for a flight of reserve wines. (All fees are waived with an equivalent wine purchase.) Because appointments are private affairs with an expert guide, the tasting lineups often vary according to guests’ interests. You might even get a quick lesson in grafting grape vines.
Beyond the bottle
I love a gourmet market, and locally owned Browns Valley Market is a neighborhood gem. It’s known for its meat section, so this is the place to grab steaks or a marinated tri-tip to pair with Hendry’s excellent Zinfandel or Cabernet Franc. The deli offers a terrific selection of grill-and-go panini to take along on a Wine Country picnic.
3104 Redwood Road, Napa, 707-226-8320. Tastings daily by appointment. hendrywines.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.