At the moment, it helps to be a visionary when you’re touring William Henpenn’s certified organic 7-acre Umbel Roots Farm, off Highway 37 in the Carneros. After leasing the long-fallow land in late 2023, he’s been working to build the Eden of his dreams, with towering hoop greenhouses, rows of field vegetables, young fruit trees, and tall mounds of beautiful compost and biochar warming in the sun.
Feeding the soil is critical for Henpenn’s work as a top-level produce provider for heavy hitters like SingleThread in Healdsburg, Quince in San Francisco, Street Social in Petaluma and Press in Napa. Each season, Henpenn develops his farming plan to accommodate chefs’ special requests — tender, maroon-hued Teagan lettuce, or earthy-sweet Beauregarde purple snow peas from Row 7 Seed Company, the line of heirloom seeds from chef Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
“Geeky chefs love these peas, because other kinds turn green when you cook them, but these stay purple. And bonus — your mouth turns purple, too,” he says, sticking out his tongue.
Such artisanal details power high-caliber menus, and Henpenn is always on the hunt for new or rare specialty ingredients he can grow. For example, chefs don’t just want artichokes, says Henpenn — they want crosnes, gnarly root vegetables that look a bit like a string of pearls, with a delightful crunch and nuttiness. At Henpenn’s farm, chefs can specify spring radishes that are either 12, 16 or 21 days old, depending on their needs.
Henpenn is unusually equipped to handle this level of request. As a young chef, he owned a series of restaurants in the Portland area, and has worked as a sommelier at Michelin-starred restaurants in New York. More recently, he’s pivoted to farming and food gardens, developing a farm at Donum Estate winery, planning gardens for tribal members at Graton Rancheria and overseeing extensive food gardens at the Sonoma home of chef Dominique Crenn.
“I’m so happy talking to the chefs. It makes me feel like I’m still in the kitchen,” he says. “I can speak their language and totally get their recipes. I’m not the weird farmer standing in the corner — I’m the guy that’s boisterous and tries to keep the staff interested.”
As his own utopia takes shape at Umbel Roots, Henpenn is developing skills for resiliency and nurturing endless other farming and food ideas. A self-taught builder, over the winter, he rebuilt several hoop houses after powerful winds from San Pablo Bay flattened them.
“Hiring help is expensive,” he says. “And stuff happens all the time, usually in the middle of the night. So I learned tractor repair; I build everything. That’s how this farm succeeds.”
Later this summer, he plans to open the farm for a few special events. A wide path running between tall dirt berms is being planted with eco-friendly dinners and pop-ups with his chef and winery associates. “These parties will not be to make money,” he says.
“These are to make friends and develop community, gathered around the pizza oven or the Santa Maria grill, and enjoying all this beautiful nature.”
Umbel Roots Farm, 3900 Sears Point Road, Petaluma, 707-339-0209, umbelroots.com