Pork Ramen at Shige Sushi in Cotati. photo heather irwin.

Pork Ramen at Shige Sushi in Cotati. photo heather irwin.

Ever since Doug Keane shuttered Shiso, the Northbay has suffered an appalling lack of decent ramen.

There is, of course, Hana Japanese (101 Golf Course Dr., Rohnert Park). But we’re talking casual, slurp at the table, take a doggy bag home kind of street ramen.

Alas, we’ve finally found it: Pork style.

Shige Sushi in Cotati is the absolute real deal. The tiny Japanese kitchen simmers pork bone, chicken and dashi stock over several days, concentrating the flavors into a cloudy, deeply pork-flavored broth. Slices of pork, a soft-boiled egg, strips of mushroom and green onions and chewy ramen noodles, served piping hot (with a dash or two of tobiko) make this a sinus-cleansing, soul-warming meal. Ramen isn’t available every day, so call ahead to make sure they’ve got it.

If not, you’re still covered. Shige’s sushi, sashimi and homestyle dishes (like karaage, or Japanese fried chicken) easily stand up to Rohnert Park’s Hana Japanese, Hiro in Petaluma and Bennett Valley’s Yao Kiku (Sam’s authentic dishes—which are often off menu—have made BiteClub’s head swim in the past).

8235 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, 795-9753. Open Tuesday through Friday, closed Monday