As the New Year rolls around, exploring sobriety or cutting down on alcohol is a common resolution for many. And anyone who follows wine industry news these days likely knows that, beyond “Dry January,” more people in the U.S. are drinking less alcohol, mainly by choice.
The trend to drink less has been most noticeable among young people. According to an August 2023 Gallup poll, 62% of adults under age 35 say they drink alcohol compared to 72% two decades ago, with many also saying they drink less frequently and are less likely to drink to excess. The moderate consumption lifestyle is gaining traction for health- and calorie-concerned consumers of all ages, too.
At the same time, wine is a way of life for many Californians, the wine producing capital of America. In response, bars, restaurants and drink manufacturers are accommodating with more no- or low-alcohol beverages that still taste (or at least look) like booze.
Historically, it’s true that finding satisfying nonalcoholic wine can have its challenges for traditional wine lovers. These wines are fermented and sometimes barrel aged, and even though a trace amount of alcohol can remain, it’s just a whisper residue of up to 0.5% alcohol by volume; sometimes less than in regular fruit juice. Without alcohol, wines can lose much of their aromatic compounds (that lovely bouquet on the nose) and lack enough tannins and textural compounds needed for robust structure.
More recently, however, state-of-the-art processes are helping nonalcoholic wines deliver a more authentic experience. The science behind that is long and complicated, but for anyone who is “sober curious,” it’s worth giving these newer brands a try.
Sovi
The Napa-based Sovi comes from the husband-and-wife team of Julia Littauer, a Certified Sommelier, and Alex Littauer, a DipWSET certified graduate of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Sovi grapes come from the Clarksburg appellation on the Sacramento River Delta, and wines are made with no additional sugars, sweeteners or natural or artificial flavors. Most of the nonalcoholic wines are blends, too, adding extra character.
You’ll find interesting varietals here in a lovely, dry style, including a crisp sparkling white blend of Chenin Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer; a floral sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir and Tempranillo; a light bodied blend of Pinot Noir, Tempranillo and Petite Sirah; and a playful, tropical Wild Child Pinot Gris orange wine.
For a cheeky touch, check out the canned wines, as well — a variety pack of sparklings is a good way to find your favorites. You can pick up the wines at multiple restaurants and shops around the Bay Area (check locations at “Find Us” on the website) or purchase online at drinksovi.com.
Bolle
The pleasingly dry sparkling Bolle Blanc de Blancs and Rosé are so sci-fi that the crafting technique is patent pending. Most simply, the wines are dealcoholized using a double column vacuum distillation technique, then given a second fermentation (like Champagne or Prosecco).
Made by Italian winemaker Roberto Vanin, the results are lively, crisp quaffs with fine bubbles, notable fruit aromatics — crisp apple, juicy pear, zesty citrus and a touch of toast for the Chardonnay-Silvaner Blanc, and strawberry, blackcurrant, violet, and a whisper of fresh herbs for the Chardonnay-Pinot Noir Rosé.
The 0.5% alcohol by volume (ABV) sips ring in at around 60 calories per glass, buoyed by no added sugars or added flavors. Find them at retailers like BeBubbly lounge in Napa, V Wine Cellar in Yountville and Oakville Grocery in Oakville. us.bolledrinks.com
Chateau Diana
Tom and Diane Manning founded this Healdsburg winery in 1981. The Mannings’ son and daughter, Corey and Dawn, have taken over the winery and adopted an entirely progressive approach with their “zero-proof” wines.
Rather than just a nod to the category, the family-owned operation produces two entire collections of zero-proof (0.5%) and low-alcohol (6%) selections. Sippers cover all the favorites, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, and red and white blends, with about half the calories of traditional bottlings.
The wines do tend to lean to sweeter notes — there’s even a Sun Bee California White Wine infused with real mango (70 calories per glass), and a sparkling Moscato that you can taste at the winery with a sidecar of cotton candy.
But lots of people like sweet wines, and for a light, refreshing change of pace, it’s relaxing to hang at the kid- and pet-friendly tasting estate in Dry Creek Valley. There are whimsical touches all around, including a nonalcoholic Sugar Cookie Slushy brimming with buttery vanilla notes and a hint of holiday spice, plus snacks like warm pretzel bites with nacho cheese dip, and various pizzas.
6195 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6993, chateaud.com