You don’t need a membership to join the Waterhawk Lake Club, but you might want to bring bird-watching binoculars and a designated driver.
Located on the edge of Roberts Lake in Rohnert Park, the former Bear Republic Brewing has become a destination-worthy restaurant for lazy afternoons of al fresco cocktails, loaded fries and soft-shell crab sandwiches. Or girl’s night cocktails by the firepit. Or family lunches at casual picnic tables.
It’s the something-for-everyone type of restaurant that Rohnert Park has long needed, and finally has.
Opened in late July by the team behind Petaluma’s Brewsters Beer Garden, the space has been refreshed with luxe outdoor picnic tables offering expansive lake views, a fully revamped interior, and a full bar with stunning cocktails from beverage director Cappy Sorentino.
“Brewsters is more of a traditional beer garden and Waterhawk is more of a lake club. Think Oktoberfest and beer steins versus yacht rock and Aperol spritzes,” said co-owner Mike Goebel.
Like Brewsters, the menu is well-crafted but not overly complicated. Executive chef Justin Deering delivers approachable dockside fare with enough cheffy flexes to make it interesting for foodies. Take his eggplant caponata ($13), a dish years in the making: a smoky puddle of baba ganoush topped with a sweet-sour Sicilian relish of eggplant, onions and capers, served with fluffy focaccia for dipping. It’s a menu favorite.
If you’re dining outdoors, keep an eye out for local fauna, including hawks, ducks, herons and geese.
“Waterhawk is our nod to all the wildlife living on, in and around the lake, particularly all the different bird species,” Goebel said.
The interior has large communal tables for groups or those seeking refuge from the sun, and there are bar seats both indoors and out.
And yes, for fans of Brewsters’ beloved “Miracle” holiday pop-up, there’s good news: Waterhawk will host its own version, complete with seasonal cocktails and kitchy decor. Perhaps Santa will come by rowboat, led by a team of blue gill.
For that, I’ll definitely need a cocktail.
Best bets
Charred summer corn ($12): Spears of sweet corn are charred, sliced from the cob and tossed with red peppers, arugula and corn purée. Don’t try using a fork and knife (I learned the hard way), just use your hands. A lovely taste of summer.
Loaded fries ($12): Shove off, asada fries — I’ve found my new meat and potato dream. A pile of thin, salty fries is topped with shredded roast pork and a mozzarella fondue. Forks recommended, but not necessary.
Kale salad ($17): Hear me out, because this cruciferous creation is more than just virtuous. Kale is merely the carrier for lemon, garlic, crispy quinoa and a show of shaved Parmesan. This salad might just turn you into a kale lover.
Soft-shell crab BLT ($20): This is a whopper of a dish that may need explanation to Dungeness fans, but is a favorite of chef Deering, a Maryland native. A small, whole crab (shell and all) is fried and sandwiched between peppered bacon, Little Gem lettuce, heirloom tomatoes and a soft bun. This East Coast delicacy is made with crabs that have recently shed their hard shells, making the whole creature soft and meaty. Don’t overthink it. Just eat.
Waterhawk burger ($19): Just a solid burger with the proper condiments — American cheese, bread and butter pickles and iceberg lettuce.
Caramelized flatbread ($22): Kind of like a pizza, but without the tomato sauce. The bubbly bread comes in two flavors – pancetta, chives and crème fraîche; or mushrooms and garlic with Teleme cheese.
Valley Ford Creamery soft serve ($8): The best soft serve in Sonoma County, hands down. Get it with olive oil and sea salt — cutting the sweetness and giving it a grassy bite.
Drinks to try
The Aperol Spritz ($12): Aperol aperitif with mandarin, passion fruit, sparkling wine and soda water. On the sweet side, but dangerously delicious.
Coconut Mojito ($12): An island twist on the Mojito, with rum, mint syrup, coconut water, coconut liqueur, lime and soda.
Ranch Hand ($12): Patron tequila, with cucumber water, makrut lime and soda. Refreshing, light and able to tame a stallion.
5000 Roberts Lake Road, Rohnert Park, 707-355-4219, thewaterhawk.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.