This article is part two in a series on top Sonoma County restaurant picks from our dining editor. Find part one on sonomamag.com.
People often ask me about my favorite restaurants, and I rarely have a great answer in the moment. I can tell where I ate last, but pulling from the mental archives on demand? Not so easy. As someone who eats (and writes about) food for a living, there’s just too much to sift through.
So, I took some time to curate a can’t-miss local foodie guide, divided into two parts. In this follow-up, I share my top picks in Sonoma Valley, Healdsburg and on the coast.
I’d love to hear your favorites — send me an email at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.
Sonoma Valley
Valley Bar + Bottle
This super-buzzy restaurant, wine bar and bottle shop is all about letting yourself enjoy the mystery of the menu. It doesn’t dally with long, overblown explanations, but you can’t go wrong no matter what you order. Open for dinner and brunch, with unusual and unexpected small-production wines. 487 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-934-8403, valleybarandbottle.com
Valley Swim Club
The only diving required at this popular roadhouse is straight into a bowl of clam chowder. This casual, walk-in-only sibling to Valley Bar + Bottle focuses on seafood, salads, milkshakes, smashburgers and plant-based options. On the drink menu, tasty porch pounders and standout natural wines are de rigueur, including the Valley team’s own Le Lube. 18709 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-243-3032, valleyswim.club
Enclos
Within six months of its January opening, Enclos had already secured two Michelin stars for its 11-course tasting menu, paying homage to the flora and fauna of Sonoma Valley. Instagrammers swooned over chef Brian Limoges’ tiny bites of venison and tree lichen perched on a foraged deer antler, as well as his Lilliputian ice cream sandwiches atop a honeycomb frame. 139 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-387-1724, enclos-sonoma.com
Poppy
The newest branch on The Girl & The Fig’s family tree, Poppy captures the fresh, honest simplicity of French countryside cooking, using seasonal ingredients and classic techniques. The bread service, roasted chicken and desserts are spectacular. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, poppyglenellen.com
Glen Ellen Star
This unassuming little cafe in Glen Ellen is a constant critics’ darling. Chef Ari Weiswasser’s deceptively simple wood-fired dishes showcase the best ingredients in the county, with much of his produce coming from a farm just behind the restaurant. It’s easy to dismiss simple menu items like a tomato pie with Espelette pepper. But it’s divine, as are the seasonal wood-roasted vegetables, brick chicken and whole fish with fava leaves and new potatoes. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com
Stella
Stella, which means “star” in Italian, is a standout newcomer. While pasta plays a starring role, Stella’s wood-fired grill steals the show. Orange flames leap several feet toward the hooded kitchen vent as bold cooks stoke the fire with bundles of wood. Don’t miss the “Baked Gelaska,” a riff on baked Alaska, with sponge cake, raspberry sorbet and vanilla gelato topped with a swirl of torched marshmallow fluff. 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com
El Dorado Kitchen
This hotel restaurant consistently delivers, offering a wide variety of dishes ranging from sophisticated dinner selections (such as caviar, Wagyu beef carpaccio and filet mignon) to simpler dishes, including a vegan rice bowl with mushrooms and seaweed, as well as a beet salad with orange yogurt. Burgers and shrimp tacos are great lunch options. The restful garden patio is a lovely meeting spot, and the bar offers a nice “table for one” dining experience. 405 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com
Spread Kitchen
Cristina Topham (known for her catering and farmers market food) serves up Lebanese-style lavash wraps filled with turmeric chicken, beef kofta and falafel with cheffy touches. Dirty fries with za’atar, feta cheese, tahini-yogurt sauce, pickled onions and herbs are a favorite, along with the five-dip combo of hummus, baba ganoush, muhammara, labneh and whipped feta, accompanied by a beet dip, all served with warm pita. 18375 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-721-1256, spreadkitchensonoma.com
Golden Bear Station
An intimate dining experience focused on shareable wood-fired meat and fish, including Dover sole in brown butter sauce, roast duck breast, rib-eye and grilled pork chop. Chef Joshua Smookler’s intensive attention to detail is evident in every dish. Starters, such as truffle udon, Korean rice cakes with Bolognese sauce and cacio e pepe are outstanding. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com
Buck’s Place
A former polka hall turned family-friendly bar and patio. Easygoing classics like chicken Parmesan, hoagies with all the gabagool, and crunchy-gooey mozzarella sticks are great. But pizza is the main event — Chicago deep-dish, sometimes, or grandma-style Sicilian, crunch-edged Detroit and the classic New York 16-inch round. Full bar. 401 Grove St., Sonoma. 707-231-1245, bucks-place.com
The Girl and the Fig
This destination restaurant serves legendary bistro-style French cuisine. Relax on the patio, sit at the polished wood bar or meet friends in the friendly lemon-yellow bistro. Steamed mussels and frites, as well as duck liver mousse or duck confit, are great options. Fig and arugula salad is a required order. 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com
West County
Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen
Located by the Creekside Skatepark, this quirky little cafe offers a mix of smoothies, bagels, pies and Middle Eastern cuisine. The desserts are impressive. 9725 Main St., Monte Rio, 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site
Underwood Bistro
Underwood Bistro is an integral part of Graton’s fabric, having withstood nearly 25 years in the volatile restaurant industry. Built on the bones of a former roadhouse and watering hole, it has retained its familiar come-as-you-are charm. Once inside, however, diners are transported to a Parisian-style bistro with long banquettes, bentwood chairs, a nickel-topped bar and soft yellow lighting that gives it an all-day sunset glow. 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com
Windsor, Healdsburg and points north
PizzaLeah
Leah Scurto is an award-winning pizzaiolo who puts every bit of her soul into making the best pies in Sonoma County. We’re obsessed with the Old Grey Beard with mozzarella, fontina, sausage and hot honey. 9240 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 116, Windsor, 707-620-0551, pizzaleah.com
Troubadour
When you own a bakery, why not make great sandwiches, too? Husband-and-wife culinary phenoms Sean and Melissa McGaughey have a sandwich outpost close to their bakery that transforms into a top-notch French bistro, Le Diner, at night. The world’s best egg salad on challah for lunch, vichyssoise with caviar for dinner. Dinner reservations required. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-3972, troubadourhbg.com
Dry Creek Kitchen
Upscale yet still a neighborhood favorite, this iconic Charlie Palmer restaurant has stood the test of time while continually adapting to the changing times. Chef Shane McAnelly’s pasta tasting menu is pure joy. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com
Bravas Bar de Tapas
A menu filled with brassy, bold Spanish flavors that do the cha-cha through your mouth and leave no question that you’ll need a breath mint or two before getting familiar with friends or co-workers. This is tapas the way it was meant to be enjoyed. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-576-9610, starkrestaurants.com
Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria
Chef Dino Bugica’s wood-fired pizzas are just one aspect of the Italian-inspired menu at his northern Sonoma County restaurant. Pasta and brick chicken are also on the dinner menu, as is excellent housemade salumi. Don’t miss the more casual Geyserville Gun Club next door. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com
SingleThread
A 15-plus-course tasting menu at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant is not just a night out, it’s an event. Chef Kyle Connaughton’s micro-seasonal dishes are inspired by his time in Hokkaido, Japan, and the bounty of the restaurant’s farm. Reservations are required for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The wine list is one of the best in the area, and that’s saying something. 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-723-4646, singlethreadfarms.com
Cyrus
Chef Douglas Keane and business partner Nick Peyton have created a mix of opulent, painstakingly crafted European and Japanese small bites, arranged with culinary precision and served on bespoke ceramic dinnerware. The minimalist restaurant interior, featuring wraparound windows, highlights the lush vineyard setting. Tickets for the 17-course “Dining Journey” are released two months in advance at exploretock.com/cyrus. 275 Highway 128, Geyserville, 707-723-5999, cyrusrestaurant.com
Valette
Chef Dustin Valette’s eponymous restaurant somehow manages to be luxurious and casual at the same time. A locals’ favorite, it features carefully curated ingredients and imaginative food experiences. Go for the “Trust Me” tasting menu that gives the best insight into Valette’s talents. 344 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com
Bistro Lagniappe
Chef Jacob Harth’s much-anticipated Healdsburg restaurant features wood-fired dishes inspired by California and French countryside cuisine. The original wood-fired oven is a centerpiece, and the fall-ish cassoulet is a must-try, along with McFarland Springs trout and a delightful roasted chicken. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8181, lagniappehealdsburg.com
Acorn Cafe
Breakfast and brunch classics get a major glow-up at this casual, neighborhood spot. French toast is bedazzled with cacao nibs and topped with kisses of whipped mascarpone and coffee ice cream. The Benedict is turbo-charged with brown butter hollandaise, and ricotta cheese makes the pancakes rise sky-high. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-955-7001, acornhealdsburg.com
El Milagro
This Cloverdale restaurant serves regional Mexican cuisine that makes the drive north worthwhile, offering a diverse menu that ranges from pumpkin seed mole and guisado (slow-braised stew) to simple flautas and tacos. Everything is made from scratch here, following authentic family recipes. 485 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6334, elmilagrocloverdale.com. Also located in Healdsburg at 241 Healdsburg Ave.; 707-473-8119, elmilagrohealdsburg.com
Coast, Highway 1
Rocker Oysterfeller’s at the Wharf
Historic coastal vibes with contemporary, family-friendly eats. Classic wharf-side dining with some Southern twists. Excellent fish and chips, smashburgers, Cajun blackened pasta and fisherman’s stew. Plus, steak! 595 Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707-772-5670, rockeroysterfellers.com
Spud Point Crab Co.
Though I have favorites for chowder, fresh crab and barbecued oysters elsewhere, this always-packed spot is unrivaled for its Dungeness crab sandwich (and I do love their garlicky chowder). Crab cakes (available only on weekends) are also excellent. What makes this an undisputed “good place” is its consistently high quality. 1910 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-9472, spudpointcrabco.com
Terrapin Creek
This isn’t the spot for fish and chips, so don’t ask. Instead, revel in dishes like Hokkaido scallops, Mediterranean fish stew and pan-roasted Pacific swordfish. 1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-2700, terrapincreekcafe.com
Valley Ford Cheese and Creamery
Dairy is the soul of Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery, owned by fourth-generation dairywoman Karen Bianchi-Moreda. Grab a picnic pack with her aged Estero Gold Reserve or enjoy a quiet country moment with a kimchi-kissed grilled cheese sandwich. Don’t leave without a swirl of the gelato-like soft serve made with milk from their Jersey cows. 14390 Valley Ford Road, Valley Ford, 707-875-0703, valleyfordcheese.com