“I was born on a green couch on Carriger Road between
the vineyards and the horse pasture.

I don’t remember what I first saw, the brick of light
That unhinged me from the beginning. I don’t remember
my brother’s face, my mother, my father.

Later I remember leaves, through car windows,
Through bedroom windows, through the classroom window,

The way they shaded and patterned the ground, all that
Power from roots. Imagine you must survive

Without running? I’ve come from the lacing patterns of leaves,
I do not know where else I belong.”

~ From “Ancestors” by Ada Limón

When Ada Limón learned that her childhood home was for sale, she felt an instant desire to buy it back.

The Glen Ellen native and 1993 Sonoma Valley High School graduate who rose to the top of the literary world as a National Book Award finalist, a MacArthur “Genius” fellow, and the nation’s 24th Poet Laureate — the first Latina appointed to that role — had lived most of her life elsewhere, in Germany, Seattle, New York, and Lexington, Kentucky. Yet she longed for home, often wistfully weaving Sonoma County’s familiar landscapes, trees, and wildlife into poems composed from afar.

Still, the decision to buy the house her father, Ken Limón — a retired teacher and former principal of Glen Ellen’s former Dunbar School — had sold 35 years ago was not one she could make with her husband, Lucas Marquardt, alone. She felt she needed to consult the house itself. Is this the right thing?

“I’m going to really listen and pay attention to what the front door says,” she remembers thinking.

Limón vividly recalls saying goodbye to the house when her father sold it, struck by the weird certainty that she might never walk through that door again. When she finally did cross the threshold decades later, she felt as though the walls embraced her, as if to say, “Welcome home. We’ve been waiting for you.”

“It just felt like it was breathing me in,” she says now, two years after moving back. “There was this sense of peace. A groundedness.”

The classic midcentury ranch house built in 1950 with open-beamed ceilings had changed little. A previous owner added a lap pool and hot tub — a welcome feature since Limón loves to swim — and remodeled the kitchen. But the bones were deeply familiar, from the over-the-garage bedroom her grandfather built to the brick fireplace that still bears the white paint her stepmother applied years earlier.

Limón has turned the walls into a gallery of paintings by her mother, Stacia Brady. The vivid local landscapes and soulful portraits of horses resonate with Marquardt, a writer, photographer, and promoter for thoroughbred racing. (Brady has also created the covers of many of her daughter’s books.) “When we moved in — the house — it just seemed to come to life as soon as we put them on the walls,” Limón says.

She and Marquardt met at a poetry reading in Greenwich Village in 2003. Limón ended up dating the Irish bartender who asked her out that same night. But she formed a friendship with Marquardt that lasted seven years before they finally went on a date.

“I came around the corner and started laughing, and we just knew,” she says. “It felt right. All the time it was you.”

Limón spent a decade in New York, where she attended graduate school for poetry and later worked for magazines, including GQ, at one point with an office literally inside the Nasdaq sign in Times Square. By 2010, she vowed to return to Sonoma Valley to devote herself fully to her poetry. Instead, she and Marquardt spent 14 years in Kentucky horse country before deciding it was finally time to go home. Limón wanted to be closer to her parents as they got older. Her mother and stepfather live in Sonoma; her father, who lives near San Diego, turns 80 this spring.

It was Marquardt who spotted the familiar Glen Ellen address when it appeared in real estate listings. Limón was intrigued, but the house was already in escrow. When that deal fell through, it felt like fate, she says.

When it came time to move, Limón was traveling extensively as Poet Laureate, serving as the Library of Congress’ ambassador for poetry and literacy. Her poem “In Praise of Mystery: A Poem for Europa,” engraved on NASA’s Europa Clipper spacecraft, launched toward Jupiter in 2024, and later became a children’s book illustrated by Peter Sis. That same year, she was named one of TIME magazine’s “Women of the Year.” She also partnered with the National Park Service to place poetry on park benches, reflecting her lifelong connection to the natural world, one forged in the creeks and open spaces of the Valley of the Moon.

The house sits a short walk from Glen Ellen’s blink-and-you’ll-miss-it downtown — a handful of restaurants, tasting rooms, markets, and small businesses at the base of Sonoma Mountain, where Calabasas Creek meets Sonoma Creek, one of Limón’s childhood haunts. Even now, she slips down to a creek near her house, hidden by thick foliage. She finds a smooth rock in the water for a perch and sits quietly, simply listening, meditating, or observing wildlife. Once, she looked up to find a bobcat watching her. She’s still hoping to spot the great blue heron that captivated her as a child and inspired another poem, “The Great Blue Heron of Dunbar Road.”

“It feels like a place where my poems came from, because it’s where I used to go as a child and sit for long periods of time and be alone,” she says. “I can return to that place. We talk about headwaters for watersheds, but I feel like they’re headwaters for my art.”

Limón and Marquardt share their home with two senior dogs: Duffy, a temperamental rescue, and Lily Bean, a pug. She used to bring her golden Labrador, Dusty, to the creek where she would “make songs” for him. She prefers that word — “make” — to “write,” which seems more utilitarian, like notetaking or transcribing.

“Poems inherently have a different relationship with time,” she says. “The present and the past are linked in every stanza. For me, it’s about building something. You’re creating a small world.”

Moving back stirred complicated emotions. Her childhood bedroom is now her office, its shelves lined with slim volumes of poetry instead of “The Chronicles of Narnia” and “The Witch of Blackbird Pond.” Her parents divorced when she was young, and she split time between her mother’s home in Sonoma and the house in Glen Ellen, which her father bought for $36,000 in 1976, the year she was born. When she left the house, it coincided with her father’s move out of state and a painful separation from her baby half-brother, Bryce. She also has an older brother, Cyrus.

Sometimes memories alight like apparitions.

“It doesn’t only happen in the house,” she says. “It happens by the creek and in the regional park. It can be unsettling. If I’m in a conversation or working in my childhood bedroom, there are times when I hear something or see something, and I think, ‘Oh, that’s just me. That’s my younger self.’ It feels like I have a much more precarious relationship with time.”

There are places that anchor her. She frequently curls up on a daybed by a picture window, reading or looking out at a valley oak whose bent branch once held a tire swing. A faded photograph shows her there on her fifth birthday, surrounded by friends she still keeps close.

“It’s also a great birdwatching spot,” she says. I see pileated woodpeckers right up there on that Douglas fir. It’s just really alive.” Another tree she “befriended” after being banished to the backyard as a child — which later inspired “Homesick,” a poem in her early collection “Sharks in the Rivers” — is no longer there.

Last year, Limón published “Startlement,” an anthology of new and selected poems. In April, Scribner will release “Against Breaking: On the Power of Poetry,” adapted from the address she delivered at the end of her term as Poet Laureate. She had envisioned a celebratory event with fellow poets on the stage. But the recent presidential election, and what she describes as an administration unfriendly to the arts, shifted her tone. Instead, she wrote and read a heartfelt, uplifting essay about why poetry matters.

“It felt like a time to think about what the power of the arts could actually do,” she says. “I didn’t want it to be a defense of poetry. I wanted it to be a celebration of the power of the creative spirit.”

She dedicated the 50-page essay to Carla Hayden — the first African American and first woman to serve as Librarian of Congress — who appointed Limón as Poet Laureate and was dismissed from the post by Donald Trump in May 2025. “A lot of her work was undone,” Limón says, citing Hayden’s efforts to make the Library feel welcoming to all.

As a Latina, Limón says she feels more anger than fear in this political moment. “I don’t even think we’re angry enough yet,” she says. “I’m interested in what’s coming because I think we’re going to get angrier. I think the country needs it. I think the culture needs it. We feel like we’re at a breaking point, but I don’t feel like it’s here yet.”

Limón continues to “make poems” inspired by nature, a fragile world, and the human experience, traveling three to four times a month for readings and lectures. On a local level, she will be promoting poetry and writing as the City of Sonoma’s Treasure Artist for 2026. She hopes her reflections will help protect the minds and imaginations of her audience, just as they sustain her own.

She worries that imagination is being “co-opted by social media” and says she despises the use of artificial intelligence to bypass the creative process.

“The fact that it’s even entering the creative realm to me speaks to a soul-deadening place we are in in this society,” she says. “Here is the one thing that fills our soul — art making — and we’re going to somehow outsource that when it’s our one joy? The thing that makes us human?”

If she could offer one message, she says, it would be this: “Making art and spending time with art is of value. Writing a poem, and sticking it in your back pocket, and never showing it to anyone, is absolutely as important as a public poem because it’s claiming your brain power again.”

For Limón, poetry is a vehicle for exploring both the outer and inner worlds. In “The Carrying,” her National Book Critics Circle Award-winning collection, she weaves rich imagery from nature — dandelions, goldfinches, a symphony of frogs along the footpath near General Vallejo’s Home in Sonoma — into poems that capture both beauty and the burdens she carried: infertility, anxiety, and chronic pain. In “Almost Forty,” she reveals a longing for a long life.

Now, as she approaches her 50th birthday in March, Limón describes a sense of unburdening. “I just feel like I’m more grounded in a different way. I don’t have that kind of anxiety I used to have.”

She spends time with close friends navigating similar midlife awakenings. She has come to peace with not having children. “You spend a lot of time waiting for the universe to give you an answer, and sometimes the answer is no. But it gave me a different relationship with my art, and with my family.”

After years of writing about home from memory, she finally gets to “live inside” her poems. Glen Ellen, she says, “is the only place I want to be.”

“I feel more myself. I’m more embodied. And I think I’m interested in possibilities and the different ways that imagination can be freed,” she says, her brown eyes lighting up. “I think I’m more myself than I’ve ever been.”

Poet Ada Limón is set to visit Sonoma Valley High School’s Little Theater on April 2 to launch her new book, “Against Breaking: On the Power of Poetry.” The book officially releases on April 7, 2026. adalimon.com

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Harvest season is a high-stakes proposition for giant-pumpkin grower Brandon Dawson, who lives in Santa Rosa with his wife and two young children.

Last year, Dawson grew California’s largest pumpkin in his backyard in Rincon Valley. The behemoth he named Seymour weighed in at 2,465 pounds and just narrowly missed winning the prestigious and lucrative Half Moon Bay World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off.

Dawson grew up on a rural property in southwest Santa Rosa where he learned a love for all things outdoors and inherited his green thumb from his mom, Pattie, a Sonoma County Master Gardener. Dawson is concerned about his pumpkin-growing prospects this year due to a cool start to the growing season and shares his trials and triumphs on YouTube and Instagram.

Editor’s note: At the 52nd World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off on Oct. 13, Dawson won the top prize with the largest pumpkin, weighing 2,346 pounds.

As a kid, Dawson recalls having birthday parties at Furlong Gulch Beach. These days he likes to take his kids for a gentle amble along the Kortum Trail, which offers easy access to the small, scenic beach. “It’s all about timing with the weather.” A self-professed weather geek, he checks to make sure there’s an offshore flow, ensuring a sunny day. Sonoma Coast State Park, Highway 1, Bodega Bay. parks.ca.gov

Dawson heads to Glen Ellen for dinners out. When the weather is nice, the creekside patio at The Saloon at The Jack London Lodge is a favorite family spot. For date nights Dawson and his wife, Zelda, like Glen Ellen Star. His go-to menu item is the wood-roasted seasonal vegetables, and he likes to sit at the bar to watch the chefs work their pizza oven magic. “How they go about it is kind of exciting.” 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com

“I’m really into native plants, and I recently re-did the front yard.” Dawson finds inspiration at the Sonoma Botanical Garden, in particular their recent focus on native California species including oak woodlands, stands of manzanita, and the rich variety of wildlife they support. 12841 Highway 12, Glen Ellen. 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org

With a day-job in the auto industry, Dawson enjoys going for drives. One of his favorites routes is along Coleman Valley Road because it offers “a great snapshot of the flora and fauna of Sonoma County.” Winding from Occidental to the coast, the scenery changes from redwoods to oak woodlands, then coastal chaparral. But Dawson warns, “It’s not the best sports car drive.”

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Home to the historic town of Sonoma, along with charming Glen Ellen and Kenwood, Sonoma Valley has relaxed, family-friendly appeal combined with rolling vineyard landscapes and walkable downtowns. Along with Sonoma Valley’s signature Cabernet Sauvignon, the region is known for Carneros Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Taste

Hamel Family Wines

Dramatic views are always on the menu at this 124-acre estate at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains, set among century-old olive trees. Book the Estate Experience for a tour of the expansive winery and underground wine caves followed by a seated tasting in the sleek Estate House, or splurge for the Chef’s Experience, featuring gourmet bites from the resident chef. Hamel’s signature wines — including Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, and Sauvignon Blanc — are shaped by volcanic soils. Reservations required. 15401 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma. hamelfamilywines.com

Hanzell Vineyards

Set on a steep hillside, Hanzell is home to the historic Ambassador’s 1953 vineyard — Sonoma County’s oldest continuously producing Chardonnay site. The winery is known for its “firsts” — this was the first winery in the world to use stainless steel tanks and the first in California to use all French oak barrels — as well as its incredible, subtly oaked Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The winery’s newly updated tasting experience includes a tour of the caves and the original 1950s Hanzell winery, which now serves as a museum. Reservations required. 18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma. hanzell.com

More wineries worth seeking out

Sample co-fermented blends made with Rhône varieties at Abbot’s Passage. The “Shuffleboard Social” experience includes game time on the vineyard court. Reservations encouraged. 777 Madrone Road, Glen Ellen. abbotspassage.com

Obsidian Base Camp’s Japanese garden oasis pours complex reds from an obsidian-laced vineyard in Lake County. Try the fun, experimental Rabbit Hole wines. Weekend reservations recommended. 441 First St. W., Sonoma. obsidianwineco.com

At Winery Sixteen 600 — tucked in an old farmhouse off the Sonoma Plaza — taste the Coturri family’s organically farmed wines in antique theater seats as vinyl records spin. Reservations required. 589 First St. W., Sonoma. winerysixteen600.com

Dine

Sonoma Eats Mexican Food & Café

Relish soulful Oaxacan fare in Boyes Hot Springs, where canned foods are banned and locally grown produce is everything. Founded by a former vineyard worker, Efrain Balmes, the restaurant team whips up chilaquiles and trés leches French toast in the morning, then moves on to must-have mole enchiladas and tacos for lunch. 18133 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma. 707-3431141, sonoma-eats.com

Enclos

A mere seven months after opening, this splurgy tasting menu destination landed not one, but two, coveted Michelin stars — as well as a Michelin Green Star for sustainable practices. On the plate, that translates to gorgeously presented dishes made with Sonoma-grown ingredients — from heirloom produce to responsibly raised meats. 139 E. Napa St., Sonoma. 707-387-1724, enclos-sonoma.com

Songbird Parlour

Dine in a plush and stylish Victorian-inspired salon at Jack London Village, where the menu reads like a love letter to Sonoma County farms and food purveyors. On Sunday nights, Songbird offers succulent, sweet-hot fried chicken at a bargain price. 14301 Arnold Drive, Suite 3, Glen Ellen. 707-343-1308, songbirdparlour.com

Spread Kitchen

This casual, indoor-outdoor café from French-trained chef Cristina Topham whips up Lebanese-inspired dishes with a decidedly California spin. The dips are divine — try the hummus spiced with Aleppo pepper — as are lavash wraps ranging from classic lamb kofta to fried cauliflower drizzled with green tahini. 18375 Hwy. 12, Sonoma. 707-721-1256, spreadkitchensonoma.com

Explore

The sculptureWALK exhibition showcases 30 outdoor statues and kinetic sculptures — crafted from metal, wood, stone, glass, and concrete — throughout Jack London Village. 14301 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. sculpturesite.com

Hitch a ride in a vintage VW bus with West Wine Tours and enjoy a relaxed day of wine tasting while drinking in Sonoma Valley’s vineyard views. Each charming Volkswagen in their fleet holds six to eight passengers, and there’s even an option to choose a color to set just the right vibe for a Wine Country cruise. 707-787-8141, westwinetours.com

Insider Tip

Stomp grapes at the Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival. Now in its 200th year, the weekend event is set for Sept. 25-27. valleyofthemoonvintagefestival.org

Give in to temptation at Pomme Cider Shop & Taproom. This apple-centric venue off the Sonoma Plaza is a haven for fans of natural ciders from near and far. 531 Broadway, Sonoma. pommecidershop.com

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There was a time when kids and Wine Country was not a great pairing. But that is changing. A new breed of family-friendly wineries are welcoming wine-loving parents and their (well-behaved) offspring for some fun in the vineyard — children sipping grape juice while parents relax, wine in hand.

Here are some of the most kid-friendly wineries in Sonoma and Napa counties.

Sonoma County

Francis Ford Coppola Winery

One of Sonoma County’s most famous family-friendly destinations, Francis Ford Coppola Winery has an expansive pool for an afternoon of fun in the sun. Wine and food is delivered to parents poolside, while kids can play bocce and board games. A museum inside the winery features props from Coppola films like The Godfather and Dracula. Reservations required for pool access. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1400, francisfordcoppolawinery.com

Preston Farm & Winery

This cat-friendly winery (leave your dog at home) has gardens, bocce and sheep, in addition to the cats that live on the property. If you’re lucky, your little one can help bottle-feed a lamb. Bring a picnic, pick up one of the winery’s famed Rhône wines, and enjoy the rustic, old-world charm of this west county spot. Don’t miss the farm shop, which sells fresh farm-grown produce. 9282 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-3372, prestonfarmandwinery.com

Larson Family Winery

The Larson family has been farming land in the Carneros region for over 120 years. After they started making wine in the 1970s, they turned their farmhouse into a family- and pet-friendly destination. Bring a picnic and enjoy an afternoon of wine tasting in the sun. Larson Family Winery offers bocce, cornhole and other kid-friendly games and has an expansive lawn that makes for a great location for a game of tag. 23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma, 707-938-3031, larsonfamilywinery.com

Landmark Vineyards

Founded by the great-great-granddaughter of John Deere, Landmark Vineyards has created a family-friendly environment at its Kenwood and Hop Kiln estates. After rounds of bocce ball at either property, parents can relax with a picnic and wine tasting while the kids play in the grass. 101 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood; 6050 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-833-0053, landmarkwine.com

Benziger Family Winery

It’s not just in the name. Benziger Family Winery is truly a family operation; generations of Benzigers have been raised on the property, known for its organic and biodynamic wines. The winery tour is a must for any first-time visitor to Wine Country. Kids and adults love riding the tram through the property while learning about agriculture, as well as biodynamic and organic winemaking practices. Sheep and cows make appearances along the route and the tram even travels into the wine caves. 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-935-3000, benziger.com

Cline Family Cellars

Founded in 1982, Cline Cellars is a family-run winery that offers unpretentious tasting experiences in an updated farmhouse, outdoor cabanas and by a pond. Kids will love the property, and parents the wine. Take a guided tour through the estate to the barrel room, where guests can learn about the history of the winery. Or, pack a picnic to enjoy pondside after a self-guided walking tour of the historic ranch, where the family can meet the winery’s resident donkeys and other farm animals. 24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-940-4044, clinecellars.com

Buena Vista Winery

Founded in 1857, Buena Vista Winery is the oldest commercial winery in California. The historic property offers wine tastings for adults and an educational and interactive experience for kids. Schedule a tour guided by period actors, who will guide your family through the winery, including the old wine caves and the historic Wine Tool Museum, which features a colorful multimedia presentation that feels like a blend between Wine Country and Disneyland. Don’t miss the hedge maze and the giant crocodile. 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com

Napa County

Castello di Amorosa

The closest thing to Disneyland in Napa Valley, Castello di Amorosa is a 121,000-square-foot replica of an Italian castle from the Middle Ages. It took 15 years to build and even a bored 15-year-old will be impressed. Book a guided tour, which features everything from gargoyles and knights in shining armor to a dungeon and an opportunity to meet the winery cats. There are also peacocks, sheep, chickens and other farm animals. Kids can sip grape juice (included in their $25 general admission ticket) and color their hearts out in their own play area while parents enjoy vino. Please note: Strollers are not allowed inside the winery. 4045 St. Helena Highway, Calistoga, 707-967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com

Sterling Vineyards

Sterling Vineyards offers yet another family-friendly experience in northern Napa Valley. The winery is only accessible via an aerial tram, which takes visitors 300 feet from the ground to the mountaintop estate. Upon arrival, kids will receive age-appropriate backpacks filled with a drink, snack and game. After a self-guided tour of the winery, parents can enjoy wine tasting overlooking Napa Valley. Please note: Children are welcome at the “Sterling Stroll” and “Tour and Terrace” experiences, but the tasting experiences in the Hilltop areas are strictly 21 and over. 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800-726-6136, sterlingvineyards.com

The River Club

Founded by two local family-owned wineries, Belong Wine Co. and Paper Planes Wine Co., the newly opened River Club welcomes children and pets (be sure to meet estate dog Peaches on your visit) to its cheery, laid-back tasting room space, nestled on the edge of the Napa River. Parents can sip Pinot Noir and Mourvèdre while taking in expansive river views, as the children play games, read books and color with provided art supplies in the kids’ corner. A kids’ snack pack is also available for purchase. Tastings are just $25 per person, and the next-door River Studio offers equally affordable riverside grub. 101 S. Coombs St., Napa, 707-234-5814, exploretock.com/riverclubnapa

Grace Yarrow and Maci Martell contributed to this article. 

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The former Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen will bloom into a new restaurant this spring, appropriately called Poppy.

“The Fig Cafe had a wonderful run,” said John Toulze, managing partner of The Girl and The Fig and the forthcoming Poppy. After 20 years in the community, Toulze said it was time for a new concept.

The restaurant won’t veer wildly off course from the café, which was known for its mix of California-Mediterranean cuisine. Instead, Poppy will celebrate the classic French dishes Toulze and Fig founder Sondra Bernstein loved about their trips to the south of France over the last 25 years — with plenty of California touches.

“It’s a return to where we started. Simple, ingredient-driven food with that original passion that was France,” he said.

While the menu is still in final development, dishes like duck liver terrine, Coquilles Saint Jacques, roasted rabbit, and chicken with wild mushrooms will likely appear. Poppy will also offer family-style prix fixe dinners Wednesday through Friday with four courses. Each night, a single entrée, such as roasted lamb, cassoulet or flounder Meuniere, will be offered. Wine will be included in the price.

“We want to focus on value, with everything included,” Toulze said.

The Fig Cafe quietly closed in December 2024, and renovations quickly began on the historic Glen Ellen location.

“We are completely reimagining the space; the colors, the textures, the experience,” he said.

Poppy is slated to open in late April. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, poppyglenellen.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

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On one hand, Glen Ellen is the town that Jack built. Nearly every sign references freewheeling roustabout author Jack London, from the burger on the menu at the local watering hole to the lively miniature boat races on Sonoma Creek each spring.

But on the other hand, even if the “Valley of the Moon” author had never set foot in this charming village, it would still lure countless visitors looking to get away and feast on everything that ripens around this enclave at the base of Sonoma Mountain.

“It’s the kind of place where everybody knows everybody, but we love sharing it with newcomers,” says Kim O’Donnell, event manager of the saloon and adjacent Jack London Lodge. “Tourists come into the saloon and hang out with the locals, and hours later they leave as friends.”

A Dickensian scene unfolds each year in front of the saloon in early December when a vintage carriage pulled by majestic Percheron draft horses picks up visitors for sing-along carols.

As in any French country village, a boulangerie is at the heart of daily life here. The rustic Les Pascals, run by husband-and-wife team Pascal and Pascale Merle, originally from Lyon, France, and their son Enzo, always makes extra bûches de Noel and peppermint mochas for the holidays. The copper rail that runs along the back wall of the cafe was rescued from a 1960s biker bar once located in the 1906 building next door.

The most coveted table in town is at Glen Ellen Star, where chef Ari Weiswasser finds art in seasonal menus that spotlight wood-fired vegetables, whole-roasted fish and wagyu steak. Wineries and tasting rooms abound, from Benziger to Arrowood to sixth-generation family vintner Katie Bundschu’s Abbot’s Passage. But by far the most unique experience is at Dane Cellars, where the tasting room is housed inside an enormous, hundred-plus-year-old redwood wine tank.

For a breathtaking, seasonal hiking experience, meander through the Sonoma Botanical Garden, a carefully curated Asian woodland that comes to life every fall with Amur maple leaves turning garnet beside golden chestnut trees in November, followed by the crimson leaves of five-lobed maple and beautyberry trees in December.

Of course the main attraction has always been Jack London State Park, as locals like Wine Country Trekking owner Greg Guerrazzi freely admit. “He’s still our claim to fame.”

Wander through the “The House of Happy Walls” museum, see the cottage where London wrote novels and short stories, and hike to his grave and his dream house, “The Wolf House,” which tragically burned down in 1913.

Memorialized in a painting at the saloon, London once described a late afternoon horse ride this time of year, as “the grapes on a score of rolling hills are red with autumn flame” and “wisps of sea fog” settled across Sonoma Mountain. “I have everything to make me glad I am alive,” he wrote.

More than a century later, Glen Ellen still evokes that feeling.

Where to visit

Jack London Saloon

This locals’ favorite watering hole, once known as “the Benzigers’ lower office,” according to the manager, may as well be a museum with all the Jack London memorabilia on the walls. 13740 Arnold Drive, 707-9963100, jacklondonlodge.com

Les Pascals

Quick with a flaky croissant or a fresh baguette, the French owners say Glen Ellen reminds them of old Lyon, the city where they started making Buche de Noel as teenagers. 13758 Arnold Drive, 707-934-8378, lespascalspatisserie.com

Glen Ellen Star

This cozy Michelin-recognized restaurant revolves around the wood oven, from the rustic pizzas to the whole branzino. Look for festive holiday lights on late sculptor Chuck Gillet’s funky water tower across the street. 13648 Arnold Drive, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com

Dane Cellars

Tastings inside a historic redwood wine tank, by appointment. 14300 Arnold Drive, 707-529-5856, danecellars.com

Abbot’s Passage

Look for a holiday photo booth, face painting, and custom clothing and home goods at the annual Winter Market on Dec. 8, plus wines and home goods any time of year. 777 Madrone Road, 707-939-3017, abbotspassage.com

Olea Hotel

This idyllic boutique hotel, nicely remodeled after the 2017 fires, is clustered around a heated pool with views that overlook the valley. 5131 Warm Springs Road, 707-996-5131, oleahotel.com

Sonoma Botanical Garden

Walk among gorgeous plants like Japanese barberry and harlequin glorybower at this Asian woodland park. The nonprofit garden hosts holiday table centerpiece classes featuring berries, pinecones and fresh greens. 12841 Hwy. 12, 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org

Jack London State Park

Bring good walking shoes because there’s plenty to explore, from the ruins of the Wolf House to the House of Happy Walls museum built by the acclaimed author’s wife, Charmian, after he died in 1916. 2400 London Ranch Road, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com

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The only things missing from Lauren Kershner’s vision of a Victorian-inspired salon are the swish of crinolines and hissing gaslights.

Soft lighting, broody paneled walls in pine needle green, velvet sofas in conversational arrangements and an upright piano set the scene inside the century-old Pagani family winery at Jack London Village in Glen Ellen.

The property’s history reaches back generations, first as home to the Miwok, and Spanish missionaries, then as a sawmill built by General Vallejo in 1839. Later, it became a gristmill (the grinding stones and water wheel remain), a distillery and a winery. Local author Jack London might have been seen strolling past when Arnold Drive was little more than a walking path.

After several restaurants came and went from the space, it stood empty for several years, gathering cobwebs until 2020, when Kershner embraced the possibilities of the raw space and got to work remodeling.

In 2022, Kershner opened Songbird Parlour as a hub for her catering company, private events, dinner parties and semi-regular pop-ups with guest chefs — but it was not officially open to the public.

In November 2024, Kershner added restaurateur to her lengthy list of projects, including Goodness Gracious catering and Valley of the Moon Kombucha.

“We put together this beautiful space, and we wanted to have people here five days a week. We want to get the community in here,” said Kershner of the five-night-a-week restaurant she operates with partner Kenneth De Alba.

Walking into Songbird is literally a walk through the history of Sonoma Valley as diners make their way through a hallway museum leading to the restaurant. Photos from the historical society celebrate residents, including culinary writer M.F.K. Fisher, World War II general Henry “Hap” Arnold and the Indigenous peoples who lived on the land for thousands of years. Even Hunter S. Thompson, who lived briefly in Glen Ellen, gets a nod.

Inside, the 42-seat restaurant opens to a soaring ceiling and open kitchen where executive chef Eric Moulton creates a seasonal, hyperlocal menu with “posh yet approachable dishes,” according to Kershner.

That includes a recent dish with prawns, coconut curry and Nardello chile.

“Oak Hill farm had a ton of Jimmy Nardello peppers, so it landed on our menu,” said Kershner of the mild frying peppers that arrived in America in the pocket of an Italian immigrant. Now part of Slow Food’s Ark of Taste, they’re considered an endangered heritage food, though in Sonoma County, they seem to be on menus from Petaluma to Cloverdale.

“We don’t come with a dish until we see what the farm has,” Kershner said.

Songbird’s menu is well-curated, with just a handful of flavorful, expertly crafted dishes rather than a laundry list to please every palate. Plant-forward dishes are well represented with Sunray Farms ‘leaves and things’ salad ($16), pickled beets with Grazin’ Girl Gorgonzola ($18) and caramelized winter squash with figs and Cabernet vinaigrette ($18).

While I only had a chance to try about half the menu, some dishes are calling me back for a return visit — halibut crudo with white peach and makrut lime granita ($24) or seared salmon with vadouvan (French curry) brown butter ($36). The regionally-focused wine list includes boutique producers Hill of Tara, Idle Cellars and Toje.

“We’re creating a space where people can indulge their passions, whether for food, wine, music or simply connecting with others,” Kershner said.

Best Bets

Caramelized Cassidy Ranch winter squash, figs in Cabernet vinegar, $18: Sweet crescents of squash sweetened by pomegranate seeds and seasonal figs make winter’s long, dark nights a little brighter.

Head-on prawns, $28: I usually shy away from food that puts up a fight — or threatens to stab me with its antennae, but these crustaceans came mostly peeled with most of the work already done. Pop off the head, give it a little suck and drench the body with creamy coconut curry sauce and Nardello chile sauce. A squeeze of grilled lemon brings the dish entirely into focus.

Fried farm potatoes and leeks, $14: Husky wedges of fried potatoes get a crispy dusting of fried leeks and esplette (a fruity, dried chile with just a hint of heat) from Seven Moons Farms. A fat smear of tomato aioli cools everything down.

Duck confit, $38: This pared-down riff on cassoulet includes a nicely cooked thigh and leg with crisp skin and moist meat that can only come from the confit process. The salty duck gets a sweet kick from pear mostarda, and earthy beluga lentils ground the dish.

Espresso braised pork belly, $22: Striations of crisp meat and fat make pork belly one of my favorite dishes. The dish is almost perfect, glazed with an espresso and red wine reduction and atop a fat pile of maitake mushrooms. I’d love to see the fat rendered more and the skin crispier for that perfect bite of savory, umami-laden belly.

Open from 3:30 to 8:30 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. Reservations suggested.
14301 Arnold Drive, Suite 3, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1308, songbirdparlour.com.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

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There’s a reason writer Jack London planted roots in Glen Ellen — and this fall, staff and volunteers at his namesake park have come up with a fun way to remind us of the beauty of our Sonoma County backyard while getting our blood pumping.

The WILD Trail Challenge features five hikes spread across five consecutive Saturdays, beginning Sept. 7 and concluding Oct. 5. Tackle them all to be part of an admirable group that can say they’ve explored every trail in Jack London State Historic Park.

But that’s not the only brag-worthy benefit nature lovers can look forward to. Along with a history lesson and firsthand look at the sheer beauty of the park, which offers stunning views in the fall, hikers can expect a fun fitness challenge.

“The hiking routes were selected to provide participants with a gradual increase in hiking duration and difficulty level,” said Ciara Pegg, tour coordinator and visitor services associate at Jack London State Historic Park. “Each hike focuses on a different region within the park, offering unique historical and natural highlights along the way.”

The idea for the WILD Trail Challenge was proposed by Malcolm Walter, board president of Jack London Park Partners, the nonprofit organization that operates and funds the park. When he and his wife moved to Glen Ellen, they purchased the home where Jack and Charmian London lived for five years while readying Beauty Ranch, now Jack London State Historic Park, to become their permanent home.

“The Park has been our go-to place for hiking, however, we were guilty of doing the same two or three trails over and over,” Walter said. “Upon assuming the role of president, I picked up a trail map and decided I needed to hike every trail in the park.”

After considerable research, Walter mapped and trekked a handful of varying-length hikes that cover all of the park’s trails. One day, the park’s executive director, Matt Leffert, joined him on one of the trails and the idea to offer the challenge to the public took hold.

Walter will lead the first three hikes (Sept. 7, Sept. 14, Sept. 21) and park staff and volunteers will guide the others. Hiking shoes and plenty of water are a must to participate.

For anyone on the fence about being physically able to take part, Pegg says the first two hikes will provide good insight into the planned hiking pace. Several park volunteers will be on every hike. If a participant wants to turn around or shorten the jaunt, volunteers will guide them back to the parking lot.

Outdoor enthusiasts can sign up for any number of the hikes individually or do them all. The cost for each hike is $15, or commit to all five hikes before Sept. 7 for $60. The hiking series cost does not include the park’s day use fee of $10 per vehicle.

All hikes except the third in the series (the Historic Orchard trek on Sept. 21) begin in the Ranch parking lot of Jack London State Historic Park (turn right after the entrance kiosk). The Historic Orchard hike starts at the Sonoma Developmental Center, at the main campus parking loop at Arnold Drive and Harney Street.

The 2024 WILD Trail Challenge

Hike 1: Historic Trails
Sept. 7, 9 a.m. – Noon
This hike explores the park’s trails and historic sites, including Beauty Ranch, London Lake and the Wolf House ruins. Listed as an easy to moderate hike (approximately 3.5 miles roundtrip).

Hike 2: Ancient Redwood
Sept. 14, 9 a.m. – Noon
Meander through the redwoods and sunny oak woodlands of the park’s three Bridge Trails (Upper, Lower and Fallen). The hike travels to the park’s ancient redwood, also known as the Grandmother Tree. Listed as a moderate hike (approximately 5.7 miles roundtrip).

Hike 3: Historic Orchard
Sept. 21, 9 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.
Stroll along the blue shores of Fern Lake before reaching the park’s historic orchard. Learn the story behind the 110 acres of apple, pear, apricot, peach, cherry and plum trees planted primarily in the early 1900s. Listed as a moderate to difficult hike (approximately 5.5 miles roundtrip).
Note: The hike begins at the Sonoma Developmental Center, 15000 Arnold Drive, in the main campus parking loop at Arnold Drive and Harney Street.

Hike 4: The Ridge
Sept. 28, 9 a.m. – 3 p.m.
On this hike, gain elevation and an appreciation for the diverse habitats found within the park and explore part of the ever-growing Bay Area Ridge Trail. Listed as a moderate to difficult hike (approximately 8.5 miles roundtrip).

Hike 5: The Summit
Oct. 5, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Complete the hiking series with a trek to the park summit. Listed as a difficult hike (approximately 8 miles roundtrip).

2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com

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Weary, somewhat bleary of the spin-sniff-sip-swallow-or-spit wine tasting experience? These Sonoma and Napa wineries offer a little something extra to pair with your cabernet.

Medieval fortresses and parterre gardens, swimming pools and outdoor art galleries, riding horses and trolleys — there’s plenty of reason to venture outside the tasting room on your next Wine Country trip.

A trip to Germany at Schug Carneros Estate Winery

French, Italian and Spanish accents abound at Sonoma and Napa wineries, so a visit to Walter Schug’s German-styled winery in Carneros is as refreshing as a trocken riesling.

Schug, who died in 2015 at age 80, grew up at Staatsweingut Assmannshausen in Germany’s Rhine Valley. Bit by the winegrowing bug, he eventually made his way to Napa Valley, as winemaker for Joseph Phelps Winery. In 1983, he founded his own winery estate yard in Sonoma Carneros, the production facility and tasting room designed with the peaked roof and timber framing typical in the Rhine. All the original winemaking equipment came from Germany and some of it remains, most strikingly the 669-gallon wood oval aging casks, some of them elaborately carved.

Riesling is no longer in the Schug repertoire, the grape not ideally suited to Sonoma’s sunny climate. Instead, Schug took the pinot noir (spatburgunder) route, adding chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and other varietals to the mix. His children continue the business, with German-American Johannes Scheid the winemaker.

The Cave Tour & Tasting Experience ($75) includes a walk around the property and through the production area and caves, followed by a seated tasting of current-release and Heritage Reserve wines, served with snacks.

602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-939-9363, schugwinery.com

Outdoor art gallery at The Donum Estate

Wineries have long been places for visitors to view art and photography on the walls of tasting rooms. Sculptures welcome guests at estate entrances and within sight of tasters.

Now, Donum has taken artistic displays well beyond the usual, dotting its 200-acre Carneros estate with 50-some large-scale, open-air sculptures from artists including Ai Weiwei, Keith Haring, Subodh Gupta and Doug Aitken. Adding to the high-end artistry: the tasting area designed by Danish architect David Thulstrup, known for his interior design of world-class Noma restaurant in Copenhagen.

The basic way to enjoy Donum is to book its Carneros Experience ($95), which includes a walking tour of the estate and tastes of its rosé, chardonnay and pinot noir. The Explore Experience ($175) is a two-hour, all-terrain-vehicle tour of the estate and tasting of wines served with seasonal bites and, of course, views of the artwork.

24500 Ramal Road, Sonoma, 707-732-2200, thedonumestate.com

Living history at Buena Vista Winery

Founded in 1857 by Agoston Haraszthy, Buena Vista is the second-oldest winery in California and is often referred to as the oldest premium winery in the state. (The oldest winery in California is D’Agostini Winery, which was founded in 1856.)

Haraszthy, a vivacious and eccentric pioneer, immigrated from Europe in 1840 in search of the good life. Following in the footsteps of the forty-niners, he found the perfect terroir for “purple gold” and, as the self-proclaimed “Count of Buena Vista,” he established a reputation as an experimental vintner, a shrewd businessman and a flamboyant evangelist. (He died as he had lived — dramatically — in an alligator-infested river in the jungles of Nicaragua.)

The legend of Haraszthy and his winery is now recreated by Buena Vista owner Jean-Charles Boisset, a modern-day version of the eccentric count. The best way to get a taste of the winery’s history (and some wine) is to reserve the Barrel Tasting & Winery Tour ($50), which takes visitors on a stroll through the winery grounds and into the Champagne Cellar for a taste of current release wines. Next, the tour continues into the wine caves where guests can sample wine from the barrel.

18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com

Horsing around among the vines at Jack London State Park

They say, “don’t drink and drive,” but can you drink and ride?

At Triple Creek Horse Outfit in Glen Ellen, the riding is sensibly taken care of before the drinking. And what a ride it is. Triple Creek offers guided horseback tours at Jack London State Historic Park in the magical Valley of the Moon. The park features fine riding trails through Jack and Charmian London’s Beauty Ranch, which wind around acres of vineyards, through open oak woodlands and under shady groves of majestic redwoods.

All Triple Creek Horse Outfit rides include a complimentary wine tasting at nearby VJB Cellars in Kenwood. The winery also has a gourmet Italian deli and sells wood-fired pizza, gelato and more. Private rides (one hour to two hours) are $145 to $225 per rider. Questions are best addressed via email at triplecrik@gmail.com. Bookings can be made online.

2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-888-0034, triplecreekhorseoutfit.com

Humming bees and lavender fields at Matanzas Creek Winery

Matanzas Creek Winery in Bennett Valley has been a haven for wine enthusiasts and lavender-lovers since 1991. Guests to the winery can sip sauvignon blanc on a terrace overlooking fields of lilac and amethyst; the soothingly seductive perfumes wafting in the breeze to the hum of bees shifting busily among the blossoms.

The end of June/beginning of July is prime lavender season at Matanzas Creek Winery. The fields are organically farmed and are cut, bundled and hung to barn dry after reaching full bloom. Then the dried blossoms are used in culinary, bath, body and home products sold in the winery’s lavender market.

Tastings (from $35) are by appointment. Picnic tables (with bottle service) can be reserved for two hours ($25 on weekdays; $50 on weekends). Bocce courts can be rented for two hours daily ($20 per person).

6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-528-6464, matanzascreek.com

An all-terrain adventure at Chenoweth Wines

Of the more than 400 wineries that call Sonoma County home, the grand estates have a knack for getting all the attention. But when you make the turn onto the retired tractor-lined driveway at Chenoweth Wines, it’s the unpretentious setting that makes you happy you’ve arrived.

With 800 acres of land, from redwoods to vineyards, the Chenoweth estate offers plenty to see. But it’s how you get to see it — buckled into an all-terrain vehicle — that adds even more bragging rights to a busy day of wine tasting.

ATV tours ($125 per person) take about 1 1/2 hours and traverse the Chenoweth ranch, redwood grove and vineyards and make stops for wine tasting outdoors. At tour’s end, guests can stay and enjoy their own picnic in the redwood grove. Tours are limited to eight guests and can be booked by calling 707-829-3367 or emailing joinus@chenowethwines.com.

5550 Harrison Grade Road, Sebastopol, 707-331-2734, chenowethwines.com

A taste of history at Three Sticks Wines

The historic Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe is the longest occupied residence in Sonoma and one of the town’s few remaining buildings from California’s Mexican period.

Constructed in 1842 by Captain Salvador Vallejo (the infamous brother of General Mariano Vallejo), the adobe has been carefully restored by Three Sticks owners Bill and Eva Price, who now house a private tasting room for their Three Sticks wine label in the historic building.

Visitors can tour the adobe and take in its history while tasting a flight of pinots and chardonnays ($65) or finish the experience with a food and wine pairing prepared in partnership with the celebrated chefs at El Dorado Kitchen.

New this season is the Oysters & Chardonnay pairing ($95) that includes a flight of three single vineyard chardonnays and half a dozen oysters on the half shell (three types of oysters). Guests get to learn about terroir (how environmental factors like soil, topography and climate impact the wine) and merroir (how the bivalves’ marine surroundings influence their flavor).

143 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com

Cabernet on a cable car, Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley

Lack a designated driver? Think limousine tours are for tourists? Biking and wining a precarious pair? The Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley might just be what you’re looking for.

Built from the blueprints of an 1890s San Francisco cable car, the trolley safely trundles wine enthusiasts on a six-hour ride through Sonoma Valley.

The journey begins at Sonoma Plaza and then makes three stops at local wineries for private tasting experiences (the stops change with the seasons and include wineries such as Ravenswood, Imagery Estate, Paradise Ridge, Gloria Ferrer and B.R. Cohn).

Included in the package is a guide, a boxed lunch, views of the bucolic Wine Country landscape and plenty of bottled water. Daily Sonoma tours begin at 10:15 a.m. and end at 4:30 p.m. The tour is $125 and reservations can be made online. Tasting fees at the wineries range from $30 to $40 per person.

sonomavalleywinetrolley.com

Wine wonderland at Francis Ford Coppola Winery

Bringing the kids on a wine tasting trip may not seem the best of ideas, that is unless you are destined for Francis Ford Coppola’s winery.

The famous filmmaker’s Geyserville estate is a wonderland with wine: film memorabilia (including Don Corleone’s desk from “The Godfather”) and Oscars are on display; its two swimming pools (3,600 square feet in total) are surrounded by chaise lounges, cabanas and bocce courts; and there is always plenty of wine for the adults.

Seated tastings on the terrace are $40. Bocce courts can be reserved 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Thursday-Monday. ($50 per person, plus tax; available for parties of eight to 24 guests).

Cabana reservations, which is the only way to access the pool, become available on the winery’s website in late spring. (The pool is typically open from mid-June to early October.) It is a popular place to be during summer in Wine Country, so make sure to make your cabana reservations early.

300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1400, thefamilycoppola.com

Tulips and trees at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery

Ever experienced a tulip emergency? Healdsburg’s Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery has a tulip hotline set up in the late winter/early spring months for fans eager not to miss the winery’s 10,000 tulips in bloom.

The five-acre winery gardens also feature over 2,000 species of trees and shrubs, a variety of perennials and annuals (the tulips and daffodils take center stage in the spring), waterfalls that flow into fish-filled ponds and bronze sculptures from renowned artists Dennis Smith, Douglas Van Howd and Jane DeDecker.

The Italian/French parterre gardens accentuate classic geometric shapes. The enclosed garden at the front of Villa Fiore (the estate winery) has a parklike setting, its design more relaxed and its emphasis on color and texture.

Take in views of the gardens and surrounding vineyards from the winery’s Sycamore Grove terrace during the Wine & Brunch experience (10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sundays; $85 per person).

The brunch includes a flight of reserve wines paired with a seasonal, Italian-inspired menu with dishes such as Prosciutto Benedict with roasted potato and estate garden greens; Yannis Sausage & Farm Fresh Egg Strata topped with Valley Ford Estero Gold Cheese; and TCHO Dark Chocolate Panna Cotta for dessert. Advance reservations and prepayments are required (reservations are refundable up to 72 hours prior to visit).

8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6700, ferrari-carano.com

Portal to the middle ages at Castello di Amorosa

It’s no surprise that some refer to Dario Sattui, a fourth generation vintner and the man behind Castello di Amorosa, as a modern-day Don Quixote.

Some 20 years ago, Sattui began a 15-year quest to build a medieval-style Tuscan castle in Napa Valley as a place to showcase his wines. The result: a 107-room, eight-level, 121,000-square-foot castle complete with drawbridge, secret passageways, torture chamber and tasting rooms.

Seated and standing tastings ($60 and $50) give visitors access to the two main levels of the castle via a self-guided tour (strategically posted QR codes make it easy to learn about the winery at your own pace).

The Diamond Estate Tour & Reserve Wine Tasting ($70) and the Cheese & Charcuterie Wine Pairing Tour ($85) include guided tours that take visitors through the two main levels and also into the production area, underground cellars, torture chamber and armory. Reservations required for all tastings.

4045 St Helena Highway, Calistoga, 707-967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com

Gondola glides to the tune of old English bells at Sterling Vineyards

A one-of-a-kind aerial tram glides you on a 360-degree scenic ride up a tree-covered hill to the winery. Debarking at the summit, visitors can then begin to explore the chalk-white stuccoed, many-verandaed winery. Its architectural inspiration? The Greek villages on the island of Mykonos where Sterling founder, Peter Newton, once lived.

High in the towers at Sterling Vineyards are eight bells that once hung in London’s Church of St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East. When the Anglican church, founded in the Saxon 10th century, was badly damaged by the Great Fire of 1666, it was repaired and a Christopher Wren steeple added. (St. Dunstan’s was much later mortally damaged during the London Blitz in 1941.)

The bells found their way to Calistoga in the 1970s and soon visitors can continue to enjoy the timelessness of their reverberations at Sterling Vineyards.

1111 W. Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800-726-6136, sterlingvineyards.com

Linda Murphy and Dana Rebmann contributed to this article. 

The post 12 Unique Winery Experiences in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

With all there is to love about Sonoma spring — the greening of vineyards and all those wildflowers —you might miss the gravel path less traveled at Quarryhill Botanical Garden. The former quarry turned world-renowned Asian woodland garden is home to several thousands of exotic plants, some of them critically endangered.

Spring highlights include showy camellias — “hummingbird magnets,” as Quarryhill’s new executive director, Scot Medbury calls them. The camellias’ bright colors inspire a fierce rivalry among male hummingbirds, who dive and swoop to get to the flowers.

And when the garden’s many deciduous magnolias bloom on bare branches in spring, “it’s an arresting sight that kind of floors you,” says Medbury. The rare, bone white Yulan magnolia, which flowers all year long, “would look at home in the hands of Aphrodite,” he explains lyrically.

This collection exists as a modern- day ark of conservation, thanks to 15 seed-gathering expeditions to East Asia since the 1990’s, funded by the garden’s late founder, Jane Davenport Jansen. Visitors wind their way through 25 acres of wild shrubs and trees, with ponds, hilltop views, and Tibetan prayer flags to happen upon.

After the rains, ponds swell and water rushes from a couple of mini falls. This year’s drier weather has so far reduced their flow; the babbling brooks are giving off more of a murmur. But the space still enchants with its picturesque foot bridges, rock walls, and resident snowy egret and ducks.

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