West County Grill update

"Jonathan threw us to the wolves," says Darren McRonald, who is currently doing double duty as acting GM and head chef. "We learned some hard lessons," he told BiteClub by phone. Although Waxman's departure from the restaurant is still unofficial according to McRonald, he is no longer involved in the operations of the restaurant. "Jonathan's in New York. He's away too much," he said.


RESTAURANT NOW CLOSED

Several BiteClubbers have recently asked me, “What’s up with West County Grill?
Because after tons of fanfare and hype when it opened a little more
than a year ago, things have seemed to go steadily downhill. Lots of
criticism. Lots of unhappy locals. And a disappearing act by the star
of the show, celeb chef and co-owner Jonathan Waxman soon after its
debut.

Jonathan threw us to the wolves,” says Darren
McRonald, who is currently doing double duty as acting GM and head
chef. “We learned some hard lessons,” he told BiteClub by phone.
Although Waxman’s departure from the restaurant is still unofficial
according to McRonald, he is no longer involved in the operations of
the restaurant. “Jonathan’s in New York. He’s away too much,” he said.

Which has been a blow to the Sebastopol spot locals hoped would be the next coming of Chez Panisse. Both Waxman and wine guru Stephen Singer (who
remains at the restaurant) were celebrated Panisse alums who hoped to
receive a warm welcome in Wine Country. That’s yet to be seen.

With a revolving door of general managers front-of-the-house staff (Manzanita’s Mike Hale
left, along with two other GM’s), the restaurant is hoping to repair
some of the ill-will it garnered during its rocky first year.

Cinnamon Marquardt,
formerly of K&L Bistro, has been hired to improve the restaurant’ s
uneven service and McRonald’s looking toward food quality. “The
kitchen’s spent enough time together to operate effectively.”

The large restaurant continues look for ways to innovate, including re-opening for lunch and dinner continuously, 7 days a week. They’re serving fried chicken on Sundays and ethnic dinners on Wednesday.

The
question remains, however, whether they can regain the goodwill of
locals who were promised a spot where Wine Country could come “hang
out”.

What’s your experience been? Are you willing to give West County Grill another chance? See the original review from BiteClub.

Scopa | Healdsburg

Scopa Restaurant Healdsburg
Scopa Restaurant Healdsburg
Scopa Restaurant Healdsburg

The name of Ari Rosen’s casual Italian eatery, Scopa, refers to an ancient Italian card game that, like poker,  requires plenty of bluffing, banter, booze and snacks to be properly played. Deal me in.
Inside Scopa, the vibe is extremely casual, with smiling, t-shirted waitrons,  stemware only by request (in Healdsburg? shocking!), a reasonably-priced wine lists that hovers mostly in the 30-40 range and relaxed dishes that beg for bread-sopping and cross-table sharing. Shoebox-sized, there are only a handful of tables, smushed together bistro-style along the right wall; several tall bar tables for two are along the left.
Start with Larry Pacini’s house-made Ciabatta ($2), which you’ll gladly use in place of a fork, napkin or spoon throughout the meal. This is serious soaking bread. The Tonno Del Chianti ($8) (is cold, shredded pork that’s been preserved in oil, “tuna style”. Served up with a tangy balsamic fig jam and greens, it’s a refreshing appetizer for two. The real thriller, however, is the burrata ($9) that nearly brought me to tears. Some of you may know of my absolutely ridiculous passion for mozzarella. I’ve spent years tracking the perfect ball. I’ve still never found it. This burrata, made by a couple in San Diego, is an insane little orb of tender mozzarella with a soft, creamy middle that would make an Oreo blush in shame and about as close (to perfection as I’ve found stateside.
Also on the Antipasti menu are chile-braised tripe ($7.50), grilled fontina cheese and spicy meatballs with smoked mozzarella.The one major stinker of the night was finding out the house-made gnocchi with Napolitano meat ragu ($16) was sold out. The Orecchiette ((literally “little ears”, $16) was a pale consolation, studded with (turnip greens, chili flakes and ricotta. Not that it was bad. It just wasn’t as good as the rest of the meal. I still licked the bowl clean (while thinking about how much I wished
I had a plate of fresh ravioli (stuffed with ricotta, nettles and covered in brown butter sage sauce (($16). The stuffed calamari ($16) are four(ish) torpedos of squid stuffed with caper berries and olives and grilled with Yukon Gold potatoes.The entrees are small, so there’s no shame in ordering a couple if you’re really hungry. Among the choices: pizza topped with green garlic, sausage and cheese ($15), tomato-braised chicken with polenta ($17) and grilled rack of lamb with fava beens, spring leeks and backed ricotta ($22). Desserts thus far are simple affairs, the best being a board of cheese, pear and (honey to go with your French press coffee. And, despite the beckoning of summer, outdoor seating at Scopa is so-far just a single table squeezed against the building. With so little space inside, you’ll feel a little squeezed regardless.
The sheer press of humanity, clinking glasses and wafts of garlic and olive oil can make for a heady experience. Embrace it. And feel yourself embraced back by the warmth, honest cooking and impromptu camaraderie of Scopa. It’s in the cards.
Scopa: 109A Plaza St, (Healdsburg, 707.433.5282. Reservations recommended. Open for dinner (Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 to 10 pm.

Pimp my fries


Three words: Truffle oil fries.

Just a couple weeks into its new ownership, The Healdsburg Bar and Grill is noticeably changed under the watch of Cyrus’ Nick Peyton and chef Douglas Keane. Though the look and feel is still very much the same as the old HBG–casual inside tables, t-shirted waitrons and kids running around the bocce ball court outside–the menu has been elevated to haute burger status.

Starts include a very grown up mac ‘n cheese with Fiscalini, Parmigianno-Reggiano and Hobb’s bacon, lobster bisque and the sweet-tangy Alexander Valley gourmet pickles. Three types of cracker-thin pizzas are handmade to order, from a simple margherita to the tony goat cheese, arugula, caramelized onion and portobello-topped.

What you’re really there for, of course, are the HBG burgers, which are some of the best BiteClub’s had in, well, at least a few weeks. With the Cyrus crew in charge, there’s a pedigree to every ingredient (quel surprise). All that matters to your tastebuds is that they’re juicy, tasty and nicely pink on the middle without being raw or greasy. And at $7.75 (that’s before you add all the fancy pants toppers like Rogue Creamery blue cheese), about the cheapest thing on the menu. As long as you’re indulging, though, the truffle oil fries make the meal, dipped in a side of creamy horseradish and roasted garlic mayo.

Save a little room for the Brownie Surprise, bite-sized chunks of rich chocolate brownies swimming in a fudgy pudding. What’s the surprise? It comes with jazz hands, according to our server. Your results may vary.

Sticker shock can be a bit steep, considering the $10 mac ‘n cheese, $12 pizza and a $15.50 seared tuna sandwich (though worth every bit of the pricetag). This is Cyrus-quality fare, after all. The prices don’t seem to be scaring off crowds who are already waiting upwards of 30 minutes for a table.

Fortunately, they’ve brought over a few Cyrus-inspired cocktails (the Wonka Drop and Mango Mai Tai) as well as a impressive wine list to keep folks relaxed and happy. And hungry for those truffle oil fries.

Healdsburg Bar and Grill, 245 Healdsburg Ave, (707) 433-3333.

Healdsburg Bar and Grill | Healdsburg

Healdsburg Bar and Grill The Healdsburg Bar and Grill is noticeably changed under the watch of Cyrus’ Nick Peyton and chef Douglas Keane.
Though the look and feel is still very much the same as the old HBG–casual inside tables, t-shirted waitrons and kids running around the bocce ball court outside–the menu has been elevated to haute burger status.
Starts include a very grown up mac ‘n cheese with Fiscalini, Parmigianno-Reggiano and Hobb’s bacon, lobster bisque and the sweet-tangy Alexander Valley gourmet pickles. Three types of cracker-thin pizzas are handmade to order, from a simple margherita to the tony goat cheese, arugula, caramelized onion and portobello-topped.
What you’re really there for, of course, are the HBG burgers, which are some of the best BiteClub’s had in, well, at least a few weeks. With the Cyrus crew in charge, there’s a pedigree to every ingredient (quel surprise). All that matters to your tastebuds is that they’re juicy, tasty and nicely pink on the middle without being raw or greasy. And at $7.75 (that’s before you add all the fancy pants toppers like Rogue Creamery blue cheese), about the cheapest thing on the menu. As long as you’re indulging, though, the truffle oil fries make the meal, dipped in a side of creamy horseradish and roasted garlic mayo.
Save a little room for the Brownie Surprise, bite-sized chunks of rich chocolate brownies swimming in a fudgy pudding. What’s the surprise? It comes with jazz hands, according to our server. Your results may vary.
Sticker shock can be a bit steep, considering the $10 mac ‘n cheese, $12 pizza and a $15.50 seared tuna sandwich (though worth every bit of the pricetag). This is Cyrus-quality fare, after all. The prices don’t seem to be scaring off crowds who are already
waiting upwards of 30 minutes for a table.
Fortunately, they’ve brought over a few Cyrus-inspired cocktails (the Wonka Drop and Mango Mai Tai) as well as a impressive wine list to keep folks relaxed and happy. And hungry for those truffle oil fries.
Healdsburg Bar and Grill, 245 Healdsburg Ave, (707) 433-3333.
Healdsburg Bar & Grill (HBG) on Urbanspoon

Mother’s Day


I recently heard someone say that if you needed a holiday to honor your mom, you might need to rethink your relationship. Which is probably true, but it’s always nice to have a fire lit under one’s sorry behind to get that maternal thanksgiving crackling.

And what better way to say, “You’re the best, Mom” than treating her to a sit-down meal on Sunday (that’s Mother’s Day, if you haven’t gotten my drift yet). But not just any old brunch. We’re talking seriously good eats that let her know just how much you care.

BiteClub’s top bet is a patio-side seat at the new Cafe Saint Rose. We got a first look at Mark Malicki’s new digs on Tuesday, and any concern over his departure from downtown Santa Rosa can be filed under No Worries. The roadside spot sits on 1.5 acres with a babbling creek, two large outdoor patio decks and more charm than should be legal in Wine Country.

Sunday’s ‘Samba Your Mama’ menu includes Suckling Pig Hash, sweet potatoes with poached eggs; short ribs, biscuits and gravy, smoked chicken, asparagus and morels and sheep’s milk ricotta blintzes. Plus, a few surprises. You’re so gonna be the favorite child.

Mark’s left a couple of Big Wheels on the patio for the tots to roll around–or well, the young at heart. He’s planning to have some music to serenade mom by as well as plenty of wine and beer selections should the conversation start getting sticky. The restaurant opens for brunch at 9am and Mark’s set aside some room for walk-ins. If you miss out on Sunday’s festivities, Cafe Saint Rose is now open Wednesday through Sunday for dinner, starting at 5pm, and every Saturday and Sunday for brunch. Note the new location: 9890 Bodega Hwy (a few miles west of downtown Sebastopol), 829.5898.

Also this weekend for mama:

Sonoma: The General’s Daughter will be serving cream of corn soup with lump crab and sweet sherry; shrimp and grits with andouille and Tabasco butter; French toast with smoked salmon and poached egg; lamb rib eye with lentils and pancetta; wild mushroom crepes; and Valrhona chocolate caramel tart. Three courses $49, wine pairings $25. 400 W. Spain St., Sonoma. 707.938.4004.

Santa Rosa: Zazu Restaurant features lavender waffles with lemon curd, breakfast pizza and their own Black Pig bacon from 9am to 2pm on Sunday. Kids under 12 are half price. 3535 Guerneville Road, 523.4814

Spicy Moms might like the international flavor of the champagne brunch at Sizzling Tandoor (409 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 579.5999) or Las Guitarras Mexican Restaurant (unlimited champagne and flowers from 10am, 7384 Commerce Blvd,, Santa Rosa. 792.4380).

Geyserville: Santi Restaurant hosts an a la carte Italian Mom’s Day feast from 10:30am to 2pm. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville.

Napa: Julia’s Kitchen has a prix fixe feast at COPIA from 11am to 3pm (265.5700). Plus, you can check out the new Oxbow Market (which has finally gotten some critical mass) and snag an edible gift or two.

Petaluma: La Dolce Vita Wine Bar features a
special brunch menu with champagne flights, and a free glass of bubbly for mom from 12pm to 3pm.

Where will you be on Mother’s Day? Add your favorite spots to raise a toast (and a fork) to mom.

Plaza Farms closing

After several years of trying to make a go of it, Healdsburg’s Plaza Farms is throwing in the towel. The market, which opened in 2005, has struggled to gain a foothold with tourists and locals since its inception despite the popularity of many of its vendors, including Bovolo Restaurant and DaVero Olive Oils and former occupants Scharffen Berger Chocolates, Otea and Bellwether Farms. It’s too bad.

BiteClub ran into John Stewart, co-owner of Zazu and Bovolo on Sunday at his restaurant after seeing a small sign in the back of the market announcing the closure of Plaza Farms. The good news is that Bovolo will remain in its current spot as Copperfield’s Bookstore expands into the market space (they’re currently next door, and will be knocking down the adjoining wall). Mmmm. Gelato and Ginsberg. Pork and Poe.

Stewart says that he’s looking forward to the new opportunities with Copperfield’s, including, he hopes, doing more food/book related events. The expansion is anticpated to be completed over the summer. Stay tuned.

Plaza Farms/Bovolo: 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg

Hey cupcake

Cupcakes are the happiest food on earth. I dare you to defy me on that. Wrapped in crinkly paper collars and capped with a pastel poof of buttercream, they’re unabashedly adorable. They come in dozens. And no one can pull off sprinkles and candy glitter with the same panache.

But when it comes to taste, well, that’s where things sometimes go horribly wrong. Dry, crumbly cake. Greasy, fake frosting that leaves behind a room full of purple fingerprints and blue teeth. Exactly the sort of thing that keeps cupcake baker Andrea Ballus awake at night. Or rather up at 4am each morning.

As owner of Sift, the Sonoma County’s first official cupcakery, Ballus is dedicated to the art of killer cupcakes. With a baker’s dozen (or so) flavors fresh made each day, she and her staff (of one) are barely keeping up with demand. Not exactly surprising when at least half the menu reads like a high-end cocktail list–Pink Champagne, Miami Vice, Limonata, the Irish Car Bomb and the Ooh La La. Cute, but just a little dangerous.

Using non-traditional ingredients like Guiness Stout, champagne, green tea and key lime pie filling, Ballus is elevating the cupcake to more than a mere snack. It’s a little bit of pastry heaven.

The long-time Bay Area resident recently returned from a stint in Las Vegas, where cupcake shops have become all the rage with sweet-teethed grown-ups. Inspired by the baking bug, she opened her Cotati shop in mid-April. She shop has been reduced to crumbs nearly every day since.

Cupcakes run $2.75 a piece, which may sound a bit shocking at first. But consider the cost of morning croissant. Or a Starbuck’s latte. Cupcakes are way better and they won’t make you nearly as jittery. Unless of course, you eat twelve–which is exactly what BiteClub did (with a few friends) after grabbing a dirty dozen from Sift ($30).

With a hearty shout of “Cupcake Tasting!”, we decimated a box in just under 15 minutes. Results as follows:

Handsdown Winner
Key Lime Bliss: Vanilla cake with key lime pie filling and key lime frosting

Car Casualty (meaning it never even made it back to the office, it was so dang good)
Miami Vice: Pina Colada cake with fresh strawberry frosting.

Most Surprising
The 50/50: Orange cake with cream cheese frosting (think Creamsicle)

Most fascinating to the guys
Ooh La La: Red velvet cake with cream cheese frosting. I won’t even try to figure that one out.

Most radically delish

Irish Car Bomb: Chocolate Guiness cake with Irish cream frosting.

Best for Last
With its unassuming white frosting, this little sneaker got left for last. But oh, how good it was.
Pink Champagne: Fresh raspberry cake with champagne frosting.

And the rest
Pinking of You: Vanilla cake with pink buttercream frosting
Bugsy: Carrot cake with cream cheese frosting
Limonata: Lemon cake with strawberry frosting
Showball: Coconut cake with cream cheese frosting
Chocolatease: Vanilla cake with chocolate frosting
Over the Moon: Chocolate cake with pink buttercream frosting

Sift Cupcakery: 7582 Commerce Blvd., Cotati, 792.1681. Open Tuesday through Friday from 7am to 6pm, Saturday 10am toi 5pm and Sunday noon to 5pm. Closed Monday.

Sift Cupcakery

As owner of Sift, the Sonoma County's first official cupcakery, Ballus is dedicated to the art of killer cupcakes. With a baker's dozen (or so) flavors fresh made each day, she and her staff (of one) are barely keeping up with demand. Not exactly surprising when at least half the menu reads like a high-end cocktail list--Pink Champagne, Miami Vice, Limonata, the Irish Car Bomb and the Ooh La La. Cute, but just a little dangerous cupcake.jpgCupcakes are the happiest food on earth.
I dare you to defy me on that. Wrapped in crinkly paper collars and
capped with a pastel poof of buttercream, they’re unabashedly adorable.
They come in dozens. And no one can pull off sprinkles and candy
glitter with the same panache.

But when it comes to taste, well,
that’s where things sometimes go horribly wrong. Dry, crumbly cake.
Greasy, fake frosting that leaves behind a room full of purple
fingerprints and blue teeth. Exactly the sort of thing that keeps
cupcake baker Andrea Ballus awake at night. Or rather up at 4am each
morning.

As owner of Sift, the Sonoma County’s first official cupcakery,
Ballus is dedicated to the art of killer cupcakes. With a baker’s dozen
(or so) flavors fresh made each day, she and her staff (of one) are
barely keeping up with demand. Not exactly surprising when at least
half the menu reads like a high-end cocktail list–Pink Champagne, Miami Vice, Limonata, the Irish Car Bomb and the Ooh La La. Cute, but just a little dangerous.

Using
non-traditional ingredients like Guiness Stout, champagne, green tea
and key lime pie filling, Ballus is elevating the cupcake to more than
a mere snack. It’s a little bit of pastry heaven.

The
long-time Bay Area resident recently returned from a stint in Las
Vegas, where cupcake shops have become all the rage with sweet-teethed
grown-ups. Inspired by the baking bug, she opened her Cotati shop in
mid-April. She shop has been reduced to crumbs nearly every day since.

Cupcakes
run $2.75 a piece, which may sound a bit shocking at first. But
consider the cost of morning croissant. Or a Starbuck’s latte. Cupcakes
are way better and they won’t make you nearly as jittery. Unless of
course, you eat twelve–which is exactly what BiteClub did (with a few
friends) after grabbing a dirty dozen from Sift ($30).

With a hearty shout of “Cupcake Tasting!”, we decimated a box in just under 15 minutes. Results as follows:

Handsdown Winner
Key Lime Bliss: Vanilla cake with key lime pie filling and key lime frosting

Car Casualty (meaning it never even made it back to the office, it was so dang good)
Miami Vice: Pina Colada cake with fresh strawberry frosting.

Most Surprising
The 50/50: Orange cake with cream cheese frosting (think Creamsicle)

Most fascinating to the guys
Ooh La La: Red velvet cake with cream cheese frosting. I won’t even try to figure that one out.

Most radically delish

Irish Car Bomb: Chocolate Guiness cake with Irish cream frosting.

Best for Last
With its unassuming white frosting, this little sneaker got left for last. But oh, how good it was.
Pink Champagne: Fresh raspberry cake with champagne frosting.

And the rest
Pinking of You: Vanilla cake with pink buttercream frosting
Bugsy: Carrot cake with cream cheese frosting
Limonata: Lemon cake with strawberry frosting
Showball: Coconut cake with cream cheese frosting
Chocolatease: Vanilla cake with chocolate frosting
Over the Moon: Chocolate cake with pink buttercream frosting

Sift
Cupcakery: 7582 Commerce Blvd., Cotati, 792.1681. Open Tuesday through
Friday from 7am to 6pm, Saturday 10am toi 5pm and Sunday noon to 5pm.
Closed Monday.

Bluegrass Bar and Grill (Closed)

Bluegrass BBQ in Sonoma
Bluegrass BBQ in Glen Ellen

RESTAURANT CLOSED
Any worries I may have harbored for the future of Bluegrass Bar and Grill–tucked away in what was once the ghostly quiet Jack London Village–melted away the second we turned into the parking lot. Jammed.
Several months in, the Southern BBQ spot has already hit its
stride, with reservations on Friday and Saturday night booked solid. And BiteClub isn’t a bit surprised.
The restaurant has been transformed into a light, airy spot with to-die-for outdoor seating,
huge windows overlooking the creek for indoor diners and an almost hypnotic view of the spinning mill wheel from the bar. Not to mention the whisky flights (see below for details).
But ambiance is only a small part of the equation. If the food isn’t rocking, then
forget it. Fortunately, the menu has some very solid contenders for the
restaurant’s assertion of “Best BBQ in Sonoma”, namely the St. Louis Ribs ($16.99 half).
These are a smoked and rubbed version, so the gloopy, gloppy is at a
minimum, though sauce is served on the side. They’re tender,
fall-off-the-bone tasty with just enough spice to be noticed. Not
enough to be offensive.
A close second is the Texas style brisket (($16.99),
also smoked and dry rubbed. Sliced up, there’s enough fat to keep the
meat moist and tasty. Not enough to be stomach-turning. Again, served
with a side of sweet, smokey sauce that puts control firmly in your
fingers.
Tasting through a good part of the menu, there seems to be synchronicity in most of the dishes,
including the sides. Flavors mostly meld well, not leaning too heavily
on spices or heat for flavor. Instead letting the natural flavors shine
through with an assist from smoke, complimentary sweetness and
well-considered spices.
Don’t make choosing your sides an exercise in frugality. Order liberally, starting with the smoked baked beans, hand-cut fries first, moving next to the insanely spicy Adobo mashed taters and apple mint coleslaw.
If you’re going to skip anything, pass on the bacon and egg potato
salad (which couldn’t stand up to the intense flavors of the BBQ) and grilled corn.
All main courses come with two accompaniments, so if you’re eating with
a pal (or several), you’ll likely get a chance to taste through most of
them. Portions are generous, but entirely reasonable.
Rotisserie chicken (which
is often a weak concession to non-red-meat-eaters) gets serious respect
here, moist and juicy, brined with herbs and citrus. Kudos as well for
the cornbread with honey butter that comes to the
table as soon as you’re seated. Studded with jalepenos, its a great way
to start the meal.
We found the sliders ($11.99)–one of
the most popular dishes–to be the only slight misstep on the menu. The
pulled pork slider was dry and uninspiring, with a waxy coat of white
cheddar. Brisket was slightly better, but again, the waxy white cheddar
is a real off-putter. I’d suggest reconsidering. We were also of mixed
opinions about the smoked pork nachos ($12.99) Piled skyscraper
high with pulled pork, salsa, roasted corn, cheese, beans, avocado and
sour cream, it’s questionably appealing to look at. It’s also a bit
difficult to navigate. Frankly, I enjoyed it, though the rest of the
group was a bit dubious.
For dessert, the Georgia peach crisp
($6.99)has returned to the menu. It’s made to order, but the hard
peaches (fresh frozen?) killed the homespun vibe. Hot apple fritters
($6.99) are a better bet. But for the money, I’d spend the calories and
cash on a whisky cocktail like the Man ‘O War. Um, which as I recall was really good and really strong. Things get fuzzy after that.
Damn good drink. Damn good BBQ.
The restaurant is currently open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Plans are in the works for lunch. Stay tuned. Bluegrass Bar and Grill,
14301 Arnold Dr, Glen Ellen 707-935-4488
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
(PREVIOUSLY)
Is there any decent BBQ in Sonoma County? BiteClub has asked that
question quite a few times now, and we never seem to come to consensus.
There are the occasional parking lot smokers, Red Rose Cafe
(which seems to cause a stink every time I bring it up) and the
occasional joint that ends up disappearing before we can get the sauce
off our faces.
Heck, even Napa’s got BarbersQ, Bounty Hunter and Busters, which kick our tri-tip to the curb. So what gives?
Chris and Jennifer Kennedy are fixing to fill the void with Bluegrass Bar and Grill which opened Tuesday night in Glen Ellen.
After a busy opening night, Chris confirmed that the preview menu
on their website is pretty accurate, with a mouth-watering lineup of
everything from hot links to St. Louis ribs, Texas brisket, rotisseried
chicken and pulled pork nachos. Sides keep the homestyle vibe alive:
Potato salad, beans, grilled corn, fries and cole slaw. Peach crisp got
a last minute boot (sadly, it was too much work for the kitchen), but
key lime pie and lemon bars are solid stand-ins.
And BiteClub
just got another reason to go: Whiskey tastings. Chris has about 20
Kentucky faves, from 23-year old Pappy Van Winkle to the always thrifty
Old Crow. Taste through several 1/2 shots (sorry, not the 23-year-old
stuff though) to get some serious perspective. Or a buzz. Your call.
The
spot’s always been a tough sell, with a number of restaurants
trying and failing at the somewhat remote Jack London Village. But hope
springs eternal for SoCo’s newest roadhouse BBQ spot. It’s yet to be
seen how the couple will pull of this ambitious undertaking, but
BiteClub’s got no doubt you’ll be out in force with bibs and forks in
hand.
(PS, Thanks garlicgrouton for the tip!)

Trisha’s Lumpia House

CLOSED
Lunch started like a bad Abbot and Costello skit.
“Let’s get halo halo,” my friend said.
“Yeah, uh, hi there.” Sometimes I mumble. Maybe she didn’t hear my earlier salutations.
“No, halo-halo,” she said.
“Hellooooooooo,” I say again, thinking, sheesh Mel, get a hearing aid.
“No, they have halo-halo!”
“Uh, okay.”
“It’s like a milkshake. You’ll like it,” she laughs.

Mmmmm. Milkshake. BiteClub enjoys milkshakes.

On cue, Karen, our bubbly cruise director of Filipino cuisine/waitress
sashays over. She has a giant smile, a wiggly, giggly way about her,
and describes everything on the menu at Trisha’s Lumpia House as “Really Good!” But aside from the fact that halo halo is really good, I’m not really following too much else she’s telling me. She does seem a little dubious about us actually drinking the stuff.
“Halo
halo!” arrives. Karen stands and watches Meloni and I look at the
milkshake imposter like the cautious Midwestern girls we actually are.“You like?” I’m pretty sure she’s making fun of us.
Hmmm. Okay. Yes, it does look kind of like
a milkshake. Except with a whole lot of ice on top and floaties
swimming around at the foot of the glass. What else can we do but dive
in and pull out the slimy treasure? Yum. Sweet ice cream, crunchy ice,
mangoes, coconut and…crunch…uh, is that a garbanzo bean?
“You
like it?” Karen’s smiling and giggling again as Mel and I pick through
the Filipino milkshake like archaeologists. We pull out and identify
the shaved ice, diced mangos, strings of coconut meat, sweet red beans,
garbanzos, ice cream and sweet gelatinous blobs of kaong (also called sugar palm fruit). Yes, we do like it. Minus the beans. Extra kaong. Karen is happy.
Going Pinoy
is the name of the game at Trisha’s Lumpia House, Sonoma County’s first
(as far as anyone we talked to knows) Filipino restaurant. Hidden in
Petaluma’s G&G Shopping Center, Karen tells us that much of the
clientele are curious, um, obviously non-Filipino eaters like us and
she’s always happy to walk folks through the menu. She locks us onto Pork Adobo, lumpia (think fried spring rolls), pancit noodles (think Pad Thai or chowmein) and Sitaw at Kalabasa (long beans and squash in coconut milk).
It
doesn’t take long for the newly initiated to figure out who’s
contributed to the mash-up of flavors from these steamy Pacific
Islands: China, Indonesia and Spain–mostly. So, like any good food
adventurer, you’ll want to dive right in. Start off with lumpia, ($3.25) crispy egg rolls similar to those you’d find at any Chinese restaurant, served with sweet chili dipping sauce. Pork adobo ($8.95) is a must-have dish,
marinated in soy sauce, garlic and vinegar. It’s the unofficial
national dish of the Philippines and one of the first things kids learn
to cool (kind of like your five year old making peanut butter and
jelly).
Keep going with House Pancit,($.7.95) rice
sticks and bean threads (clear, thin noodles) tossed with veggies and
meat with a squeeze of lime. The restaurant also offers tradition
Filipino plates of Bistek (Filipino beef steak), Afritada (a
tomato-based pork and vegetable dish), oxtail in peanut sauce, and
soup-based dishes like Nilaga, Sinigang Baboy and Hipon. Party trays of most dishes, as well as menudo and pork belly are also available. Oh, and yes, there is a Trisha. She just didn’t happen to be there when we visited.
The
tiny restaurant, with only a few tables and the obviously casual staff
can be a bit intimidating at first, but when Karen’s around, the place
warms up quickly, with everyone chatting between tables. Check out what
your neighbors are eating and ask lots of questions. Just don’t fill
up, because it’s worth saving room for dessert. Karen’s proud of the biko
she frequently makes (she only rarely has kitchen duties), a sweet
sticky rice in coconut syrup, along with flan and, of course, a nice
big glass of halo-halo. With beans or without.
Trisha’s Lumpia House, MOVED TO 443 Dutton Ave., Suite 2,  Santa Rosa, 527-0160. Open Mon-Sat., 11am to 8pm, Sun 11am to 3pm.