Since Traverso’s closed last November, finding a decent prosciutto sandwich has been a challenging proposition.
Not that you can’t find one. You can. But without soul. Too much bread. Rubbery mozzarella. Watery tomatoes. Unholy basil.
Consider the resurrection of the Traverso’s Caprese Sandwich a spring miracle. Sliced-to-order Italian prosciutto with a salty, nutty flavor. Fresh whole milk mozzarella. Basil aioli with lettuce, tomatoes and torn basil on freshly baked bread($7.99).
Brought back to life by two former employees of the Italian deli, it’s one of several familiar sandwiches on the menu of Bill and Deb’s Downtown Deli.
Also on the menu: The Papa Rico ($5.99). Thin slices of salami with mayo, mustard, peppers, Swiss and tomatoes. Or The Hoagie with Mortadella, salami and ham with mozzarella, provolone and Italian dressing ($7.99). Sound familiar?
Let me say they may even be better than the original.
Behind the counter, sandwich vets Bill Thompson (10 years at Traverso’s) and Debbie Schulze (6 years) recently took over Mom & Pop’s Sandwich Shop (formerly known as Mr. Pickles). They’re eager to make some changes to the downtown deli that’s seen plenty of turnover — bringing in fresh ravioli, potato salad and Italian salami. But to keep everyone happy, they’re also sticking with some of former owners’ sandwiches along with a “Make Your Own” sandwich menu. And cookies still come complimentary with every order.
Though it will take decades to come even close to Traverso’s ground-into-the-floorboards history, it’s nice to know a little part of the legacy lives on.
Bill and Debbie’s Downtown Deli, 621 4th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 636-2200
Though the accepted fact that 90 percent of restaurants fail within the first year may be overstated, only about 30 percent of restaurants last for ten years or more, according to research. Here in Sonoma County, especially after the devastation of the recession, there do seem to be fewer and fewer toques still standing.
But what about the restaurants that keep chugging on, year after year, decade after decade? They quietly simmer away becoming our go-tos for weeknight dinners, birthdays and anniversaries, regardless of our momentary dalliances with flashy new eateries. Ingrained in our hearts and communities, they’re comfortable constants. Pity the chef who takes a favorite dish off the menu or tries to reinvent himself.
Ever-present, here are ten restaurants that have stood strong for a decade (or more), weathering ups and downs, reminding us year after year that they’re still around for a reason — and what it’s taken to keep themselves on top.
Jimtown Store, opened 1991
Carrie Brown had to drink a whole lot of inventory before Jimtown found its niche. “We had all these great ideas about what we wanted to do, but we knew from the get go that the customers would figure it out for us,” said Brown, who opened the Alexander Valley outpost with her late husband, John Werner on a warm Memorial Day more than 20 years ago. That meant trying to sell wine from France and fancy cheese — something locals didn’t immediately embrace. “We wound up drinking all the wine. All that beautiful cheese languished,” she said. Transforming from a deli into a cafe and grocery, and ultimately a Wine Country icon, Brown’s most loyal following has always been from the locals who watched as the New York couple renovated the dilapidated grounds and eagerly adopting the store as their “clubhouse”. “They’ve just been overwhelming in the support and love,” said Brown. “They really saved me,” she said of the difficult time after her husband died. Living on the grounds, however, sometimes makes for close quarters and exotic trips make for fresh inspiration. “I like to travel and see the wider world, then bring what I’ve learned back to Jimtown,” she said. 6706 California 128, Healdsburg.
Jeff Mall of Zin (Kent Porter/PD)
Zin Bistro, opened 1999
Chef-owner Jeff Mall was doing farm-to-table long before it had the kind of foodie buzz it gets today. Now a favorite spot for new American comfort food — from grits and fried chicken to Mexican beer-batted green beans — Mall knew early on that a kitchen garden was key to great dining. “I wanted to grow my own food,” said Mall, who owns Eastside Farm, a source for much of the restaurant’s produce. But fans may also find it interesting to know that it was wasabi that first flavored his vision. A former chef at SF’s Asian-fusion powerhouse, Hawthorne Lane, Mall said he used to sprinkle the Japanese horseradish on nearly everything. “We haven’t done that at Zin for ten years,” he laughs. What he learned the hard way? “At 29 you really don’t know anything about running a restaurant,” Mall said, of the tender age he opened Zin. “I would tell myself to listen –listen to what your customers like and don’t like. Just because you like something, doesn’t mean the public will.” What he’d tell aspiring restaurateurs: “Don’t be intimidated by projects that seem too big or daunting.” Moving from buying bread from bakeries to doing all their bread in-house was a major hurdle he overcame several years ago, but how he says, “It is better than any we had ever bought in the past.” 344 Center Street, Healdsburg.
Zazu, opened 2001
Chef-owners John Stewart and Duskie Estes accidentally hit on three of the biggest trends in food over the last five years: raising their own food, curing meats and making bacon. As trend-setters, they’ve been courted for adverts for California tourism, on the Food Network (multiple times), national morning shows and reigned as The King and Queen of Pork after winning Cochon 555’s pork olympics in 2011. “We got lucky moving to Sonoma County. We had chickens in the backyard, a gateway into urban farming that led to sheep, turkeys and pigs and growing as much as we could to get a better product,” said Stewart. Inspired by those tastes, the couple were inspired to work with local ranchers, using the whole animal and ultimately making their own salumi. Salumi (and a stint with Mario Batali) led Stewart to found Black Pig Bacon — artisanal bacon that ships throughout the West at a rate of 5,000 pounds per month. But it isn’t all luck that keeps their restaurants popular. Instrumental in redefining modern Sonoma County cuisine, they’re respected by the food community for their farm-to-table walk and talk. Plus, there’s never a dull menu at their constantly evolving restaurant. 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa.
The Girl and the Fig, opened 1997
“Be careful what you wish for,” is the advice of chef-owner Sondra Bernstein, whose small cafe has turned into a mini-empire of three restaurants, a catering operation, two cookbooks and a line of fig condiments. The original cafe in Glen Ellen moved to Sonoma in 2000, but continues to show up on “best of” lists as a top spot for typified Wine Country casual cuisine and Rhone-only wine list. Her newest restaurant, Estate, let’ Bernstein and exec chef John Toulze explore their Italian side with house cured meats, pasta and local produce. Their next adventure: A Kickstarter.com-funded mixed-used space called Suite D that will offer classes, tastings, coking classes and private dinners. 10 West Spain Street, Sonoma.
La Gare, opened 1979
Roger Praplan relishes the fact that he’s serving the grandchildren of some of La Gare’s early customers. Praplan’s parents were early entrepreneurs in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square, purchasing their lot for $25,000 in 1977. Though dining trends have come and gone during the restaurant’s 30-plus years, Praplan stays laser-focused on the traditional French cuisine that’s made the restaurant a popular birthday, anniversary and holiday restaurant for decades. “People always want to reinvent. Just readjust, and stick to your vision,” said Praplan. 208 Wilson St., Santa Rosa.
(Petite) Syrah, opened 1999
Last year chef-owner Josh Silvers took a leap of faith, reinventing his longtime restaurant into a small plates eatery. Though critically successful, the public didn’t embrace it. “People were having a hard time understanding the concept of what we were trying to do,” said Silvers. An adept adapter, Silvers is now bringing back his entrees and tasting menus. “Our job is to make people happy. We’re selling an experience,” he said. For years, that experience was as a spot for rare duck breast, foie gras and Dungeness crab cakes, classic Wine Country fare he felt he just couldn’t take off the menu. The new menu brings together favorites from the new and old menus — duck breast to a 63-degree egg salad. Meanwhile, his wood-fired oven and bar restaurant, Jackson’s, lets Silvers and his staff continue to innovate with more casual cuisine. 205 5th Street, Santa Rosa.
Willi’s Wine Bar, opened 2002
“I was a late bloomer,” said Mark Stark, chef-owner of Willi’s Wine Bar. Working in kitchens large and small for nearly 17 years, including as catering chef for Lulu’s, the potential pitfalls weren’t lost on him. “That’s the scary part. I knew what I was getting into,” said the now-owner of four restaurants (with a fifth in development). His own evolution has been from complicated ingredients to letting the food shine. “Simplicity comes to mind a lot. My style in the beginning was to throw more ingredients at things. But now, the excitement is how simple I can make a plate and make people really enjoy it,” he said. Bravas, opening this summer, exemplifies the move toward simple Spanish flavors. What he’d do if he were starting out today: “Work in a big kitchen and learn the business systems. If you can take the work out of that part, you can focus on food and the part you love to do.” That, and ignore mean Web chatter about themselves. “Bloggers can cut so deep. People have no idea how hard it is to do what we do.” 4404 Old Redwood Highway, Santa Rosa.
Restaurant at Madrona Manor, opened 1981
As Healdsburg has grown up, so has once-unassuming restaurant inside this Victorian bed and breakfast. In 1999, when Bill and Trudi Konrad purchased the property, they hired Chef Jesse Mallgren. An alum of Gary Danko’s at Chateau Souverain and SF’s legendary Stars, Mallgren grew up in Sonoma County. Though he defines his cuisine as first and foremost local and seasonally-inspired, about 10 years ago Mallgren began pushing boundaries with molecular gastronomy techniques that include using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream. “We use the best techniques with the best products,” he said. What he credits with the restaurant’s continued success: Creative control in the kitchen. Free of financial and time constraints of many other chefs, Mallgren can channel his energy into a showcase tasting menu. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg.
John Ash & Co, opened 1980
It’s impossible to talk about Sonoma’s longstanding food scene without paying homage to its patriarch, John Ash. What began as an idea became a revolution — using nearby produce, meats and cheeses to create wholesome, ethical, lush food and pairing it with great local wines. Though it seems almost quaint now, Ash was an early pioneer at his Montgomery Village restaurant. Though Ash is no longer in the kitchen of his eponymous restaurant, some of the top chefs and winemakers (Jeffrey Madura, Dan Kosta, Michael Browne) are alums of the historic eatery. Now headed by Chef Tom Schmidt, the restaurant still holds close its original vision. 4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa.
Hana Japanese, opened 1990
Tokyo native Ken Tominaga brings a knowledge of authentic Japanese cuisine to Sonoma County. At his Rohnert Park restaurant, you’ll find fish flown in from Japan, along with native seafood and hard-to-find delicacies. A strict aesthetic precision infuses every dish — from tempura and steamed egg custards to steaming dashi and lush nigiri. Having grown up between Santa Rosa and Tokyo, Tominaga brings aspects of both cultures to his food, making it a favorite of local chefs, visiting Japanese and local foodies. 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park.
K & L Bistro, opened 2001
Chef-owners Karen and Lucas Martin were among the first Bay Area restaurateurs to receive a Michelin star when the guidebooks made their debut in 2006, then big news for the tiny Sebastopol bistro. Through economic ups an downs, the menu has remained focused on classic French favorites including onion soup gratinee, duck leg confit, sole meuniere and their much-loved French fries. 119 South Main Street, Sebastopol
Underwood/Willow Wood, opened 1995, 2002
Everyone thought Matthew Greenbaum was crazy to open the cozy Willow Wood cafe in sleepy Graton — a town better known for the restaurants that closed there than opened. But the rustic eatery charmed its way into national magazines and critical acclaim serving up hearty country fare (polenta, roast chicken and breakfast scrambles, fresh-baked bread) with big city panache. In 2002, Greenbaum and his partner opened the boho-Parisian cafe, Underwood directly across the street seven years later. The tapas-style menu, paired wines from his Green Valley neighbors, continues to make Graton a food-destination for locals and tourists. 9113 Graton Rd., 9020 Graton Rd., Graton.
Farmhouse Inn, re-opened 2001
Siblings Joe and Catherine Bartolomei began revamping this historic Forestville property more than 10 years ago, and are still at it. Longtime chef Steve Litke made Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit his trademark, but in March 2011 turned the menu on its ear by offering a luxe prix fixe (ie: langoustines with yuzu, miso glazed bone marrow) with wine pairings from master sommelier Geoffrey Kruth. Looking forward, the restaurant is branching out into making its own wine (available in May) with buzzy Ryme Cellars and growing much of their own produce on the property. 7871 River Road, Forestville.
More restaurants that have stood the test of time… Cafe Europe, 1992
Chef-owner Herbert Zacher, who started his local career at Little Bavaria in 1982, has the market cornered on traditional German food in Santa Rosa. Comforting spatzle, schnitzel and wild boar make for a loyal clientele. 104 Calistoga Road, Santa Rosa.
Bistro Ralph, opened 1992; Cricklewood, opened 1976; Omelette Express, opened 1978; Union Hotel, opened 1879.
Have some old favorites you want to add? Continue the conversation in the comments below…
Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms at Tara Firma Farms brunch, April 15
Joel Salatin, the internationally renowned guru of Beyond Organic Local Sustainable Farming is coming to speak about the importance of diverse, beyond organic farms that also feature education!! Yes, the Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms from Food Inc. and Omnivores Dilemma fame, author of Folks, This Ain’t Normal, You Can Farm, and Salad Bar Beef.
This event is a fundraiser launching Tara Firma Farms Institute, a nonprofit organization to further the mission of education regarding Real Food Farming, here at Tara Firma Farms. Please take this opportunity to support the growth of knowledge/action in our communities through classes, events and programs for all ages.
You will be served a beautiful brunch consisting of Tara Firma Farms eggs, meat, vegetables- as well as some side dishes provided by local sponsors.
Joel will speak during brunch and regular ticket holders will have an opportunity to take a farm tour after the brunch.
Special Thanks to our Sponsors -Good Earth Natural Foods, Summit Bank, Petaluma Hills Brewing Company, West Marin Edible Adventures, AgLocal, Buddha Belly Honey, and Clover Organic Farms.
Food Sponsors include Petaluma Hills Brewing Company, Buddha Belly Honey, Nana’s All Natural Granola, Mc Evoy Olive Oil, and Clover Organic Farms.
There is another event being held by Marin Organic for Joel’s newest book. http://marinorganic.org/events.php
If you are interested in sponsoring this event, sitting at Joel’s table and walking with Joel and Tara on the farm after the talk, we need a good handful of donors in the $500, $1,000 or $2,500. If someone donates $2,500 they will be sitting next to Joel Salatin at brunch!
If you would like to be a sponsor and make a tax-deductible donation to support the work of Tara Firma Farms Institute please contact-pam@tarafirmafarms.com
Chef Maria Vieages and Chef Aaron Hakeem team up for the first Indulgence Pop-up dinner at Omelette Express in Santa Rosa, April 7, 2012.
The menu paired Hakeem’s Lebanese family recipes, including dolmas, kebbeh and chicken pastilla with Vieages’ southern favorites of fried green tomatoes, gumbo and bread pudding.
Macarons at Crisp Bakeshop in Sonoma. Heather irwin
Bakeries are so easy to love. All butter cream, sugar and chocolate, they speak to the caloric enabler in each of us. Just one bite, it says. You deserve this, it whispers. And of course, you do. But only if the payoff is worth the price.
Crisp Bake Shop is more than just a pretty case. More than stacks of sea salt chocolate chip cookies, homemade vanilla marshmallows, bacon peanut toffee, white chocolate macarons, green tea cupcakes and brown butter cake with salted creme fraiche caramel and vanilla bean buttercream as soft and light as a lover’s lips.
This is no sugar shack dalliance. Crisp Bake Shop is the bakery you take home to mom.
Opened by chef-partners Moaya Scheiman (Stars, Ramekins, Tamal Vino y Mas SF) and Andrea Koweek (Ramkins instruction, Keller assistant at Per Se, French Laundry, catering director at girl and the fig), the Sonoma bakery rethinks what it is to be a bakery. Sweet and savory are mixed with abandon; cookies are taken as seriously as wedding cakes; egg salad sandwiches cohabitate with chorizo-studded scones; breads are baked fresh each day, but baguettes are banned.
“I couldn’t do that,” said Scheiman, paying homage to the sanctified Artisan Bakers’ location they now occupy. A fan of the longtime bakery (which moved out last September and is now only wholesale), he said, “It would just be a losing battle.”
So instead he makes Kaiser rolls, Philly rolls and other comforting, egg bread of his youth.
“We didn’t want to do a restaurant or a food truck. We wanted to give the community something different,” said Scheiman. So the couple wakes up at 4 am to bake whatever strikes their imagination.
Their latest creation: A chocolate stout cupcake using next door neighbor Sonoma Brewery’s stout, topped with Kahlua Buttercream and bacon peanut toffee. Yup, it’s even better than it sounds. But cupcakes are just a training ground for their bigger aspirations.
But the bakery’s bread and butter, so to speak, are cakes. As a former catering director in Sonoma, Koweek felt guilty sending locals to Santa Rosa or Napa for their wedding and special event cakes.
With a third partner, they’re turning out towering layer cakes in decidedly unusual flavors like coconut passion fruit, buttermilk orange with lemon buttercream and lime curd; malted cake with Nutella chocolate filling and malt balls or apple spice with butterscotch cream.
Open from 6am to 2pm daily, the small shop has an 8-person table for dining in or drinking coffee or will send you on your way with a neat brown box full of goodies.
“We’re just trying to make people happy,” said Koweek.
With flavors as big as their imagination, Crisp’s future should be a cakewalk.
Crisp Bake Shop, 720 West Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 933-9999.
Bravas (Spanish for “wild”) will be the Spanish-style Tapas bar replacing Ravenous in Healdsburg.
Taking over are Mark and Terri Stark, owners of Willi’s Wine Bar, Willi’s Seafood, Stark’s Steak and Seafood and Monti’s. Inspired by a trip to Barcelona, Chef Mark Stark plans to incorporate iconic Spanish ingredients like Iberico hams and piquillo peppers into his own style of Wine Country cuisine.
Fried egg, bacon and blue grilled cheese from the Farmer’s Wife in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Fried egg, bacon and blue grilled Cheese from the Farmer's Wife, voted Best in Show
The First Annual ‘Wich Hunt at Battle of the Brews pitted an amazing 21 restaurants head-to-head for the title of Best Sandwich in Sonoma County. Held during the Craft Cup at the ever-popular Battle of the Brews on March 31, 2012 this was no lunch meat on Wonderbread competition. Chefs brought their A-game, ranging from housemade pastrami and chocolate pairings to mixing up the competition with exotic burgers topped with chicharrones, a stealthy mix of cheeses and even a surprise beer ice cream entry!
Not without a few snafus (including power outages, cooking on griddles and having eager munchers waiting for samples while preparing competition ‘wiches), the chefs persevered. Judging the sandwiches on merits including creativity, presentation and of course, flavor, the all-star panel of Chef John Ash, restaurant consultant and foodist Clark Wolf, the Bohemian’s Gabe Meline, sandwich restaurateur Ike Shehadeh and food personality Laurie Figone ate and graded for more than an hour.
Said Wolf, “Twenty one out of twenty one of these sandwiches were incredible.” BiteClub concurred, snagging bites between bringing entries to the stage and managing chefs. Not a stinker in the bunch.
But not everyone could win (which is why I couldn’t bear to judge myself). So here you have The Official Winners…
– Best in Show, The Farmer’s Wife: Farm Fried Egg, Bacon & Blue, Lyonnaise Grilled Cheese Sandwich on Full Circle Organic Sourdough (Sorry, kids. There’s no restaurant yet, but watch for her in the Barlow or contact her for catering).
– Best Hot, Superburger: Myer Ranch Montana Red Angus Patty, Horseradish Cheddar and Sonoma Jack,Garlic Crimini Mushroom Beef Au Jus for Dipping, Pureed Artichoke and Roasted Garlic Mayo, garlic butter toasted egg wash hamburger bun.
– Best Cold, Street Eatz: The ice cream beer ‘wich with Lagunitas beer ice cream and buttered toast bread
– Best Ethnic, Boathouse Sushi: Pork banh mi
– Best use of veggies, Pearson and Co: Pulled pork sandwich with grilled vegetables and coleslaw
– Cheesiest Sandwich, Hopmonk: Grilled cheese and tomato soup
– Best pairing, Awful Falafel: Lamb Schwarma and hummus
– People’s Choice Award, Petite Syrah: Pork belly slider. Runner-up, Dogs from Chicago: Chili dog.
Check out the gallery below to see some of the other entrants and their sandwiches – -from Lagunitas pastrami to chicken-skin sandwiches
Whatever your persuasion, budget or taste, there’s an invitation to the bountiful brunches of Easter on April 8…
Most Extravagantabulous Easter Brunch: Sante at Sonoma Mission Inn Money may not be able to buy happiness, but it can buy you access to a brunch whose sheer magnitude and luxury will at least put a smile of contentment on your face for a few days. The Michelin-starred resort restaurant gilds every lily with an all-you-can-eat spread that includes jumbo shrimp cocktail, Loch Duart salmon, foie gras wrapped in bacon, charcuterie, artisan cheeses and six salads to start. Chefs carving stations wield four kinds of smoked fish with caviar; roast prime rib, and leg of lamb. Toques make omelets and classic crepes to order. Entrees include braised short ribs, classic Benedicts, salmon, mushroom ravioli with black truffle in addition to grilled vegetable platters, a bread station and more than 20 desserts (croissant bread pudding, passionfruit cheesecake, chocolate strawberries, macaroons, fruit “martinis”). A hefty $89 pp, $44.50 for children keeps it classy, but even high rollers may need to loosen their belts a few notches to accommodate the bounty of good eats. Live entertainment, Monsieur Easter Bunny, and egg hunts 10am to 2pm. Reservations required. 100 Boyes Blvd, Sonoma, 939-2415.
Most Southern-Inspired Brunch: Rocker Oysterfellers
$28 prix fixe menu includes two courses. Choose from pimento cheese and crackers, blacked gulf prawns with minted pea dip, kale salad, tarragon deviled eggs, cinnamon and currant scones with sorghum butter, quiche with grilled ramps, asparagus, trumpet mushrooms and fromage blanc; lamb tostada, Southern Eggs bennedit (biscuit, braised collard greens, Tasso ham, poached eggs; blueberry and Meyer lemon french toast, chicken fried duck steak with onion gravy. 10am to 3pm, Easter eggs hidden on the patio for the kids. Gin fizzes and cocktails for the grown-ups. 14415 Highway One, Valley Ford.
Best Spot for an Outdoor Brunch: French Garden Easter Buffet includes beet salad with candied walnuts, grilled green and white asparagus, smoked salmon, deviled eggs, Benedicts, French toast, sea bass with orange beurre blanc, roasted prime rib, honey glazed pork loin, assorted desserts and pastries. $38 pp adults, $19 children; kids 5 and under free. 10am to 3pm, 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 824-2030.
Best High Roller Brunch in Santa Rosa: John Ash & Co. Get someone with deep pockets to treat you to this top-notch holiday spread. Instead of a buffet, Chef Tom does a hearty Easter a la carte menu with some of the restaurant’s best bets: Dungeness crab fritters, Key lime blintzes with strawberry compote, Liberty Duck hash, cinnamon walnut French toast, eggs Benedict with blood orange Hollandaise (add Dungeness crab cakes for $10), sous-vide Loch Duart Salmon; fried Gleason Ranch chicken and waffles, grilled lamb, chicken fried steak with sausage gravy. Entrees from $15 to $29, brunch from 10am to 3pm. John Ash and Co., 4350 Barnes Rd,. Santa Rosa, 575.7350. Reservations strongly recommended.
Best Student-Chef Brunch: CIA Greystone For the second year, the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena will features a prix fixe Easter brunch prepared by chefs training to work in the country’s top restaurants (in addition to the regular menu). Roasted beets with goat cheese; salmon with lemon roasted garlic vinaigrette, grass-fed beef strip loin, brioche bread pudding. $52 tasting menu, 11:30am to 9pm, children’s menu available. 2555 Main Street, St. Helena, 967-1010.
Brunch in the Country That’s Close to the City: Zazu Zazu Restaurant and Farm is just a few miles from downtown Santa Rosa, but this country roadhouse feels a world away, surrounded by farms and vineyards. Hop on in for their $39 pp prix fixe that includes sour cherry stick buns, baked ricotta french toast, a “blushing” waffle with pink lady apples and brown sugar gelato, smoked salmon and asparagus tart, biscuits and gravy with Black Pig maple sausage, steak and eggs, Black Pig bacon burger. Sides: maple glazed donut and bacon “jimmies”, crispy Yukon spuds. 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 523-4814.
Wildest Easter Brunch: Safari West Hunt for Mr. Hare in the wilds of Safari West after brunch in the Savannah Cafe. The six-foot bunny is on the trail of his old rival, Mr. Tortoise and will leave Carrot Clues along the way. 10am, 1:30pm, Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa, (707) 579-2551. $68 adults, $35 for children.
Best Riverside Easter Brunch: Tolay Sonoma County Sheraton
Easter buffet spread prepared by Danny Mai, Executive Chef of Sheraton Petaluma’s Tolay Restaurant. The Easter Bunny awaits you to feast on traditional omelet, eggs benedict, Hobbs applewood smoked bacon and prime rib with truffle oil. $49, kids under 12, $19. 745 Baywood Dr., Petaluma, 283-2888.
More Easter Eats
Bluewater Bistro: Easter egg hunt and brunch in Bodega. Champagne brunch includes Benedicts, potatoes, bacon, maple sausage, salmon, prawns, ham, lamb, chicken salad, chocolate dipped strawberries. $30 adults, kids under 12, $12. 10am to 3pm. 2130 Blue Heron Drive, Bodega Bay, 875-3513. Reservations required.
Champagne Brunch at the Flamingo: Terrace Grille hosts an extensive buffet with salads, fruit, Costeaux breads, eggs, sausage, cheese blintz, baked tilapia, orange chicken with pineapple, chilled prawns, honey glazed ham, lamb, cheesecake and assorted fruit tarts. Easter Bunny makes a special guest appearance, and champagne is on the house. $35 per person, $16 or kids 5-11. 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 523-4745.
Patisserie Angelica: Easter Tea on Thursday April 5, Friday, April 6 from 11am to 4pm, 827-7998. Almond apricot, chocolate truffle or Meyer Lemon Egg Cake, $40; Banana Cream Pie with Caramel and mile-high whipped cream; macarons, marshmallows and more treats. Friday, Saturday 10am to 5pm, 6821 Laguna Parkway, Sebastopol.
Dry Creek Kitchen: “Craft Your Own” three course prix fixe ($49) with dishes including chilled carrot soup, Ahi crudo, Dungeness crab crepes, honey glazed ham, lamb, Meyer lemon french toast, English toffee nut bread and butter pudding, chocolate orange cake. 11am to 2pm. Three course lamb dinner tasting menu, 6-9pm. 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 431-0330.
Best Help The Community Post-Easter Brunch: Ceres @ Zazu
On April 14, Ceres Project teen volunteers hit the kitchens making banana coconut muffis, bacon and cheddar cornbread, artichoke and goat cheese tart, salmon BLT, steak bruscheta, salad with sour cherry vinaigrette. $39 pp, including Taylor Maid coffee or tea. 100% of the proceeds and tips go to Sebastopol’s Ceres project. 523-4814 for reservations.
You know you’re in the presence of an epic burger when your hungry teenager gives up in defeat halfway through. Clue two: You can’t open your mouth wide enough to stuff in the double-patty behemoth before you.
Some call it parental bonding. We call it family power-scarfing. Either way, the burgers are better than ever at the newly re-opened Ozzie’s Grill (799 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa, 538-07775).
The thirty-year old neighborhood grill closed in November, changing hands to two former fans, Scott Diaz and Andrew Simontacchi in January. After a interior rehab (it also looks and smells better than ever), they’ve brought back the old-school vibe and improved on the menu.
Best bet: The Ozzie’s Ultimate Burger ($10.75) that’s a kitchen sink of a meal with two patties, bacon, pepper jack and cheddar cheeses, jalapenos, avocado and onions. All on a sesame seed bun.
We call fail, however, at the crumbly buns that all but dissolve at the prospect of holding together so much meaty goodness. A two-napkin burger becomes a five-napkin lap-hazard.
Less hearty appetites can go for smaller versions with everything from mushrooms to ortega chilis. Also on the menu are seven hot dogs variations (chili cheese, bacon, corn), along with fish and chips, and classic sandwiches like the Rueben, chicken club, tuna melt and BLT. Crinkle fries — long an Ozzie’s staple — harken back to fond lunchroom memories. A chocolate malt, made with real ice cream, is big enough to share with your steady. Or your kid. Either way.
What’s old is new again at Ozzies. Just bring a few extra napkins, a hearty appetite and a few teenagers to eat your leftovers.
Ozzie’s Grill, 799 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa, 538-0775.
Around $10,000 in the case of Sonoma County’s Awful Falafel. And that’s where you come in.
Local chef Gabe Nahas is among millions of of entrepreneurs using the web to secure micro-donations of anywhere from $5 to $5,000 from friends, family and well-wishers to get their business off the ground. Referred to as crowdfunding, sites like Kickstarter.com and GoFundMe.com allow anyone to raise money for a cause by gathering small amounts of money — usually donations of $25 or so — online.
Nahas, who has worked for top area chefs including Petite Syrah’s Josh Silvers and Zazu’s Duskie Estes and John Stewart, has spent years planning his Middle Eastern kitchen on wheels. “I’ve been cooking since I was 14 and I’ve always wanted to open my own restaurant. We decided to take the food truck route, ” said Nahas. (Oh, and the name? Gabe says there aren’t many English words that rhyme with Falafel and like his menu — which features everything from kebobs and shawerma to camel meat — is about not taking food too seriously. The falafel won’t actually be awful).
Slated to hit the roads of Sonoma County this April, Nahas sunk most of his savings into the purchase of a converted 1984 Chevy P30 several months ago. But it still needs a generator, paint, a special fire extinguisher, commissary rent, insurance and additional repairs. So Nahas went to the web.
In just three days, he raised $345 with personal donations of between $20 and $100. The payoff was that those supporters could see where the money went instantly when Nahas posted a picture of his new fire extinguisher, purchased with donations.
Donators also get the satisfaction of special perks for their donations. $50 gets a meet-and-greet and a meal for two on the truck; $100 a meal for four; $500 a dinner for four at your door, and anyone willing to donate $10,000 gets “just about anything” including cooking lessons from the chef, a multi-course meal and “even camel rides in your backyard!”
Okay, so maybe camel rides are a bit far-fetched. But having a community of eaters chip in a few dollars to get another local food business the jump-start it needs? Delicious.
