Celeb Salumi @ Ramekins


There Will Be Meat, Let’s Talk and Taste Salumi with Marcia Gagliardi and Peter Temkin

June 15, 6:30-9pm, Ramekins
$75

The North Bay salumi scene is rife with rock stars: John Stewart of Black Pig, John Toulze of girl and the fig, Dino Bugica of Diavola and Tyler Rodde and Curtis Di Fede of Oenotri in Napa. From coppa to bresaola, these chefs have made it their mission to create authentic cured meats that rival those of Italy.

On Friday, hang out with food writer Marcia Gagliardi and Peter Temkin (Showdogs, Foreign Cinema SF) as they discuss and taste through a variety of artisan meats.You’ll learn about the history of different styles of cured meats, how to pronounce some of the more challenging names, and sample from some secret stashes of celeb salumists.

Get ready to become an expert on this very popular (and delicious) craft.

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Bovolo moving

Big news out of Healdsburg — John Stewart of Bovolo says they will be leaving their downtown Healdsburg location on the plaza this weekend. After seven years in the space, which opened inside the failed Plaza Farms, then transformed into a Copperfield’s bookstore, they’re ready to relocate.

The new Bovolo will be located inside Davis Family Vineyards’ tasting room at 52 Front St., edging the river, beginning next week (6/18/2012)

Stewart, who also owns Zazu Restaurant + Farm and Black Pig Meat with wife, Duskie Estes, says they’ll changing the format slightly, staying open for dinners in high season, and scaling back a bit during the slower winters. They’ll still have plenty of John’s salumis, along with salads and sandwiches, but pizzas may have to wait a bit, since they won’t have the pizza ovens at the new space.

Stay tuned for more details.

Twist opening in Forestville

Another opening in Forestville on the horizon…

Twist, a bistro/diner is slated to open in early July in the former Aioli Deli location. In the kitchen is Chef Jeff Young, who locals may know from his years as culinary director/chef at Alexander Valley Vineyards and prior to that, Chateau Souverain and Tre Scalini in Healdsburg. AVV’s Toni Echols will partner in the venture.

“We’ve been working on this since May 1,” said Young. The interior has been gutted to include an L-shaped counter with room for about 12 inside in addition to patio seating. The restaurant will serve breakfast and Sunday brunch to start, adding lunch service with upscale sandwiches like a “fried calamari roll” inspired by the lobster roll, entree salads, homemade pasta and other dishes inspired by Young’s interest in locally-sourced world cuisine.

“We’re changing from an upscale deli to an ‘eatery’,” Young said.

Recently, it was announced that Canneti would take over the former Mosaic restaurant this fall.

Tlayuda Oaxacan Pizzas


Do you tlayuda?
Often referred to as a Mexican pizza, these Oaxacan specialties are crispy flour tortillas topped with a schmear of refried beans, lettuce, carnitas, Mexican cheese, avocado and, if you’re lucky, a dribble of pork lard. Unless you’re a native, they’ll usually ask before adding the lard, but insiders know to ask for “asiento”.

Feeling adventurous? Try it at Tacos Carrenos, a taco truck parked at 5503 Old Redwood Highway in Santa Rosa. Tlayuda are $10.99 each, but big enough to share. You can also find tlayuda at Agave Mexican Restaurant, 1063 Vine St., Healdsburg.

(Thanks, Emily, for finding this terrific spot! Got a spot you’d like me to check out? Email me at heather@biteclubeats.com)

Napa News: Rotisserie Closes, Ubuntu in Limbo, Quixote for Sale

Ubuntu
Quixote Winery
Quixote Winery

Much ado about Napa with three major shakeups reported this week. First up is the official shutter of celebrity chef Tyler Florence’s Rotisserie and Wine, according to Inside Scoop.The restaurant lasted only a year, going on “hiatus” last winter after several critical pans, a failing grade from the health department and the early departure of former Ubuntu chef, Jeremy Fox.

And on the subject of Ubuntu–the much-lauded vegetarian restaurant that also went on hiatus last winter–the restaurant may be changing changing hands. Grubstreet leaked the news that Terra and Ame owners Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani are in discussions to take over the space. So far, there’s no final word from owner Sandy Lawrence as to Ubuntu’s future.

Meanwhile, if you’ve got a cool $35 million burning a hole in your pocket, the Friedensreich Hundertwasser-designed winery, Quixote, is up for sale. Wine legend Carl Doumani’s 42-acre Stags Leap property also includes a lakefront home, according to Paul Franson’s NapaLife.

Jaded Toad opens

Sooie! The former Mamma Pig’s barbecue in Windsor is once again smoking as the Jaded Toad opens for business June 7, 2012.

On the menu are baby back ribs, barbecued chicken, sliders, cornbread, steamed clams, salmon, and pan-fried frog legs according to owner Leo Tocchini. The culinary school grad and Tony Roma’s alum will be manning the grill daily, after giving up his gig as director of concessions for Santa Rosa Entertainment Group, a chain of movie theaters owned by his family.

Locals say the vibe is “cautiously optimistic” as the restaurant starts service. Mamma Pigs closed just months after opening when opening chef and former Mirepoix chef Matthew Bousquet and his wife left suddenly, also closing their cafe, Bistro M.

Jaded Toad: 275 Windsor River Rd, Windsor, (707) 838-8336.  http://www.facebook.com/JadedToad

Glen Ellen Star | Glen Ellen Restaurant

Glen Ellen Star features local produce and meats using a wood-fired oven in the heart of the Sonoma Valley. Heather Irwin/PD

On balmy spring nights it’s not surprising to find more people waiting outside the tiny Glen Ellen Star than seated inside. With just eight dining tables and a handful of seats around the open galley kitchen, every inch is prime real estate (update: A new seating area has been added)

At the glowing heart of the restaurant: Chef Ari Weiswasser’s 650-degree custom-built wood oven that perfumes the entire block with its smoke. Combining classic French techniques, razor-focused attention to detail, and exotic Mediterranean and Middle Eastern spices in every dish, Glen Ellen Star is one of Wine Country’s perennial must-tries.

On the menu: Cast iron quick bread with local feta and zaatar ($6); spring pea soup with ricotta gnudi (a sort of large gnocchi), mint, and mascarpone ($10) that’s the sweet essence of spring in a bowl. Tapping (dad-in-law) Mike Benziger’s biodynamic farm for much of the produce, the wood oven vegetables section is a revolving lineup of whatever is in season — from fava beans with brown sugar bacon marmalade and golden beets with harissa crumble to fennel crusted fennel with chili and Meyer lemon oil ($8). A special of grilled zucchini with spicy yogurt and crisp pita was outstanding. Pizzas steal the show, with a simple Margherita ($12) or White Pizza with guanciale and arugula ($16) easily feeding two. If you’re up for something more substantial, Brick Chicken ($21) goes beyond the usual pallid poultry with tender meat and a crackling crisped skin seasoned with urfa, a Turkish pepper. Roasted lamb meatballs, couscous with dried fruit and a sweet-savory soffrito of tomatoes, onions and peppers ($18) turns this Italian standard into something extraordinary.

Everything’s available for takeout, including dessert, half-pints of house-churned ice cream in flavors like malted milk, maple vanilla bourbon, salted peanut butter, espresso and strawberry sorbet ($6). The wine list is well-curated to reflect the food and ambiance and include locals (Benziger, Imagery, Gundlach Bundschu), nearby (Radio Couteau, County Line, Copain) and a handful of Italian, French and Germans.

Don’t expect much too formality, however, as the blue-aproned Weiswasser and his staff turn out expertly charred pizzas, roasted lamb meatballs and padrone peppers from the oven. Nearly every table is within view of the buzzing pick-up station and its a challenge for staff to maneuver through tight quarters — especially with piping hot dishes from the oven. Expect a few errant nudges from neighbors and staff as part of the charm…and this star to continue to rise.

13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. Reservations strongly recommended, 343-1384. Bar available first-come, first-serve. Open for dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30 to 9pm, Friday and Saturday until 9:30pm.

Farewell to Foie Gras Dinner

Foie gras is going the way of the Dodo in California. Meaning come July 1, it disappears off menus, can’t legally be purchased in the state and will likely be driven deep underground as gourmet fetish. Like wild Russian sturgeon caviar or shark fin soup.

To bid farewell, Petite Syrah hosts an all-foie dinner on Thursday, June 7.

On the six-course menu, frozen shaved foie, duck soup with foie; seared foie, squab and foie, and braised short rib with foie ragout.

Seating is limited. $125 per person.

Call 568-4002 for reservations.

 

10 Unique Foods To Grill


Steak may be the darling of your grill, but it’s time to go beyond the beef. With a little imagination, there’s not much that can’t benefit from the lick of flame or charcoal and the kiss of the grill grates. Vegetables? Of course. But how about fruit, cake or even pizza? With barbecue season in full swing, you’ve got the perfect excuse to experiment.

Explore your options with ten foods you’ll want to introduce to your grilling lineup…

Pound cake: Though it may sound incredibly odd, once you smell the sweet scent of cake sizzling on the grates, you’re hooked. Cut a prepared pound cake into 3/4-inch slices, lay flat on the grill until sides are browned and toasty. Serve with ice cream or fresh fruit.

Grilling Tips
You don’t need a fancy grill or tons of equipment to get cooking. A few basics…
– Simple charcoal grills are economic and impart great flavor. Even if you have a gas grill, it’s worth keeping a small charcoal grill around for smoking, barbecuing and slow cooking.
– Foil is your friend. Most meats appreciate a little rest after grilling (at least 3-5 minutes). Tent them to keep them warm while resting. Wrap veggies in foil for cooking. Use foil across the grates to create a shield if parts of your food are cooking to fast or to keep the ends of bamboo skewers from burning.
– Cool it down a little: It’s great to get that sizzle and sear, but it’s important to remember that food needs to cook through without burning. So move food to a cooler area of your grill after getting that initial sear.
– Keep it clean: Those burnt bits from last week’s burgers don’t add flavor. They add burnt bits. Flavor comes from a well-seasoned grill. So brush off your grill well each time.
– The Mississippi Test: How hot is your grill? If you’re like most of us, a flat hand over the fire tends to be the most common method of measurement. Raichlen’s Planet Barbecue calls this the Mississippi Test. High heat (around 600-800 degrees) is two to three counts (One Mississippi, Two Mississippi) before you shout “Ouch!” and pull your hand away. Medium high 4-5 counts, with low heat being around 12-14 counts. Or you could just use a thermometer.
– Use your fingers: We’re not suggesting your should burn yourself, but expert grillers trust their fingers to check for doneness. Firmness is what you’re looking for in meat. Softness is what you’re looking for in fruits and veggies.
– Gadgets are goofy: Sure, they make great Father’s Day gifts, but all those goofy barbecue gadgets won’t make you a better griller. Keep it simple with a good set of tongs, a spatula, a thermometer and good judgment when it comes to heat and flames.

Peaches: Stone fruit is a natural on the grill. Though you’ve got a few more weeks until peaches are officially in season, they’re worth waiting for. Slice in half, removing the pit. You can macerate the halves in brandy, dessert wine, brown sugar or fresh lime. Or just leave them plain. Leave the skin on and place the cut-side down on the grill. Cook until soft and warmed through. Top with fresh ricotta or mascarpone and mint leaves.

Pineapple: Grilling naturally caramelizes slices of pineapple, making it one of our favorite things to throw on the barbecue. Use fresh pineapple, sliced into about a half-inch thick. You can leave the heart in to keep the slices from falling apart, then cut up the pieces after grilling. Cook until the outside browns and softens.

Pizza: Who needs a wood-fired oven when you’ve got a grill? If you’re a pro, roll out fresh dough, then slide it onto the grill with a pizza peel. Cook the first side for several minutes, then flip it, brush with olive oil and a bit of sauce and cheese. It’s best to go minimal, or you’ll end up with a doughy mess. Though it may not be quite as authentic, using a Boboli or other prepared dough is a whole lot easier. Just grill one side first, flip and top. Don’t crank up the heat too high on this one, or you’ll end up with burnt spots.

Romaine/Salad Skewers: Grilled lettuce? Hearts of hearty Romaine work best. Split the bunch in half lengthwise and brush the cut side with a bit of oil. Place cut side down and grill for several minutes until there are there’s a bit of char and the leaves begin to wilt. Ranch, Caesar or even a bit of balsamic vinegar are great dressings. Another idea: Skewer small mozzarella balls, cherry tomatoes and basil leaves, then grill for a new spin on Caprese.

Cheese: It’s a rare cheese that you can put directly on the grill, but Greek Halloumi is just such a cheese. About the texture of tofu, you can slice it about 1/3-inch thick then brush with lemon and olive oil. Place directly on the grill, or use a grill pan, heating for just a few minutes until softened. Serve with grilled vegetables. If you’re dairy-free, exchange some extra-firm tofu seasoned with a bit of soy sauce or teriyaki. Press out as much water as possible, then slice into 1/2-inch slices. Grill until firm.

Bananas: This is one serious foundation for a banana split. Slice the bananas in half. If you’re a risk-taker (and over 21), souse the fruit with a bit of coconut rum, and sprinkle with brown sugar. Grill for several minutes on each side.

Corn: Once you’ve grilled corn on the cob, you’ll never go back to boiling. A bit of char and smoke on the kernels just adds to the sweetness of this summer favorite. Remove the husks and silk. Rub with a bit of oil and grill for several minutes, turning, until individual kernels begin to brown and blacken a bit. Place the cooked cobs on a plate, tented with tin foil and continue steaming for several minutes. I like to cut off the kernels, then toss with a bit of lime-infused olive oil, salt, pepper and torn basil.

Ice cream: This is a tricky one, but like fried ice cream or baked Alaska, doable with a little prep. Steven Raichlen’s Planet Barbecue (Workman Publishing, $22.95) suggests a coating of beaten egg and shredded coconut over scoops of well-frozen ice cream. Skewer the scoops, then grill quickly until the coconut is browned.

Heart: Not everyone’s into offal, but if you’re going whole hog, this is an easy way to start. Pig, beef or lamb hearts are firm, lean and muscular, with more of a meaty taste than a, well, organ-y flavor. You’ll want to find a recipe for the details of trimming and marinating (there are many online) this lesser-used cut. Skewer sliced pieces and grill gently.

Just want it smoky? Smokers are easy to build or buy, but you can get the flavor of smoke from The Smoked Olive. The Sonoma couple infuses California olive oils with a deep smoke-flavor that compliments meet and vegetables. Want to take it to the next level? Their smoked brown sugar is terrific on fruit or chicken. Find them at thesmokedolive.com.