Good Food Hour Axed at KSRO

By biteclub
Garner and Ash in a photo from the KSRO website

SHOCKER! After 25 years, Good Food Hour radio program has been cancelled by KSRO.

It was one of several budgetary cuts made at the Santa Rosa radio station, owned by Maverick Media this week.

The long-running show featured Chef John Ash and Steve Garner as hosts each Saturday morning. Also eliminated: Garden Talk and KSRO Morning News Anchor Curtiss Kim. Garden Talk and The Good Food Hour were the longest running garden and food shows in California, according to KSRO.

This morning lines lit up with confused callers when Good Food Hour was replaced by a syndicated radio program. Insiders say that Ash and the others were informed late this week.  The KSRO website no longer lists the Good Food Hour or Garden Talk.

“We were totally shocked,” said Ash, reached Saturday. He stated that it was an especially tough blow for Garner, who worked on both shows for decades. “It’s a real loss of local broadcasting that was part of the local community.”

While the food community was taken aback at the unceremonious cancellation, its not without precedent. In 2010, Steve Jaxon’s “The Drive” was cancelled on KSRO but returned several weeks later with its own lineup of sponsors. In San Francisco, KGO cut Dining Around with Gene Burns (along with a number of other shows) in 2011.

Apparently the cuts at KSRO were made for purely budgetary reason, but BiteClub hopes that Good Food Hour might be able follow a similar model to Jaxon’s and possible reach a new audience through Podcasting and the Internet.

Because that kind of experience in our local food scene, along with Garner and Ash’s insight, humor and wit would be a pretty tragic loss to the community.

Can we find a way to bring Good Food Hour back? Let’s hope so.

Thanksgiving 2012

By biteclub

Sure, Thanksgiving is a time for gathering ’round the family table, but who says it has to be yours? Instead of spending hours slaving in a hot kitchen, there are plenty of eat-out, pick-up and “who has to know you didn’t make it?” options throughout Sonoma County.

This year, celebrate turkey day in a new way. Just remember to get a doggy bag for those post-Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing cravings. Here are some of our favorite spots throughout Sonoma County.

RESTAURANTS

Santa Rosa

Stark’s Steakhouse & Seafood: Roast Willie Bird turkey, Chef Mark’s andouille sausage and wild mushroom stuffing, traditional giblet gravy and pomegranate-cranberry relish, $26. Also offering dessert specials, pumpkin pie and Mamma Janne’s cream cheese pie. Most regular items available, including raw bar and seafood dishes, but the restaurant won’t be serving burgers or entrée Caesar salads on Thanksgiving day. 2-7pm, 521 Adams St, Santa Rosa. Reservations highly suggested: 707-546-5100 or via Open Table.

Willie Bird’s Restaurant: Family-favorite serving up local Willie Birds. Full holiday turkey dinner along with other menu items. Reservations required and most are nailed down well in advance, but some walk-ins accepted. Open until 8pm. 1150 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.542.0861. Can’t get in for Thanksgiving: Grab a turkey Monte Cristo on Black Friday.

Cafe Europe: Four course diner, $35, from 1 to 6pm includes selection of mushroom ravioli, turkey, filet mignon, veal cordon Bleu and wild boar ragout. 104 Calistoga Road  Santa Rosa, 538-5255

John Ash and Co.: Three-course holiday menu includes butternut squash soup, lobster bisque, sea scallop ceviche, pan-seared Scottish salmon, Heritage turkey and (giblet!) gravy, pork tenderloin, maple pumpkin creme brulee, bourbon pecan tart. $62pp, $32 kids under 12. Call for reservations. 350 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa, 707.527.7687

Brasserie: Three course meal from 1- 7pm, $42 adults, $18 12 and under. 170 Railroad Street  Santa Rosa, 636-7388.

Healdsburg

Madrona Manor: Michelin-starred chef Chef Jesse Malgren does annual four-course turkey dinner for $84pp. Call ahead for seating between 1:30 and 7:30pm. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, (707) 433-4231.

Dry Creek Kitchen: Three course menu includes Lobster risotto, roasted sugar pie pumpkin soup, Willie Bird turkey, prime New York steak, leg of lamb, cranberries with white chocolate mousse,$65 per person. Served 2-7pm; 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 866.458.7224

Cocina Latina: Thanksgiving Yucateca-style. Mateo Granados’ new restaurant serves up Tacones, Relleno Blanco de Pavo (Diestel Family Farm turkey, hard boiled egg centered embutido, white gravy “Mayan k’ol”, Soda Rock tomate frito and sea salt hand-made tortilla), traditional Thanksgiving turkey, braised lamb and sticky bun flan.  $50 per person, serving 11:30am to 7:30pm. Reservations recommended, 433-1520 or on Opentable.

Thanksgiving by Whole Foods

Recently I saw a chef literally cringe when he heard the words .99 cents per pound and turkey. People, even though you’re only eating it once a year, have enough respect for your taste buds (if not the turkey) to commit to something that’s humanely-raised, organic (if possible) and for heaven’s sake tastes good. I’m a huge fan of Diestel turkeys, raised in Sonora. They taste delicious, especially when someone else roasts them to perfection and your only job is to reheat it on Thanksgiving morning.

Along with pre-cooked (and non-precooked) turkey, they have gravy (sans lumps), sides, pies, and other desserts in a mix-and-match combination you can order online. Details at the Whole Foods website.

Spoonbar: A casual three courses include winter squash soup, braised mussels and clams, buttermilk poached turkey breast with brioche stuffing, potato puree, roast carrots, brussels sprouts, quine an dalmond crostata. $55 for adults and $15 for children. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 922-5426.

Sonoma
Carneros Bistro and Bar at Lodge at Sonoma: Chef Andrew Wilson prepares a three-course menu of Butternut Squash Soup, Roasted Turkey with chestnuts, “Square Pig” (pork confit with potatoes and brussels sprouts), dayboat scallops, pumpkin or pecan pie. Thanksgiving dinner will be served on Thursday, November 22 for $55 per person and $30 for children. 1325 Broadway St., Sonoma, 707-935-6600/

girl and the fig: Three course menu including wild mushroom and fromage blanc strudel, roasted turkey roulade, prime rib, and pumpkin cheesecake. $52 per person. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, 938-3634.

Depot Hotel: Four courses at a favorite Sonoma bistro features corn chowder, vineyard salad, roast turkey with sage stuffing. Other entrees: grilled salmon, orecchiette pasta with butternut squash, veal picatta or filet of beef. Cheesecake, pumpkin pie or chocolate decadence with port wine sauce. $35 $48pp, seatings from noon to 7pm; 241 First St., West, Sonoma, 938-2980.

Sante: An epic Thanksgiving buffet that puts all other buffets to shame. The highlight reel: Butternut squash with creme fraiche, shrimp cocktail, assorted charcuteries, artisan cheeses served by the Maitre Fromager, smoked salmon and caviar, classic Caesar, ricotta tortellini salad. Carving stations of Diestel turkey with brioche and sage stuffing, filet mignon, pumpkin pie ravioli, sea bass, lamb, veal, mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts, artisnal breads, pumpking pie, chocolate Bourbon tart, pumpkin cheesecake, spiced pumpkin macaroons, s’mores bar, Crepes Suzette. $99pp, 939-2415.

Sebastopol

French Garden: Garden Butternut squash soup with chestunuts; turkey, Prime Rib, polenta cakes with kale, mashed potatoes, sausage stuffing, roasted chestnut gravy, yams with brown sugar, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, apple pie with ice cream and more. 8050 Bodega Avenue  Sebastopol, 824-2030. $60pp, $25 children 12 and under.

Petaluma
Central Market: Always a favorite in Petaluma, Chef Ton Najiola celebrates his annual Thanksgiving dinner with four luscious courses. $60pp, $84 with wine. Kids under 12, $20. 42 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma, (707) 778-9900

West County

Rancho Nicasio Thanksgiving Dinner: Annual three course dinner from 12 to 7pm, reservations recommended. Menu includes homemade clam chowder, turkey, ham, salmon Wellington with champagne sauce, prime rib, pumpkin, apple or pecan pie. $34.95pp, 29.95 65+, kids under 10, $24.95. Three course vegetarian option available by reservation. On The Town Square, Nicasio, 415-662-2219.

BUYING YOUR TURKEY

Diestel Turkey: Big John’s (1345 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg), Oliver’s Market, Whole Foods, Sonoma Market (520 W. Napa St., Sonoma), Ukiah Natural Foods (721 S. State St., Ukiah), Molsberry Market (522 Larkfield Ctr, Santa Rosa).

Willie Bird Turkeys: Local free-range turkeys. 5350 Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA 707-545-2832 Will Call Orders Only.

PICKUP
Zazu/Bovolo/Black Pig: You cook the turkey, Zazu does the rest. A la carte sides with flair including Black Pig Bacon (for your left over BLTurkey!); Cranberry apple Chutney; Riesling Gravy, Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes, maple and browned butter yams, cornbread stuffing, pumpkin ice cream pie, Sebastopol apple crunch pie. All orders must be received by Friday, Nov. 20 for pick up on Wednesday at ZAZU restaurant + farm, 3535 guerneville road, santa rosa from 3 to 9pm or at BOVOLO, 106 Matheson St, Healdsburg from 12 to 6 pm. 431-2962 to place your order.

Pearson and Co: Mix and match everything from sides to stuffing. Menu includes: Butternut Squash Soup, Willie Bird turkey, spiral cut ham, garlic mashed potatoes, sweet potato gratin, green beans, stuffing, pies and breads from Village Bakery. All orders must be placed by Saturday, Nov. 17. Call ahead orders: 541-3868, 2759 4th St., Santa Rosa.

Fresh By Lisa Hemenway: Complete Thanksgiving dinner includes a roast turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, veggies, desserts and more. $180-$195. Packaged and ready to go, ready for pickup between 10am and 1pm. 5755 Mountain Hawk Way, Santa Rosa, 539-1049.

DON’T FORGET DESSERT

Della Fattoria: Pumpkin pie with Maple Meringue, Pumpkin Slab Pie, Pumpkin Cheesecake with gingersnap crust, Pumpkin Whoopie Pies, Pippin Apple Pie, dinner rolls and breads. Order by 11/18, 763-0161. 141 Petaluma Boulevard North, Petaluma.

Mom’s Apple Pies will be open for limited hours on Thanksgiving day. Expect lots of pumpkin. Order ahead if you want something different. 4550 Gravenstein Hwy. North, Sebastopol, 707-823-8330.

LAST MINUTE SHOPPING

* Whole Foods:  Thanksgiving hours are 8am to 2pm.
* Safeway: Most locations: 6am to 12pm
* G & G Market/Santa Rosa: Open 7am to 3pm
* Olivers: Montecito, Stony Point, Cotati, open from 7am to 3:30pm

TO HELL WITH THE TURKEY!
Save a turkey and join adopt a turkey instead of eating one. To view this year’s “adoptable” turkeys, visit adoptaturkey.org or call the Turkey Adoption Hotline at 1-888-SPONSOR.

Backyard Restaurant in Forestville

By biteclub
Salad of baby romaine, pork belly, pickled tomatoes and torn croutons. Intentional. Authentic.
Backyard Restaurant
Salad of baby romaine, pork belly, pickled tomatoes and torn croutons. Intentional. Authentic. At Backyard in Forestville

Backyard Restaurant: Unlike a thousand other restaurants with twee Mason jars and artisan farminess slathered all over their menus, Forestville’s Backyard Restaurant gets its dirt-cred authentically.

Sourcing, literally, from chef-owner Daniel Kedan’s own backyard culinary gardens and those of his ranch and farming neighbors, the Ad Hoc and Peter Lowell’s alum opened his small community-focused restaurant in October with a relatively simple menu that relies on seasonal produce, foragers and whole-animal butchery as its foundation.

Suffice to say Kedan and partners Chefs Seth Harvey and Marianna Gardenhire can actually tell you the name of the person who grew the restaurant’s lettuce, raised its chickens and made the hemp oil on your steak. Kedan also happens to document many of his adventures in local fields, pig pens and foraging jaunts on Facebook in case you care to see your pork chop-in-development.

With nods to the diverse palates of Sonoma County which are something akin to microclimates around these parts, you’ll find a seared steak accented with hemp oil or buttermilk onion rings next to gluten-free, vegan gnocchi with wild mushrooms so unctuous and rich you’ll swear its loaded with butter and beef stock, local water kefir, coveted Green Valley wines, greens with nutritional yeast and flatbread with arugula and lemon oil. Literally something for everyone.

Every Wednesday the restaurant serves a simple, comforting family-style fried chicken dinner, but also regularly features dishes like blanched broccoli rabe with delicate purses of burrata or butternut squash flatbreads or steaming pot pies throughout the week. Or one of the best salads I’ve ever eaten — an ice cold plate of baby Romaine, torn croutons, pork belly, and herbed dressing. Honestly, however, it seems almost unfair to suggest any particular dish because chances are Kedan’s menu will have moved on to whatever’s at its height of perfection this week. And that’s exactly the point of eating at Backyard. Often.

Like any restaurant, not every dish is perfect. But even when it misses the mark, each bite feels to wonderfully real. And quintisentially Sonoma County.

Backyard, 6566 Front St., Forestville (the former Sarah’s Forestville Kitchen), 707-820-8445. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner until 9p.m., brunch on Sunday. Facebook Page

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Beaudry’s Roadhouse

By biteclub

CLOSED

Mystery solved on the opening of Beaudry’s Roadhouse in Sebastopol. Chef-owner Frank Stephenson has long had his eye on the roadhouse midway between Sebastopol and Forestville on Gravenstein Hwy., first as Elmo’s and then as the Henweigh Cafe. “I’m from Sonoma County, its like getting back home for me,” says Stephenson, who’s owned the Boar’s Breath Restaurant and Bar in Middletown for years. The restaurant officially opened on Friday, and will serve lunch and dinner with comfort dishes from burgers ($11-13), to salads, fried calamari and larger entree dishes including pork chopp with buttermilk mashed potatoes, spaghetti and meatballs ($16), St. Louis style ribs ($17) and steak. On Sunday, they’re planning on hosting a barbecue and fried chicken night and $5 burger night on Wednesdays. 4550 Gravenstein Hwy North, Sebastopol, 829-7500, beaudrysroadhouse.com.

 

Evelyn Cheatham on Chopped

By biteclub

Well, seems we totally missed seeing our very own Evelyn Cheatham of Worth Our Weight in Santa Rosa on the Food Network show, Chopped.

The episode, entitled Happy Turkey Gizzards Day was a, you guessed it, Thanksgiving themed show. Gizzards showed up in the basket up mystery ingredients along with pumpkin pie. Unfortunately Evelyn got Chopped in the first round, but honestly she’s got bigger fish to fry.

Cheatham is working to turn the Cook House at 327 A St. into a small diner for graduates of her culinary apprentice program. Let’s just hope gizzards aren’t on that menu.

Video of the show hasn’t shown up on the Chopped website yet, but is slated to air again on Nov. 17 and 18 on Food Network.

 

 

Late Harvest Farm Forum

By biteclub

Amidst the hubbub and insanity of life, we forget what living and eating in Sonoma County is really about. So let me remind you: It’s about authenticity. It’s about where things are grown and how they’re grown. It’s about farm markets and farmers and ranchers with dirt under their nails and callouses from years of impossibly hard work.

The Late Harvest Farm Forum brings food and farming in Sonoma County to the forefront. The event is hosted by Clark Wolf and March Smothers as part of the Sonoma County Food & Farming Project.

Held at the SRJC Culinary Center (1670 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa), this final discussion of the year includes speakers Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill Creamery), Ziggy Eschilman (wine expert and personality), Wendy Krupnick (food and garden teacher), Gaye LeBaron (columnist0, Serge Labesque (bee keeper), Chuck Levine (Jack London State Park board member), Mo McElroy (tourism professional) Rian Reed (Slow/Green money advisor), Jim Reichardt (Liberty Ducks) and Michael Salinger (SRJC Culinary Director).

Nov. 15, 2012, 5-7:30pm, suggested donation, $15.

McCoys return to Pearson and Co.

By biteclub

The goose is back, along with Mike and Kendra McCoy after a brief retirement from their Santa Rosa catering and deli operation, Pearson and Co.

They’ll be bringing back favorite recipes, along with more soups and comfort foods, roasted chickens, pans of mac and cheese, lasagna, eggplant parmesan and more. The sandwich menu has been expanded and chocolate chip pudding has returned. The couple also plan to open The Marketplace @ Pearson’s with European specialty foods, teas, candies, candles and decor.

Oh, and by the way, they’ll be taking orders for their Thanksgiving and Christmas take-away dinners including pumpkin soup, roast turkey breast, cranberry sauce and pies. Two locations: 2759 4th St., Santa Rosa, 541-3868 and 2500 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 570-3700.

BeerCraft in Rohnert Park

By biteclub
The BeerCraft guys

Beer Nerds are a lot like Food Nerds in that the thrill is in the hunt for rare, new and obscure.

To whit: On the counter of JT Fenn’s BeerCraft store is a micro-produced mint chocolate stout that’s just come in. The distributor is downright giddy over finding it and the boys of BeerCraft are equally psyched. “Oh, that’ll be gone by tomorrow,” says JT, getting ready to share the score on his Facebook page — which has more than 1,500 “Likes” after just a few months in business.

The small Rohnert Park store features more than 200 kinds of craft beers, mostly refrigerated and ready for drinking, with a stock that changes up with 10-20 new beers each week. But more than just a place to buy beer, its become a hangout, meet-up and podcasting spot for many of the local Beer-rati who you’ll find wandering around the store, looking for unusual favorites. Fenn brings ’em back with his ‘Beer of the Day’ specials, 50% off specials (I got a six-pack of Brown Shugga for just $5).

Look for special seasonal ales during the  holidays, including Rogue Brewing’s Pumpkin Patch Ale, Marin Brewing’s Holidaze, Midnight Sun Brewing Company’s Treat (made with pumpkin, cocoa, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg) and, well, whatever else Fenn can find. 5704 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park, 888-989-2337.

What Sonoma County Really Thinks of Guy Fieri

By biteclub

By now most of us have read the New York Times review of Guy Fieri’s New York restaurant. 

Between laughing hysterically at the unrelenting vitriol and feeling some sort of vindication for having our own taste buds assaulted by Tuna Tots, most of Sonoma County is letting out a collective sigh of relief over the very personal, very funny and very high profile attack penned this week.

Mostly because Pete Wells pointed out what we’ve known for years and felt uncomfortable saying too loudly about our native son: Your food is really kind of awful, bro.

Sure we’ve whispered it, we’ve hinted at it, we’ve said it to each other in hushed tones. But mostly we sort of cough nervously and look away when True Fieri Fans ask about his Sonoma County restaurants. We say things like, “Oh Guy Fieri’s restaurants? Hmmm. I don’t know that I’ve been there, but he seems like such a niiiiice guy.”

Really, what can one say? It’s like kicking a puppy. People LOVE Fieri in places like Dubuque, Iowa and Scranton, Pennsylvania. He’s this lovable lug who represents cuisine for The Rest of Us. He’s the Larry The Cable Guy of Food and its hard not to feel like a snob when you say something like, “Well, if you like Applebees, you’ll probably be really stoked about Johnny Garlic’s!”

It just seems so, well, Wine Country of us, what with our obsession about heirloom tomatoes and heritage pigs and biodynamic seasonal peas served on a bed of free range arugula. 

Not to mention the fact that there’s a personal connection for many folks in Sonoma County. A lot of you helped him with his rise to stardom. A lot of you worked in his restaurants. A lot of you knew him way back when. A lot of folks have benefitted from his beneficence to local charities and causes. Personally, I’ve never seen him be anything but friendly and polite when throngs of middle-aged women crowd around him asking for an autograph. His mom is one of the most charming people I’ve ever not had a conversation with.

Yet we gnash our teeth that his food is connected in any way with Sonoma County, home of fresh, local, sustainable food. Of which Tuna Tots are not. A lot of you haven’t heard from him since he got famous or if you have, it was simply to get an autographed 4×6 which he carries with him at all times. Guy doesn’t do himself a lot of favors by walling himself into his home compound and surrounding himself with fellas who weigh 350 pounds and wear jackets that say Kulinary Krew. He doesn’t talk to local media (which at some level is understandable when any article about him results in dozens of mean-spirited comments). He hasn’t always remembered the little people who got him where he is. Trust me, I’ve heard most of the stories, and what I haven’t heard gets posted all over my Facebook page or blog if i deign to say his name.

What’s so terribly ironic about all this is that the nation is worked up about all this but guess who isn’t? Guy.

He’s mugging it up on talk shows, milking this little bit of PR gold for all its worth. I’m guessing we won’t get a quote from Guy for tomorrow’s news story about how this all is impacting him, but instead get lots of folks around him saying nothing but nice things like, “Any publicity is good publicity for a man who’s really put Sonoma County on the map.” And guess what, he has in his own way.

Meanwhile, his restaurants will continue to be financially successful. He’ll continue to assault our tastebuds with things like Bloody Mary Tri-Tip and Cheeseburger Sausage at Costco, have “cookbooks” on the best-seller list and charm his way into the hearts of millions whose only question is, “So where was that restaurant of Guy Fieri’s I’ve been hearing so much about?”

PS. I think calling him “Sphincter Mouth is a lot meaner than anything Pete Wells wrote..

Guy’s Response on the Today show…

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Butcher and Cook Pop-Up Dinners

By biteclub

Butcher Berry Salinas and an evolving lineup of chef-friends are hosting an ephemeral Fried Chicken and Pie Cafe called Butcher and Cook Sunday evenings through February 3, 2013.

The dinners feature fried chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy, collard greens, coleslaw, “mile high” biscuits and granny-good pies at Don Taylor’s Omelette Express (112 4th Street  Santa Rosa) from 4:30 to 8p.m.

Dinners are available in two sizes, a full supper for four (8 pieces of chicken, 3 sides, 4 biscuits and a half pie) for $58 or a half supper for two, $35. Reservations highly recommended for take-out or sit down at butcherandcook.com or by calling 695-2169.