Fog Belt Brewing on the horizon

fogbeltBeer insiders have been chomping on yet another brewery opening in Santa Rosa this winter: Fog Belt Brewing. Housed in the Cleveland Ave. “Urban Winery Village” complex (1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa), which several years ago begot Heritage Public House, Fog Belt has soft-launched but officially opens Feb. 15, 2013

To whet the whistles of local beer drinkers, Heritage Public House (1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa) will host a Jan. 30 launch party celebrating Fog Belt’s first releases, Hyperion Red Ale and Lost Monarch Wit Beer infused with fresh cilantro and Keffir lime. Both beers are made exclusively with California hops, and are actively growing their own specialized estate hops. Upcoming releases include Atlas Blonde, Del Norte IPA (natch) and Armstrong Stout.

Fog Belt Brewing Co. is the brainchild of Paul Hawley and Remy Martin, both Wine Country natives who spent their formative years in vineyards and began brewing beer together in 2004.

Open Thursday, 2-8pm, Friday, 11am-10pm, Sunday, 11am to 8pm.

Forchetta returns

jamilahAfter a run of pop-ups at Sebastopol’s Forchetta (6948 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol), Jamilah Nixon will reopen her Italian kitchen in February.

Since 2011, the former Lucy’s (proceeded by Jonathan Waxman’s West County Grill and Pizzavino 707) has been a two-part operation, with a casual pan-Asian eatery during the day and an upscale Italian restaurant at night. Forchetta went dark last fall, briefly hosting pop-ups from The Green Grocer and HiFive.

Nixon says, however, that the revamped Forchetta will focus more on family and budget-conscious dining in the evenings with pizzas, pastas and grilled entrees topping out at $16. More details as the opening date gets closer.

Wine Country Winners at Good Food Awards

The 2014 Good Food Awards in San Francisco
The 2014 Good Food Awards in San Francisco
The 2014 Good Food Awards in San Francisco

Congrats to Wine Country’s Good Food Award Winners. During last night’s award ceremony in San Francisco more than 130 of the country’s best food and drink producers were recognized for their artisan products — from beer and coffee to chocolate, jams and cheese.

It’s a huge honor in the food world, and this year’s winners were selected from 1,450 entries from all 50 states in a Blind Tasting held in September.  The 225 judges, experts in their various industries, flew to San Francisco for a full day of blind tasting.  Those that rose to the top were subject to a rigorous vetting process to verify they met the sustainability and social responsibility criteria to win a Good Food Award.

See the whole list of winners

Bear Republic Brewing Company, Café Racer 15, California

Bellwether Farms, Whole Milk Ricotta & Carmody, California

Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Toma, California

Flying Goat Coffee, Ethiopia Wote Konga, California

Wine Forest, Pickled Sea Beans, California

So long, Cappy

taraRockstar barman Daniel “Cappy” Sorentino has left Healdsburg’s Spoonbar for LA. The popular mixmaster followed in the footsteps of the groundbreaking Cyrus mixologist, Scott Beattie, serving up hand-crafted cocktails with a true artisan flair. Replacing Cappy is Tara Heffernon, who’s been part of the Spoonbar cocktail program since the start. She plans to continue the farm-to-bar concept using an assortment of herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers from her home garden. Good news. 219 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg.

Epic Bison Bars

BisonBarOn my recent hiking trip to Sedona, Arizona, I found a novel new protein bar featuring grassfed bison, bacon and cranberry. The Epic Bar is a modern take on the native American pemmican, a mix of meat protein (usually bison, but also moose, elk or deer) and fruit.

One bar packs in 12grams of fat and 11 grams of protein, so this ain’t for an afternoon snack. Instead, they’re mean for athletes and hikers needing a healthy energy boost.

Other flavors include beef-habanero-cherry and turkey-almond-cranberry. Look for lamb, currant and mint in the spring. Want to get your hands on some? They’re available at Oliver’s Markets beginning this week.

Palooza Restaurant in the Works

PaloozaLogo-e1388157653879Catering company owner Jeff Tyler (Hot Dogs from Chicago, Bunslinger, Palooza Catering) has taken over the former Doce Lunas restaurant in Kenwood.

In the works is a gastropub with Chef Chris Hanson (a freelance chef who’s popped up at a number of local events and alum of the Santa Rosa Golf & Country Club) heading the kitchen.

BiteClub’s seen the preliminary menu, and it’s both approachable and nervy, with some of Hanson’s signature carnivorous creations: Savory cannoli , lemon pepper calamari, a beef marrow app, monkfish fish and chips and an ice cream sandwich with both hops and beer in the mix. Opening is slated for spring, but we’ll keep watch for the final date.

More January 2014 closures

closedIf you’re wondering about all the recent closures, its definitely the season for restaurants going dark. After Wine Country’s busy fall and holiday rush, restaurants that have been struggling tend to throw in the towel in the deadly-quiet months of January and February, unable to hold out for busier spring and summer.

BiteClub has gotten word that other recent casualties have included Claudio’s in Sebastopol, Locals in Larkfield and Nonni’s in Santa Rosa.

Landscape painter, Wade Hoefer

Wade Hoefer (photo by John Burgess)

On most days, landscape painter Wade Hoefer, 65, retreats with his Bernese mountain dog, Pluto, to a restored 1880 studio behind Soda Rock Winery in the Alexander Valley. Widely collected, his work has been shown in galleries around the world. Lately, he’s been working on incorporating spices such as turmeric, curry and cayenne into his work.

THEN: Born on a naval base in Long Beach

NOW: Lives in Calistoga with his partner, Henriette Steinrueck, who is the tasting room manager at Castello di Amorosa winery.

WHEN VISITORS HAPPEN ON HIS STUDIO: “That kind of comes with the territory, even if sometimes it’s a minor annoyance. Some people come over and they’ve had too much to drink and they’re frolicking around and I’m trying to get work done.”

PAST LIFE: Vineyard manager and landscape architect at Clos du Bois winery in Geyserville (1981-1991).

WHEN HE’S NOT PAINTING: Likely found in his Calistoga garden, which he describes as “green, gray and white” with olives, privet hedges, star jasmine and potato vines.

INSPIRATION TO PAINT WITH SPICES: In 2010, “in the village in Spain where I was working, every Monday morning they had a market and this Moroccan guy would set up a big table of spices in perfect pyramids. And every day I would go by and say, ‘What can I do with these spices?’ They’re very textural, very physical. They look like slabs or objects. … they really hark back to the earth.”

THE LIGHT IN SONOMA COUNTY: “I like it when it’s transitional, when you don’t know if it’s coming up or going down. It’s timeless.”

Shear Pleasure

A variety of sheep at Pozzi Ranch located on the hills overlooking the town of Bodega. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

As spring approaches, the rolling green hills of Sonoma County are alive with sheep grazing on early grasses. They wear their lush winter coats, thick pelts of beautiful warm wool that have protected them from the season’s chill.

Soon they will be shorn, just as sheep have been for countless North Bay springs. For decades, the wool didn’t see much of a life after it left the sheep. Most of it ended up in landfill, at a cost to the rancher, or back on the ranch, to be used as mulch and for erosion control. A bit was sold on the open wool market, but fetched such paltry sums that it was barely worth the effort it took to sell it.

That began to change in 1993, when Joe Pozzi of Pozzi Ranch in Bodega founded PureGrow Wool.

“When a friend asked what I did with my wool,” Pozzi recalled, “I was taken by surprise. My sheep are raised for meat and their wool has medium-length fibers, which are not used for clothing.”

Dryer balls and a dish drying mat by Sonoma Wool Company at Pozzi Ranch located on the hills overlooking the town of Bodega. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Dryer balls and a dish drying mat by Sonoma Wool Company at Pozzi Ranch located on the hills overlooking the town of Bodega. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

But the inquiring friend was interested in making bedding, pillows, comforters and mattresses. Pozzi’s wool was ideal and PureGrow Wool, based on the same humane, environmentally thoughtful practices that guide Pozzi’s ranching, was born. Today Pozzi produces about 84,000 pounds of PureGrow Wool a year from about 14,000 sheep, both his own flock and from local ranches and those throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Pozzi sends the wool to Texas for processing, first to a scouring mill where it is washed, and then to a carding mill, where it is combed, straightened and rolled into what are called bats: freshly cleaned sheaves of wool ready to be used. The process is simple and mechanical; it uses none of the chemicals of industrial processing that strips natural lanolin from the wool and accounts for its reputation as being itchy.

Some of the wool returns home to Sonoma Wool Company in Valley Ford, where it is used in a line of products that include dog toys, dish-drying mats and dryer balls (balls of wool that fluff your clothes and reduce drying time).

Pozzi uses a Texas facility because cleaning wool takes a lot of water, too scarce a commodity in California for large-scale wool processing. Yet there is a renaissance of small-scale wool processing in the Golden State and its heart, its nexus, resides in the hamlet of Valley Ford, where the Valley Ford Mercantile & Wool Mill opened last August to instant success.

“We barely had time to get our feet wet,” said Casey Mazzucchi, who grew up on a nearby sheep ranch and founded the mill with his business partner, Ariana Strozzi. Within weeks, the mill was filled with wool from two dozen clients.

Interest in local wool rose as the sheep’s-milk cheese industry here found a lucrative niche and the diversity of sheep breeds broadened. Also, as the mantra of sustainable farming has deepened, farmers have sought ways to make use of and benefit from their wool.

Casey Mazzucchi at his Valley Ford Mercantile and Wool Mill in Valley Ford, California with Rose, his 3-month-old pet Horned Dorset sheep. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Casey Mazzucchi at his Valley Ford Mercantile and Wool Mill in Valley Ford, California with Rose, his 3-month-old pet Horned Dorset sheep. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

Mazzucchi oversees the processing, from the moment the wool comes in the door until it is ready to be transformed into goods. Strozzi develops products from wool from their flock of sheep, making mattress pads, comforters, pillows and mattresses, with more items soon to come.

Deborah Walton of Canvas Ranch in Two Rock, west of Petaluma, was the mill’s first customer. After establishing her ranch in 2001 and at first using wool from her Olde English Babydoll Southdown sheep as mulch, Walton slowly entered the wool business, initially making pillows and small comforters.

At first she sent her wool to the Yolo Wool Mill in Woodland, one of the few in California, but eventually switched to a mill in Michigan that offered a better price, even with shipping costs factored in. Now that there is a local option, Walton is expanding her products, with beautiful table runners, full-size comforters, vests, felted items and more.

Mimi Luebbermann of Windrush Farm in southern Petaluma has produced wool from her animals since 1995. Currently, she has Corriedale cross and Shetland sheep and alpacas. Luebbermann still uses the Yolo mill, as it produces roving, the long, narrow bundles of fiber preferred by spinners (Luebbermann’s primary customers). Her animals produce wool that ranges from white, gray and light brown to chocolate and true black, from the Shetlands. She also uses natural materials to dye her wool, which she sells at the Marin County Farmers Market in San Rafael on Sundays. She’s waiting, she said, to see if the new mill will produce roving.

If the Valley Ford mill’s first season is any indication, demand will continue to grow as more sheep ranchers take advantage of having a mill close to home, and with customers eager for another local product. Looking at the enormous barn, where wool covers nearly every surface and bags of it are stacked almost to the ceiling, it is easy to imagine that the need for more space will come sooner rather than later.

DK Wings a casualty at the casino

Douglas Keane with his favorite dog.
Douglas Keane with his favorite dog.

IMG_5391Rumors swirled Tuesday night after word that Chef Douglas Keane’s DK Wings eatery in the Graton Resort and Casino had been boarded up.

Keane has confirmed the closure, and  the restaurant’s logo on the casino’s website has been removed from the Marketplace page.

The fried chicken wing and pickle bar was a creative concept from the former Cyrus chef, opening in early November. Early reviews from Keane fans were positive, but Yelpers didn’t seem quite as enthusiastic. Both Keane and partner Nick Peyton (who still have the successful HBG Bar in Healdsburg) were working the lines and hawking wings almost daily, leading BiteClub to wonder if the strain of churn-and-burn at such a high-traffic spot was ultimately too much.

Keane did not return phone calls or messages. BiteClub wishes Keane and his staff the best.