The Butter & Eggs parade in Petaluma is on April 25. (photo by John Burgess)
Panir is salted before being formed into a brick during the Farm to Table cheese making seminar during the Annual Artisan Cheese Festival. (photo by Crista Jeremiason)
March 20-22 California’s Artisan Cheese Festival: Cheese is so much more than just a topping for a burger. Discover the diversity and excellence of California’s artisanal cheeses with three days of tastings, seminars, demonstrations, classes, tours and author appearances. Enjoy the best of cow’s, sheep’s and goat’s milk cheeses, and find out which go best with great wines and beers. $20-$135. Sheraton Sonoma County, 745 Baywood Drive, Petaluma. 707-837-1928, artisancheesefestival.com
March 20-21 Pigs & Pinot: Dry Creek Kitchen chef Charlie Palmer is joined by a stellar cast of master sommeliers and celebrity chefs for his 10th annual, two-day celebration of Pinot Noir and pork at the Healdsburg Hotel. $125-$175. Hotel Healdsburg, 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-922-5249, pigsandpinot.com
Richard Kasmier, owner/winemaker/cellar worker for the tiny KAZ Winery, dazzles his guest with a dance while pouring newer wines as part of the Savor Sonoma Valley weekend. (photo by John Burgess)
March 21-22 Savor Sonoma Valley: Meet winemakers, mingle with wine lovers, see original work by local artists and listen to live music when 17 Sonoma Valley wineries showcase 2014 vintage wines, straight from the barrel, and offer samples of new releases. Look forward to great wine and food pairings, too. 11 a.m.- 4 p.m. both days. Weekend pass $65, Sunday only $50.
866-794-9463, heartofsonomavalley.com
March 26-29 Sebastopol Documentary Film Festival: See films on subjects that big-budget commercial studios seldom touch, when Sebastopol presents its eighth annual celebration of film with screenings at the Rialto Cinemas and other venues. Topics range from local to global. All-access pass $250; opening night $30; regular films and programs $10. 707-829-4797, sebastopolfilmfestival.org
Broadway and television star Audra McDonald returns to the Green Music Center on March 28. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
March 28 Audra McDonald: Stormy weather last December forced a postponement of the Broadway and TV star’s triumphant return to Weill Hall at Rohnert Park’s Green Music Center, but she’ll be onstage in March with show tunes, songs from classic movies, original songs and candid commentary. The winner of six Tony Awards and two Grammy Awards has some great stories to tell. Whether you know her from her four seasons of “Private Practice” or the live television version of “Sound of Music,” McDonald won’t disappoint. 8 p.m. $22.50-$115. Weill Hall, Green Music Center on the Sonoma State University campus, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu
March 28 Battle of the Brews: The boom in craft beers has raised the profile of this 19th annual event in a region long known for its wine festivals. Sponsored by the Active 20-30 Club of Santa Rosa, the daylong celebration includes beer and food tastings and pairings, a professional brewers’ competition, the ’Wich Hunt showcase of specialty sandwiches by local chefs, and more. 1-8 p.m. $40-$95. Sonoma County Fairgrounds, 1350 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-4200, battleofthebrews.com
April 11 Art Museum Opening Gala: The Sonoma County Museum opens its new art space in the former Conklin Bros. building with a tented party offering cocktails, music, dancing and its inaugural exhibit, “Andy Warhol to Kara Walker: Picturing the Iconic.” 8-11 p.m. $150 members, $200 nonmembers. The museum’s former home, the historic post office building down the block, will become the History Museum of Sonoma County. 425 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-579-1500, sonomacountymuseum.org
The Annual Fisherman’s Festival comes to Bodega Bay April 11 & 12. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
April 11-12 Bodega Bay Fisherman’s Festival: Built around the Sunday morning “Blessing of the Fleet” ceremony, the two-day celebration salutes those who reap the bounty of the sea, with food, craft booths, live music, specialty beers, wine from more than 25 Sonoma wineries and much more. Don’t miss the bathtub race and wooden boat challenge. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. both days. Free. Westside Regional Park, 2400 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay, bbfishfest.org
April 18-19 Apple Blossom Festival: Sebastopol celebrates its agricultural history and heritage with food, drink, crafts and entertainment. The 68th annual parade down Main Street on April 18 harkens to a simpler, gentler time. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday. $10 general admission, $5 for ages 11-17 and 62 and older; age 10 and under free. Ives Park, 7400 Willow St., and Sebastopol Center for the Arts, 282 High St., Sebastopol, 707-823-3032, sebastopol.org
April 24-26 Passport to Dry Creek Valley: More than 45 wineries throughout Dry Creek Valley open their doors on Saturday and Sunday to offer top-notch wines, gourmet food and live entertainment. New this year is the Prelude to Passport event on Friday, where guests can choose a vineyard tour and lunch or a winemaker dinner. 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. $140 for two-day pass, $80 for Sunday only.
707-433-3031, drycreekvalley.org
The Cutest Chick contest at the Butter & Eggs Festival in Petaluma. (photo by John Burgess)
April 25 Butter & Egg Days Parade & Festival: Celebrate Sonoma’s agricultural roots and Petaluma’s rich history at this 34th annual, all-day community festival. It runs from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., with the popular parade through downtown Petaluma starting at 11:30 a.m. Highlights include the Cutest Chick Contest for kids and the Cow Chip Throwing Contest. Free. 707-762-9348, petalumadowntown.com
April 25-26 April in Carneros: Spend two days celebrating Carneros, the region that bridges Sonoma and Napa counties, with 20 participating wineries, including three located at the Cornerstone Sonoma center in Sonoma. Enjoy food and wine pairings, live entertainment and barrel, reserve and vertical wine tastings. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. both days. $45-$50. 800-909-4352, carneroswineries.org
Marissa Montenegro, left, and Tamra Pinoris enjoy the view at Paradise Ridge Winery, in Santa Rosa, during the Wine Road Barrel Tasting in 2012. (photo by Christopher Chung)
Wine Road Barrel Tasting, a harbinger of spring, may be the geekiest wine event of the year.
Rolling out their barrels and wine thieves in early March, winemakers from the Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys provide a scientific snapshot of how wine evolves, from grape to glass, as visitors taste wines that are not quite finished, still aging in wood barrels. There are no food pairings, no music, no other distractions. This event is all about wine, all the time.
Mazzocco Winery winemaker Antoine Favero, from left, does a barrel tasting with Darrel Bihr and Carol Bihr (Crista Jeremiason / PD FILE)
“It’s a great education for people who are interested in learning about wine,” said Beth Costa, executive director of the Wine Road-Northern Sonoma County, which sponsors the event. “The winemaker can talk you through the flavors they taste in the wines right now, then talk about how they feel the wine will evolve with more time in the barrel.”
The curtain-raiser on the future started back in 1978 as a one-day tasting at six wineries. Today, the popular event is held at upwards of 130 wineries during the course of the first two weekends in March and attracts 12,000 people, from wine novices looking to train their palates to serious collectors planning to buy wine futures at a discount.
A few weeks before the event, winemakers choose which barrels they will draw from during the tasting. Collectors can peruse the list online to decide where they want to taste and purchase futures. They pay cash up front to receive a discount then pick up the bottled wine 12 to 18 months later when it’s ready to drink.
Tasting young wines from barrels allows consumers to invest in the future of the winery, providing extra cash flow early on to the producers. It also offers a behind-the-scenes experience of the winemaking process. As participants sip the gangly wines, they pick up tips on discerning the absence of flaws and learn to recognize a good balance of fruit, tannin and acidity.
With no Robert Parker or Wine Spectator scores to use as a crutch, barrel tasters have to rely on their own palates. Before they know it, they’re sniffing, swirling and sipping like a true wine geek.
In January, Santa Rosa native Kevin Jorgeson and
partner Tommy Caldwell climbed onto the rim of El Capitan and into history. Hand over hand against the granite, their lives changed forever. (photo by Corey Rich)
Kevin Jorgeson sat in his tent, which dangled like a giant piñata more than 1,000 feet off the ground, and inspected his hands once again. The skin on his fingertips was shredded, the result of two weeks spent scaling the cold, rough granite of El Capitan, the towering monolith overlooking Yosemite Valley.
Jorgeson — a Santa Rosa native who’d grown up climbing the artificial walls at a local gym and the cliffs of Goat Rock on the Sonoma Coast — and his climbing partner Tommy Caldwell were deep into a punishing bid to make history on El Cap.
Kevin Jorgeson curls his fingers on top of a granite edge. (photo by Corey Rich)
But halfway up the sheer 3,000-foot slab, Jorgeson was in trouble. He had been stalled for nearly a week on the climb’s toughest single roped section, or pitch, having fallen eight times on a brutal, 80-foot-long, right-to-left traverse with dime-sized handholds and ledges for his feet that were little thicker than matchsticks. Pinching the razor-sharp rock over and over, he had ripped open the fingertips of his right index and middle fingers — the two digits he needed to execute the moves that would get him through the daunting Pitch 15.
“Fingers are pretty beat, which is a frustrating limiting factor, but a reality of this project,” Jorgeson wrote to me in an email from the rock face.
The dispatch, sent via a solar-powered iPhone from the hanging tent he called home for 19 days, came at a pivotal moment. Caldwell had completed Pitch 15 and was pushing on, moving upward while his partner rested. With Jorgeson at a standstill, an ambitious ascent that seemingly overnight had drawn the world’s gaze was suddenly cast in doubt.
Kevin Jorgeson, climber of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Hallowed ground for mountaineers for more than half a century, El Capitan’s soaring face of glacier-carved stone has been a canvas for all manner of audacious climbing feats. They range from the early ascents of the 1950s and 1960s, in which climbers wore hiking boots and pulled themselves up on ropes, to the competitive bids for speed records over the past decade that have seen climbers top out in less than three hours.
Jorgeson, 30, and Caldwell, 36, were after something different. The pair had teamed up more than five years earlier to chart a new path to the top of El Cap. Ascending only through their grip on the rock, employing ropes solely for protection — a method known as “free climbing” — they sought to complete, in one sustained attempt, a nearly tile-smooth route with a poetic name: the Dawn Wall.
Even among elite climbers, the project seemed almost unachievable. Most agreed it was the toughest route in Yosemite, and very likely the most difficult big-wall climb in the world.
Jorgeson and Caldwell had set out Dec. 27 in relative obscurity. But a little more than a week into the climb, news of the project unexpectedly went viral. Fellow climbers, photographers and rubberneckers began assembling in a meadow on the valley floor to watch their progress. The attention, which grew to include newspaper reporters and broadcast outlets from across the world, represented a new level even for Yosemite, where the combination of spectacular scenery and daredevil mountaineering have long attracted the public’s fascination.
(photo by Corey Rich)
Jorgeson and Caldwell stoked much of the publicity themselves, posting near-daily recaps on Twitter and Facebook and granting several midclimb interviews. A camera crew strapped to the rock near the climbers provided eagle-eye images of their otherwise solitary and slow-moving endeavor. The hashtag #DawnWall began trending on Twitter.
And now Jorgeson was parked in his tent, visualizing Pitch 15 and hoping his fingers could heal for one more go.
As Jorgeson’s loved ones back home in Sonoma County watched and prayed, the climbers neared a moment of truth. With an unpredictable weather window, both of them knew Caldwell couldn’t wait forever. They did not openly discuss the possibility of Jorgeson giving up, and the Santa Rosa climber would later portray his mood in the moment as upbeat and determined, offering only a hint of the uncertainty that clouded his climb.
Big-wall chef Tommy Caldwell cooks up some gruel on his hanging propane stove in his portaledge camp 1,200 feet up the side of El Capitan. (photo by Corey Rich)
“It really did feel like a matter of time, but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have my doubts and frustrations going through that process,” he said.
But he was less guarded in correspondence with family. After falling several times on Pitch 15, forcing him to back down, he sent a text message to his girlfriend, Jacqui Becker, that consisted of a single word: “Devastated.”
Kevin Jorgeson always knew this moment might come, though. He had spent virtually his entire life pushing the world’s vertical boundaries.
As a boy, Jorgeson would jump off the roof into the family pool when no one was looking, and terrify his mother, Gaelena, with Eskimo rolls in the kayak. Always, he was climbing.
“He hung off of every doorjamb,” Gaelena Jorgeson said. “It was almost like how he got through a house. He would crimp anything — the edge of a table, the corner of anything.”
Kevin Jorgeson climbs at Vertex Climbing Center in Santa Rosa in 2001 when he was a sophomore. (photo by Mary Gardella)
Growing up in Santa Rosa’s Rincon Valley neighborhood, Kevin would climb a friend’s brick fireplace when he went over for a playdate. He clambered up the exterior wall at Longs Drugs, his aunt serving as lookout. He scaled the rudimentary climbing wall at the back of Sonoma Outfitters when the store was on Third Street near Railroad Square.
It was almost enough to make the family forget how vulnerable Jorgeson was as a small child. When he was 5 months old, the natural sutures running front to back along the top of his skull fused prematurely. Doctors had to remove a 2½-inch-wide strip of bone from his forehead to the nape of his neck.
“We call him Zipperhead,” Gaelena said. “If you part his hair it looks like a train track.”
Kevin also had bouts of severe kidney pain as a young child. When he was 6 his physicians finally diagnosed a clogged tube in his urinary system. Jorgeson still has about one-quarter function in one kidney.
Jorgeson’s life-changing event was the opening of Vertex Climbing Center in Santa Rosa when he was 11. He immediately became a regular at the gym on Coffey Lane, and soon was winning climbing competitions.
“He found what he’s good at early in life,” said Sarah McKay, co-owner of Vertex. “But also, he’s a very serious person, a very thoughtful person, and I think that has a lot to do with it, too. I don’t think just any talented young man or teen would have excelled as quickly or taken it as far as Kevin did.”
Jorgeson gained wider acclaim in highball bouldering, which involves technically difficult but shorter routes on big boulders, usually with pads to break a climber’s fall rather than ropes to catch him. He lined up his first sponsor — Marmot, the apparel and equipment maker long headquartered in Santa Rosa and now based in Rohnert Park — at 16. (see 2001 Press Democrat story on Kevin Jorgeson)
The attention was nice, but it wasn’t what pulled Jorgeson into the sport.
“Everything goes quiet when you are in the zone,” Jorgeson told The Press Democrat in 2011. “You are pasted like a freckle against the granite, but all the moves are working. You’re moving smoothly, precisely, focused. I’m my happiest when I’m up there climbing.”
Like many indoor walls, Vertex functions as the hub of Sonoma County’s tight-knit climbing community, and Jorgeson quickly became a part of the inner circle. Older, more experienced climbers introduced him to choice outdoor spots stretching from Stinson Beach to Fort Ross. For those climbers, to this day, Jorgeson remains the cheerful but introverted teenager, or the energetic 20-something with remarkable skills.
“Kevin is probably one of the most, if not the most, precise climber on earth,” said Rusty Klassen, a Healdsburg climber and water consultant who has known Jorgeson for 18 years. “Apart from being extraordinarily strong, he has a mapping intelligence in his head that is irrefutably an expression of his finesse as a climber. If there are 6,000 holds on a wall, he knows exactly where they are.”
Climbing has taken Jorgeson all over the world, from Austria to Japan, and Brazil to South Africa. But he never lost his passion for working the Sonoma Coast cliffs. “I wouldn’t call it a destination,” he said recently. “It’s a humble local spot, but for Sonoma County climbers it’s the place to be.”
Jorgeson’s father, Eric, and brother, Matt, both live in Idaho. But his mother still lives in Santa Rosa, and Kevin, a Maria Carrillo High School graduate, recently moved back to Santa Rosa with Becker
after a couple years of vagabonding.
The world is Jorgeson’s climbing wall, but this is his home.
“I’d say that’s one reason he’s shooting to stay in Sonoma County — which is kind of a different place for a professional climber to live,” said McKay, Vertex’s co-owner. “Most move to Colorado. It’s a no-brainer. I think he prefers the intimacy of people who have known him a long time.”
In 2009, Jorgeson happened to see a video about a climb Caldwell had been mapping out for two years — one that Caldwell, a well-known and seasoned professional climber, dubbed the Dawn Wall Project. The two knew one another, but hadn’t done much on the rock together. When Jorgeson asked Caldwell if he wanted a partner, the answer surprised him: “Yes.”
They became friends united in a nearly unimaginable quest. For Jorgeson, it would be the first big-wall climb of his life.
El Capitan has been climbed hundreds of times, along numerous parallel and interlocking routes. Many have free-climbed it — that is, scaled the rock using ropes for protection, but not to ascend. The Dawn Wall, however, had never been free-climbed.
“You look at it and you’re like, that is porcelain,” Jorgeson told me in July 2014. “… Day One, when Tommy and I met in the meadow to climb for the first time, I knew roughly what section of wall it was, but I literally couldn’t see a weakness in the wall.”
There are longer ascents than the Dawn Wall, and sections of other climbs that are tougher. But most seasoned mountaineers agree the route Caldwell charted on El Cap presents the most arduous sustained climbing on the planet.
It was this challenge that drew Jorgeson to the climb, along with his lifelong love of the outdoors.
“As mainstream media started to pick up on the story, we would read these headlines about thrill-seekers and hikers and conquering this and that,” Jorgeson said. “This isn’t so much a man-versus-nature type of project. On the contrary, it’s such a cool thing to be in total balance with Yosemite and El Cap and put up this route. … It comes back to that inspiration, that dream of seeing something through.”
Both climbers said they visited the wall in their dreams. Caldwell customized a training wall at his home in Estes Park, Colo., simulating one of the Dawn Wall’s more acrobatic moves.
“This very clear objective drives my climbs,” Caldwell said last summer. “All year long I’m thinking about it.”
Every November he and Jorgeson would converge upon Yosemite with carloads of gear, and friends would help them schlep all of it to the top of El Cap — hundreds of yards of rope, plus food, clothing and camping essentials. They would spend weeks practicing various pitches along the wall. Several times they tried to “push” the route — complete it from bottom to top in one continual ascent — but they never got far.
The weather imposed boundaries. On even moderately warm days, the sun’s rays blast the southeast-facing Dawn Wall — named because it catches the first light of day — like a tanning bed. Climbers’ hands begin to sweat, and the rubber soles of their climbing shoes become gooey. Climbing in rain or heavy winds is out, too.
In effect, Jorgeson and Caldwell were limited to crisp, dry days. Some years, those were rare. In 2013, in the teeth of California’s worst recorded drought, they went home before Christmas. It was simply too hot.
And yet little by little, they began to figure out the Dawn Wall. Caldwell finished the last unscaled section in November, and they resolved to push the route this winter.
It’s strange to recall how little fanfare accompanied the launch. Friends and family eagerly followed their progress, but few people outside of the climbing world had any inkling.
Kevin Jorgeson, left, of Santa Rosa takes a fall while free climbing the first pitch of his final day on El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley on January 14, 2015. Jorgeson returned to the beginning of the pitch and completed it. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
That changed in the early days of January, when media coverage snowballed and Jorgeson and Caldwell started popping up on news reports and in social media networks across the globe. People with no prior interest in climbing became fascinated with the two men perched on the side of El Capitan, sleeping in suspended tents called portaledges. They climbed largely at night to beat the heat, their lamps creating small circles of light on the massive rock face.
In a cruel twist, the initial wave of wider public attention arrived just as Jorgeson got stuck on Pitch 15. Klassen, the Healdsburg climber, said the struggle boosted the story’s appeal. Jorgeson became Everyman, wrestling with his limits and an intimidating fortress of rock. People tuned in to see if he would persevere.
For Jorgeson’s family, the test was torture.
“Seven days kind of breaks a mama’s heart,” Gaelena Jorgeson said. “You want to pick him up and put him on the summit. I did not want him in pain, did not want him to question himself, did not want him to give up.”
Kevin Jorgeson took his third rest day while stuck on Pitch 15 and did his best to stay busy, warding off doubts. He stared at tricky holds and tried placing his feet at various angles. He applied copious salves to his hands. He obsessively studied weather reports and nibbled on ibuprofen. He visualized moves for Pitch 15 over and over. Most important, he analyzed video of his failures, searching for explanations.
Tommy Caldwell, in yellow, leads Kevin Jorgenson, in red, of Santa Rosa, on the final pitch of their free climb of El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley with on January 14, 2015. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
On Jan. 9, Jorgeson tried again. He fell. He tried again … and he fell. Once more he shimmied over to the crucial hand hold on the traverse, his 11th try at Pitch 15. As he pushed himself from the sharp rock, his right index finger split open in five places, spraying blood like a sprinkler head. If he tumbled, he’d have to enter another cycle of rest.
But he nailed the move. The project was alive.
“Pure joy,” Jorgeson tweeted that night. “Pitch 15 finally went down after 11 attempts over 7 days…THANK YOU SO MUCH to everyone who has followed along, believed and supported us. It’s not over yet.”
In fact, the rest of the climb was anything but a cakewalk. Even when Jorgeson caught up to Caldwell they had another 1,000 vertical feet to tackle, along some unfamiliar and highly technical pitches. The toughest stretches in the middle of the climb were rated 5.14 on the standard Yosemite Decimal System. The pitches near the top were in the 5.12 category, still a challenge even for elite climbers.
On Jan. 14, just a couple hundred feet from the top, a maneuver on Pitch 30 proved more troublesome than anyone anticipated. It was a wide and diagonally ascending crack, a “flare.” Jorgeson and Caldwell had climbed it only once, back in 2009.
“And it felt utterly impossible,” Jorgeson said.
Spectators filled the El Capitan meadow in Yosemite Valley on Wednesday to watch as Kevin Jorgenson, of Santa Rosa and Tommy Caldwell try to summit the rock to become the first to free climb the peak. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
A few of the climbers’ family members and friends had assembled on the summit. Many more were below in the meadow, along with dozens of onlookers and reporters, all fixated on El Cap. NBC News had set up a live video stream of Jorgeson and Caldwell on its website, capturing the homestretch in real time. The last section was within sight. And suddenly the whole project was at risk again.
“After my first attempt I was like, ‘Holy shit. I’m gonna get shut down on the Dawn Wall because of a 5.12 flare pitch. On the last
day,’ ” Jorgeson said. “I tried to keep it together.”
Caldwell had climbed the flare right-side-in. Jorgeson mimicked him without success. So the younger climber switched to left-side-in and created a new set of holds on the fly. It worked.
Tommy Caldwell (rear) and Santa Rosa’s Kevin Jorgeson reach the summit of El Capitan Wednesday, Jan. 14 after a 19-day free-climbing ascent of the Dawn Wall route. (Matt Brown / The Press Democrat)
When the pair finally topped out about 3:30 p.m., cheers echoed from the meadow more than half a mile below. Jorgeson and Caldwell were grubby and unwashed, but were greeted warmly by loved ones, fellow climbers and a few media types at the summit.
“It’s over,” Jorgeson said. “I can’t believe it.” He called the climb “the most intense experience of my entire life.”
Someone produced two bottles of sparkling wine from Iron Horse Vineyards in Sebastopol.
From underneath his puffy jacket, Jorgeson unveiled the lime green T-shirt he had worn for the entire climb. It bore a design from his late friend Brad Parker, a popular Sebastopol climber who had fallen to his death while “free soloing” — climbing without rope protection — on Matthes Crest in Yosemite on Aug. 16. Parker had proposed to his girlfriend just hours before on the summit of Cathedral Peak.
Gaelena Jorgeson, center in red, of Santa Rosa celebrates as her son, Kevin, completes the first free climb of El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley on Wednesday. Terry Caldwell, right, mother of Jorgeson’s climbing partner Tommy Caldwell, and her grandson Grant Van Nieuwenhuysen, 12, join the jubilation in the meadow. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The logo of the foundation friends established in Parker’s name to support outdoor education in Sonoma County was there on Jorgeson’s shirt. And the climb, he said, was his grander tribute to Parker, whose memory pulled him through some of the toughest sections on the wall.
“There would be times I would be cruxing (on a difficult section) on the wall and I would be like, ‘Help me out, Brad! I need some help right now.’ And I’d pull through,” he said.
Kevin Jorgeson’s life changed the moment he stepped onto the rim of El Cap. Hours after that wobbly walk, he and Caldwell received a congratulatory tweet from President Obama, who proclaimed, “You remind us that anything is possible.” A week later the climbers chatted with Ellen Degeneres on the set of her afternoon television show, and a week after that they were feted by the prestigious American Alpine Club, which made Jorgeson and Caldwell honorary members.
Kevin Jorgeson pops a bottle of sparkling wine to celebrate his historic free-climb ascent of El Capitan’s Dawn Wall, as Becca Caldwell, the wife of his climbing partner Tommy Caldwell, looks on. (Max Whittaker/The New York Times)
When Jorgeson spoke to me again by phone on Jan. 23, he was standing atop Turtleback Dome in Yosemite, where he was shooting a cover for Vanity Fair.
To the climbers’ utter surprise, they have become pop-up heroes, Twitter-age symbols of grand adventure. They are expected to reap professional and financial gain from their triumph, but Jorgeson is determined to bend the attention to higher purposes.
“I think the Dawn Wall has given climbing a lot of great global visibility already,” he said, openly wondering how greater money and influence might benefit not just him and Caldwell, but others in the sport. “I imagine it will be easier to accomplish the goals we set forth, but in radically new ways because of the resources at our disposal. Which is exciting.”
From left: Becca and Tommy Caldwell, and Jacqui Becker and Kevin Jorgeson embrace after the two men completed a free climb summit of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan. (Max Whittaker/The New York Times)
For Jorgeson, many of those goals will be articulated through Pro Climbers International, the organization he and Klassen founded in 2009. PCI promotes and advocates for climbers and sets up instructional events across the country. Jorgeson said he is determined to help other up-and-coming climbers avoid the inequity he said he sometimes experienced at the hands of sponsors.
Klassen is convinced Jorgeson has the goods to propel rock climbing onto a bigger stage, and that now is precisely the time to do it.
“It’s a lot like surfing was in 1967,” Klassen said. “This is that seminal moment, and Kevin is in a position to carry the conversation.”
He is already proving an able spokesman. The day after Jorgeson and Caldwell summited, the National Park Service organized a press conference in El Cap Meadow. Caldwell had caught a cold, and his voice had been reduced to a dry croak, so Jorgeson did most of the talking.
Kevin Jorgenson, of Santa Rosa, and Tommy Caldwell, right, talked to the press after completing the first free climb of the Dawn Wall route of El Capitan yesterday. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
“I think what’s interesting about this project is it has elements that everyone can relate to,” Jorgeson said. “It’s a big dream, it takes a lot of hard work to make it happen. There’s elements of teamwork that Tommy and I have forged over the last six years. And those are the elements that any big dream needs to come true. So I hope that everyone that has been following along can take the Dawn Wall as an example of what’s possible and find their own Dawn Wall.”
Three days later, Jorgeson picked up the theme again, encouraging his Twitter followers to post their dreams along with the hashtag #WhatsYourDawnWall.
And something remarkable happened. Jorgeson started getting replies, lots of replies. Some were from rock climbers plotting their next big ascent, but many had nothing to do with the sport. They were intimate, heartfelt, sometimes beautiful, and sent by complete strangers.
“My Dawn Wall is to get my book published,” a woman wrote.
“Adjusting to being a good father and husband. Having the patience to get through each day,” a man wrote.
“Putting PTSD behind me and moving forward. Taken a lot of years but finally sending it,” wrote a former soldier.
Kevin Jorgeson, climber of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Just like that, Kevin Jorgeson had become America’s sounding board. Inspired by his wild dream and soaring achievement, people everywhere were stepping up their goals.
From atop Turtleback Dome, the mountain winds muffling his phone, Jorgeson suggested the connections he and Caldwell made could be the real enduring impression of the Dawn Wall climb, as much as the awesome scenery and their pioneering feat on the rock.
“There was that relief of the stress of the climb being over when we topped out,” Jorgeson said. “Now, in the aftermath, I don’t think I’ll have to worry about my livelihood anymore. I don’t want to make this about money, but it is its own kind of relief.
“More important than that stuff, though, are all the cool opportunities that may arise, and the people who are inspired by our story. I think they’re inspired because our project came from a very pure place. And I think it’s great that people recognize that.”
— Press Democrat reporter Matt Brown contributed to this story from the summit of the historic climb.
For the sixth year, Sonoma celebrates all things delicious during Restaurant Week 2015, March 9-15.
More than 100 restaurants from Petaluma to Geyserville (and all points in between) participate, serving prix-fixe (fixed-price) lunch and dinner menus ranging from a thrifty $10 two-course lunch to more elegant $39 three-course dinners. Each restaurant selects its own price point, with lunches at $10, $15 and $20 (tax, tip and beverages not included), and $19, $29 and $39 for dinners.
So how to choose? The best way to make your way through Restaurant Week is by doing your homework. Scan the Sonoma County Restaurant Week website, sonomacountyrestaurantweek.org, where menus and prices are listed. Reservations are highly recommended, since many restaurants book up in advance.
Go with a sense of adventure! Most restaurants offer a few different choices for each course (usually with a vegetarian and gluten-free option), but the menus are usually a creative outlet for the kitchen to really showcase what’s great about the restaurant — and get you to come back. If you’ve got a prix-fixe party pooper in your group, most restaurants also offer their usual menus, so no one goes home hungry.
UPDATE: The restaurant is now slated for a late July 2015 opening.
Amy’s Burger prepared for the forthcoming Amy’s Drive Thru from Amy’s Kitchen
How long does it take to develop a veggie burger that could go toe-to-toe with In-N-Out? Roughly two years. Or, at least that’s how long the R&D team at Amy’s Kitchen has been working on the double-stack burger for their forthcoming fast-food eatery.
Amy’s Drive Thru is slated for a May-ish late June opening in Rohnert Park. It will be a fast-food concept restaurant developed by healthy frozen-food pioneer Amy’s Kitchen. BiteClub got a sneak preview of what’s going on the menu — and hold onto your greasy little steering wheel, ‘cause your meals-on-the-go are about to get a whole lot better.
Amy’s Drive Thru will open in Rohnert Park late spring 2015.
Piled with sweet pickles, lettuce, brilliant red tomato slices, cheese, “special sauce” and a soft bun, the “Amy’s Burger” is a beefy mouth-stretcher (without the beef, of course) that can satisfy the most devout carnivore. And that’s a good thing, considering that In-N-Out and McDonald’s will be within spitting distance of their Redwood Drive location.
But getting that fast-food experience with the meat-free philosophy of Amy’s Kitchen hasn’t been, well, a picnic.
“We’ve grilled enough burgers (in the R&D lab) to run the restaurant for a month and a half. Multiple times,” said head food developer Fred Scarpulla. Trial and error can be delicious, but not necessarily easy. Not to mention that everything on the menu comes in vegan and gluten-free versions. So that’s another whole set of recipe testing.
Amy’s Drive Thru will open in Rohnert Park late spring 2015.
But as of late February, 2015 the opening menu will include not just the burgers, but meatless chili cheese fries, milkshakes, mac and cheese, personal pizzas, burritos, salads and natural sodas made with GMO-free, organic ingredients, many of which are sourced locally. More than rehashed versions of their frozen meals, these are dishes that have been entirely created for a fast-food experience.
“We make it all, and we make it from scratch, said Scarpulla. That alsoincludes the potatoes, which are specially grown for the company. “We’ve tasted every kind of potato to find the perfect potato,” said co-owner Rachel Berliner, who with husband Andy were at the tasting.
“I’m super excited to pull up and just get this food to go,” said Rachel. “I’m that person.”
If all goes well, much of Sonoma County will be those people, too. How many times have you asked yourself why someone can’t come up with a healthier version of fast food? Amy’s may have just cracked the code.
Expect to pay under $10 for a double cheeseburger, fries and a shake, and less than $5 for a burrito.
A mangalista pig from Winkler Wooly Pigs in Windsor. Photo from Tim Winkler.
A mangalista pig from Winkler Wooly Pigs in Windsor. Photo from Tim Winkler.
If you haven’t heard about the mangalitsa pig, you should. This prized, wooly breed is fatty and flavorful, and definitely not “the other white meat.”
A number of chefs are now harvesting the animals, and are offering them on the menu, but by far the best Mangalitsa-centric (secret) feast we’ve seen lately is this Tuesday, February 24, 2015 at the Epicurean Social Club/Matrix Winery dinner in Santa Rosa.
Feast on charcuterie, pork rinds with pork lard, pork sliders with saffron rouille, pork jowl bacon, pork belly sous vide, pork tenderloin with vanilla bean sauce and wild mushroom risotto, leaf-lard cocoa nib cookies sandwiches and of your the bacon-chocolate brittle goodie bag.
This intimate cheese festival at Sonoma Cooking School, Ramekins Sunday, Feb 22 is one of the best opportunities to get face-to-face with Bay Area artisan cheesemakers. Cheesemonger Sheana Davis of the Epicurean Connection hosts the annual event, which includes a mac and cheese cookoff, cheese-tastings and beer, wine and cider tastings. Plus guest chefs, live local music and of course, cheese wheel races. The event is $50 per person, 21+only. And trust us, you won’t walk away hungry or thirsty. Tickets available online, event lasts from 1-4pm
Mini fried octopus at Quickly in Santa Rosa. Photo: Heather Irwin
This week marked the official kick-off for Chinese New Year, a two week festival of food and family. The annual spring celebration ushers in the promise of good fortune with steaming bowls of noodles, whole fish, sweets, citrus and other “lucky” delicacies.
This year’s star of the zodiac? The goat, an animal notorious for its appetite. (Okay, some say its the sheep, but they eat a lot too.) We say that’s good enough reason to break out of your sweet and sour pork rut and try something new at some of Sonoma County’s favorite Chinese eateries.
1. New! 5. Fried tenpura and egg puffs at Quickly: Based in Taiwan, this wacky fast-food transplant is all about the tea — be it green, black, flavored with roses, coffee, red beans or waxed gourds — supplemented with tapioca boba or grass jelly. Just dive in, because it’s all an adventure. Pair with an eye-popping menu of deep fried yummies including mini octopus, tofu, tenpura (bits of octopus inside a ball of corn-dog-like batter) and fish balls, which are pressed bits of fried fish, and not part of the fish’s, uh, reproductive anatomy. If you’re a little skeetchy about trying new flavors, go with the egg puffs. Though they look like a giant square of bubble wrap, the taste is similar to a really eggy waffle. Expect a line of hungry Santa Rosa Junior College students ahead of you. 1880 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa.
2. Steamed bao, pork belly and bbq pork at G+G Market: The local grocery market is an under-the-radar gem for all things Chinese–at a great price. We’re huge fans of their steamed bao and bbq pork, available in the deli. You can also find just about any Asian ingredient, from lychee jelly to black bean paste and dried shrimp, in their extensive grocery section. You’ll walk away with plenty of food for far less than you’d pay at a restaurant. 1211 W. College Ave, Santa Rosa and 701 Sonoma Mt. Parkway, Petaluma.
3. Chicken feet, tofu skin at Hang Ah: Dim sum fans agree that this is the best dim sum in the North Bay. The menu is massive, and chances are you won’t recognize about half of the small plates. But at just $2-$4 each, its worth some experimentation. Chicken feet are exactly that. They’re a huge delicacy, and folks raised on ‘em swear by them. Personally, I’m not a fan, but I did try one. Tofu skin? Sounds gross, tastes incredible. 2130 Armory Rd, Santa Rosa.
Egg Puffs from Quickly in Santa Rosa.
4. Cantonese Roast Duck and Ma Po Tofu at MY Noodles: Martin Yan’s noodle shop at the Graton Casino is a hugely-overlooked restaurant with really solid (and authentic) Chinese favorites. The really like the hoisin-glazed roast duck and bite of ma pao tofu, a vegetarian specialty with brown beat sauce and spicy peppercorn oil. 288 Golf Course West Dr., Rohnert Park.
5. Hot and Sour Soup at Kirin Restaurant: I’m a recent convert to hot and sour, over my usual wonton. Filled with wood ear mushrooms, bamboo shoots, feathery bits of egg, and a hearty kick of spice, it’s my new alternative to chicken soup for anything that ails you. 2700 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa.
6. Bakery goodies from East Wind Bakery: Just about everyone who’s been to this charming little Asian bakery has raved about the baked bao in flavors like kimchee-sausage and curried beef, along with Chinese sponge cakes, and taro buns. I’m also ga-ga for their milk bread. 3851 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa.
7. Goji Kitchen: This Pan-Asian restaurant has become a junior college-area staple because of its extensive menu of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes, and also because of their dedication to fresh, often organic products and extensive vegetarian selections. Though its not exactly authentic, you’ve gotta try the walnut pineapple prawn (the best in the area, hands-down), along with clay pot rice (with the crispy rice on the bottom) and house made pot stickers with ginger garlic sauce. 1965 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa.
8. Lily Kai: My favorite CHP officer is a huge fan of this out-of-the-way Petaluma restaurant, and their dim sum. And that’s not something you argue with. Top bets include Siu Mai (pork and shrimp dumplings), mo shu (vegetables and thinly-sliced meat with thin pancakes and hoisin sauce) and broccoli beef. 3100 Lakeville Hwy., Petaluma.
January and February are quiet, contemplative months to enjoy wine, with most wineries less crowded than in other seasons and the new-vintage wines resting comfortably in barrels — yet sometimes available to taste. Wineries with caves and fireplaces are particularly worth seeking out. Wine writer Virginie Boone recommends these wineries for wintertime sojourns. They are open to the public, typically from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Contact the individual tasting room to confirm.
Anaba Wines, 60 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-996-4188, anabawines.com. A specialist in Rhone-inspired wines, both red and white, Anaba’s tasting room is in a 100-year-old farmhouse overlooking the Carneros hills. It’s a fine place to learn about wine, beginning with the Friday through Monday “Beyond the Label” experience, a one-hour discussion that varies from week to week. Tuesday through Thursday, enjoy the Salon Tasting, a sit-down guided tasting of several wines ($30, reservations required).
Cairdean Vineyards & Winery, 3111 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-968-5434, cairdeanestate.com. New on the northern Napa Valley scene, Cairdean produces a great variety of wines from grapes grown in Napa and Sonoma. It also offers a sprawling empire of deliciousness, from The Farmer & the Fox gourmet gastropub, open for dinner until 10 p.m., to its well-appointed Butterscots Bakery, the perfect stop for cappuccino and croissants, with an outdoor fire pit as an additional perk. The tasting room is open daily until 8 p.m. for comfortable tastings, making it easy for folks to segue to dinner next door.
Castello di Amorosa, 4045 North St. Helena Highway, Calistoga, 707-967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com. Winter is a good time to revisit 13th-century Tuscany, the inspiration for this winery’s fanciful castle. It has an underground dungeon and torture chamber, defensive towers, moats, a drawbridge, high walls and caves, and took 14 years to build. The wines are also Italian-inspired, from Sangiovese to super Tuscan blends.
Cline Cellars, 24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800-546-2070, clinecellars.com. Another beautifully set winery with roaming gardens, Carneros-based Cline offers complimentary tastings daily of five of its Rhone-style wines and, for $5, will add three reserve wines. The initial site of the final California mission in 1820, later moved to downtown Sonoma, the property includes a museum devoted to the state’s mission history and includes models of all 21 missions, originally built for the 1939 World’s Fair. Entrance is free to the museum, open daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., though reservations for large groups are required.
Dutcher Crossing Winery, 8533 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville, 866-431-2711, dutchercrossingwinery.com. Cozy in winter with its tasting-room fireplace, Dutcher Crossing offers a range of wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel. On rainy days, warm the palate with the winery’s popular port (if it’s not already sold out), made from Zinfandel grapes and high-proof brandy and aged three years.
Emeritus Vineyards, 2500 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, 707-823-4464, emeritusvineyards.com. Focused entirely on estate-bottled Pinot Noir, Emeritus invites tasters by appointment to its Hallberg Ranch for a 90-minute tour of the winery ($20) and tasting of current-release wines. Alternatively, visitors can sample through the Pinots in a 45-minute tasting ($10).
Etude Wines, 1250 Cuttings Wharf Road, Napa, 707-257-5300, etude-wines.com. Etude has long been a great name for Carneros Pinot Noir (and many other wines). Yet in 2012, Etude winemaker Jon Priest decided to take on the world, offering wine lovers the chance to come to one place and taste not only Carneros Pinot Noir, but also several versions from Santa Barbara County (where Priest grew up), Sonoma Coast, Willamette Valley and, most unusually, New Zealand’s Central Otago region.
Fritz Winery, 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale, 800-418-9463, fritzwinery.com. Also known as Fritz Underground Winery, this winery is built into the side of a hill at the northern end of Dry Creek Valley. The underground part stays naturally cool. Gravity is used to gently move the wines, which run the gamut from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. The Late-Harvest Zinfandel ideal in winter.
Grgich Hills Estate, 1829 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, 800-532-3057, grgich.com. The mighty Grgich Hills, a wonderful producer of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, offers a slew of fine visitor experiences, from barrel tasting every Friday from 2 to 4 p.m., to seated wine tastings with cheese ($40). On any day, the staff will order box lunches for visitors to enjoy on site, with advance notice.
Hall Wines, 401 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-967-2626, hallwines.com. Home to the gigantic silver bunny sculpture, Hall celebrates wine and art. Visitors can stroll through its winery enjoying works of modern art and sculptures while sampling its high-quality wines. Hall also has a winery in Rutherford that’s off the beaten track and can be visited too, for tours and tastings, by appointment.
Imagery Estate Winery, 14335 Highway 12, Glen Ellen, 707-935-4515, imagerywinery.com. Run by Joe Benziger, Imagery is as devoted to cool artwork as it is to producing great wines, including many made from unusual varieties such as Tempranillo and Lagrein. Its wine labels reflect its dual sensibilities. Check out the label gallery online and be sure to take the time to peruse the on-site art gallery as well.
Iron Horse Vineyards, 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com. This sparkling wine producer in Green Valley of Russian River Valley makes a wide selection of special bottlings that are bubbly, as well as stellar still Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. There’s a gorgeous view from the outdoor tasting bar, which is covered in case of rain. A tour and tasting with winemaker David Munksgard happens every Monday at 10 a.m. (limit 4 people; $50 per person) and should not be missed.
J Vineyards & Winery, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-5400, jwine.com. A glass of bubbly is always a good thing, and this is a well-appointed spot at which to have one, as well as taste J’s increasing lineup of single-vineyard Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. The J Bubble Room pairs wines with exquisite, locally sourced dishes.
Jamieson Ranch Vineyards, 1 Kirkland Ranch Road, American Canyon, 707-254-8673, jamiesonranch.com. The Napa Valley’s southernmost winery, Jamieson Ranch is modeled after a Western lodge, relaxed and expansive — and surrounded by 300 acres of vineyards. Open daily, it offers tastes of wines under the Jamieson Ranch label (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon) and Reata, focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as Light Horse. Light Horse gained cred from its appearance on the “Today” show, where Leslie Sbrocco recommended its value-priced Pinot Noir.
Lancaster Estate, 15001 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-8178, lancasterestate.com. A premium producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley, near where it touches neighboring Chalk Hill and Knights Valley, Lancaster offers a daily tour and tasting experience that includes a look at its 53 acres of hillside vineyards, winery production area and caves, and a seated tasting of four estate wines ($35, reservations required), centered on Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc. A similar experience can be accompanied by artisan cheeses for $45.
Marimar Estate, 11400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-4365, marimarestate.com. A leader in cool-climate winemaking and viticulture, as well as organic and Biodynamic farming, Marimar Estate is a beautiful place to visit and learn about diurnal temperature shifts along the western Sonoma Coast, as well as to taste what it all means in the glass. A traditional tasting of five wines is offered daily for $10; reserve ahead to take part in a tapas and wine pairing experience for $45. Tours are available weekdays at 11 a.m. or 2 p.m., by appointment.
Odette Estate, 5998 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-224-7533, odettewinery.com. PlumpJack’s latest endeavor, Odette is open daily by appointment for tasting and an exploration of its 45 acres of prime real estate within the Stags Leap District AVA, the provenance of silky, mouth-filling Cabernet Sauvignons.
Paradise Ridge/Byck Family Winery, 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-528-9463, prwinery.com. Situated on 156 acres with outsized views looking west over Santa Rosa and to the coast, Paradise Ridge’s winery makes a range of worthy Russian River Valley and Rockpile wines. It’s also devoted to outdoor sculpture, a selection of which is featured throughout the property in Marijke’s Grove.
Patz & Hall’s Sonoma House, 21200 Eighth St. E., Sonoma, 877-265-6700, patzhall.com. In a well-appointed house in the Carneros region, this chic tasting spot highlights all the delights of Patz & Hall, a specialist in single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Taste four wines for $25 with truffle nuts, or go for the sit-down Salon Experience, a discussion and tasting of six wines with meticulously prepared mini-meals ($50). Chances are the day will start off with a glass of bubbly to open the palate. Friday through Sunday, enjoy the Terrace Tasting, an intimate tableside tasting of single-vineyard wines with local cheese ($40).
Pine Ridge Vineyards, 5901 Silverado Trail, Napa, 800-575-9777, pineridgevineyards.com. Within the Stags Leap District, Pine Ridge makes wines from a handful of Napa Valley appellations (Carneros, Howell Mountain, Oakville, Rutherford and Stags Leap). Its 5×5 Tasting ($95) in the caves provides the opportunity to try five estate-grown wines paired with small bites. In good weather, book a Taste on the Terrace ($50), a self-guided tasting of four wines with cheese and charcuterie, with views of the Stags Leap Palisades.
Quivira Vineyards & Winery, 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com. A wonderland of natural beauty in all seasons, Quivira remains alive in winter and open for tours ($20, weather permitting) of its Zinfandel vineyards, beehives and Biodynamic gardens, where chickens freely roam. Be sure to try the winery’s sumptuous Sauvignon Blanc and small-production Grenache.
Ram’s Gate, 28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-721-8700, ramsgatewinery.com. The entry point into Carneros, Ram’s Gate offers indoor and outdoor fireplaces, perfect settings for enjoying its luxurious wines, from single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to burly Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting flights are offered, by reservation, with a chef’s selection of cheese, charcuterie and other accompaniments, Thursday through Monday. Or go for the “Palate Play” seated food and wine pairing of four wines (90 minutes, $60), available also by reservation.
Robert Biale Vineyards, 4038 Big Ranch Road, Napa, 707-257-7555, biale.com. A producer of elegant single-vineyard-designated Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs, Biale works with a wide range of historic vineyards throughout Napa and Sonoma to source grapes. Enjoy the cozy tasting room while pondering the views of the surrounding vineyards and tasting Biale’s fine wines, including its signature Black Chicken Napa Valley Zinfandel, an ode to bootlegging Prohibition days.
Schramsberg Vineyards, 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, 800-877-3623, schramsberg.com. Among the first in California to specialize in sparkling wine, Schramsberg occupies hallowed, historic ground, home to the oldest hillside vineyards in Napa Valley and some of the first caves dug for the storing and aging wine. Take a tour by appointment, and don’t miss the Mirabelle Brut Rosé and other gorgeous sparklers before moving on to taste the J. Davies Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.
St. Francis Winery & Vineyards, 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, 707-538-9463, stfranciswinery.com. With one of the best food-and-wine pairing experiences in the county, St. Francis is a welcome place to relax and enjoy three distinct culinary adventures, from a seated multicourse food-and- wine pairing presided over by executive chef Bryan Jones ($50, reservations required), to a simpler cheese and charcuterie accompaniment, to a flight of limited-production wines ($30, walk-ins welcome). But the best-kept secret might be the private estate dinners, seven-course prix fixe meals with wine ($148, reservations required via 707-833-0255), offered six days a week by appointment.
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-2020, cask23.com. The winery that shook the world by being the winning Cabernet Sauvignon at the 1976 Paris Tasting, Stag’s Leap has recently unveiled its new FAY Outlook and Visitor Center, overlooking the winery’s FAY and S.L.V. vineyards and in full view of the Stags Leap Palisades. Open daily, the center offers tours and estate collection tastings by reservation. More focused is its Fire and Water Tour and Tasting ($95), a dig into the estate property with discussion of its terroir, accompanied by wines and appetizers.
Three Sticks Wines, 143 W. Spain Street, Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com. Now settled into its new digs, known as The Adobe, the winery has completely renovated Sonoma’s 1842 Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe, one of the very few buildings left from the time of Mexican governorship of California. Open for tastings by appointment, its wines include around single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, a crisp Pinot Blanc and Bordeaux-inspired red blends.
Trefethen Family Vineyards, 1160 Oak Knoll Ave., Napa, 866-895-7696, trefethen.com. Having suffered damage to its historic winery building in the 2014 Napa earthquake, Trefethen powers on, with appointment-only visits to its hallowed spot in the Oak Knoll District. Classic tastings ($25) of estate-grown wines are available, as are Reserve tastings ($35), a chance to try older vintages as well as limited-release wines. The wines include a dry Riesling — a rare find in these parts — as well as Trefethen’s Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Dragon’s Tooth, a blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Archetype, 1429 Main St., St. Helena, 707-968-9200, archetypenapa.com. A spacious, well-designed room and glassed-in porch offer comfortable surroundings for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. The seasonal menu features local, organic salads and tidbits like blinis with burrata. Side dishes are as intriguing as the entrees, including Kennebec fries and curried cauliflower gratin. A wood-fire oven gives a smoky flavor to many of the entrees. $$-$$$ Reviewed 11/2/14
Bruno’s on Fourth, 1226 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-569-8222, brunosonfourth.com. The “American comfort food” that chef Rick Bruno serves up is reliably prepared, nicely priced and tasty. There’s a Sunday brunch, kids eat free Tuesday through Thursday at dinner, and there’s a solid lunch menu. Crispy salads stand out, along with meaty dishes such as braised short ribs and roast pork. The short wine list is well-priced. Reviewed 1/26/14. $$-$$$
Burgers & Vine, 400 First St. E., Sonoma, 707-938-7110, burgersandvine.com. The old Sonoma Mission Creamery building is now an up-to-date bar and grill, featuring burgers, brisket, ribs, salads, sandwiches and more. House-brewed beer joins many craft beers on tap. The long bar is made of rescued old-growth redwood. Big-screen TVs shower you with sports, live bands are booked, and the grub is pretty much pub. Reviewed 3/23/14. $$
Café La Haye, 140 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-935-5994, cafelahaye.com. Here’s a restaurant that has its act together. Chef Jeffrey Lloyd features a different risotto and pasta dish each night, along with the best roast chicken ever. The vegetables on his plates are not given short shrift, and are cooked with intelligence and care. The appetizers are as carefully prepared as the entrees and uniformly delicious. The wine list is a tour of the region’s best wineries. Reviewed 3/30/14. $$$-$$$$
Central Market, 42 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-778-9900, centralmarketpetaluma.com. This is a genuine farm-to-table restaurant, as chef Tony Najiola raises pigs, hens and vegetables for the restaurant on his organic farm not far from town. Those pigs become some of the best charcuterie around, and the vegetables are snapping fresh and respected by the cooks. While the menu is local, the wine list is global in scope. Everything is made from scratch daily, even the breads. Reviewed 7/6/14. $$$
Cucina Paradiso, 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com. The Italian food at Cucina Paradiso has always been good, but since the restaurant’s move to new quarters, it’s great. The style is ristorante rather than trattoria, a little more mid- to northern Italy than southern, with the high quality of the dishes built on the finest ingredients chef Dennis Hernandez can find. Classic veal dishes such as saltimbocca are beautifully prepared and the antipasti are as good as the entrees. Don’t miss the semifreddo for dessert. Reviewed 8/10/14. $$-$$$$
Dry Creek Kitchen, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, charliepalmer.com. This is Healdsburg’s classiest restaurant. The cooking is international-Californian, meaning lots of fresh local ingredients handled with sophistication, such as scallops en croute with a black truffle sauce, and house-smoked Liberty duck breast with a confit of duck leg meat and pork belly joining it on the plate. The pastry chef does excellent work with intricate delicacies. There’s a list of more than 500 wines, all from Sonoma County, and there is no corkage fee if you bring a Sonoma County wine of your own. All this glamour is not inexpensive, so be prepared. Reviewed 6/1/14. $$$$
Flavor Bistro, 96 Old Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa, 707-573-9600, flavorbistro.com. In its friendly, unpretentious way, Flavor Bistro is a shining example of the area’s enviable food scene. House-made pastas and pizzas, and meats and vegetables from local organic farms are expertly prepared, and the wine list is excellent. Breakfast is served most days and lunch and dinner every day. Best of all are the modest prices on most dishes. Flavor is a go-to place for locals and wise visitors. Reviewed 12/8/13. $-$$$$
Flipside Steakhouse & Sports Bar, 138 Calistoga Road, Santa Rosa, 707-539-7700, flipsidesteakhouse.com. Two big dining rooms serve up Certified Angus beef as steaks and prime rib, plus chicken, salmon and lots of crowd-pleasing sides — all priced a la carte, steakhouse-style. There are raw oysters and good crab cakes to start and a delicious slice of chocolate cake with raspberry sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream to finish. The adjoining sports bar is two rooms full of 27 huge, flat-screen TVs. Reviewed 3/9/14. $$-$$$$
Gypsy Café, 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-3825, gypsy-cafe.com. The Gypsy Café occupies the spot where the Pine Cone restaurant operated for decades. Dinner is served only on Fridays, but there’s lots to choose from and the dinners are usually well-attended. Chef Martin Maigaard calls his cooking modern comfort food, and so it is, with pot roast, local salmon in season, free-range fried chicken and vegetarian pasta among the dishes. The wine list is small, but from premium local producers. Reviewed 8/3/14 $$-$$$
Harvest Moon Café, 487 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-933-8160, harvestmooncafesonoma.com. The food at Nick and Jen Demarest’s cafe is innovative and always palate-pleasing — not an easy trick to pull off. The menu changes often, sometimes daily, although the rib-eye steak is a constant. Many ingredients are house-made, including the sausage for the chorizo sauté, and the marshmallow fluff for the s’mores. There’s an alfresco patio out back and an excellent wine list. $$$ Reviewed 10/26/14
Heritage Public House, 1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-540-0395, heritagepublichousesr.com. This is an ideal place to hang out, sample two dozen beers, ales and ciders from California, and enjoy pub grub that’s a cut above average in provenance and quality. The focus is on good ingredients, and the fare includes fish tacos, a beefy burger, salads, sandwiches, fish and chips and nightly specials. Reviewed 10/6/13. $
Hiro’s Japanese Restaurant, 107 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-763-2300, hirosrestaurant.com. Hiro’s is an exceptional Japanese restaurant. It goes beyond just fresh and lovely versions of the usual Japanese fare (although it does have them on the menu) to bring true gourmet Japanese cooking to Sonoma, including hard-to-find seafood specialties. From the arty décor to the swift and smiling service, it’s a real pleasure to dine at Hiro’s. Reviewed 8/25/13. $$-$$$
The Kenwood Restaurant, 9900 Highway 12, Kenwood, 707-833-6326, kenwoodrestaurant.com. The focus is on organic meats and vegetables from local farms used in dishes that give a Sonoma twist to sophisticated American cooking. The result is wonderfully flavored food that’s as good for you as it is delicious. The chef will buy a whole carcass and use it in many different recipes. Its farm-to-table cooking in a beautiful Sonoma Valley setting. Reviewed 3/2/14. $$$$
Kettles Vietnamese Bistro, 1202 W. Steele Lane, Santa Rosa, 707-528-3747, kettlesvietnamesebistro.com. Vietnamese restaurants used to be exotic, but this one shows how comfy the cuisine has become in America. Big portions of pretty good food, Vietnamese with some pan-Asian, and reasonable prices make for a winning formula at Kettles, which attracts a lot of families. The pho noodle soups with meat or seafood are particularly good. Reviewed 2/2/14. $-$$
LaSalette, 452 First St. E., Suite H, Sonoma, 707-938-1927, lasalette-restaurant.com. Chef Manuel Azevedo honors his Portuguese heritage by preparing classic and some innovative dishes in the Portuguese style, which means lots of flavor, spicy sausages, fruits de mer and respect for his Azores heritage. And he does it well. Dishes are perfectly cooked, many in the wood-burning oven. The wine list is loaded with Portuguese treasures and the service is snappy. It’s a real treat to dine there. Reviewed 9/7/14. $$$
Lulu’s Kitchen, 1313 Main St., Napa, 258-1313, 1313main.com. The best feature of Lulu’s Kitchen is its wine list. Offerings are not confined to California and include some of the finest wines of the world by the glass, flights and bottle. The small-plate dishes are carefully conceived and expertly prepared. The decor is sophisticated and chic, the service friendly, and the ambiance relaxing. Reviewed 1/12/14. $$-$$$
Luma, 500 First St., Petaluma, 707-658-1940, lumapetaluma.com. A real find, this unpretentious restaurant has a feel-good vibe, great service and contemporary American cooking. Nightly specials might include braised pork ribs or blackened catfish. The regular menu offers ancho- and porcini-seared filet mignon, chicken picadillo and a daily “vegetarian delight,” a tray of wonderfully prepared seasonal fruits and vegetables. The wine list is global and modestly priced. Reviewed 11/3/13. $$$
Marigold Indian Bistro, 7225 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-329-6965, visit on Facebook. Chef Uddab Timilsina makes Indian cuisine exciting, not just because he’s mastered the art of combining spices in intriguing ways, but also because his dishes are made with top-quality ingredients, which gives them the added appeal of freshness and purity of flavor. Along with the usual Indian dishes, he occasionally ventures into less charted territory. The lamb and apricot combination, for instance, is wonderful. $$. Reviewed 11/9/14
M.Y. China, Graton Resort and Casino, 630 Park Court, Rohnert Park, 707-703-1955, tastemychina.com. This is the second of well-known chef Martin Yan’s innovative Chinese restaurants. The restaurant better recreates the actual cuisines of China than do the chop suey and chow mein parlors found across America. Yan and executive chef Tony Wu insist on absolutely fresh vegetables and high quality in other ingredients. Reviewed 1/19/14. $$-$$$$
The Pullman Kitchen, 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-4300, thepullmankitchensr.com. Executive chef Darren McRonald and chef John Trunk have worked at some of the nation’s finest restaurants, and it shows in the execution of the dishes at their venue in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square district. The menu is full of familiar items such as fish tacos, roast chicken, cheeseburgers, meatballs and so on, but they are all just about perfect versions, including scrumptious desserts. There are unsuspected surprises as well. Reviewed 7/13/14. $$-$$$
Rosso Pizzeria, 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-544-3221, rossopizzeria.com. Rosso calls itself a pizzeria, but it’s a pizzeria-plus. Plusses include antipasti from fried calamari to luscious meatballs and salumi. Salads are cracking fresh. Besides really good, wood-fire pizza, there’s piadini, an Italian flatbread topped with veggies or sweet fruits. Full plates of fried chicken and Venetian-style risotto are expertly done. The wine list is eclectic, and soccer reigns on the TV. Reviewed 6/22/14. $$-$$$
Santé at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-939-2415, fairmont.com/sonoma. The cuisine at this classic restaurant sets the standard for high-quality spa food anywhere in the world. The ingredients are mostly locally sourced and treated with respect so that the basic flavors shine. The chefs use techniques and carefully measured herbs and condiments to glorify the ingredients. Service is impeccable. Luxury doesn’t come cheap, but indulge yourself here. Reviewed 6/16/13. $$$$
Scopa, 109-A Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-433-5282, scopahealdsburg.com. This red-hot restaurant has a strong influence of southern Italy and food that’s surpassingly delicious. Nonna’s Tomato-Braised Chicken with polenta keeps fans coming back. Chef Ari Rosen’s Tomasso’s Sugo Calabrese is a perfect plate of meat-sauced spaghettini. But this is not Italian-American cooking — it’s full-boat Italian. A fine list of Italian wines lets you pair this food with something from the old country. Reviewed 3/16/14. $$-$$$
Seared, 170 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-762-5997, petalumaseared.com. It’s mostly a steak house, but the menu is more varied than that, with lots of seafood and a range of good appetizers. The beef tends to be the Japanese breeds, often aged and sometimes grass-fed. The vegetables are handled with care. Chef Joe O’Donnell displays his skill by adding complexity to the food, creating a whirlwind of flavors. The restaurant knocks 25 percent off wine prices on Thursdays. Reviewed 4/6/14. $$-$$$$
Stark’s Steak & Seafood, 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com. Happy hour is a rip-roaring, after-work party most days, but in the quiet confines of the back dining room, the kitchen serves up the county’s best steaks — prime pieces of beef dry-aged for four weeks until they are bovine perfection. Everything is a la carte, so dining here is a pricey experience, but it’s worth it, for you’ll not find better beef and there are excellent seafood dishes. No corkage fee on your first two bottles of wine helps. The sides are hit or miss, but delicious when they hit, such as the tamarind barbecued prawns. Reviewed 2/9/14. $$$$
Swiss Hotel, 18 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-2884, swisshotelsonoma.com. Construction on the Swiss Hotel’s building was completed in 1840, but the scene here is up to date, especially at the tables bordering the Spain Street sidewalk. The food is Italian-American with straight American comfort food mixed into the menu. It’s not fancy, but it’s good. The bar hasn’t changed much since it was built more than 100 years ago. There’s a lovely patio for dining out back. Reviewed 6/8/14. $$-$$$$
Twisted 2, 29-F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-789-9914, twisted2.net. This sweet little place from Dick and Julie Warner serves a prix fixe menu of her masterful kitchen creations with his very educated choices of wines to go with them. There’s an emphasis on very fresh Hawaiian fish such as ono and onaga. The dishes are composed with restraint, allowing the quality of the ingredients to shine. Just hope the soup of the day is Julie’s mole pozole, as rich as a stew, with pulled pork and hominy. The Meyer lemon pudding for dessert is luscious. Reviewed 12/22/13.
Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro, 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-6462, walterhanselbistro.com. The refurbished room serves as a wine bar for Walter Hansel Winery and a showcase for chef Philippe Colasse’s French cooking. He springs surprises, too, like Peruvian causa and seafood cebiche appetizers. But it’s the French classics that really sing — sous vide chicken with mousseline sauce, perfect Liberty duck rillettes, potato gratin Savoyard, sea bass in beurre blanc, and much more. Reviewed 2/23/14. $$$$
