Sonoma’s Hip Chick Farms Named Most Innovative Women in Food

Jen and Sarafina, Hip Chick Farms. (Photo: Whole Foods Market)
Jen and Sarafina, Hip Chick Farms. (Photo: Whole Foods Market)

Hip Chick Farms Jen Johnson and Serafina Palandech have been named one of Food + Wine Magazine’s Most Innovative Women in Food. The local couple founded the frozen foods company several years ago in Sebastopol, winning acclaim for their sustainable, locally-sourced chicken wings, meatballs and chicken nuggets. Congrats to our local gals!

hipchickfarms

Chicken fingers and Chez Panisse aren’t usually associated with one another. But Palandech and Johnson (far left), the couple behind Hip Chick Farms, are bringing a sustainable ethic to the world of frozen chicken dinners. Johnson, a former Chez Panisse chef, develops the recipes, which include spicy wings, meatballs and nuggets, using ethically raised birds from a local Sonoma farm. “Frozen foods don’t tend to be superhot items in the marketplace, but we’re a premium product,” says Palandech. The chef-driven, sustainably sourced recipes are especially appealing at a moment when consumers and retailers alike are paying more attention to the quality of their food. In early 2015, Hip Chick was in 300 stores; by the end of the year, it will be in 1,200.

La Salette Owner Opening New Restaurant in Sonoma

Manuel Azevedo of La Salette (Press Democrat file)
Sheana Davis of Epicurean Connection in Sonoma has sold her business to La Salette Owner Manuel Azevedo.
Sheana Davis of Epicurean Connection in Sonoma has sold her business to La Salette Owner Manuel Azevedo.


LaSalette’s Manuel Azevedo
has purchased Sonoma’s Epicurean Connection (122 W Napa St., Sonoma), with plans to open a tapas restaurant and wine bar in downtown the space in early 2016.

Dubbed Tasca Tasca Tapas Restaurant and Wine Bar, the forthcoming eatery is the third for Azevedo, who also owns Sonoma’s LaSalette and Cafe Lucia in Healdsburg. Both have won numerous accolades for Azevedo’s “Cozinha Nova Portuguesa” or “new Portuguese cuisine”.

Manuel Azevedo of La Salette (Press Democrat file)
Manuel Azevedo of La Salette (Press Democrat file)

Tasca Tasca’s menu will reflect Azevedo’s focus on Portuguese cooking, small plate style, including: Sonoma Goat Cheese with Apricot Jelly; Portuguese Mac & Cheese; Herb & Garlic Marinated Olives; Linguiça-Sausage; Raw Oysters with Lemon Fennel Mignonette; House-Smoked California Sturgeon; Polvo – Octopus with “villain’s” sauce; Azoriana Sliders – Pork & São Jorge Cheese; Goat Stew with Fingerling Potatoes; Pork Belly with Madiera Glaze; Foie Gras Terrine, as well as a many other authentic and seasonal tapas including a variety of salads, soups and sweets. A curated wine list focuses on Portuguese wines and an extensive Port and Madeira selection.

Sheana Davis, whose Epicurean Connection opened on the Sonoma Square in 2010, has no plans to hang up her apron anytime soon. The cheesemaker, caterer and educator will be expanding her cheesemaking operations with new locations for her Delice de la Vallee and Creme de Fromage cheeses (found at swank spots like The French Laundry). She also plans to continue to cater and host a variety of classes throughout the region, and in NYC and New Orleans.

Davis will continue to run her Epicurean Connection shop through September, so stop by and wish her well. 

BiteClub’s Guide to the National Heirloom Expo 2015

Tacos at Backyard Restaurant in Forestville.
Tacos at Backyard Restaurant in Forestville.

There are at least a million reasons to attend the National Heirloom Expo (Sept. 8-10, 2015) at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. I mean, if you care about the food you eat, the planet you live on, and, well, having some tasty fun. Here’s a look (BiteClub style) at what I’m loving at the three-day event. Plenty more info (including incredible speakers on topics from GMO’s to Biodynamic Cannabis Growing) online. Also, check out this article from 2014 that goes into a little further detail about why the Expo matters.

Heirloom Expo 2015 Real Cool Treats
“Heirloom Expo 2015 Real Cool Treats

Because it’s gonna be really freaking hot all three days of the Heirloom Expo, Real Cool Treats truck.


 

Backyard Restaurant
Backyard Restaurant

Pork tacos from Backyard.


 

Chalk Art Santa Rosa Heirloom Expo 2015
Chalk Art Santa Rosa Heirloom Expo 2015

You can’t resist a little ephemeral art, especially in 3D, with pigs.


 

pizza
pizza_truck

Sebastopol’s Red Horse Pizza always brings it. And they have The Kefiry’s Hibiscus water kefir on tap.


 

Soda Rock Tomatoes at The National Heirloom Expo 2015
Soda Rock Tomatoes at The National Heirloom Expo 2015

Soda Rock Tomatoes. #summer


 

Oyster Mushroom Ceviche from Chalk Hill Cookery, $10 at National Heirloom Expo
Oyster Mushroom Ceviche from Chalk Hill Cookery, $10 at National Heirloom Expo

Oyster Mushroom “ceviche” from Chalk Hill Cookery:  Vegan deliciousness for $10. And so pretty!


 

bees

Bees inside a donkey. For whatever reason…fascinating


 

Portobella Mushroom Burgers
Portobella Mushroom Burgers

These beautiful portobella mushroom burgers.


 

Comet Corn!
Comet Corn!

cometcorn

The Comet Corn Lady and Coconut Curry Popcorn with fresh butter. Wheeeeeee! We love Comet Corn.


 

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cinnamon
DIY Renaissance sachets and “thieves” to ward off the plague.


 

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tower

This.


 

Petaluma Pie
Petaluma Pie

Dessert before dinner: Raspberry Rhubarb Lavender Pie from Petaluma Pie. With a side of Petaluma Pete.


forktruck
Sarah Piccolo at Fork and her always awesome burgers.

New Owners for Caffe Portofino

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The former Caffe Portofino in downtown Santa Rosa may soon get a new lease on life.

After more than two years of gathering dust, restaurateur Sonu Chandi and with his brothers Joti Chandi and Sunny Chandi have taken over the space, planning a modern American bistro called Craft 535 Kitchen + Bar. Chandi is co-owner of nearby Stout Brother’s Pub and two Mountain Mike’s Pizza restaurants in Sonoma County.

“If everything goes well with the city, we hope to open in mid-November,” he said.

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But there’s plenty of work to be done on the interior, which Chandi said hasn’t been updated in decades. That means a significant investment, he said, in refurbishing the outdated kitchen and becoming compliant with stringent accessibility requirements — which can run hundreds of thousands of dollars depending on the age of the building.

Chandi, isn’t daunted, however. “We still need more great restaurants in downtown Santa Rosa. We need more of a draw for people to come here to downtown,” he said.

As for whether Chandi’s new restaurant will live up to the legendary happy hour scene at Portofino is yet to be seen. “We aren’t going to be Portofino, but we’ll have a great happy hour for folks coming in after work or visiting Sonoma County,” he said.

The hiring of an executive chef is still in the works, but Chandi hopes to include plenty of local produce, meat, wines and craft cocktails.

Caffe Portofino,which opened in 1987, closed in February 2013 after the death of owner Bob Musante.

Starbucks Evenings Coming to Santa Rosa

starbucks
Ever wished you could get a glass of wine and some truffle popcorn at Starbucks at night?
Personally, I can’t say that I’m especially jazzed about anything other than getting a post-6p.m. caffeine fix, but Starbucks’ new “Evenings” has quietly started up in a few markets, including Northern California. Hint: That means us.

Starting Sept. 25 (we hear), the Coddingtown Starbucks will serve beer, wine and a small plate selection that includes (according to their sample menu) things like spinach artichoke dip with pita chips, truffle mac and cheese, flatbreads, a cheese plate, bacon-wrapped dates and truffle popcorn, along with a selection of wines (Ferrari-Carano chardonnay is on the list) along with various craft beers.

In the midst of so much locally made charcuterie, cheese, bread and beer, it seems pretty beside the point to be going to Starbucks for your fix. Not to mention the whole Boulange fiasco (bring my dang scones back). But then again, Starbucks is like an old friend — a little boring, but approachable and non-judgmental. Especially when you get that venti Frap with double caramel and whip. We get it.

Here’s a note from Starbucks on their new concept:

We’ve always been your neighborhood morning stop—a place to help you start your day. Now we’re bringing a little delight to your evenings too.

Our Starbucks Evenings menu features a thoughtful selection of wine and craft beer alongside the signature coffee and tea beverages you know and love. Enjoy one of our savory small plates – whether it’s our creamy Truffle Mac & Cheese or a delicious flatbread.

So take a moment to unwind, meet up with friends and enjoy a glass of wine and a delicious little something—with us.

Check out the “sample menu”.

Best Happy Hours in Sonoma County

Happy Hour at Brew happens twice daily. Photo, Heather Irwin.
Happy Hour at Brew happens twice daily. Photo, Heather Irwin.
Happy Hour at Brew happens twice daily. Photo, Heather Irwin.


Happy hour has gone legit — even upscale — in Sonoma County with craft cocktails, gourmet small bites and crowds looking to mingle and mix rather than simply get loaded on PBR and mozzarella sticks.

Once the sole refuge of sports bars and low-brow eateries, top shelf restaurants are now drawing crowds with deep discounts on many of their regular menu items (usually in petite form) from the hours of 3-6p.m. with hopes that you’ll stick around for dinner, or at least some top shelf booze.

And it seems to be working.

Though there are hundreds of great happy hours from Cloverdale to Petaluma, not all are created equal. Here are some favorites with a combination of great food, drinks and crowds that will make your post-work hours happier — at least for an hour or so.

Haute Happy Hours: Upscale restaurants where you’ll find well-heeled movers and shakers enjoying a martini or three.

Stark’s Steak and Seafood
There’s no denying that Stark’s is the Grand Pubah when it comes to Santa Rosa’s happy hour scene. Packed to the gills most nights, It’s the perfect storm of top-notch bites well under $5, well crafted drinks and a clubby, steakhouse atmosphere. Rather than trotting out nuked chicken strips and Bud lights, they roll out inspired tapas and sides from their steakhouse menu — tuna tartar taco ($1.75), prime rib banh mi, $5; potato skin fondue, sweet chili chicken wings and truffle fries for $3.95 and a quarter-pound burger with caramelized onions and truffle aioli for a thrifty $5. Plus a $2.50 Beefeater martini, Lost Coast Blonde Ale ($2.75) selected wines,  $5 margaritas on Monday and Tuesday, along with several other old school cocktails for $5 and $6. Monday through Saturday 3-6pm. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 546-5100.

The Starks’ other restaurants also feature some impressive happy hours, including Bravas Bar de Tapas’ “Locals’ 420 Hour” with gin and tonics, sangria, beer, goat cheese tostadas, duck meatball bocadillos, Spanish flatbread and cider braised chorizo and shishito peppers all for the mind-bending price of (you guessed it), $4.20. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 433-7700.

Front Room at John Ash & Co.
Sink into a leather seat and nibble on tasty small plates while kicking back well-crafted cocktails. Here, you can steer clear of the bro-crowd, rubbing elbows with the hotel’s chic clientele, politicos and pinstriped professionals. Wednesdays’s “Crush the Rush” includes complimentary appetizers from 5:30-6:30pm along with $2 off all cocktails, $4 wine/beer/weekly cocktail. On Saturday it’s Pizza and Pinot from 6-9p.m. with $10 pizzas and a featured $10 pinot of the month. Sunday you can build your own burger and fries for $10. Front Room Happy Hour; 4-6p.m. Monday, Tuesday and Thursday; 5:30 to 6:30p.m. Wednesday and from 3-6pm Friday through Sunday. 4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 527-7687.

Central Market
An amazing deal from one of Sonoma County’s best chefs, Tony Najiola. But it’s literally an hour, so you can’t dawdle. And chances are you’ll want to stay for dinner. $1 oysters, $5 wines, $3 beers and free pizza at bar Monday through Thursday from 5-6p.m., 42 Petaluma Blvd., Petaluma, 778-9900.

Barndiva Studio Bar
We won’t lie, this isn’t a cheapo happy hour. This is a Wine Country experience. But sipping cocktails and bistro bites inside this eclectic gallery of performance and visual art is a must-do in Healdsburg. Chef Ryan Fancher’s restaurant vision has been adapted to a more casual bistro model with small plates of charcuterie and other apps, Barndiva has opened up the beautifully curated space to sip craft cocktails and be one of the beautiful people. Open from 3p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, 237 Center St., Healdsburg.

Hipsters and the Tinder Tribe: Young professionals on the prowl scooter, Uber and bicycle to these trendy spots.

Oso
Mole braised short rib tacos, Korean buffalo wings and Sangria at one of Sonoma’s hippest new eateries. Plus, we hear they’ve finally got some outdoor patio space. Happy hour Monday through Thursday from 5-6:30p.m.,. 9 East Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 931-6926.

Chalkboard
Chef Shane McAnelly uses his happy hour menu to playfully explore cuisines and dishes that might not make it to his regular menu. Currently he’s stoked on Fillipino cuisine and his 4:30-6:30p.m. menu includes rock shrimp and avocado lumpia, chicken adobo, tamarind braised pork ($6). The theme extends to inspired drinks like Paquiao Plum Punch (with Batavia Arrack, an historic sugar-based spirit), Singapore Sling, plus beer and wine. They’ll be visiting Spain, next, so stay tuned. 29 North St., Healdsburg, 473-8030.

Spoonbar
Sit and watch the world—or at least Healdsburg—go by at this open-air eatery inside the H2Hotel. Miyagi oysters, fermented chili glazed chicken wings, grilled chorizo skewers ($5), crafty cocktails like the Blind Tigers (St. George Absinthe, Benedictine, Aperol, lemon, yuzu, hibiscus, $6), wines ($6) and Death & Taxes, Proving Ground IPA ($4). Monday through Thursday, 5-6p.m.,  219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-7222.

Brew
We love the laid back, inclusive vibe of this combo coffeehouse and pub. Sip on pour-overs and cold-brewed coffee from SF’s Ritual Roasters (the owner are coffee fanatics), local microbrews and ciders that change frequently, along with wine and tea. Their TWO happy hours are from 4-6p.m. and 8-10p.m. daily with $1 off beer and cider on tap (and also wine by the glass). 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa,

Epicurean Connection
Sheana Davis’ cozy gourmet shop and bistro has one of the chillest happy hours we know of, with beer or wine, local cheese and crostini and chef-made tapenade for $10. 3-6p.m. Tuesday through Friday.  122 W. Napa St, Sonoma, 935-7960.

The Villa
This popular Happy Hour on the Hill is a mix of old-timers and youngsters who both appreciate a bargain. And a shrimp cocktail. There’s nothing fancy here, but the view is spectacular, and you can get a Bud Light, fried calamari and mozzarella sticks or a pizza for a song. From 3:30-6p.m. grab some retro-cool eats including the aforementioned shrimp cocktail, spaghetti and meatball, fried zucchini and even a straight up hot dog start at $2 and top out at $5. Bud, Coors, PBR and wine are $2. 3901 Montgomery Dr., Santa Rosa, 528-7755.

BroHour: Favorites of the beer and spirits crowd for whom happy hour is just a warm-up

Seared
Folks in Petaluma give a hefty thumbs up to this relative newcomer downtown. They’ve doubled their happy hour on Friday and Saturday (4-6p.m. and 9-10p.m.). The menu is extensive, with filet mignon skewers, pork belly banh mi, salt and pepper calamari, citrus cured salmon, mac and cheese, tacos and the ultimate beer food, onion dip and chips. All are $6 and under. Drinks include the George Clooney margarita, whisky punch, rye martini, wine and beer from $2.50 to $7.

La Rosa Tequileria
Welcome to Sonoma County’s favorite margaritaville. Tequila-drinks and approachable Mexican fare make this an easy choice for kicking back with a few friends from 4-6p.m. daily. House margaritas and shots, $5; well cocktails and microbrews ($4). Cheese nachos, quesadillas, hot dogs, ahi tostada and other mini bites for $3-$5. 500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 523-3663.

Belly Left Coast Kitchen
When isn’t it happy hour at this downtown Santa Rosa restaurant? They’ve got food and drink specials from 3-6p.m. Monday through Friday, with your best bet being Taco Tuesday from 2p.m to close with solid tacos and an impressive collection of craft brews. The rock star vibe and beer-centric drink list makes for plenty of fist-bumping fun. 523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, (707) 526-5757.

Maya Restaurant
Not just nachos, but “Really Good Nachos”, along with tacos, sliders and margaritas from 4-6p.m. Monday through Friday. 101 E. Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 935-3500.

Did we miss one of your favorites?

Taste of Sonoma 2015: An inside guide

KP0831_POSE_PICS_662147
Wine Country Weekend
(Sept. 4-6, 2015) is Sonoma County’s biggest harvest party of the year, and everyone’s invited. The three-day extravaganza includes dozens of winery parties, Sunday’s big dollar wine auction, a starlight dinner at Coppola Winery, and best of all, the MacMurray Ranch smorgasbord of food and wine, Taste of Sonoma 2015. With some 200 wineries and restaurants pouring and serving their finest, even longtime attendees tend to look like Golden Ticket winners walking into a Willy Wonka factory of bubbly, wine, foie gras and pork belly.

Here’s what you gotta know before you go, because we don’t want you ending making drunken snow angels on the lawn of actor Fred MacMurray’s family ranch. Trust us, it happens.

CTJ0830_TASTESONOMA3_703745
Go Early:
This is one event you don’t want to show up late to. Parking and traffic get hairy, it gets really hot, and you’ll be sweating it out in longer lines for that little one-ounce pour and nibble. Best bet: Hit as many restaurant stations as possible (fuel and a solid base for all that wine) and the handful of wineries you want to spend time chatting with early on. Enjoy the afternoon at a slower pace, making sure to hydrate like crazy.

The Restaurants: Get up close and personal with more than 60 Wine Country chefs as they serve nibbles and participate in cooking demos. This isn’t a Happy Hour buffet, so be mindful of how much you take (we see you stuffing food into your purse) and skip over food that doesn’t interest you. Newcomers this year: Applewood Inn, Patisserie Angelica, Ramen Gaijin, SubZero Ice Cream, Pullman Kitchen, Mark and Terri Stark’s Stark Reality Restaurants,Vignette Pizzeria and Woodfour Brewing.

KP0831_RED_HAT_662152
Get Schooled:
Cooking demos from top toques happen from noon to 3:30 p.m., including the baking gurus of Moustache Baked Goods, Boon Eat + Drink’s Crista Luedtke, mac ’n cheese lollipops with Feast Catering’s Jesse McQuarrie, Paella with Jose Castaneda and Chef Mark Stark, chef/owner of Bravas, Willie’s Wine Bar and Stark’s Steakhouse (to name a few).

The Wine: There are three main tents, divided up by appellations. Again, this isn’t happy hour, so sip, don’t guzzle (unless its water). Aside from that, make sure to keep your glass handy and don’t be afraid to spit.

Bubble It Up: The Gloria Ferrer Bubble Lounge always has great food and lots of sparkling. It also gets filled up fast, so don’t dawdle in making your way.

Sonoma-Wine-Country-Weekend-2014-m.-woolsey-126-1024x683
Don’t Forget the Marketplace:
I like to hit the various vendors from the Sonoma County Marketplace later in the afternoon, as folks swarm the wine tents. Plus, its the only place to get beer (Bear Republic, Moonlight, Lagunitas, St. Florian’s, Third St. Aleworks, Woodfour), coffee, cheese and other tasty treats that many folks miss altogether.

Pace Yourself: If you hit it hard the first day, the rest of the weekend is a giant hangover. Do what the pros do, and pace yourself — there’s plenty to eat and drink. If you’re feeling buzzed, take a break. If you’re stuffed, sit in the shade for a bit.

Be comfy: Biggest rookie mistake at Saturday’s Taste of Sonoma? Heels. Chances are you’ll be doing plenty of walking on uneven surfaces (grass, rocks, bricks, etc) and twisting your ankle is a bummer. Wear platforms or, even better, flats. Also, wear something comfy and cool with a sweater or jacket for the evening. And a hat. You’ve got to have a hat for the late-summer Sonoma sun.

061_WCW.Coppola.mm_Bring a pen and business cards: You never know who you’ll meet. From ranchers and chefs to high-end winemakers and Sonoma celebrities, its good to have a way to reconnect.

More details online at sonomawinecountryweekend.com.

Win Taste of Sonoma Tickets 2015

THIS CONTEST IS OVER. CONGRATS TO CAROL. Your local food knowledge rivals mine.

Sonoma-Wine-Country-Weekend-2014-m.-woolsey-62-683x1024

Want to eat and drink your way through the Appellations of Sonoma County? We thought so.

BiteClub is giving away two tickets to Taste of Sonoma, part of the 2015 Wine Country Weekend extravaganza.

One winner will get the golden tickets to hobnob with the food and wine elite, sample small bites from dozens of our best restaurants, sip from hundreds of bottles of primo local wine (along with beer and cider), watch food demonstrations, wander around MacMurray Ranch and smile in wonderment at this place we call home.

Here’s what you have to do to enter: I want to know the absolute must try dishes of Wine Country. That can be anything from the Fig Salad at The Girl and the Fig, or chicken livers at Ralph’s, to oysters on the coast and fresh peaches from Dry Creek Peach.

Add your suggestion to the comments below. I’ll choose my favorite suggestion, which will be featured in an upcoming article on Wine Country eats, and you’ll get two tickets for Saturday’s event. Entries submitted by email or on my Facebook page will not be considered. You have to submit a comment.

Want to know how to survive the event? Click here for more details on Taste of Sonoma.

The Fine Print:
1. YOU MUST BE 21 TO ENTER. This is a 21+ event, so your guest must be of age as well.
2. I’ll need a viable email address to let you know if you’ve won.
3. Winner will be chosen at 5pm, Thursday, Sept. 3 and notified. Winners must respond by 1pm on Friday, or forfeit their tickets.
4. See full rules here.

McDonald’s Totally Fails with response to McWhopper Proposal from Burger King

The proposed McWhopper

No one likes a party pooper, especially a self-righteous one. We’re talking to you, Steve Easterbrook, CEO of McDonalds.

The proposed McWhopper
The proposed McWhopper

In the spirit of peace (and really good PR), Burger King recently launched a very public an effort to bring the two fast food chains together for World Peace Day on Sept. 21.

The one-day truce involved collaborating on a Whopper/Big Mac mashup called the McWhopper, sold only at a special pop-up restaurant in Atlanta (a diplomatic half-way point between McDonald’s Illinois headquarters and BK’s Florida headquarter).

Patrons would pay for the hybrid burger by “declaring their own truces” on paper tray mats. Adorbs.

Win-win, right?

But in a PR flub of #epicfail proportions, Easterbrook cooly dismissed on the tongue-in-cheek idea on the McDonald’s Facebook page.

McDonald’s Totally Fails with response to McWhopper Proposal from Burger King

Wait, what?

That was one of the most tone-deaf responses we’ve ever heard. Don’t you have people to stop you from saying stupid stuff like that? Hint: The internet now hates you (and no, “likes” don’t mean people like your response).

Here’s where McDonald’s missed a huge opportunity (and BK won)–because exactly how many of us actually knew that there was such a thing as World Peace Day? We do now. And how many of us are planning to do anything meaningful to celebrate it? (Bumperstickers don’t count, nor do Facebook “likes” of someone else’s heartfelt action). 

beef
Burger King got that. Their PR effort (and trust us, there were several agencies involved, so it’s not all unicorns and rainbows) focused on making a very serious movement approachable in a fun and doable way.

The McWhopper website described the stunt as an attempt “to get the world talking about Peace Day.”

Mission accomplished. And PS, I now really like the BK brand a lot more.

Sorry, Mr. CEO who makes a $1.1 million salary annually, but for the average person, eating a burger and contemplating peace for a few minutes with their friends and family is “meaningful” and just might “make a difference”. It’s an actionable, feel-good step that we’ll talk about and enjoy. I know that a lot of my “teachable moments” with my kids happen at the table, organically, no matter what we’re eating.

So we say, next time, think small, Steve. And don’t McChicken out, because a McWhopper sounds pretty good, especially with a side of Peace.

Hazel Restaurant | Occidental

Gorganzola pizza Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Gorganzola pizza Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Gorganzola pizza Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Gorganzola pizza Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.

An 800-degree wood-fired oven isn’t for the faint of heart. Burning embers, live fire and blistering surfaces can be a logistical challenge, especially in a busy restaurant where pizzas, braised octopus and short ribs commingle inside not one, but two searingly hot wood-fueled ovens.

But they’re also the muscle of Jim and Michele Wimborough’s new Occidental restaurant, Hazel. Left by the previous owners of long-time French restaurant, Bistro des Copains, the ovens are being pressed into service for everything from house made sourdough loaves to whole braised branzino, perfectly-cooked pizzas, and every so often, pastry chef Michele’s chocolate chip cookies.

Schnitzel at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Schnitzel at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.

Far from the buzz of San Francisco, Berkeley and east Oakland, where the chef-couple worked at high turnover urban restaurants like Zut! Tavern, SF’s Boulevard, upscale Greek restaurant, Kokkari, and Zuni Kitchen, the Wimboroughs are settling into the country life in West County. With their hearts set on raising their fourth-grade son in the quieter reaches of Sonoma County, the couple fell in love with Occidental on a birthday trip for Jim. When the owners of the beloved Occidental eatery Bistro des Copains announced their retirement, the couple pounced on the spot.

Scallops at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Heather Irwin.
Scallops at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Heather Irwin.

“We just feel grateful that we get to live here, get to be part of this community,” said Michele.

After several months of renovation, Hazel restaurant opened in July to plenty of local fanfare — one of only a handful of eateries between Sebastopol and the North Coast. Already, local reviewers on Yelp are calling it “a new West County classic.”

Short Ribs with Polenta at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Short Ribs with Polenta at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.

The Food: A creative mix of rustic Mediterranean and California cuisines, Tzatziki and grilled eggplant spread with pita olives and feta ($11) are menu-fellows to citrus-cured scallops with grapes, radish, lime and Calabrian chili ($9). And it works perfectly, tied together by hyperlocal ingredients and bold Mediterranean flavors.

“We want to keep it really simple,” said Jim. “Something everyone can understand and enjoy,” he added, saying that dishes like the sweet and savory eggplant dip that’s a simpler cousin to baba ganoush with smoky eggplant and the addition (in this version) of raisins are inspired by his time at Kokkari. For the tzatziki, a creamy cucumber dip, Jim uses Kefir cheese from Greece, giving it an almost sour cream-like bump.

 Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.

You’ll find that many of the dishes featured on the menu are best-sellers from their past restaurants while, as Jim said, they feel out the locals to see what resonates. “People eat a lot more meat here than in Berkeley,” he said. “I thought I would be making a lot more vegetarian dishes, but everyone and their mom orders the ribeye ($29),” said Jim. Surprisingly, he added, whole Branzino (head, bones and all, $26) is also popular. “It’s a really cool dish that shows off what we can do with our oven,” he said.

Pita with eggplant at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Pita with eggplant at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.

More must-try dishes:

Polenta with anything: After a family field trip to their neighbors at Valley Ford Cheese, the Wimborough fell in love with their Fontina-style Highway One, especially when a batch was a bit “funkier” that the usual aged cheese. “It adds to much flavor,” he said. We say: Cornmeal is almost an afterthought to this cheese and butter-laden side that will make you swoon. Piled with braised short ribs ($25), its almost too good to be legal, with plenty to share with your dining partner, I mean, if you’re generous like that.

Roasted Octopus ($11): Braised in red wine and rosemary, then seared, its tender and flavorful with white beans, grapefruit, orange, fennel and olives.

Roasted octopus at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Roasted octopus at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.

Mushroom Pizza ($14): A newcomer to the menu, roasted crimini mushrooms are blended into a sauce, with maitakes, Brie and truffle oil. Thicker than Neopolitan-style pizza, the fermented dough has plenty of crisp without the burnt taste. Valley Ford Gorgonzola with caramelized onions, walnuts and fig balsamic ($13) could benefit from some prosciutto, but maybe that’s just us.

Pork Schnitzel ($24): A forearm-sized schnitzel, of pounded pork that’s breaded, fried and served atop smashed potatoes with creme fraiche and bacon braised cabbage. Grab n Anderson Valley Boont Amber ($5) and you’ll wonder where the oompa band is hiding.

Branzino at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Hazel Restaurant
Branzino at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Hazel Restaurant

Roasted Bronzino ($26): The couple get this white-fleshed fish prized from the Mediterranean daily. A simple roast, with potatoes, leeks, tomatoes and white wine keep this dish really effortless.

Sourdough Bread Pudding ($8): Desserts, breads and pastries are also made in house by Jim’s wife, Michele. If it’s Friday, it’s Pie Day, so grab whatever she’s cooked up. We loved the sourdough bread budding with Bourbon caramel, chocolate, bananas and whipped cream, made with leftover sourdough she’s baked in the back oven. Most popular? The Hazel Sundae with salted caramel, hot fudge, whipped cream, candied almonds and Amarena cherries, ($8)

Pot de Creme at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Heather Irwin.
Pot de Creme at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Heather Irwin.

If you go: Free corkage on Thursday nights if you bring a local bottle. The restaurant will begin serving brunch within a few weeks (call first), with Jim’s Great Grandma Hazel’s cinnamon rolls (she’s the restaurant’s inspiration and namesake). Located within stumbling distance of the popular bike route along Occidental Road, it will no doubt become a favorite morning ride refueling spot.

Oh, and remain calm if you hear the air raid siren wailing across the street. It’s just the local fire alert system, which locals are used to (but no doubt will have you looking like a deer in headlights). You know, unless it’s coming from the kitchen. Thing is, after eating at Hazel, we’re pretty confident the Wimboroughs have their live fires well under control.

Corn Pizza at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Hazel Restaurant
Corn Pizza at Hazel Restaurant. Photo: Hazel Restaurant

Hazel Restaurant: Open daily from 5p.m. to 10p.m.; 3782 Bohemian Hwy, Occidental, (707) 874-6003, restauranthazel.com. Reservations recommended.

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