Peek Inside the Renovated Lodge at Sonoma

By Dana Rebmann

The sky’s the limit when it comes to hotel renovations these days. Wine Country resorts spare no expense as they work with award-winning architects and designers from around the world to revamp their properties. While the results are impressive, ubiquitous design trends can sometimes make you lose your sense of place. You’ll see the same color schemes and the same pieces of furniture whether you’re in Sonoma or Singapore.

So it is particularly refreshing when a hotel receives a facelift without losing touch with the surrounding area and its history. As The Lodge at Sonoma emerges from a $17 million renovation, it’s clear where the inspiration came from — its own backyard.

Conceptualized by Sonoma interior designer Mark Wilson and his business partner Yoko Ishihara, the resort’s redesign is visible already from the outside. The facade has been repainted in a particular shade of white to match the exterior of Mission San Francisco Solano, the last California mission, which is located just a mile north of the property on the historic Sonoma Plaza.

Inside the redesigned lobby, you’ll find another tribute to the neighborhood: a shimmering tapestry stretching the length of one wall depicts the Franciscan mission and its neighboring buildings in the 1800s. Above the fireplace, a photo collection includes a portrait of General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, the founder of the town of Sonoma, together with his wife, Francisca Benicia Carrillo.

“Our goal is to tie the property to Sonoma and the community,” said Xavier Bon, Director of Sales & Marketing at The Lodge at Sonoma. “It’s a celebration of Sonoma.”

A picture of General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, the founder of Sonoma, hangs above the lobby fireplace at The Lodge at Sonoma. (Courtesy of The Lodge at Sonoma)
A picture of General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, the founder of Sonoma, hangs above the lobby fireplace at The Lodge at Sonoma. (Courtesy of The Lodge at Sonoma)

With a nod to Sonoma’s history, the property has been upgraded with contemporary elements. All 182 guest rooms, suites and cottages have been modernized and some of the cottages and suites now boast private patio areas with outdoor fireplaces and soaking tubs.

With more reasons to linger in their rooms, guests will still want to explore the lodge’s expansive outdoor spaces.

The pool area, which always draws a crowd, is lined with comfy loungers and cabanas. On select days, a horse trailer-turned-poolside bar — High Horse Bar — slakes the thirst of sunbathers and serves up nachos, burgers and bacon-wrapped hot dogs. A few feet from the pool deck, a few well-placed hammocks on a stretch of grass offer the perfect spot for a post-wine tasting snooze. In a hidden corner of the property, you’ll find grapevines, wine barrel cornhole games, shaded cushy seating and a 400-year-old oak tree equipped with a wooden swing.

The Lodge at Sonoma is also home to celebrity chef Michael Mina’s first wine country restaurant, Wit & Wisdom. The restaurant, whose name pays homage to Jack London (the author lived in nearby Glen Ellen), serves flavorful inventive dishes. The savory “Pop-Tart” is a favorite: Braised short rib, horseradish cream and black pepper meld together with the tasty assistance of a crispy rectangle of puff pastry. It pairs particularly well with the roasted heirloom carrots. The dinner menu also includes wood-fired pizzas, handmade pastas, seafood dishes and a burger served with potato wedges fried in duck fat.

In addition to a wine list that’s 20-plus pages long, Wit & Wisdom boasts a standout cocktail program. Short of eating dessert first, do what you can to save room for The Chocolate Bar with Caramelia milk chocolate and peanut butter crumble. You can thank us later.

The Lodge at Sonoma, 1325 Broadway at Leveroni & Napa Roads, Sonoma, 707-935-6600, thelodgeatsonoma.com. Rates start at $299 a night, plus a daily $45 resort fee.

New Healdsburg Restaurant Opens as Mateo’s Cocina Latina Closes

By Heather Irwin
Conchinita Pibil, by Mateo Granados, at Mateo’s Cocina Latina in Healdsburg, served with a rhubarb inspired margarita. The dish features slow-roasted pork marinated in annatto seed with homemade tortilla and cinnamon-cured red onions. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

We were heartbroken to hear the news Wednesday that Chef Mateo Granados’ Healdsburg restaurant will close its doors permanently on July 24. Granados, who announced the closure in a Facebook post, cited the many challenges restaurateurs have faced over the last few years as the reason behind the decision.

When the upscale Yucatan-inspired restaurant opened 10 years ago, it was one of the few dining destinations in Sonoma County to truly showcase local farmers, ranchers and fishermen. Over the last decade, Granados worked with local purveyors to create dishes that are both inventive and sustainable. We’ll miss seeing his creative takes on rich regional cuisine, though Granados promises that some interesting projects are in the works. Staffing is limited, so reservations are strongly encouraged during the last few weeks of service.

214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, mateoscocinalatina.com

Mateo Granados, owner of Mateo's restaurant in Healdsburg
Mateo Granados, owner of Mateo’s Cocina Latina in Healdsburg. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

More dining news

Burdock opens: We’ve been keeping our eye on this Healdsburg newcomer for months, but it wasn’t until a recent trip to sister business Duke’s for a cocktail (or four) that we discovered the restaurant had officially opened. The backstory, if you missed it in a previous column, involved the founders of Duke’s departing from the popular watering hole unexpectedly in April, leaving the future of the forthcoming next-door restaurant in flux. With little (read, absolutely no) fanfare, Burdock soft launched last weekend. The opening menu from Chef Sean Kelley includes oysters, beef carpaccio, caviar puffs, baked oysters Cubano, Dungeness crab salad, griddled asparagus and crispy pork belly. 109a Plaza St., Healdsburg, burdockbar.com.

Yes, it’s homemade: We need to talk about Mary’s Pizza Shack’s ranch dressing. It’s totally the best, right? I hadn’t given it a ton of thought until my husband (and ranch dressing connoisseur) pointed out that it was especially great. Maybe the best ever. And it’s probably not the stuff that comes in 10-gallon buckets. Ever the doubter, I asked the folks at Mary’s what the deal is with this creamy, garlicky, completely addictive dip. It turns out it’s actually homemade and, even more thrilling, you can get the recipe in the Mary’s Italian Family cookbook. I promised not to divulge all the details of the dressing, but it does include buttermilk as well as red wine vinegar, fresh herbs and Tabasco! There are plenty of other favorite Mary’s recipes, along with stories about the local icon and her family, in the cookbook. Order at maryspizzashack.com.

Ever Tasted White Pinot? This Sonoma Winery Thinks You Should

By Dana Rebmann

It’s no secret that you can drink well in Sonoma wine country. The area boasts an impressive number of grape varietals that thrive in this climate and produce excellent wines for every palate. Oenophiles have come to expect only the best from regional vineyards, but every now and then there’s a bottle that still manages to impress. Among them this year is a white pinot noir. Yes, you read that right.

Sonoma’s Schug Carneros Estate Winery just released its first new wine in 12 years. And it’s a white pinot.

“There aren’t that many producers (of white pinot noirs),” says winemaker Johannes Scheid. “It’s a little bit unknown. I think that’s why we made it.”

It was winery founder Walter Schug’s love of pinot noir that inspired him to create his own Sonoma wine label 40 years ago. Schug, who was raised on a German vineyard along the Rhine River that specialized in pinot noir, arrived in Northern California wine country in the early 1960s and quickly gained fame for his winemaking and pinot expertise. Today, his children carry on his legacy together with German-American winemaker Johannes Scheid.

“We are honoring my father’s lifelong passion for the noble and historic grape variety and building upon that with an innovative, modern expression of pinot noir,” says Claudia Schug, co-owner and Director of Communication and Education at Schug Carneros Estate Winery.

Walter Schug, founder of Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)
Walter Schug, founder of Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)

Claudia Schug had the opportunity to taste white pinot noir from several different wineries while living in Germany for almost 30 years and always found these wines intriguing. So when it was decided that her Sonoma winery should add another white wine to its portfolio, pinot noir seemed like the perfect choice: it was a grape varietal the winery already had access to and much experience making wine from.

The biggest challenge producing a white pinot noir is making sure there is no color in the wine. Vineyard staff had to work fast, while also being careful, when picking the grapes, grown at Ricci Vineyards in Carneros. The fruit was hand-picked at night, quickly transported to the winery and pressed without any skin contact to preserve the pale color. Just the pressure from the weight of the grapes against each other had the potential to add unwanted hues.

Free-run juice was then fermented in neutral French oak barrels and aged for five months “sur lie” (French for “on the lees,” meaning the wine is kept in contact with yeast particles, or lees, during the aging process). The wine was stirred just twice, using a technique called bâtonnage, to mix the settled lees back into the wine. The result: a white wine made from red wine grapes with flavors of wild strawberries, rhubarb, a hint of black cherry and white peach.

“I would say if you like pinot noir, you’ll like this one as well,” says Scheid.

Only five barrels, or approximately 1,400 bottles, of the winery’s 2020 White Pinot Noir were produced — most likely, it won’t last long. The wine ($42) is available through the winery, but sales are limited to ensure availability for wine club members.

When asked if more white pinot noir might be in the winery’s future, both Schug and Schied quickly responded, “Definitely.”

“Moving forward, we want to experiment a little bit more,” says Schied. “We have some good wines in our portfolio so far but we always want to try and come up with something else, something new.”

602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-939-9363, schugwinery.com

Local LGBTQ-Owned Businesses To Support This Pride Month and All Year Long

By Kaila Bohler
Alisse Cottle, left, and Jessica Borrayo of Brew Coffee and Beer House. (Loren Hanson Photography)

On June 26, 2015, just six months after opening Brew Coffee and Beer House in Santa Rosa, life and business partners Alisse Cottle and Jessica Borrayo hoisted a 5-foot-long rainbow flag outside their fledgling business to celebrate the Supreme Court ruling that made same-sex marriage a right nationwide.

On January 5 this year, the rainbow flag still flying outside their coffee shop and taproom, Cottle and Borrayo celebrated Brew’s 6th anniversary with free coffee for customers and an open mic night on Zoom. Like other restaurants, they had been forced to halt indoor services due to the pandemic. But the couple still found a way to bring people together on that day, just like they have since 2015.

“We have always felt that we want to create a place where everyone is welcome, especially people like us,” Cottle said.

This Pride Month, we at Sonoma Magazine join the celebrations by highlighting some of our local LGBTQ-owned businesses. The owners of these businesses feel they have a mission that extends beyond running a company. They want to bring people together and give back to the community, while serving up exceptionally delicious food, glasses of wine and cups of coffee.

Brew Coffee and Beer House

This friendly establishment just west of downtown Santa Rosa serves locally-sourced coffee, beer and baked goods. Brew also offers a menu of rotating food items prepared in-house, including a few creative takes on the ever-popular avocado toast. The homey dining room doubles as an art gallery, displaying works by local artists, and as an event space for open mic nights and music performances. 

While pandemic guidelines have put many of Brew’s events on hold — or relocated them to Zoom — some favorites have returned, including the RuPaul’s Drag Race viewing parties. Brew will be partnering with Translife to host Paint the Town Queer, a family-friendly event to close out Pride Month on June 26 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. 

555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com

Cowgirl Creamery

Cowgirl Creamery, founded in 1997 by college friends and chefs, Peggy Smith and Sue Conley, is an organic cheese company located in the heart of the North Bay. After arriving in the Bay Area in the 1970s and then working in some of San Francisco’s most famous kitchens, the duo sought to create a company “that would celebrate overlooked communities.” 

With its two founders now retired, Cowgirl Creamery remains “a proudly LGBTQ+ led company,” dedicated to creating an inclusive environment. In a recent blog post on the company website, current Managing Director Amanda Parker reflects on how her own identity, as well as that of the company, have been shaped by Pride and the LGBTQ community. 

Cowgirl Creamery’s 13 cheeses — Red Hawk and Mt Tam are dairy darlings — can be sampled and bought at the creamery’s cheese shop in Point Reyes Station. The Creamery’s cheeses can also be found online, in local supermarkets and worldwide.

80 4th St, Point Reyes Station, 866-433-7834, cowgirlcreamery.com

Mercury Wine

Mercury Wine owner Brad Beard first came to Sonoma County from Phoenix, Arizona in 2008. “Geyserville mines brought Italian immigrants, Italians brought grapes and grapes brought me,” Beard said. The winery’s name pays homage to both Geyserville’s historical mercury mines and to Freddie Mercury, the late lead singer of the rock band Queen. Freddie Mercury also is the name of Beard’s friendly dog, who is always ready to greet customers upon their visit.  

The tasting room, operated by Brad’s brother, Grady Beard, is a popular stop for tours, including Out in the Vineyard, an event and travel company that caters specifically to the LGBTQ community. The Mercury team strives to make their establishment a friendly and inviting environment, often putting on live music performances with the owners and other guests for happy hour. 

Mercury wines play with the themes from the winery’s local and musical roots: included in their lineup is a Freddie Cuvee, Heavy Metal Red Blend and a mourvédre and merlot blend called Element. Visitors can taste wine outdoors on a patio and then dine, just a few steps away from the tasting room, at top regional restaurants Catelli’s and Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria. The tasting room is open Friday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Reservations are recommended. 

21025 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-9870, mercurywine.com

Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar

Life partners and entrepreneurs Ozzy Jimenez and Christian Sullberg opened Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar in Healdsburg in 2014. At the time, the confectionary duo had already made a mark with their first business, Moustache Baked Goods, a patisserie off the Healdsburg Plaza specializing in pretty cupcakes in a variety of flavors (the patisserie closed due to the pandemic and continues now as a catering business). In 2018, they opened a second location for Noble Folk in downtown Santa Rosa. 

The Noble Folk storefronts proudly fly the rainbow flag and the transgender pride flag and display Black Lives Matter posters to signal that these businesses celebrate diversity and inclusion. But Jimenez’ and Sullbergs’ dedication to their community extends beyond the walls of their establishments. During the Kincade Fire in 2019, the couple helped feed hundreds of displaced farmworkers. Last year, Jimenez was appointed vice mayor of Healdsburg, making him the second openly gay member and the first person of color in three decades on the City Council. 

Noble Folk has been recognized by the San Francisco Business Journal as one of the top LGBTQIA+ owned businesses in the Bay Area for the last six years. This year, they were named one of the 12 best ice cream spots in the Bay Area by the San Francisco Chronicle. Try their new blueberry cheesecake ice cream flavor inspired by a local children’s book. 

116 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4426; 539 4th St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3392, thenoblefolk.com

Radical Family Farms

Radical Family Farms was founded by life partners Leslie Wiser and Sarah Deragon in 2019 in an effort to reclaim Asian American identities on the land and to center LGBTQIA+ mixed-Asian American heritage and culinary culture through the vegetables, herbs, meals and events produced on the farm, according to their mission statement.

“I think I would have turned to farming sooner if I had seen more farmers like me. Visibility and representation matter … especially to folks who are ambiguous in race and gender,” Deragon said in an interview with Sonoma Magazine. (Read the article here). 

The farm specializes in Asian heritage produce, medicinal herbs, flowers and heirloom seeds. They don’t have an open market, but the farm operates a Community Supported Agriculture program that delivers boxes of the Asian heritage produce and flowers within their community as well as to members throughout the Bay Area. If you don’t want to commit to a box just yet, seeds, edible flowers and medicinal herb can be purchased through their online store.

707-210-2773, radicalfamilyfarms.com

This is not a comprehensive list of LGBTQ-owned businesses in Sonoma County. Please add your favorites to the comments. 

Pair Wine Tasting With Yoga at These Sonoma Wineries

By Claire Weber
The patio at Trentadue Winery in Geyserville. (Courtesy of Trentadue Winery)

Imagine the kind of deep relaxation you experience after finishing a yoga class. Now add a glass of wine to that. Pairing wine with yoga became a fitness trend a few years ago, delivering a “double whammy of calm” to practitioners.  In Sonoma County, yogis and oenophiles can sip vino post savasana in the middle of a vineyard. What could be more blissful than that? Click through the gallery above for a look at different wineries offering yoga and wine experiences. 

The Pool at Francis Ford Coppola Winery Is Now Open

By Dana Rebmann
The pool area at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville. (Francis Ford Coppola Winery)

The calendar may say it’s still spring, but as far as temperatures go, summer is already in full swing in Sonoma wine country. After a few days of record heat, we are ready to cool down poolside with a glass of rosé and a good book.

There are plenty of pools and swimming holes in Sonoma and Napa. One of the most popular places to take a dip — and sip wine — is Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville. The pool opened for the summer season on June 15 and will welcome visitors until October 4 (it reopens for the fall season on October 9).

This year, there are some changes you need to be aware of before you pack your swimsuit and head to the famous movie director’s winery. Access to the sparkling 3,600 square-foot pool is only available with a cabine reservation. Similar to cabanas, cabines are European-style changing rooms with private showers and towels. Cabine reservations (starting at $220) provide pool access for four people. To ensure social distancing, chaise lounge chairs are being assigned to guests. Individual pool passes are not available this season.

(Pro-tip from one of our readers if you can’t get a reservation: “They typically have cancellations each week; if you have the flexibility to be spontaneous, check the reservations first thing in the morning on a Monday and you may be able to snatch a cancellation for that week.”)

Swimmers and sunbathers at Francis Ford Coppola Winery can dry off and play bocce ball, dine at the Pool Café or Rustic restaurant and head inside the winery to visit the tasting room (reservations recommended) or check out Coppola’s collection of movie memorabilia. Face masks must be worn as guests move around the property. Masks are not required when seated in a lounge chair or when in the water.

Pool House wines from Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville. (Francis Ford Coppola Winery)
Pool House wines from Francis Ford Coppola Winery. (Courtesy photo)

To further enhance your summertime experience, Francis Ford Coppola Winery has launched a new series of low-alcohol wines, Pool House, available poolside and for shipping via the winery’s website. The wines were inspired by the pool at the winery, where guests often request session wines to enjoy during daytime visits.

“We created Pool House wines to be full-flavored first, with the added benefit of lower calories, sugar and alcohol,” said Corey Beck, Winemaking Chief for Francis Ford Coppola Winery. “A lot went into the vineyard selection to make this possible, and we’re thrilled to share the final product in time for the summer season.”

The Pool House range, available in 12 oz cans and 750 ml bottles, includes a sauvignon blanc, a rosé, a pinot noir and a brut rosé.

The Francis Ford Coppola Winery pool is open daily, now through October 4, 2021. From October 9 through October 24, the pool will be open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Pool hours are 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1471, thefamilycoppola.com.

There are other great pools in Sonoma County to help you stay cool. Click through the above gallery to find out where you can take a dip this summer. We recommend you call each pool before making plans — hours and regulations are changing by the day.

New Brunch Option Comes to Sonoma

By Heather Irwin
Outdoor dining area at Layla restaurant at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. (Karyn Millet/MacArthur Place)

Sonoma’s got a new brunch spot to check out as Layla at MacArthur Place rolls out a weekend menu that includes olive oil pancakes with cinnamon toast crunch and whipped cream; biscuits and country gravy; short rib eggs and hash; multigrain arugula bowl with smoked salmon and tasty cocktails like the “Slownoma Mary” with slow-roasted-tomato paste or the Apiary with gin, Yerba Mate tea, raw honey and lemon.

One of the best restaurants for outdoor dining in Sonoma Valley, Layla serves upscale Mediterranean and New American cuisine for lunch and dinner. It’s a great place to share some plates with friends and sip on a craft cocktail. MacArthur Place underwent a $25 million remodel that was completed in 2019 and was subsequently named one of the top new and renovated hotels in the world in 2020 by Travel + Leisure Magazine. In addition to Layla, the hotel also has a new bar and coffee shop/marketplace, The Porch.

Brunch is served 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, macarthurplace.com.

Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen Serves up Sunny Dishes With an Ocean View

By Heather Irwin

A windblown cypress juts into the horizon line just above Dillon Beach. Standing on a bluff above the state’s only private coastal beach, you can see children playing below, birds flying above and silver ripples reflecting the evening sun. It’s a soul-satisfying 180-degree view usually reserved for those at million-dollar beach houses and fancy restaurants. At the Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen, however, you can get an al fresco meal, including a luxurious bowl of chowder, organic strawberry goat cheese salad and a soft-serve cone for under $30, with no one giving you the side-eye because they want to turn the table.

It’s an experience we’ve missed for so long. The coastal restaurant first pivoted, then closed and then finally reopened with a new chef, Jennifer McMurry, formerly of Viola Cafe and The Pharmacy. It was McMurry’s delicious Facebook photos, in fact, that alerted us to the changing of the guard and a fresh new menu.

And she’s completely found her groove here.

Using produce from local growers, McMurry makes food as beautiful as the view. Not just visually — most dishes are dressed with pretty edible flowers and greens — but also in the flavors each dish incorporates. McMurry always has known how to balance dishes delicately, adding a pop of citrus, a hint of salt, a little crunch or a surprising sweetness.

If you’ve never been out to Dillon Beach, it’s an opportunity to get to know the resort, which owns the kitchen along with cottages and a general store/surf shop. Though the beach is private, visitors can get a day pass for $10 and it is very dog-friendly.

Looking out from the picture windows onto the vast blue ocean and even bluer skies, it’s hard not to sing an off-key rendition of “Perfect Day” (you know, the early 2000s song by Hoku on the Legally Blonde soundtrack) with my hair blowing in the wind. Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen is, no doubt, the place to finish off your perfect day.

Strawberry goat cheese salad at Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen in Dillon Beach. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Strawberry goat cheese salad at Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen in Dillon Beach. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Best Bets

You really can’t go wrong with any of the dishes on the menu, which changes with the seasons. Here are some can’t-miss favorites right now.

Peach and Corn Salsa, $13: White peaches are perfectly in season, adding a sweet-tart juiciness to this mix of fresh corn, mild red onions, jalapeños and sour vinaigrette that pulls everything together. Scoop up heaps of the summery salsa with housemade tortilla chips, the perfect dip delivery system.

Beet and Avocado Toast, $13: People who dismiss avocado toast as millennial frippery do themselves no favors. A thick (but not too thick) slice of airy pain de ville from Santa Rosa’s Goguette Bread is topped by a generous schmear of fresh avocado, thin-sliced pickled yellow beets, pea shoots and edible flowers. It’s a work of art with enough nourishment to get you through an afternoon of surfing or sandcastle building.

Strawberry Goat Cheese Salad, $15: Too many restaurants have destroyed this California classic with tasteless strawberries, wilted spring mix and tough goat cheese. I usually avoid it at all costs. Don’t make that mistake here. True to the original vision of this salad, it’s a luxurious pile of sweet local berries, creamy goat cheese, pea shoots and organic baby lettuces so ephemeral they must be eaten immediately. A red wine vinaigrette elevates the flavors rather than assaulting your taste buds with brute force.

Organic Spring Vegetables and Hummus, $19: This is plant-based eating with nothing missing. Sugar snap peas, crisp asparagus, sliced carrots and earthy hummus are as easy to eat as they are to simply behold. Housemade focaccia adds so much more than the usual dry pita.

Crispy Fries, $8: If for no other reason than their potential for dipping into the delicate Meyer lemon aioli, you should order fries. Again, McMurry wows with her restraint in this gently perfumed sauce that’s exactly what it should be.

Fried Chicken Sandwich, $18: This is my new favorite fried chicken sandwich, with a thick and juicy slab of white meat, spicy pickles, shredded cabbage, aioli and greens.

Fish and Chips, $21: The rock cod is super fresh, with a lovely flake and mellow taste. After tasting so many dishes at the table, I was dreading a big bite of fried fish but was pleasantly surprised after a squeeze of lemon at how light and yielding the breading was, holding onto the fish rather than letting it slide out with a greasy fried jacket in my hand and the fish on the floor.

Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta, $9: Flecks of vanilla bean are suspended in creamy decadence. But what really makes this dessert shine are macerated strawberries and sweet caramel corn on top.

Clam Chowder, $12: “This is the best chowder I’ve ever had,” my dad said. “And you can quote me on that!” We’re not throwing any shade by saying that Bob Irwin likes his food simple, flavorful and mostly uncomplicated. He just knows what he likes, and the chowder was a hit. What impressed him, as well as the rest of us at the table, were the briny clams and applewood-smoked bacon with lots of chunks of potato and leeks. Even though the bacon does overpower the chowder a bit, we’ll still go with Bob’s take on this seaside staple.

Peach, Mozzarella and Bacon Sandwich, $17: Peaches from a nearby orchard play a role in this hefty sandwich, along with a hunk of fresh mozzarella, baby arugula and aioli. The thick-cut Sonoma County Meat Co. bacon is solid, but again, maybe just a little overpowering against the gentler flavors of peach and mozzarella. Thick focaccia is a bit overwhelming as well, and frankly, I think this combo could be just as tasty as a salad.

House Veggie Burger, $18: Plant-based burgers are still coming into their own, evolving from grainy bean and oatmeal disasters to beet-blood burgers and everything in between. There are clearly opposing camps when it comes to this bun-patty-bun combo. This sunny yellow burger stands on its own, with chickpeas and beets. It has a mellow flavor, but it’s made extra special with a melted chunk of nearby Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam cheese.

A very brief wine list, beer and nonalcoholic beverages are available.

Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen, 1 Beach Ave., Dillon Beach, 707-878-3030, dillonbeachresort.com. Currently open Friday through Sunday for lunch and dinner; more hours coming soon.

New Italian Takeout Spot Opens in Downtown Petaluma

By Heather Irwin
Italian pastry from Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Stellina Pronto)

The closure of Chef Christian Caiazzo’s Osteria Stellina in Point Reyes last August marked the beginning of a particularly challenging period for local restaurants. Several already had closed due to the pandemic and as wildfire smoke once again filled the air, those that remained open were forced to pivot to takeout as they shuttered outdoor dining areas.

Like other restaurant owners, Caiazzo had grown tired of recurring natural disasters and the volatility full-service restaurants faced in the wake of the pandemic. But rather than walk away from the restaurant world altogether, he has now opened an Italian takeout spot in downtown Petaluma. Stellina Pronto will offer Italian pastries with Linea coffee in the mornings and soon-to-come sandwiches, salads and pizzas.

Owner Christian Caiazzo and Katrina Fried in front of Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (PHOTO BY RAY TANG)
Owner Christian Caiazzo and Katrina Fried in front of Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Photo: Ray Tang)

Located at 23 Kentucky St., the takeout spot also serves up local and Italian specialty items, including Calabrian chili sauce, pickled sea beans, preserved octopus, cookies and biscotti. Caiazzo plans to add a wine, craft beer and cider retail area and is teasing customers with promises of fresh Zeppole — fried ricotta doughnuts served with powdered sugar.

Opening hours are 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Monday, stellinapronto.com.

5 Sonoma Wineries to Visit Right Now

By Jean Saylor Doppenberg

Wineries are turning up the heat on summer fun. Here are a few tasting rooms and terraces to while away a summer’s day.

Featured: Flowers & Vineyards Winery

Joan and Walt Flowers have been growing wine grapes on the rugged Sonoma Coast — the “outer reaches,” as they like to say — since the early 1980s. Known for steep elevations and the influence of coastal fog, the vineyards in this area grow exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Flowers’ Camp Meeting Ridge vineyard rises to 1,450 feet in elevation, and the Sea View Ridge vineyard is even loftier, reaching 1,875 feet.

A few miles inland at the House of Flowers tasting room along Westside Road, reserve the Flowers Flight ($55) for a guided tour of the coastal estate wines, or Bottles & Provisions ($75) which comes with seasonal bites from the on-site full kitchen. This spring, Flowers will be pouring its 2020 Sonoma Coast Rosé, made from 100% Pinot, which shows with fresh citrus on the palate along with nectarine and stone fruit.

4035 Westside Road, Healdsburg, (707) 723-4800, flowerswinery.com

Amapola Creek Winery: With winemaking icon Richard Arrowood as a consultant, Amapola Creek still remains a small, family-owned winery renowned for its organic Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, the red Rhône-style Cuvée Alis (named for Arrowood’s wife), and the Monte Rosso Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel. This month, the one-on-one outdoor tasting of five wines ($40) will feature 2017 vintages of Cabernet and Cuvée Alis. 392 London Way, Sonoma. (707) 938-3783, amapolacreek.com 

Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery: This organic and biodynamically farmed estate in Russian River Valley welcomes visitors with a seated patio tasting of five wines ($25), as well as a wine and tapas tasting ($55). Owner Marimar Torres is originally from Spain, and she and daughter Cristina focuses on Spanish varietals like Albariño and Tempranillo. “People have heard about our Albariño, and they seek us out year-round to experience it,” says manager Alice Hunter. “We generally offer it as the first taste of the flight.” The winery is hosting a casual tennis tournament and lunch on May 22 ($110) to celebrate the release of its 2020 Rosaleda Rosé of Pinot Noir. 1140 Graton Road, Sebastopol. (707) 823-4365, marimarestate.com 

Saini Vineyards: Four generations of the Saini family have been farming in the Dry Creek and Alexander valleys for more than 100 years. Their label launched in 2008, with Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, and rosé. “We’ve added three different Zins and a Grenache, and this year we’ll also be releasing a 100% Sangiovese,” says partner Laura Saini. You can choose to taste in the vineyard, and this month you can add a charcuterie platter for $25. 2507 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-8477, sainivineyards.com

St. Anne’s Crossing: Choose from over a dozen single-vineyard bottlings of Zinfandel at this spot in the heart of Sonoma Valley. “We’ll also definitely be pouring our 2020 Maggie’s Sauvignon Blanc this month, along with some new releases,” says manager Barbara Russack. “On Mother’s Day, which is a favorite of our staff, we plan to offer a small token of appreciation to every mom and will have two sparkling wines to choose from for the starting pour.” Tastings are $25. 8450 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood. (707) 598-5200, stannescrossing.com