When Guerneville’s Baked on the River cafe closed in late 2024, it felt like the end of a dream for chef and owner Helena Gustavsson Giesea. She had given up her lease with plans to relocate but when the new location fell through, she was left without a clear path forward. With no other option, she packed up her kitchen and put her equipment in storage.
“It was tough to pack up without knowing where we would be,” said Gustavsson Giesea, who opened Baked on the River in 2018.
As word of her plight spread, offers for new spaces rolled in, from Napa Valley to the Sonoma Coast. But there was one offer she couldn’t refuse — the R3 Hotel.
“It was my top choice and it felt like coming home to a family,” said the Swedish-born chef.
The quirky cafe inside the LGBTQ+ hotel had long been a local hangout for guests and residents alike (it was formerly Betty Spaghetti and later the Rio Café). With a turnkey kitchen, the space was ready to reopen as the new Baked on the River — and did so in just 10 days.
In late May, Gustavsson Giesea opened her doors and has been busy crafting and recrafting the menu ever since — a process that fuels her creativity, she said.
The place
The R3 Hotel has a long history as a social hub, dating back to the town’s cultural transformation in the 1980s, when it became a popular summer retreat for gay and lesbian travelers from around the Bay Area. Originally built as a motor lodge in the 1940s, the hotel has undergone several renovations but retains much of its original character.
Baked on the River sits just inside the hotel entrance, with windows overlooking a private, fenced-in pool area. Hotel guests provide a built-in clientele for poolside dining and room service, but the cafe is open to the public. While much of the resort is 21+, the restaurant is family-friendly.
Inside, glass doors and windows block out most of the poolside music, though the tile floors and bare walls inside could use some soundproofing — something Gustavsson Giesea said she is working on, along with finishing the decor. Cheerful, sun-kissed tables are scattered throughout the restaurant.
The food
A longtime chef and baker, Gustavsson Giesea previously operated two other Guerneville restaurant ventures: Charizma Wine Lounge & Deli on Main Street and a kitchen at the former Whitetail Wine Bar. Both, she said, were a little ahead of their time. Since opening Baked on the River, she’s weathered two floods, two fires and a pandemic, maintaining her optimism and loyal customer base through it all.
The restaurant has given her a chance to stretch her culinary wings, with a menu that spans barbecue, baked fish and burgers.
“I love to create dishes in my head and I want my food to be complex, but in a simple way,” she said.
Best bets
Brunch
Brunch is offered 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. On my first visit at 10 a.m. on a Sunday, the restaurant was nearly empty, but by 11 a.m., it was packed inside and out — lazy weekends start late here.
Gustavsson Giesea leans into her Swedish heritage on many dishes, but her Pancakes from the North ($18) are a must-try. These thin Swedish pancakes (think sweet crepes) are served with a hearty dollop of vanilla whipped cream, lingonberry jam, butter and syrup.
Scones are a specialty here, and the Groovy Stoned & Gravy ($18) is a standout with bacon and cheddar, smothered with creamy vegetarian gravy that’s as good as the sausage kind. (Many dishes are available vegetarian and gluten-free.)
Savory brunch options include Avocado Toast ($18) with an herby guacamole, soft egg and seeded bread; Frittata with Swedish Meatballs ($20); and a hearty Hash in a Pan ($22) with chicken sausage, pancetta, poached egg and potatoes.
Dinner
Dinner is offered 5-9 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. You’re here for the award-winning salmon chowder and barbecue.
The rich, creamy chowder ($9 cup, $18 bowl) is a Double Gold Harvest Fair Winner for a reason. Flecks of salmon and diced potatoes swim in a thick chowder seasoned with white pepper and herbs. Not too thick, not too thin — just right.
I was skeptical that a baker could pull off decent barbecue, but Gustavsson Giesea does. The fall-off-the-bone pork ribs ($32) are applewood smoked, grilled and baked with an apple glaze. Served with warm German-style potato salad, applesauce and slaw, it’s my favorite entrée. Smoked brisket and pulled pork are also excellent.
Mahi-mahi ($28) is a new menu item, served with grilled pineapple, butternut squash and green beans. Traditional Swedish meatballs and mashed potatoes ($26) are also available gluten-free or vegetarian.
For dessert, the chewy Mocha Cake ($10) — Gustavsson Giesea’s take on a Swedish brownie — is delightful with a crisp edge, vanilla whipped cream and berry sauce.
Baked on the River is at 16390 Fourth St., Guerneville. 707-865-6060, bakedontheriver.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.