Leah Scurto isn’t afraid to think outside the pizza box when it comes to toppings for her award-winning pies — asparagus, sunchokes, pineapple, orange zest — but there’s one thing the PizzaLeah owner refuses to use: Green peppers.
“They just take over everything,” she said, wrinkling her nose.
Ingredients are integral to Scurto. In 2024, she received Slow Food Sonoma County’s Snail of Approval for her dedication to sourcing sustainable, ethical ingredients from local farms and food producers like SingleThread Farms, Journeyman Meats and Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co.
More than just a neighborhood pizzeria, PizzaLeah has become a destination for devotees of New York, Detroit and “grandma style” pies made by Sonoma County’s world-renowned pizzaiola.
Flour is in Scurto’s DNA, and sauce is in her soul.
Road to success
In an industry dominated by men, Scurto has risen to the top of her craft as a World Pizza Champions team member and five-time pizza national champion. She was also featured on Hulu’s original show “Best In Dough” in 2022.
When PizzaLeah opened in March 2020, just as COVID-19 took hold, Scurto’s fledgling takeout business became a welcome reprieve for families in lockdown. Her easy smile and shockingly good pizzas kept customers coming back.
Dough is the foundation on which all great pizzas are made, and Scurto doesn’t mess around. Passionate about the art and science of pizza-making, she carefully evaluates each batch, adjusting for subtle shifts in temperature or humidity and getting a literal feel for the dough’s unique character.
“It should never be the same, because it’s a living thing. I make it every morning and the result is always different,” she said.
Like any obsessive bread baker, her proof is in the proofing.
‘Everyone eats pizza’
As one of the most widely consumed foods in the world, pizza needs no introduction — it is a shared culinary memory for nearly everyone.
“Not everyone ate Chinese food or other cuisines growing up, but everyone ate pizza,“ said Scurto. “There’s that nostalgia of having it at a soccer party or with your kids. I try to tap into that.”
That connection has earned PizzaLeah a spot on numerous “best of” lists for Bay Area pizza, which is no small feat in a region notoriously picky about its pies. But unlike some traditionalists, Scurto won’t chide anyone for drizzling hot honey on their slice or dipping crusts in her housemade ranch dip.
“We have hot honey on our menu. We have ranch. I think people should eat what they like to eat,” she said. “Anyone saying, ‘You can’t eat that,’ is wrong.”
Fun fact
Scurto travels to pizza competitions with her favorite flour from Petaluma’s Central Milling, whole milk mozzarella and even bottles of local water — frozen for the trip. “I know its mineral content,” she said.
The Food
Crust is a big deal at PizzaLeah and comes in a regular thin New York, crispy Detroit or square “grandma style.”
The Mush-a-Roni is a perfect place to start. The square pizza (made in limited quantities) has a thick, airy crust with red sauce, pepperoni, mushrooms, shaved Parmesan and basil. Move on to the Po-Tay-To, with smashed potatoes, smoked bacon, garlic cream and mozzarella.
Pizza pros know that Old Grey Beard is one of Scurto’s signature creations — a spicy, sassy round pie with fontina, mozzarella, Italian sausage, Calabrian peppers, hot honey and orange zest.
Don’t miss the deceptively simple Caesar salad or Uncle Frank’s meatballs, a secret family recipe with flecks of pecorino cheese and a sublime tomato sauce.
The Perks
Wednesday is Detroit pizza day, with Scurto’s crispy, crackly pan pizzas.
The Tab
Thin-crust round specialty pies are $23 (12-inch) or $31 (16-inch). Square pies are $31, and the required garlic knots are $8.50.
The Deals
Scurto likes to hide gift cards to the restaurant for social media followers to find. Follow her on Instagram @pizzaleah707.
The Service
Fast, friendly and fun. There are several inside tables and a lovely patio if you’re sticking around.
The Love
Scurto’s Fork to Future nonprofit helps upcoming female pizza-makers with their education in a low-stress environment.
The Spot
9240 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 116 inside Bell Village, Windsor, 707-620-0551, pizzaleah.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.