It’s rare for a restaurant opening to sneak up on me, but last week, Levant quietly soft-opened in Petaluma’s Theater District, offering an extensive menu that showcases the flavors of Syria, Lebanon, Jordan and Palestine.
Co-owner Arafat “Art” Herzallah of San Francisco’s popular Freekah restaurant has teamed up with longtime Petaluma residents Saheer Kassis and Issa Musalla to create a Middle Eastern culinary oasis at the site of the former Trattoria Roma.
Many dishes on Levant’s menu are tried-and-true favorites from Freekah, including cold mezze samplers with creamy hummus, yogurt-based labneh, smoky baba ghanoush and muhamarra, a sweet red pepper dip with walnuts ($21-$28). All are served with warm bites of pita bread.
Hot mezze, such as fried halloumi (Jibneh Halloumi, $12), grilled Palestinian cheese (Jibneh Nabulsi, $12), fried cauliflower with tahini sauce (Zahara Bil Tahini, $16) and falafel ($10), also appear on the Freekah menu, along with skewers, wraps and salads.
Unlike the tapas-style dishes at Freekah, Levant dives deeper into the traditional, family-style meals of the Middle East, like Kufta ($24), a ground beef and lamb dish with sliced potatoes, onions and spices, topped with tahini or tomato sauce; and Lahme ($26), lamb simmered with potatoes. Mansaf ($32), a classic Jordanian dish made with lamb, spiced saffron rice and jameed (fermented yogurt), is an intensely flavored option that, while not my cup of tea, offers an earthy tangy richness inspired by Herzallah’s grandmother’s recipe.
The menu features a handful of Lebanese and Jordanian wines alongside pungent Turkish coffee and delicious mint tea.
First impressions
Levant is warm and inviting, and Herzallah’s wife, Monyca Currier-Herzallah, is an excellent guide, offering detailed explanations (sometimes with family stories) of each dish. As a longtime vegetarian, she has added plant-based meat options to an already vegetarian-friendly menu (which also features many gluten-free options).
The restaurant’s interior remains largely unchanged, with warm wood tones and earthy hues in the compact, 1,700-square-foot space. While the open kitchen can get a bit noisy at times, it also provides a fascinating peek at ingredients and preparations.
Several dishes were a little heavy-handed on the salt, but spiced saffron rice had an intoxicating scent. Plates are meant to be shared, so be sure to go with friends and dip your pita bread with abandon.
There’s no shortage of Middle Eastern cuisine in Sonoma County (thankfully), with more than a dozen options for great hummus, tabbouleh, shawarma and falafel. But Levant stands apart with its traditional family recipes and many personal touches — something far harder to find.
Levant is at 140 Second St., Suite 100, Petaluma, 707-658-8017. Website coming soon. Open 4-9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. instagram.com/Levant_Petaluma
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.