When I was in my early 20s and just starting to drink wine, I couldn’t get enough of that oaky-buttery thing in Chardonnay. The richer the better! But over time, as I sampled more wines from all over the world, I came to appreciate versions that whisper of fruit, nuance and minerality — rather than shouting about new oak barrels. That classically restrained California style is what Hanzell Vineyards is all about.
The story
James Zellerbach, an industrialist and U.S. ambassador to Italy, fell for Burgundy’s wines during his travels abroad and set out to create a winery estate back home with similar Old-World magic. The year was 1953 — decades before California became known as a world-class wine region.
The San Francisco native bought a sprawling 200-acre property overlooking Sonoma Valley and planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. At the time, only a few hundred acres of each variety stood in all of North America. In 1957, Hanzell Vineyards — named for Zellerbach’s wife Hana — produced its first vintage.
Along the way, Hanzell pioneered winemaking techniques now widely used across California and beyond. The winery was the first in California to exclusively use all French oak barrels for aging, and the first to design and use small, temperature-controlled stainless-steel fermentation tanks instead of wooden vessels.
Today, the winery is owned by Alexander de Brye, who inherited Hanzell in 1991 at age 16. His mother, Barbara de Brye, a London-based heiress, bought the property sight unseen in 1975.
Hanzell’s original Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard, still producing after all these decades, is among the oldest continuously producing Chardonnay vineyards in North America.
The Sonoma estate now includes 46 acres of certified organic vineyards, producing about 7,000 cases of wine per year.
The vibe
It’s hard to overstate the beauty of Zellerbach’s dream estate. To get there, you’ll drive along a twisty, single-lane road — up, up, up — marveling at sweeping views that stretch out to San Pablo Bay.
Visits start at the Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard, where you’ll learn about the winery’s history and farming practices. (Fun fact: Hanzell uses its resident short-snouted pigs for sustainable weed control!) The tour continues in the winery cave, then moves through the open-air winery to Hanzell’s original 1956 production facility — now a museum filled with fascinating vintage equipment.
Amid early stainless steel tanks in the old Fermentation Room, visitors sample Hanzell wines at a long redwood table or at a smaller perch overlooking the historic vineyard. Be warned: The spot’s serenity and panoramic views make it difficult to leave.
On the palate
Whenever I have a chance to sample Hanzell wines, I’m reminded that this is how classic California Chardonnay is supposed to taste: subtle and balanced, with oak taking a backseat to pure fruit and minerality. These wines can age for decades — not that you’ll want to wait that long to enjoy them.
The 2023 Heritage Chardonnay ($78) is the winery’s flagship, made from vines with an average age of 40 years. The wine is fresh and bright with citrus and green apple flavors.
The 2023 Hanzell Farm Zellerbach Selection Chardonnay ($68) is fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak, so the wine’s juicy citrus and pear elements shine through. Director of winemaking Jason Jardine also excels at Pinot Noir, as evidenced by the 2022 Heritage Pinot Noir ($98). It has fresh red-fruit aromas and cherry and cranberry flavors.
All winery visits ($90 per person) include an educational walking tour and seated tasting.
Beyond the bottle
Get into the holiday spirit and find out which wines pair best with s’mores at the Sonoma Botanical Garden. Throughout December, visitors can take a twilight stroll through a tunnel of twinkling holiday lights, visit a winter craft workshop, and snuggle up fireside for hot chocolate, local wines and melty s’mores. “Gardens Aglow” happens Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from Dec. 5 to Dec. 21.
Hanzell Vineyards, 18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma. Tours Monday through Friday by appointment. 707-996-3860, hanzell.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.