Plump, sweet figs have thrived in Sonoma County since the Mission period. Cyrus Alexander planted fig trees on Rancho Sotoyome lands near Healdsburg in the 1840s and ’50s, and for many years, there was a famous intertwining fig tree — two trees, actually — at Alexander Valley Vineyards. Over the decades, many varieties have thrived here, among them the pale Kadota, Brown Turkey and Black Mission.
The fig is an ancient fruit, cultivated in Egypt and said to have grown in the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Fig trees spread from the eastern Mediterranean to Greece, Italy and France, where dried figs were popular as early as the 1400s.
California produces nearly all of the commercial crop in the U.S. After you’ve eaten your fill of the year’s first figs straight up, they are delicious when made into fresh chutneys or stuffed with blue cheese, wrapped in bacon and grilled. They are also delicious in this easy summer salad, full of refreshing crunch.
Early Summer Salad with Figs, Feta and Scallion Vinaigrette
Serves 4-6
1/2 cup scallion vinaigrette, recipe follows
1/2 head Romaine lettuce, sliced crosswise into 3/8-inch-wide strips
3 ounces (about 1/6 head) purple cabbage, thinly sliced
1/2 cup flatleaf parsley
1/2 tsp. Kosher salt
1 very small red onion, diced (about 1/2 cup)
2 ounces shelled pecans, lightly toasted
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
4 to 6 ripe figs, stems removed, sliced lengthwise into wedges
1 handful fresh spearmint leaves, sliced into thin ribbons
4 or 5 fresh basil leaves, sliced into thin ribbons
Freshly ground black pepper
First, make the vinaigrette and set aside.
Put the lettuce, cabbage and parsley into a wide shallow bowl. Sprinkle lightly with a pinch of salt and toss.
Add the onion, pecans, feta cheese and about 2/3 of the vinaigrette and toss again.
Add the figs, mint, basil and several turns of black pepper and gently toss twice.
Drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette and enjoy right away.
Scallion Vinaigrette
Makes about 1/2 cup
4 scallions, trimmed and cut into very thin rounds
2 garlic cloves, preferably fresh (uncured), crushed and minced
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste Kosher salt
5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. maple syrup
Add scallions, garlic, lemon juice, and a generous pinch of salt into the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times. Add the olive oil and maple syrup and pulse again. Taste and add a bit more salt or lemon juice, if necessary.