Everything about Catelli’s, from the exposed brick walls and timeworn wood floors to the smooth stone hearth, feels lived in. Walking through the door is like a hug from a favorite great-aunt: warm, familiar and faintly perfumed with garlic and red wine.
The homey Geyserville restaurant leans into Italian-American classics like 10-layer lasagna, spaghetti with marinara, chicken Parmesan, minestrone and garlic bread. But its soul is pure Sonoma County.
Nearly 90 years have passed since Santi and Virginia Catelli opened their first restaurant in town. They called it the Rex, after a free sign bearing a mysterious name whose origins remain unclear. The Rex endured for more than half a century, later becoming Catelli’s The Rex, before closing in 1991. It was revived in 2010 by the Catellis’ grandchildren, Domenica and Nick.
Chef Domenica Catelli is the restaurant’s public face, and her recipes anchor much of the menu. A private chef to several celebrities, she has appeared on numerous television cooking shows and is a frequent guest on programs hosted by Guy Fieri.
Catelli’s has reasserted itself as a cornerstone of rural Geyserville, a town without a stoplight and with only a handful of shops and restaurants. It is an irresistible draw for out-of-towners seeking an authentic Sonoma County experience.
Behind her broad smile and signature chestnut braid, Catelli is as comfortable working the line as she is in front of the camera. She is often found in the kitchen or out forging relationships with local farmers and producers.
Food, however, is only part of the equation. Family togetherness is baked into Catelli’s, with big booths and long tables that make it a natural gathering place for groups, whether bound by blood or affection.
“We want it to have a familial vibe — warm, comforting and fun,” Catelli said.
Fun fact
Catelli cooked for Oprah Winfrey for nearly a decade as a private chef and food stylist. She is the author of “Mom-a-Licious” and has appeared on Food Network as both a competitor and a judge.
Go-to spot
Catelli is a regular at Lo & Behold in Healdsburg. “It’s this warm, welcoming place that feels like home,” she said. “It’s my ‘Cheers.'” Catelli, who grew up in her family’s restaurant, spent many hours in a bouncy swing behind the bar — it was a different time.
The star factor
A-list diners have included Justin and Hailey Bieber, Lady Gaga and “Saturday Night Live” alumni Maya Rudolph, Ana Gasteyer and Amy Poehler.
The vibe
Food, family and fun — with family defined broadly and generously.
What to eat
Portions are generous, often large enough for leftovers, particularly pastas and main courses.
Most popular dish – Garlic bread ($11.50): “Every table has it,” Catelli said. Also popular: chicken Parmesan ($29) and spaghetti with Richard’s meat sauce ($25), made with beef, chicken, wine and vegetables.
Burrata and prosciutto ($22): Creamy burrata, ribbons of aged prosciutto, grilled bread and a heap of peppery arugula. Required.
Beef carpaccio ($16): Paper-thin raw beef with shaved Parmesan and fried capers.
Basil Caesar ($10/$17): A classic interpretation with torn basil, Parmesan and lemony dressing.
Domenica’s sauce and spaghetti ($22): A deceptively simple tomato, garlic and olive oil sauce (plus a few secret ingredients), equally good with ravioli or the airy 10-layer lasagna made with ricotta, goat cheese and herbs. The mushroom cream sauce ($26) is rich and indulgent, with lemon zest, three kinds of mushrooms and prosciutto.
Chicken Parmesan ($29): I’m a chicken Parm enthusiast, and I’ve tried the gamut — from Michael Angelo’s frozen entrees to Mary’s Pizza Shack (both solid). This is the ultimate Chicken Parm: Juicy chicken, crisp breading, a pool of sassy tomato sauce, burrata and a bed of smoky, buttery polenta. I may have wept a little.
The rest
A full bar offers specialty cocktails, including the spicy Garden Jalapeño Margarita ($15) with pepper-infused tequila and a chile-salted rim. Gluten-free pasta and several gluten-free dishes are available.
The price
Starters $8-$22; salads $10-$18; pasta $22-$28; mains $29-$34.
The spot
Catelli’s, 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com