When Santa Rosa’s Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar closed its doors in March, it felt like the end of an era. Opened in 2009 by chef John Franchetti, formerly of Tra Vigne, and Kevin Cronin, the wood-fired pizza shop had built a loyal following with its focus on simple Italian cooking and seasonal, local ingredients. Franchetti insisted that everything — from dough to burrata — be made in-house.
But Rosso was too inimitable to go gently into that good night. Less than seven months later, the restaurant reopened under the ownership of John and Linda Ahmadi, a husband-and-wife team who previously ran Sandy’s Take and Bake Pizza. That last detail set off alarm bells in my head — was Rosso about to become another take-and-bake operation?
Happily, the answer is no. Rosso is very much itself again. The space and menu remain unchanged, many staff members have returned, and the food, for the most part, is just as good as you remember. Here’s my take.
Tender veal and pork meatballs ($16) swim in a chunky tomato sugo as bright as the summer sun. The Caesar salad ($14) remains a garlic and Romaine lettuce powerhouse, complemented by lemon anchovy dressing and the gentle heat of Calabrian chili.
The Fungi di Limone pizza ($26) — a longtime favorite revered by my friend group — fell just short on a recent visit. The crust was still the blistered, wood-fired base Rosso fans will recognize, but there were too many thinly sliced mushrooms piled on top, detracting from the taleggio cheese’s hint of funk. A key finishing drizzle of citrusy lemon oil had accidentally been omitted, leaving the flavors somewhat muted. It was a rare misstep, but I will need to continue to investigate. Repeatedly and with gusto.
Rosso’s fried chicken with smashed potatoes and a sweet caramelized pancetta glaze ($27) continues to rank among my top 20 favorite meals in Sonoma County. Coated in arborio rice flour and fried crisp, the chicken remains juicy and flavorful. The smashed potatoes are loaded with butter and cream. It fulfilled every expectation, and we ate every morsel. Somebody may even have licked the plate.
The burrata salad ($15) is difficult to judge fairly because Franchetti originally made the cheese by hand. His version, filled with creamy ricotta, was so good I’ve never met its match. Since his departure from the restaurant in 2015, the burrata has never been the same. The current iteration, served with sweet strawberry compote, prosciutto and balsamic glaze, is a nice starter, but the cheese leans more toward fresh mozzarella in texture.
I don’t envy the Ahmadis — reviving a restaurant with such a devoted following is a daunting task. Memory has a way of softening the negatives, leaving behind sugar-coated recollections of the past: Was that mushroom pizza really as great as I remembered?
No doubt, the soul of the restaurant remains intact. Artist Cheryl Chapman’s familiar illustrations still line the walls. The wine list continues to feature a strong mix of local and Italian selections. And new dishes, including eggplant Parmesan and desserts, are expected to debut soon. Best of all, longtime fans like us can once again gather at an old favorite, with eager forks and a sparkling glass of Lambrusco.
53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-615-7893, rossopizzeria.com