Sonoma County was built on red wine and ravioli.
As the chosen home of thousands of Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the simple food and wine of their homeland became the basis for a flourishing economy, and family names like Bacigalupi, Bastoni, Pedroncelli, Seghesio, Traverso and Martinelli have continued to power that engine.
The Canevaris are part of that local history, selling their cheese and meat-filled ravioli to Mary’s Pizza Shack and nearly every supermarket from San Francisco to the Oregon border — or so the story goes.
The tiny ravioli factory founded in 1929 by Atillio Canevari and later run by his son, Edwin, still sells freshly made ravioli (the original recipe) but has expanded into a popular Italian deli under current owner Lou Chambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati).
A hale and hearty paisan, Chambrone has upped Canevari’s game with fat Italian-style subs, his recipes for lasagna, creamy tiramisu, polenta and dozens of other dishes that show up as daily specials on the handwritten signs outside the deli.
And it’s those idiosyncratic signs with their wobbly handwriting that Chambrone credits for his ongoing success. The deli sits on Lewis Road, a busy thoroughfare extending from Steele Lane to a nearby residential area.
“People would come by and say they’ve driven by here for 10 years and never stopped. It just catches people’s eyes,” he said. Now, they come in out of curiosity or rumbling tummies on their way home from work to see the specials, he added.
The signs are so iconic that a friend made a computer font out of his handwriting — you’ll see it on half a dozen or more signs inside the deli. But Chambrone still likes to write the signs outside himself.
While talking with Chambrone, a line of DoorDash drivers and catering pickups start extending toward the counter. “It’s raining. People are ordering in,” he said. The line continues to grow until it’s nearly out the door.
Excusing himself and heading to the prep area, he dives in to help his small staff.
“I’ll be right with you all. Now, who’s next?”
Fun fact
Chambrone’s son, Dominic Ciambrone, creates bespoke sneakers and footwear for celebrities that start at $5,000. He created a special pair of kicks with red checkered cloth, green trim and tiny ravioli on the laces inspired by Canevari’s. You can see them at the deli.
The vibe
Chambrone and his son Dominic recently renovated the Santa Rosa deli, giving it a warm and inviting feel while keeping the historic charm. The affable Chambrone loves collaborating with other local restaurants and most recently did a special “Cubano Cannelloni” with Carlos Mojica of Guiso Latin Fusion.
The food
Everyone has a favorite here — from the meaty Italian sub, filled with salami, mortadella, capicola, provolone and tangy muffuletta spread, to the frozen ravioli with homemade sauce, fresh cannoli, lasagna, creamy polenta, chop salad and tiramisu. Everything is made fresh and Chambrone champions local purveyors, including Zoe’s Meats, Imwalle Gardens and Franco-American bread.
The recipes are all Chambrone’s, who has spent a lifetime in the restaurant business. “The menu is too long, but it all sells,” he said. “If I take something off, people complain.”
The perks
Though you can sit at one of several tables inside, most of Canevari’s menu is prepared to go. They’ve recently added their menu to DoorDash and Grubhub to make stuffing your face with a gabagool sub even easier.
The tab
Sandwiches range from $14 to $17; Lou’s Chop Salad is $12; and spaghetti, ravioli or creamy mushroom polenta plates are $12 to $13.
The deals
Take and bake Family Platters serve a small crowd and can include ravioli, tri-tip, mesquite chicken, a loaf of garlic bread and sauce. Prices range from $47 to $75.
The service
The staff makes sandwiches lickety-split, even when there’s a line. Chambrone is usually somewhere in the mix: making sandwiches, answering the phone, ringing up customers or entertaining regulars.
The spot
695 Lewis St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6941, canevarisdeli.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.