I can’t remember when pasta became a bad word, but it’s time to welcome back a good plate of tagliatelle and step away from the Lacinato kale and spaghetti squash.
Like forever.
Like most other delicious things, pasta has gotten a bad rap after spending decades as the base of the USDA’s food pyramid, along with bread, cereal and rice. Remember those halcyon days when we didn’t know better?
But even moderation needs to be taken in moderation. Here are some of our favorite pasta dishes that make every calorie count.
Read on below for some top Sonoma County pastas for those cheat days. Click through the above gallery for a sneak peek.
These newcomers are all about pasta
Stella
Stella takes a deep dive into lesser-known regional Italian pasta shapes like Roman tonnarelli (spaghetti’s chunkier cousin), Florentine creste di gallo (ruffled rooster’s crest), rigatoncini (tiny, ridged tubes) that are popular in southern Italy, or tagliatelle (ribbons) from the Emilia-Romagna region. Served al dente — not too soft or too hard — you’ll finally understand why Italians consider pasta part of their national identity. 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com
Acre Pasta
The research and development that went into Acre Pasta’s spaghetti and Sunday red sauce may be NASA-level, but its simplicity is the real magic. Rather than relying on meat, Acre concentrates the juice from canned tomatoes with fennel seed, adding chopped tomatoes at the end. Perfection. 6751 McKinley St. at The Barlow, Sebastopol, 707-329-6734, acrepasta.com
Dry Creek Kitchen Pasta Tasting Menu
There are more than 300 identified pasta shapes in Italy, each with a unique history, birthplace and use — from cheese-filled tubes to ruffled ribbons that grip sauce. Chef Shane McAnelly of Dry Creek Kitchen pays a delicious tribute to his favorites on the restaurant’s six-course pasta tasting menu. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com
Folia Bar & Kitchen
Dry Creek Kitchen’s sister restaurant, Folia Bar & Kitchen at the new Appellation resort in Healdsburg, does a Creste di gallo Pomodoro, cock’s comb-shaped pasta with crisp guanciale, orange tomato and sweet corn that’s outstanding. 101 Dovetail Lane, Healdsburg, 707-723-2130, foliabarandkitchen.com
Classic Favorites
Lasagna Bolognese – Portico, Sebastopol
Crepe-thin layers of pasta with ragu, béchamel sauce and Parmesan cheese. Also available in a vegetarian version. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com
Ragu Bolognese with Tagliatelle – Portico, Sebastopol
The praises have been sung. Thick strands of housemade pasta hold onto the chunks of carrots and green pepper, with ground beef and pork taking center stage. Portions are reasonable — neither too much nor too little. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com
Pappardelle Pasta with Saffron Cream – Portico, Sebastopol
Extra-wide strips of fresh pasta bathed in golden saffron cream are precisely as good as they sound. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com
Cacio e Pepe – Golden Bear Station, Kenwood
Cacio e pepe is a deceptively tricky dish to master and a bellwether dish for me. Chef Joshua Smookler gets it so right, elevating the pasta with seven different kinds of pepper, giving it a spicy punch that lingers on the tongue. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com
Short Rib Agnolotti – Monti’s, Santa Rosa
The recently-updated menu now includes freshly-made pasta, including Lemon Tagliatelle with Dungeness crab and buckwheat pasta with mushroom ragout. We’re especially fond of the hearty short rib agnolotti with fresh horseradish. 714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, montismv.com
Seasonal Pasta – Diavola, Geyserville
We could rave about spaghettini with pork cheek ragu or linguini with manila clams and uni, but what’s so special about this far-flung trattoria is the always-changing seasonal menu. Just order whatever sounds good — you won’t be disappointed. Chef/owner Dino Bugica is the real deal, and his housemade pasta is consistently one of my favorites in Sonoma County. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com
Lasagna – L’oro Di Napoli, Santa Rosa
Pizza is their bread and butter, but a mile-high slice of lasagna with Bechemel is a must-try. 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6394, lorodinapolisantarosa.com
Wild Boar Gnocchi – Risibisi, Petaluma
Housemade gnocchi with braised wild boar is a specialty of this Petaluma restaurant. Risotto is also a favorite. 154 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-766-7600, risibisirestaurant.com
Ravioli di Anatra – Cucina Paradiso, Petaluma
Every pasta is a winner at this longtime Petaluma Italian restaurant, but this housemade ravioli is filled with roast duck in sundried tomato, pine nut and basil sauce. 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com
Pasta Sauce – Cafe Citti, Santa Rosa
Pasta is great, but without the right sauce, it’s just flour and water. The tiny cafe offers 14 sauces made from scratch, including Italian workhorses like Bolognese, marinara, pesto, Alfredo, white clam and puttanesca. Dine in, or pickup (and pretend it’s your own). 2792 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707-523-2690, cafecitti.com.
Ricotta Gnudi – Grata, Windsor
Lighter and fluffier than gnocchi, these little clouds of ricotta come with brown butter, butternut squash and greens. Love. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com
Rigatoni, Ca’Bianca, Santa Rosa
Simple, but delicious, Ca’Bianca’s rigatoni is served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. 835 Second St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-5800, cabianca.com
Lasagna – Catelli’s, Geyserville
No question, hands down the thinnest layers of pasta with Richard’s meat sauce and plenty of cheese. A crispy top makes this such a decadent treat. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com
Spaghetti alla Bolognese – Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, Healdsburg
A neighborhood favorite that locals swear by. Fresh pasta is made daily. 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com