Watching sushi chef Ben Gerelkhuu form shari in his palm is a thing of wonder. With a few impossibly quick wrist flicks and delicate squeezes, the vinegared sushi rice becomes a neat oblong pillow in his palm. Deft fingers flutter over the rice like a sleight-of-hand magic act, a thin slice of fish set gently on top — and voilà, nigiri appears before your eyes.
Gerelkhuu has recently joined the Sushi Kosho team at the Sebastopol restaurant, rolling out a progressive nine-piece omakase nigiri experience he created with Kosho owner Jake Rand. It’s a two-whiskey adventure at the sushi bar, where you can get up close and personal with your food.
I’ve long been a fan of Sushi Kosho, especially after losing the iconic Hana Japanese Restaurant earlier this year. It’s one of the only spots left with high-end fish, properly seasoned rice and well-trained chefs (Gerelkhuu recently worked at the Michelin-rated Sushi by Scratch) behind the counter.
After experiencing a preview version of the $89 experience, I’m impressed. It has all the quality of Sushi by Scratch (which I was ambivalent about) without the theatrics.
Here’s why I’m sold
The omakase experience has an easy, intentional rhythm rather than a pile of sushi landing on your plate at once. Each piece of nigiri is presented like a work of art — which it is. Gerelkhuu places tiny dots of kosho (an aromatic fermented chile paste) with needle-like chopsticks or sprays a pearl of blue cheese foam atop the fish with a flourish.
The nigiri are more than just fish and rice, but they aren’t ridiculous. I’m a purist, and I like the fish and rice to do the talking. Though Gerelkhuu and Rand aren’t afraid of a little embellishment, there’s nothing silly about the experience (OK, the blue cheese foam was a little silly, but entertaining).
The fish is pristine. And cut properly. I hate thick slabs of cheap fish that lesser sushi shops pass off as “generous.” Kosho has always impressed me with intentionally cut nigiri and sashimi.
The chef’s choice intermezzos are outstanding. My experience included uni chawanmushi, a steamed bowl of egg custard with strips of creamy Hokkaido uni, and Wagyu beef chazuke, a bowl of rice with barbecued beef and tea-infused broth.
Reserve online at OpenTable.com/r/sushi-kosho-sebastopol.
Sushi Kosho, 6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-827-6373, koshosushi.com