I can’t remember when pasta became a bad word, but it’s time to welcome back a good plate of tagliatelle and step away from the Lacinato kale and spaghetti squash. Like forever.
But all pastas are not created equal. Kenwood’s newest restaurant, Stella, takes a deep dive into lesser-known Italian regional shapes like Roman tonnarelli (spaghetti’s chunkier cousin), Florentine creste di gallo (ruffled rooster’s crest), rigatoncini (a tiny tube) popular in southern Italy, or tagliatelle (ribbons) from the Emilia-Romagna region. Served al dente — not too soft or too hard — you’ll finally understand why Italians consider pasta part of their national identity.
Stella, which means “star” in Italian, is the realization of a longtime dream for chef Ari Weiswasser. After launching Glen Ellen Star 13 years ago and mastering the craft of wood-fired cooking, the French Laundry alum was ready for a new project.
Teaming up with his wife, Erinn Benziger, and managing partners Spencer and Ashley Waite, Weiswasser began the journey of launching Stella — a vision nearly six years in the making that finally came to life in early March at the former Cafe Citti on Highway 12.
“We really wanted to explore Italian cuisine, and Stella just gives us the opportunity to do a lot more,” said Weiswasser. Glen Ellen Star’s chef de cuisine, Bryant Minuche, will run the Stella kitchen.
While pasta plays a starring role, Stella’s wood-fired grill steals the show. Orange flames leap several feet toward the hooded kitchen vent as bold cooks stoke the fire with bundles of wood. From the chef’s counter, you can feel tingles of heat with each flare.
Whole grilled dourade (sea bream fish), lamb ribs, mushrooms and soft Scamorza cheese get the kiss of the grill, imparting smoky flavor and gentle char unique to live fire cooking.
“We wanted to design an open kitchen so there is a show. The cooking should be on display because it connects our chefs and cooks with the dining room,” said Weiswasser.
The vibe
Stella’s modern dining room features warm lighting, long rows of banquette seating and smaller bistro tables along the walls. The indoor-outdoor style enclosed patio is a more casual option.
The wine list is beautifully curated, featuring mostly small-production wineries in Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino counties. Low-alcohol spritzes are a favorite, like the white Negroni ($17) with vermouth, sherry and grapefruit; or the smoked strawberry margarita ($16) made with “coal-kissed” strawberry puree.
Lunch is expected to debut in mid-May. Stella also sells fresh, uncooked pasta and sauces for a quick meal at home.
“The pasta cooks in 3 minutes and 45 seconds, timed exactly to Dean Martin’s ‘That’s Amore,’” said Weiswasser.
With a clear focus, excellent service and dishes with broad appeal, Stella’s star is already rising in Sonoma Valley.
Best bets
SF halibut crudo ($24): Thin slices of this raw flatfish soak up the sweet strawberry “aqua pazza,” a featherlight dressing I licked from the plate.
Scamorza impiccato ($18): The smoky flavor of this melted mozzarella-style cheese is delicious with drizzles of smoked honey on grilled sourdough. The presentation of the toast on a greasy piece of paper left us cold, because this tasty dish deserves better.
Mozzarella bar ($25-$36): Yes, it’s as delightful as you might expect, though it’s not a bar but more of a list. Stick to burrata — cream-filled mozzarella imported from Puglia. Standouts include the Burrata and Walnut ($28) with walnuts cooked in brown butter and a drizzle of 12-year-old balsamic vinegar; and the Burrata and Prosciutto di Parma ($29) with a ribbon of salty prosciutto atop creamy burrata. Fettunta (fancy garlic bread) served on the side is one of my favorite things on the menu, perfect for soaking up anything left in the bowl.
Lumache al pesto ($29): You will be ruined for anything else after eating a plate of this snail-shaped pasta that’s cooked perfectly al dente, with seasonal spring pea pesto, mushrooms, breadcrumbs and edible violets. It’s almost too pretty to eat.
Tonnarelli cacio e pepe ($25): I’m extremely picky about this dish because of its deceptive simplicity. Made with pasta, pecorino cheese and pepper, it needs to be a bit creamy from the pasta, water and cheese, with a smack of fresh black pepper in your face. This version didn’t disappoint. The portion size is smaller than I’d expect but it makes up for it in flavor.
Duroc pork chop Milanese ($42): A thinly cut breaded and fried pork chop with a creamy Meyer lemon and caper sauce was a favorite of the table. After seeing this dish on the restaurant’s Instagram, it was a must-try. Enough for two.
Half Roasted Chicken ($34): Glen Ellen Star has always received my vote for excellent wood-fired chicken, and this grilled version was excellent. A perfect char on the breast, moist meat and simple pan sauce with Chinese XO sauce give it an umami boost.
Baked Gelaska ($16): A riff on baked Alaska, with sponge cake, raspberry sorbet and vanilla gelato topped with a swirl of torched marshmallow fluff. A dessert I won’t soon forget.
Stella is at 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com. Open daily for dinner.
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.