Romanesco: Is it broccoli? Is it cauliflower? Both?
Whatever its exact classification – and most experts agree it is a cousin of both broccoli and cauliflower, but a variety of neither – romanesco may be the most beautiful vegetable in the world. To be precise, it is a flower: Unharvested, it rises on tall stalks and opens into pale yellow blossoms. Its mesmerizing beauty is derived from fractals, identical repeating patterns, with the tiniest floret exactly the same as the largest and as the entire head itself. This mathematical precision is seen throughout nature in everything from snowflakes to seashells.
What this means to home cooks is that it is best to prepare this gorgeous vegetable in ways that highlight its appearance. Roast whole or separate the florets from the core and boil, braise or roast; they hold their shape well.
Romanesco is best from late fall to early spring, as its flavors sweeten and intensify in cold weather. Like broccoli, it has sweet, nutty and earthy flavors that shine in this easy, comforting pasta.
Roasted Romanesco Pasta with Celery, Green Olives and Feta
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1 head romanesco, individual florets separated
Olive oil
Kosher salt
2/3 cup celery vinaigrette (see below)
6 ounces gemelli or similarly shaped pasta
4 celery stalks, trimmed and cut into very thin diagonal slices
1/2 lemon
1 tbsp. capers, drained
3 ounces (3/4 cup) feta, crumbled
3/4 cup green olives, such as Picholine or Castelvetrano, pitted and halved
1 tablespoon freshly snipped chives
Heat the oven to 425 degrees. While the oven heats, make the celery vinaigrette (see below).
Put the romanesco florets on a small sheet pan, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and toss gently to coat each piece in the oil. Set on the middle rack of the oven and cook until the florets are slightly tender but not mushy, about 12-15 minutes. Remove from the heat, place in a large bowl, and cover with a towel.
While the romanesco roasts, cook the pasta in salted water according to package directions. Drain the pasta, add to the bowl of romanesco, and set aside.
Pour a little olive oil into a medium sauté pan, set over medium heat, add the thinly sliced celery, and sauté until it just begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Squeeze in the lemon juice, season with salt, and add to the bowl.
To finish the pasta, add the capers, feta, green olives and half the vinaigrette to the bowl and toss gently. Divide among individual soup plates or shallow bowls, spoon the remaining vinaigrette on top, and enjoy right away.
Celery Vinaigrette
Makes about 2/3 cup
1 small shallot, minced
2 inner celery stalks, finely diced
Kosher salt
1/2 tsp. celery seed
2 tbsp. lemon juice
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
5 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
Put the shallot and celery into a small bowl or pint jar, season with salt, and add the celery seed. Pour in the lemon juice and set aside for about 15 minutes.
To finish, stir in the mustard and olive oil. Taste and add more salt if necessary.