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First off, Chef Josh Silvers can’t escape his tasting menu. A casualty of his restaurant transformation last spring to a small plates menu, Silvers has brought it back to stay with four and seven courses ($50, $70). As ever, it’s at the chef’s whim and for the entire table.
Meanwhile, BiteClub did a taste through the new menu after Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies’ arrival, and the food has only improved. Davies (who a number of local chefs credit Mirepoix’s 2010 Michelin star to) has elevated the small plates lineup with Silvers to include a swoon-worthy 63-degree egg salad (imagine an egg cooked so delicately it turns to a sort of custard) with parsnip frisee, bacon and crispy pork ($11); Speck (a sort of ham) and smoked ricotta ravioli ($11); a roasted pork tenderloin and creipinette with red cabbage and creme fraiche ($14) or pan-roasted Liberty Duck with black barley, shiitakes, pear and port ($16).
The quick take: These meticulous small plates feature 2-star flavors at a 1-star price.
Monday through Saturday lunch, 11:30am to 2:30pm; dinner from 5pm daily. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 568-4002.