BiteClub

Oh Southern Comfort

Chas Langley isn’t one for formalities. Standing in the barebones kitchen of Honey Biscuits, he hollers, “Now, make sure you get the Styrofoam plate in that picture. That’s kind of my trademark.”

“Uh, why?” I snap back with crumbs of sweet pastry (what he calls Fat Rascalz) flying from my mouth as I focus the camera on a plate of fried chicken and rice (trying not get the Styrofoam). “It’s not exactly environmentally friendly.”

“No it’s not, but it makes the food taste better,” he says with a sidelong grin. It’s a look that straddles between totally serious and absolutely messing with me. In this situation, I do what comes naturally. Laugh hysterically and try not to choke on my sweet tea.

Better not to argue with Chas. Just sit and eat whatever he feels like serving you. And feel pretty lucky for the opportunity.

Though it’s been around for more than two years, Honey Biscuits has remained well under the radar for some unknown reason. Serving up serious southern soul food–fried chicken, okra, red beans & rice, sweet potato pie, beignets, jambalaya, creamy potato salad, their trademark biscuits, sweet, fruit-studded Rascalz pastries and, well, whatever Chas feels like cooking that day–Honey Biscuits is little more than a tiny storefront in Cotati’s Grapevine shopping center.

There’s one communal table, plastic utensils, and a CD player you have to control your dang self. And that’s about it, aside from Chas (and sometimes his mom) serving up plates of food from breakfast through dinner.

But lest you think this is some gnarly Crisco-fest, Chas is quick to point out that he is, after all, from Marin. Southern Marin, to be exact, and all the produce gets delivered fresh from Laguna Farms and keeps the grease to a minimum. The Rascalz, in fact, are only 2 points on Weight Watchers. It’s his California contribution.

Nice to know. But this ain’t the time to be calorie-counting.

Best bets: Let Chas make you up a plate. It’s more food than you’ll ever eat and includes one of their lush honey biscuits for just $8. Beignets are made fresh on Saturdays and Sundays. All food is cooked to order, so don’t be in a fired-up hurry, now. Oh, and since you asked, he gets most of his recipes from his mom, who is also from Marin. But they’ve got family in Louisiana. Close enough.

NOTE: HONEY BISCUITS CLOSED A WEEK AFTER THIS REVIEW. DANG.

Honey Biscuits, 7981 Old Redwood, #D Cotati, 707.795.9000

Editor’s Note: Travel, dining and wine tasting can be complicated right now. Use our inspirational ideas to plan ahead for your next outing, be it this week or next year. If you visit restaurants, wineries, and other businesses during the pandemic, remember to call ahead, make reservations, wear a mask and social distance.

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