One of my best friends, Joshua, loves a surreptitious hang at the Sonoma County Airport restaurant for a glass — or three — of overpriced mass-market wine, chicken wings and a heaping helping of local gossip. The roar of jets on the outdoor patio drowns out our cackling, and the people-watching is priceless. It’s kind of our thing.
Over the last two years, the former Tap & Pour Taproom has undergone a transformation and recently relaunched as Flying Ace Kitchen & Taproom. Located outside security, it’s open to anyone.
Feeling compelled to pass judgment on our former haunt, Joshua and I spent three hours on a warm Sunday afternoon kicking the tires of our revamped rendezvous spot. After a $68 bottle of juicy Kendall Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Rose (retail, $17), we passed our slightly tipsy judgment.
The vibe: The interior has been overhauled with dark wood, creating a wine cave vibe. Two 5-foot-tall plastic Kendall-Jackson wine bottles flank the doorway. Along a back wall, lighted letters spelling out “SONOMA” are embedded in faux vegetation — catnip for social media types looking to prove they’ve been to Wine Country. The once “rustic” outdoor patio has a shady pergola with two televisions, lounge seating and bar seating — a nice upgrade — with a view of the runway.
The owners: SSP America, specializing in airport-based dining, has taken the reins from longtime local ownership. The restaurant is modern and polished — aside from the 5-foot plastic wine bottles.
The food: Favorites included the spicy-sweet Korean Fried Chicken Wings ($21) with toasted peanuts; Griddled Pot Roast Sandwich ($21) with braised meat, melty Monterey Jack and caramelized onions, served with a side of jus; Cavatappi Mac & Cheese ($24) with creamy cheddar sauce and sweet sun-dried tomatoes. The giant ice cream sandwich cookie ($10) checked the dessert box.
The drinks: Wines are mainly grocery store brands from Sonoma and Napa counties, with retail prices under $20 (several under $15). They’re all fine barbecue wines, but selling an $18 bottle for $72 seems excessive even at an airport. I’d skip the specialty cocktails ($18.99) and keep it simple with a gin and tonic or vodka cranberry if you need liquid courage. There are four beers on tap, Pliny the Elder and STS Pils from Russian River, Seismic Tremor Lager and Parliament Kaleidoscope Hazy IPA.
The service: Our server, Maddee, is a holdover from the previous ownership and knows the new menu inside out. The staff is attentive, friendly and quick to fix any errors.
The ruling: Wafts of jet fuel and roaring planes with brunch mimosas and avocado toast aren’t for everyone, but we love feeling like tourists in Sonoma County. The food is well-made but unfussy, with power bowls and pancakes for breakfast, burgers and chicken strips for lunch, or steak frites for dinner. The prices are airport-level steep, but if you want a hot meal or a stiff drink before takeoff, it’s solid. Just be nice to the tourists — we can’t all live in paradise.
Flying Ace Kitchen, 2200 Aviation Blvd., Sonoma County Airport, sonomaflyingace.com. Open during regular flight hours.