Spring in Sonoma County embraces us with a swirl of evocative scents: delicate citrus flowers, strawberries warmed by the sun, wisteria, and freshly cut stalks of rhubarb, one of the season’s most delightful and often overlooked treasures.
Rhubarb’s tangy and tart notes blossom with a pinch of salt. Add sugar and other spring fruit — strawberries are its ideal partner — and you have unique sweet-and-sour flavors that are both bright and delicate. But a caution is in order: The leaves of rhubarb are beautiful but poisonous, due to high amounts of oxalic acid. Add them to bouquets if you like, but never, ever eat them, though they can be safely used in mulch and compost.
Strawberry-rhubarb pies and galettes are the most familiar ways to enjoy rhubarb, but there are myriad ways to savor it. Rhubarb-leek sauce is delightful with poultry; a sauce of rhubarb and Dijon mustard makes pan-fried sand dabs sing, and rhubarb-strawberry chutney enlivens Indian curries. Rhubarb salsa is outstanding with shrimp tacos, fish tacos, tortas, and Mexican soups and stews, including pozole.
One of the simplest ways to enjoy rhubarb is in a compote with the season’s first local strawberries, a lovely addition to the table for spring holiday feasts alongside glazed ham or roasted leg of lamb. Or, if you prefer a dessert, enjoy this compote over vanilla ice cream, flan, or as a topping for cheesecake. It’s also a lovely accompaniment to freshly baked scones or with fresh cheeses such as chèvre or ricotta.
Rhubarb-Strawberry Compote
Makes about 6 to 8 servings
1 pint ripe strawberries, stemmed and diced small
1 tablespoon plus 2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 pound (3 to 4 stalks) fresh rhubarb, peeled
3 tablespoons Campari, optional
Put the strawberries into a medium bowl and sprinkle the tablespoon of sugar over them. Toss gently and set aside.
Cut the rhubarb into 1/2-inch pieces, put them into a small saucepan, add 1/3 cup of the sugar, and set over low heat. Stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved and then continue to simmer until the rhubarb is tender but not mushy, about 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the strawberries and any juices they have released.
Taste and add more sugar, a tablespoon or so at a time, until the sweet-tart balance is where you want it. Simmer 4 minutes more, add the Campari if using, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool.
Enjoy warm or chilled.