Behold the cheese pull, social media darling and perennial muse to food stylists everywhere. Lately, it has taken on a near-theatrical life online, with slow-motion reels of molten mozzarella stretched to the limit, flirting with the laws of physics — and culinary decency. In Petaluma, Old Chicago Pizza has become one of Sonoma County’s most enthusiastic enablers of the #cheesepull form.
It’s not hard to see why. Start with a deep-dish pie layered with roughly two pounds of cheese, then bake it for 30 minutes or more until it bubbles and blisters into submission. Joanne Hansen, who owns the restaurant with Audrey Haglund, isn’t about to tinker with a tried-and-true recipe they inherited from the original proprietor, Bill Berliner, known locally as “Chicago Bill.”
“We’re not skimpy on the ingredients,” Hansen said.
Old Chicago Pizza is among the county’s longest-running pizzerias — younger only than Mary’s Pizza Shack, founded in 1959, and Petaluma’s Pinky’s Pizza, which opened a year later. When he founded the restaurant in 1978, Berliner brought his version of deep-dish west, introducing locals to the thick flaky crust, straightforward tomato sauce and generous layer of mozzarella that define the Windy City’s signature pie.
Not much has changed in nearly 50 years. Inside the historic Lan Mart Building, generations of Petalumans have sat beneath the same glass chandelier, along the same exposed brick walls and at the same slightly sticky wooden tables, eating the pizzas they grew up with.
The heaviest pizza ever made here, Hansen said, tipped the scales at 8 pounds, though most large pies land in the 4- to 5-pound range before toppings. Add 2 pounds of cheese, and you’ve got something that weighs about as much as a newborn. Serving yourself isn’t advised — the pizzas are heavy and arrive piping hot — and staff will happily step in, offering both a hand and a front-row seat to that gravity-defying pull.
“It takes a certain amount of practice to serve it,” Hansen said.
There’s an art to eating it, too. Resist the rookie mistake of diving straight into those golden, bubbling pockets of cheese. A little patience goes a long way — your mouth will thank you later.
The menu
Pizza, pizza and more pizza. Deep-dish crust is the signature, but the double crust — two layers of crust surrounded by cheese and sauce — is also a favorite. Loading a deep dish with too many toppings isn’t recommended; things can quickly become overwhelming. Thin, extra-thin and gluten-free crusts are also available, along with garlic bread, simple salads, warm cookies and mini cheesecakes.
Most ordered
Pepperoni deep dish.
Fun fact
The 150-year-old building has seen its share of lives. According to local lore, it once operated as a brothel, a saloon and a hotel. Its twists and turns — with businesses tucked behind dozens of doors — invite curiosity. Whether it’s haunted is up for debate, though few dismiss the possibility outright.
The backstory
Berliner, brother of Andy Berliner, the co-founder of Amy’s Kitchen, set out to create a West Coast counterpart to Chicago destinations like Gino’s East, Giordano’s and Pizzeria Uno. He developed his own crust recipe — still a closely guarded secret — and built a loyal following. After Berliner died in 2009, Joanne Hansen’s husband, Michael, and longtime employee Audrey Haglund took over. When Michael Hansen died in 2016, Joanne Hansen stepped in, continuing the tradition.
The price
A medium deep dish (six slices) with cheese is $29.50; a large is $38; a small is $22.40; and a mini is $8. Additional toppings cost extra. A medium double-crust pizza with cheese is $35 and includes two toppings.
The spot
41 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma; 707-763-3897; oldchgo.com. A second location at 1390 N. McDowell Blvd., Suite H, offers delivery and pickup.