Bohème Wines, an Unassuming Gem in Occidental, Offers Free Tastings

The winery’s artisan Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines evoke the west county region’s chilly coastal vineyard sites.


Named for the Bohemian Highway that twists and turns its way through Sonoma’s majestic Northern Coast Range of redwoods, Bohème Wines is an unexpected find in laid-back downtown Occidental. The winery specializes in fresh and focused Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, inspired by cool-climate Sonoma Coast vineyard sites.

The story

Kurt Beitler founded Bohème Wines in 2004, but his winemaking origin story begins decades earlier. As the grandson of Caymus Vineyards founder Charlie Wagner and the nephew of co-founder Chuck Wagner, Beitler spent his early years among the vines in Napa. Although his family moved to Oregon when Beitler was still a child, the vines — and his uncle Chuck — would eventually call him back to the North Coast.

Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Wines. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)
Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Wines, in a foggy coastal vineyard. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

Beitler spent summers as a preteen working on the Caymus bottling line and in 1999, Wagner encouraged his nephew to pursue a career in winemaking. Beitler started in the vineyards, learning the intricacies of winegrowing, and found that he loved working outdoors and tending the vines. Still, he wasn’t a big wine drinker in those early days; it took a few special wines from the Sonoma Coast — including William Selyem’s Summa Vineyard Pinot Noir and Littorai wines from the late ’90s — to light the spark of inspiration.

In 2004, Beitler founded his own winery focused on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from four Sonoma Coast vineyards, including English Hill, Stuller, Taylor Ridge and Occidental Hills. He makes just 2,500 cases per year.

At English Hill Vineyard by the Sonoma Coast. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)
At English Hill Vineyard by the Sonoma Coast. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)
The Bohème Wines tasting room in Occidental. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)
The Bohème Wines tasting room in Occidental. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

The vibe

Bohème’s tasting room is set in a small storefront on Occidental’s Main Street, outfitted with a few tables and a leather sofa, plus a casual stand-up tasting bar. Stunning large-scale photos of Bohème’s fog-shrouded vineyards adorn the walls, hinting at hidden landscapes just up the road from the tasting room. When he’s not out in the vineyards, the affable Beitler can often be found pouring wines for guests.

On the palate

Though Beitler enjoyed bolder wines in his younger days — he grew up on Caymus, after all — he makes his own Pinot and Chardonnay in a more delicate and reserved style. Alcohol levels are kept on the modest side and the wines are fermented until no residual sugar remains.

A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines English Hill Vineyard Chardonnay. (Bohème Wines)
A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines English Hill Vineyard Chardonnay. (Bohème Wines)
A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines Stuller Vineyard Pinot Noir. (Bohème Wines)
A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines Stuller Vineyard Pinot Noir. (Bohème Wines)

A standout for me is the 2021 English Hill West Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($49), with its ocean-inspired minerality and floral notes. The 2021 Taylor Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) is another beauty, with a delicate profile that taps you on the shoulder and whispers of juicy pomegranates. The 2021 Stuller Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) is Bohème’s darkest Pinot, combining black fruits, earthy notes and complex tannins.

It’s common these days for Sonoma and Napa wineries to charge $50 or more for tastings, but Bohème doesn’t charge a thing. Beitler said he appreciates that people want to come in and sample his wines, and he wouldn’t feel right asking them to pay for it. Besides, he said, “Occidental is just not that kind of place.”

Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Wines. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)
Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Winesin Occidental. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)
The Grove of Old Trees, an old-growth redwood grove with walking trails, near Occidental. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)
The Grove of Old Trees, an old-growth redwood grove with walking trails, near Occidental. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)

Beyond the bottle

Get a taste of the redwoods near Bohème with a hike at the Grove of Old Trees. This lovely old-growth Coast Redwood forest was set to be cut down in the 1990s before the LandPaths conservancy saved it from the saw. Now visitors can explore an easily accessible network of paths and trails in this privately owned grove.

3625 Main St., Occidental, 707-887-2287. Open from noon to 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. bohemewines.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.